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STANDARDIZED 
BARBERS* 
MANUAL 

Revised and Adopted by 
THE NATIONAL EDUCATIONAL COUNCIL 

of the 

ASSOCIATED MASTER BARBERS 
of AMERICA 




PRICE $5.00 



!• Co 



TTo, 



: is 



Copyright 1911 
by 

A. B. MOLER 
Revised Edition 1920 
Revised Edition 1924 
Revised Edition 1926 
Revised Edition 1927 
Revised Edition 1928 

REVISED JANUARY 1. 1928 

by 

THE NATIONAL EDUCATIONAL COUNCIL 

of the 

ASSOCIATED MASTER BARBERS 
OF AMERICA 



i! 



nAR2^7H©CU1068837 



THE BARBER PROFESSION 

LIVERY professional should know the history 
and the individuals who have been or are 
contributors to the advancement of his profes- 
sion, therefore the effort has been made to 
place before you in this Textbook all of the 
present day national leaders and the organiza- 
tions which they represent, and to the memory 
and honor of these men and the organized bar- 
ber interests of America who have made this 
edition possible this volume is dedicated. 

The fact that barbering is a profession ne- 
cessitates this Standardized Textbook, that the 
student may not only acquire a practical knowl- 
edge, but that he may learn the Theoretical, 
Ethical, Legal and Scientific principles or ele- 
ments of the profession in order to be skilled 
professional practitioners. 

The Kansas Supreme Court, in the 63rd 
Kansas 471, July 6, 1901, held that barbering is 
a professional service. Among other things 
the court said: ''Like the surgeon and dentist, 
when the barber moves he attracts to himself 
those having confidence in his ability, and the 
greater his professional skill the more difficult 
it is to alienate from him those to whom his 
services have given satisfaction." 



CONTENTS 

Page 
Pictorial History 

Prelude, Barbering 

Selection and Care of Tools 5 

Honing and Stropping 26 

Shaving 33 

Haircutting 60 

Sanitation 110 

Electricity 115 

Chemistry 118 

Anatomy 134 

Amplified Facial 156 

Facial Treatments 159 

Scalp Treatments 179 

Hair Dye 204 

Ethics and Salesmanship 219 

Business 225 

Definitions 242 




J. B. RIGGS 

Akron, Ohio 
President. Standardised Bar 
Schools Association 

Mr. Riggs has 27 years in the 
profession to his credit, 15 of 
which have been spent in the 
barber school business, as well 
as two years in the study of 
medicine. 

A. B. MOLER 

Chicago, Illinois 
Secretary -Treasurer, Standard- 
ized Barber Schools Association 

A. B. Moler bears the distinc- 
tion of being the founder of the 
first barber school in the world. 
His schools constantly keep 
abreast of the latest develop 
ments applicable to the profes- 
sion. 




Sponsors of 

Better Instruction 

for Barbers 




DR. EDGAR B. WILSON, D. C., Ph. C. 

The barber profession owes much to Dr. Wilson for 
the thorough knowledge of the human anatomy and 
the proper manipulation of the muscles and nervous 
system which he has been so instrumental in spread- 
ing throughout the profession. He is a Doctor of 
Chiropractic, thus possessing an anatomical under- 
standing that proved of inestimable value while as- 
sisting the National Educational Council in promot- 
ing its standardized barber school curriculum and 
program. 

Dr. Wilson is no stranger to the barber profession, 
as he served therein for 25 years before taking his 
place in the chiropractic field, and to him must be 
given the credit for the scientific material contained in 
this textbook. 



Origin of Standardized Barber Schools 

THE Associated Master Barbers of America, in convention assembled at 
Des Moines, Iowa, November, 1926, adopted a resolution creating a Na- ( 
tional Educational Council of three members, with instructions to investigate 
and determine the methods used by other professions in controlling their 
educational institutions. C. B. Hypes of Topeka, Kan., C. N. Good of Elgin, 
111., and F. H. Tramp of Memphis, Tenn., were elected as members of the 
Educational Council. The Council organized by selecting C. B. Hypes as 
Chairman, C. N. Good as Vice-Chairman, and F. H. Tramp as Secretary. 
This Council made its investigations and submitted its report to the Execu- 
tive Board on January 16, 1927, and the two foregoing pages contain the 
program proposed by the Council and approved by the Executive Board. 

The National Barber Schools Association, Inc., was formed in Cleveland. 
Ohio, September 18, 1922. J. B. Riggs of Akron. Ohio, is President, and A. B. 
Moler of Chicago, 111., is Secretary. This Association meets annually. 




Reproduction of Certificate Issued by National Educational Council 
to Standardized Barber Schools 



At a meeting of the National Barber Schools Association of America, 
held in the Stevens Hotel, Chicago, October 31 and November 1, 2 and 3. 
1927, 42 of the leading barber schools of the country signed the Council's 
contract making the standardized school program a reality. Other schools 
have since signed the contract until the number is well over half a hundred. 

For a student to receive a diploma signed and sealed by the National 
Educational Council it is necessary that he complete the full six-month 
course in a standardized barber school, and that he then work under an 
approved Master Barber as an apprentice for 18 months. These regulations 
are not for the purpose of penalizing or discouraging barber students but to 
assure them that they will receive adequate and proper instruction and train- 
ing to make them efficient and professional practitioners. Every student in 
a standardized barber school should insist upon the school complying with 
all of the Council requirements as they may affect his education. 




National 

Educational 

Council 

Associated Master Barbers 
of America 



c. B. HYPES 

Topeka, Kansas 
Chairman 

Mr. Hypes is an advanced thinker and an 
educational enthusiast, and is responsible 
for much of the program of the National 
Educational Council. He was elected chair- 
man of the Council at Des Moines in 1926. 





F. H. TRAMP 

Memphis, Tennessee 
Secretary 
Mr. Tramp was elected to the Educa- 
tional Council in 1926, was made secretary 
of the body, and was re-elected at the De- 
troit convention. 

C. N. GOOD 

Elgin, Illinois 
Vice-Chairman 
Mr. Good has always been a consistent 
advocate of higher education, was elected 
to the Educational Council at Des Moines 
in 1926, and re-elected at the Detroit cor 
vention in 1927. 



THE NATIONAL EDUCATIONAL COUNCIL 



OF 



The Associated Master Barbers of America 



AGREEMENT 



THIS AGREEMENT, made this . day of _ , 192 , between 

, owner and operator of a barber school or college, at 



County of , State of . _.., party of the first part, 

and The National Educational Council, of The Associated Master Barbers of America (Incorporated), of 440 South Dear- 
born St., Chicago, Cook County, Illinois, party of the second part. 

WITNESSETH, That the said , party of the first part, 

hereby covenants and agrees, that he will accept, establish, and enforce the Curriculum, Regulations and Supervision (a 
copy of which is hereto attached- and made a part of this agreement) of The National Educational Council, party of the 

second part, in his barber school or college for a period of ..year from date 

And the said The National Educational Council, party of the second part, in consideration of the prompt and faithful 

performance of this agreement by the said , party of the first part, 

agrees to furnish the said . , party of the first part, with 

a certificate of standardization for said school or college and to permit said school or college to be advertised as a Stand- 
ardized school or college by and with the consent of TheNational Educational Council, party of the second part, dur 
ing the life of this agreement. 

The second party further agrees to, in every way consistent, to aid and co-operate with said first party in the 
conduct and operation of a standardized barber school or college as is herein defined and agreed upon. 

This agreement shall be binding upon the successors, heirs, executors and assigns of the parties hereto 

IN WITNESS WHEREOF The parties to these presents have hereunto set their hands and seals, the day and 
year first above written 

First Party 

THE NATIONAL EDUCATIONAL COUNCIL. 

Second Party 

By , Chairman. 

, Vice Chairman 

Attest , Secretary 




THE NATIONAL EDUCATIONAL COUNCIL 
The Associated Master Barbers of America 



CURRICULUM, REGULATIONS AND SUPERVISION OF 
STANDARDIZED BARBER SCHOOLS 



ENROLLMENT. 

Preliminary Requirements — Over 16 years of age; an eighth grade grammar school education or its equivalent as 
determined by the Council by an examination; good moral character and temperate habits. 

Matriculation — Tuition fee of not less than $150, payable in advance, or at least $50 in advance and the bal- 
ance in weekly or monthly installments over a period of six months or less. 

COURSE. 

Time — Two years is required to complete the course. The first six months must be in the school or college proper 
as a student apprentice. After six months as a student apprentice, and on making satisfactory grades the 6tudent ap- 
prentice shall be advanced to the grade of Junior apprentice and farmed out to an approved Master Barber for practice 
and to earn wages for six months, when he shall be advanced to the grade of apprentice on a satisfactory showing of 
skill and knowledge, and continue to practice and earn wages under an approved Master Barber for one year 

After one year of study and practice as an apprentice under an approved Master Barber, he shall take a final exam- 
ination by the Council and if passing grades are made he shall have issued to him a DIPLOMA of graduation and the 
degree of BARBER. Said diploma shall designate the school or college with the proper official signatures and seal of the 
college and the signatures and seal of THE NATIONAL EDUCATIONAL COUNCIL. 

Subjects — Barbering; Practical; Theoretical; Business and Ethics; Scientific: and Treatments 

Practical; Shaving; Hair Cutting; Shampooing; and Massage. 

Theoretical; Personality; Art; and History. 

Business and Ethics; Bookkeeping; Management. 

Scientific: Anatomy; Bacteriology; Elementary Chemistry 

Treatments; Dead Hairs; Acnae; Sycosis; Ringworm; Alopecia; Seborroeh; Eczema; Syphilis; and Sorisis 

Sub-Subject, Shaving; Tools; Kinds; Materials; and Technic. 

Hair Cutting; Tools; Kinds; Materials; and Technic. 

Shampooing: Tools; Kinds; Materials, and Technic 

Massage: Tools; Kinds; Materials; and Technic. 

Personality: Education; Sociability; Confidence; Movements; and Touch 

Art: Contour; Outline; Mental Photography; and Hair Gravitation 

History: Ancient, Medieval and Modern History of Barbering. 

Supervision — The National Educational Council shall supervise all Standardized schools and colleges, prescribe the 
curriculum, texts and courses of study, sanitary rules and regulations, hold and pass on all examinations for advance- 
ment or graduation, furnish or prescribe application blanks for Master Barber wishing permits to work apprentices and 
pass on said applications and prescribe such other regulations as supervision may from time to time require. 

Supervision Fees — Preliminary examination for entrance . $3.00 

Junior apprentice examination and certificate _ _ 1.00 

Apprentice examination and certificate 1-00 

Barber degree examination and Diploma . 20.00 

Inspection — The National Educational Council shall, by its supervisor, or individually, inspect all standardized 
schools and colleges and order necessary changes in equipment, conduct or management to meet the Council's require- 
ments, and shall withdraw its supervision and standardization from any institution failing to comply with its require 
■ments. 

INSTRLCTORS. 
Qualifications — All instructors must be of good moral character and temperate habits; free from contagious or 
infectious diseases, and of clean personal habits and life. 

All instructors will have six months time, from the date of standardization, to fully equip themselves as standard- 
ized instructors; if not already equipped, by taking a course in an approved training school or college of higher instruc- 
ion 

Classification — Instructors shall be classified into three classes viz, Primary Intermediate, and Advanced 

Sub-Class — Primary: Instruction in practical barbering. 

Intermediate: Instruction in theoretical and business and ethics of barbering 

Advanced: Instruction in scientific and treatments of barbering 

Primary instructors must -also be qualified in the intermediate and advanced class and Intermediate instructors 
must also be qualified in the primary and advanced, altho they may teach in only one classification, and all must wear 
the regulation uniform when on duty 

INSTRUCTION, 1,000 Hours 

Classification— Primary 750 hours; 5 hours per day for 150 days within a period of not less than six months. Prac- 
tice and Demonstrations. 

Intermediate: 100 hours; 2-3 hour per day for 150 days within a period of not less than six months Recitations 
and Lectures. 

Advanced: 150 hours; 1 hour per day for 150 days within a period of not less than six months Recitations, Lec- 
tures, Demonstrations and Laboratory clinics. 

REGULATIONS 

No. 1— All standardized barber schools may divide the six months student-apprentice course into four semes- 
ters of six weeks each. Students leaving school after one semester may return at any time to complete the full 
course and receive credit for each semester completed; or they may transfer from a standardized school in one 
city to another city and receive credit for semesters completed, but switching from one standardized school to another 
in the same city will not be allowed without the consent of the supervisor. 

No. 2— Standardized schools may establish a preliminary course of instruction for students who have not fin- 
ished the eighth grade grammar school requirement, to enable them to make the preliminary examination to be con- 
ducted by the Council's Supervisor 



The Associated Master Barbers of America 

FOLLOWING a growing sentiment among leaders in the profession for 
the organization of a national association, the first convention, which 
was practically a meeting for organizing purposes, was held at the Sherman 
Hotel in Chicago, November 17, 18 and 19, 1924. Enthusiasm was the key- 
note of this convention, and it was plain to be seen that the future of the 
organization was assured. Immediately after the Chicago convention the 
work of issuing charters began, and by the time of the Kansas City meeting, 
a year later, the Associated Master Barbers of America had 2,800 members 
on its rolls. 

The 1926 convention was held in Des Moines, Iowa, and that of 1927 at 
Detroit, Mich. At Detroit the delegates present represented a membership 
of nearly 10,000, evidence of the recognition by the shop owners of the United 
States of the need for such a national association and of their increasing 
support of the organization and the principles upon which it functions. 

These principles are defined in the preamble to the Constitution and By- 
Laws of the Associated Master Barbers of America. We give them here, 
that the student may become aware of the high ideals which permeate every 
action of the members thereof: 

The purpose of organizing nationally is to get that strength and intelligent 
unity necessary to accomplish nation-wide needs and reforms. These are 
in part as follows : 

First, to elevate craft ideals. That is to say, to implant in all craft 
workers a higher appreciation of themselves and their work. 

Second, to increase the phases of shop service (widen the field of service) 
to promote uniform shop practices and to establish uniform fees for such 
services throughout the entire country. 

Third, to promote neighborly tolerance among all branches of chiroton- 
sory. That is, to establish' a working co-operation of barbers, hairdressers 
and cosmeticians, especially for the purpose of educating the public to a 
wider appreciation and patronage and to establish uniform, just, noncon- 
flicting laws governing the business. 

Fourth, to assist toward technical craft education to an extent sufficient 
to compel, or at least to command and hold public confidence. 

Fifth, to propagandize the newspaper press of the country through recog- 
nized journalistic channels, that is, to inject into the literary current of the 
day a stream of reading matter in behalf of modern chirotonsory. 

Sixth, to sustain a line of scientific and economic investigations up to the 
limits of current research in behalf of the craft. 

Seventh, to unify the craft by means of full nation-wide mutual infor- 
mation and dependable craft news. 

Eighth, to declare and make clear that this program is not a program 
of selfish and commercial interests, but a legitimate cog in the wheel of 
better things. 

Final Declaration 

In the furtherance of these ends The Associated Master Barbers of 
America declares its determination and its eagerness to co-operate honestly 
and fairly with all creeds, all organizations, and all crafts connected directly 
or indirectly with the barbers' work. 




President, Secretary 
and Treasurer 



•C>M<>- 



Associated Master Barbers 
of America 



OTTO EWERT 

Chicago, Illinois 
General President 
At Springfield, 111., in 1923, Mr. Ewert 
was elected temporary president to form 
the National Association. At the first na- 
tional convention in Chicago in November, 
1924, he was elected General President, and 
has been re-elected at each convention 





LOUIS E. McILVAIN 

Chicago, Illinois 
General Secretary and Organiser 
At the first national convention, held in 
Chicago in November, 1924, Mr. Mcllvain 
was elected General Organizer, and at the 
1925 convention, held in Kansas City, he 
was elected General Secretary and Organ- 
izer. He continues to hold these offices. 

JAMES H. MANTLE 

Bloomington, Illinois 
General Treasurer 
Mr. Mantle became affiliated with the As- 
sociated Master Barbers of America in No- 
vember, 1924. He was elected treasurer of 
the national organization at that time, and 
each succeeding convention has seen him 
returned to office. 




HENRY WEVER 

Chicago, Illinois 

Henry Wever was born August 29, 
1849, at Liberty, Ohio. In his early 
youth the profession of barbering 
claimed his attention, but later years 
saw him turn to other activities, which 
included teaching, writing, selling in 
the commercial field, and editorial 
work. In 1921 he became editor of 
The Reflector, which was then the name 
of The Master Barber Magazine and 
Beauty Culturist, and in the years fol- 
lowing his contributions to the profes- 
sion by reason of a tremendous amount 
of research work, inspired and backed 
by several years spent in the study of 
medicine, have been of invaluable aid 
to the profession in the raising of its 
standards. His writings and teachings 
have brought out a mass of informative 
data which has in this way been trans- 
lated into shape for practical use by 
barbers everywhere, and the inspira- 
tion of his teachings has been a beacon 
light marking the shining goal toward 
which the face of modern barbering is 
turned. 



Their Editorial Pens Have Done Much for the Barber Profession 



JULE GORDON 
Des Moines, Iowa 

Jule Gordon was born in Chicago, 
111., September 25, 1900, and was edu- 
cated at McKinley high school, Chi- 
cago, and Northwestern university, 
Evanston, 111. Mr. Gordon is editor of 
The Square Deal, a magazine devoted 
to the barbers and beauty operators of 
America, published by the Square Deal 
Publishing Company of Des Moines, 
Iowa. This publication has a national 
circulation and has done much to pave 
the way for nation-wide organization, 
and Mr. Gordon and his editorials have 
done much to bring to the barbers of 
America a realization that a better and 
higher education is needed in order to 
secure and hold the confidence of an 
enlightened public. The barber profes- 
sion owes much to Mr. Gordon for his 
untiring efforts and intelligent, un- 
selfish devotion to their cause. 




General Vice-Presidents 

Associated Master Barbers of America 



T. C. MacDUFFEE 

Des Moines, Iowa 
First Vice-President 

Mr. MacDuffee joined the Associated 
Master Barbers of America on January 
21, 1926, and was elected as First Vice- 
President at Detroit in 1927. 



ALDEN WARMELIN 

Chicago, Illinois 
Second Vice-President 

Mr. Warmelin attended the 1924 
convention in Chicago, where he was 
elected Second Vice-President, and he 
has continued to hold that office. 




ANTHONY PANASCI 

Buffalo, N. Y. 
Third Vice-President 

Mr. Panasci was elected Third Vice- 
President at the second annual conven- 
tion at Kansas City in 1925, and has 
been re-elected since. 



C. A. BELMONT 

Sacramento, California 
Fourth Vice-President 

Mr. Belmont was made Fourth Vice- 
President of the organization at Kansas 
City in 1925, and has been returned to 
office each year. 




Educational 
Committee 



.< u<>. 



National Beauty and 

Barber Supply Dealers' 

Association 



W. L. SCOTT 

Peoria, Illinois 
Chairman 

A. H. SCHROEDER 

Fort Wayne, Indiana 



C. A. GREEN 

Lincoln, Nebraska 



The National Beauty and Barber Sup- 
ply Dealers' Association has always 
formed a harmonious unit in the cycle 
which constantly strives to educate the 
profession as a whole and elevate its 
status in the world of affairs. 



To the Student Barber 

'"PHE ultimate success of our great cause, and the ideals for which it stands, depends 
on three great qualities, namely, the quality of Confidence, the quality of Courage, 
and the result of the union of these two qualities, which is Harmony. Each depends 
on the other, and all three form the perfect triad. They should be acquired by all who 
wish to succeed in their chosen line of endeavor, and strict adherence to these principles 
will bring success to him who makes their practice part of his daily conduct. Knowing 
this, we unhesitatingly recommend them to the students with the hope that they will 
become his guiding spirit all through life. 

Confidence comes from a complete belief in the justice and virtues of the line of 
endeavor you are choosing for yourself. It cannot be acquired in ignorance, for ignor- 
ance never bred confidence. Rather, it is the result of knowledge, and this essential 
knowledge of your chosen profession must come from those who have preceded you, 
and who have, by hard-won experience, gathered that wisdom, so it is the better policy 
to heed their teachings and gain profit thereby. Knowledge is gained by exchange of 
thought, and it is only through organization that this can be accomplished. Organiza- 
tion means a method whereby the recipient of that knowledge gains the most from it, 
to an immeasurably greater extent than could he, as an individual, working alone. 

Courage is the result of confidence, and confidence in yourself and your ability will 
supply the courage which will inspire you, and which will never fail. 

Confidence is the very foundation of life itself. A man's strength to work and to 
enjoy his daily existence depends on confidence. A man must have confidence in his 
home, confidence in his friends and confidence in his business. Applied to business, it 
is this confidence that supplies the courage to face his every problem with the strength 
and bearing of a conqueror. The man with confidence is the winner in the great game 
of life. It is the breath of life of courage, its inspiration, the reason for its very 
existence. 

If you have confidence and courage you are in harmony with life itself. Harmony 
means a willingness to submerge self and let common welfare rule supreme. Harmony 
comes when self is forgotten and the common cause for forward movement becomes 
the only motive. Harmony means the one accord of each, and all taken together. It is 
the music of life, the satisfaction of soul which characterizes freedom from all discord 
and a united seeing of the common welfare. It is at last the recognition and the appre- 
ciation of harmony which completes the circle and governs the working conditions in 
our great profession. 

It is the due recognition of these cardinal principles which supplies the need for and 
the existence of the Associated Master Barbers of America. Our organization is built on 
the foundation-stones of Confidence, Courage and Harmony, and our every effort is to 
perpetuate in practice the benefits to be derived from their observance. These principles 
lie behind the issuance of this Manual, so that the ambitious student may have placed in 
his hands the accumulated knowledge that comes from organization, that he may derive, 
in his status, the incalculable benefits that organization makes possible, and so assimilate 
in his daily duties the inspiring lessons contained in the three principles which are the 
constant guide of our organization. 

We wish to acknowledge the whole-hearted co-operation of the National Beauty and 
Barber Supply Dealers' Association in the educational work in which our association is 
engaged. On the opposite page we reproduce the pictures of the Educational Committee 
of that association. This committee has labored long and well in the work of education 
and uplifting of our profession, and is deserving of much praise and the fullest con- 
fidence for its efforts. 



History of State Barber Laws 

THE first state barber law enacted in the United States was passed in 
Minnesota in 1897, and since that time the following- states have passed 
statutes governing the profession : Illinois, Wisconsin, Kansas, Maryland, 
Michigan, South Dakota, California, Iowa, Missouri, North Dakota, Colo- 
rado, Oregon, Delaware, Utah, Connecticut and Washington. On the follow- 
ing pages are shown pictures of the members of various state boards as of 
January 1, 1928. 

The model license law, which is used as a basis for the formulation of 
beneficial legislation in the various states of the Union, was drafted and 
approved at a joint session of the general executive boards of the Associated 
Master Barbers of America and the Journeymen Barbers' International 
Union of America, together with representatives of the National Association 
of Barber and Beauty Culture Schools, in Chicago, Illinois, on Julv 19 and 
20, 1926. 

The Minnesota law, as passed, provided for perpetual licenses. The stat- 
ute was amended in 1921 and again in 1927. 

The Wisconsin law was passed in 1903. 

The Kansas law was enacted in 1913 and was amended in 1927. 

Michigan's first barber law was passed in 1899, and superseded by a new 
one in 1927. 

The South Dakota law was passed in 1927. 

The California law, containing all the best features of the model bill, was 
passed in 1927. 

The Iowa law, passed in 1927, contains many features of the model bill. 

The Missouri law dates back to 1899. 

The North Dakota law, enacted in 1927, contains many of the more im- 
portant features of the model bill. 

The Colorado law was enacted in 1909. 

The Oregon law was first passed in 1899, amended in 1903, 1905 and 1925. 
This law was repealed and a model law enacted in 1927. 

The enactment of legislation looking to the betterment of the barbering 
profession and the members thereof is the result of organized effort along 
these lines, and of the combining of many ideas of many supporters of a belief 
that barbers should and could have these things. That their faith was sound 
and the labor fruitful may be readily seen today, when from the working of 
this legislation is apparent the many benefits contained in the various state 
laws. 



IT PAYS TO LOOK WELL" 



MINNESOTA STATE BARBER BOARD 




P. H. TlMMINS 

Minneapolis 



J. P. McGill 
St. Paul 



Walter Dunlop 
Duluth 



ILLINOIS STATE BARBER BOARD 




Frank J. Bishop 
Chicago 



J. H. Hoyt 
Peoria 



James H. Mantle 
Bloomington 



WISCONSIN STATE BARBER BOARD 




Chas. E. Mullen 
Madison 



Wm. L. Smith 
Milwaukee 



John W. Hacker 
Kenosha 



KANSAS STATE BARBER BOARD 




H. P. Miller 
Topeka 



Chas. H. Look 
Concordia 



W. M. Roberts 
Manhattan 



MARYLAND 



MICHIGAN 





Louis Reuling 
Baltimore 



( iLenn Brown 
Belding 



SOUTH DAKOTA STATE BARBER BOARD 




Chas. P. Bowell 

Aberdeen 



Judson Miller 
Sioux Falls 



F. C. Foster 

Rapid City 



CALIFORNIA STATE BARBER BOARD 




J. T. Haywood 
San Francisco 



C. E. Rynearson 
Marysville 



C. L. Butts 
Los Angeles 



IOWA STATE BARBER BOARD 





John T. McGruder 
Des Moines 



Frank O. Moffitt 
Sioux City 



MISSOURI STATE BARBER BOARD 




John H. Parshall 
Kansas City 



George A. Luce 
Jefferson City 



Wm. F. Rebsamen 
St. Louis 



NORTH DAKOTA STATE BARBER BOARD 




Melvin T. Simley 
Finley 



Calvin P. Wick 
Fargo 



Fred K. Ode 
Bismarck 



COLORADO STATE BARBER BOARD 





Carl E. Bruhx 
Denver 



R. W. LlCHTENHELD 

Denver 



OREGON STATE BARBER BOARD 




Roy Neer 
Portland 



Ed. L. Johnson 
Oregon City 



C. D. Winston 
Corvallis 



PRELUDE 

Barbering 

Ancient, Medieval and Modern 

For much of the following article we are indebted to the F. IV. Fitch Co. 



HPHE word "barber" comes from the 
Latin word "barba," meaning beard. 
It may surprise you to know that the 
earliest records of barbers' show that 
they were the foremost men of their 
tribe. They were the medicine men 
and the priests. This was because 
primitive man was very superstitious 
and the early tribes believed that every 
individual was inhabited by good and 
bad spirits which entered the body 
through the hairs on the head. The 
bad spirits could be driven out only 
by cutting the hair, and so various 
fashions of hair cutting were prac- 
ticed by the different tribes and this 
made the barber the most important 
man in the community. In fact, the 
barbers in these tribal days arranged 
all marriages and baptized all children. 
They were the chief figures in the 
religious ceremonies. During these 
ceremonies, the hair was allowed to 
hang loosely over the shoulders so 
that the evil spirits could come out. 
After the dancing, the long hair was 
cut in the prevailing fashion by the 
barbers and combed back tightly so 
that the evil spirits could not get in 
or the good spirits get out. 

This rule by barbers was a common 
thing in ancient Asia. In fact, wher- 
ever there were legends and supersti- 
tions about the hair, the barbers flour- 
ished. To this day in India, the ven- 
eration of the hair continues and 
those who cut and dress the hair are 
important characters. 

SHAVED HEADS AND 
BEARDS 

In Egypt, many centuries before 
Christ, barbers were prosperous and 
highly respected. The ancient monu- 
ments and papyrus show that the 
Egyptians shaved their beards and 



their heads. The Egyptian priests 
even went so far as to shave the 
entire body every third day. At this 
time the barbers carried their tools 
in open-mouthed baskets and their 
razors were shaped like small hatchets 
and had curved handles. The Bible 
tells us that when Joseph was sum- 
moned to appear before Pharaoh, a 
barber was sent for to shave Joseph, 
so that Pharaoh's sight would not 
be offended by a dirty face. 

In Greece, barbers came into prom- 
inence as early as the fifth century, 
B. C. These wise men of Athens 
rivalled each other in the excellence 
of their beards. Beard trimming be- 
came an art and barbers became lead- 
ing citizens. Their shops were fre- 
quented by statesmen, poets and philo- 
sophers, who came there to have their 
hair cut or their beards trimmed or 
curled and scented with costly essences. 
And, incidentally, they came to discuss 
the news of the day, because the bar- 
ber shops of ancient Greece were the 
headquarters for social, political, and 
sporting news. The importance of 
the tonsorial art in Greece may be 
gathered from the fact that a certain 
prominent Greek was defeated for 
office because his opponent had a more 
neatly trimmed beard. 

In the third century, B. C., the 
Macedonians under Alexander the 
Great began their conquest of Asia 
and lost several battles to the Per- 
sians who grabbed the Macedonians 
by their beards, pulled them to the 
ground and speared them. This re- 
sulted in a general order by Alexander 
that all soldiers be clean-shaven. The 
example of the soldiers was followed 
by the civilians and beards lost their 
vogue. 

Barbers were unknown in Rome 
until 296 B. C., when Ticinius Mena 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



came to Rome from Sicily and intro- 
duced shaving. Shaving soon became 
the fashion and the barber shop be- 
came the gathering place for the Ro- 
man dandies. No people were better 
patrons of the barbers than the 
Romans. They often devoted several 
hours each day to tonsorial opera- 
tions, which included shaving, hair 
cutting, hairdressing, massaging, mani- 
curing and the application of rare 
ointments and cosmetics of unknown 
formulas. The great ladies of Rome 
always had a hairdresses among their 
slaves and the rich nobles had private 
tonsors, as they were then called. Bar- 
bers were so highly prized that a 
statue was erected to the memory of 
the first barber of Rome. 

When Hadrian became emperor, 
beards became the fashion again — and 
for a very good reason. Hadrian 
had a face covered with warts and 
scars. He allowed his beard to grow 
to cover these blemishes. The people 
of Rome imitated the emperor and 
grew beards whether they needed them 
or not. 

The fashion changed again to clean- 
shaven faces. We know that Caesar 
was clean-shaven. As we will see 
repeated in history many times, the 
leaders of the state were the leaders 
of fashion and the people were always 
ready to follow the prevailing styles. 

There are many passages in the 
Bible referring to the barber profes- 
sion. Moses commanded that all who 
recovered from leprosy should be 
shaved. This was done as a health 
precaution, because throughout history 
the Jews have honored the beard as a 
badge of manhood. To this day, the 
orthodox Jews have little respect for 
clean shaven men. During periods of 
mourning, the ancient Jews allowed 
their beards to go untrimmed, but 
ordinarily their beards were trimmed 
regularly. 

The prophet Ezekiel refers to an 
ancient custom in these words : "Take 
thou a barber's razor and cause it to 
pass upon thy head and upon thy 
beard." The razors of those days 
were made of flint and oyster shells. 



ASSISTANTS TO CLERGY 

During the first centuries of the 
Christian era, the barbers of Europe 
practiced their profession wherever it 
was the custom to shave the face and 
trim the beard. Charlemagne made 
long, flowing hair the fashion, but 
each new conqueror changed the fash- 
ion according to his whim and per- 
sonal needs. During the first ten 
centuries after Christ, the great ma- 
jority of the people and even the no- 
bles were uneducated and could neither 
read nor write. The most learned 
people of the times were the monks 
and priests who became the physi- 
cians of the dark ages. There were 
no professional surgeons at that time. 
Most of the diseases which are easily 
curable now, were fatal then. "Blood- 
letting" was the popular method of 
curing all ills. This was first done 
by the clergy who enlisted the barbers 
as their assistants. This was the first 
step in the upward progress of the 
barber profession. 

Barbers continued to act as assist- 
ants to the physician-clergy until the 
12th century. At the council of Tours 
in 1163, the clergy were forbidden to 
draw blood or to act as physicians 
and surgeons on the ground that it 
was sacrilegious for ministers of God 
to draw blood from the human body. 
The barbers took up the duties re- 
linquished by the .clergy and the era 
of barber-surgeons began. The con- 
nection between barbery and surgery 
continued for more than six centuries ■ 
and the barber profession reached its 
pinnacle during this time. 

FIRST BARBER ORGANIZA- 
TION 

The earliest known organization of 
barbers was formed in 1096 in France 
when William, archbishop of Rouen, 
prohibited the wearing of a beard. 
The barber-surgeon, or chirurgeons, 
began to thrive all over Europe. They 
were the doctors of the times and the 
royalty as well as the common people 
came to the barbers to have their ills 
treated as well as for shaving and 
haircutting. The physicians proper 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



were in continual conflict with the 
barber-surgeons. The barbers em- 
braced dentistry as well as surgery 
and this brought down on them the 
enmity of the dentists of the times. A 
long strife, whose settlement required 
the interference of kings and councils, 
followed between the barbers and the 
regular surgeon-dentists. But the bar- 
bers retained the privilege of practic- 
ing dentistry and surgery for several 
centuries. 



FOUNDED SCHOOL OF 
SURGERY 

In the middle of the 13th century, 
the barber companies of Paris, known 
as the Brotherhoods of St. Cosmos 
and St. Domain, founded the first 
school ever known for the systematic 
instruction of barbers in the practice 
of surgery. This school was later 
enlarged and became the model for 
schools of surgery during the middle 
ages. Many of the foremost surgeons 
of the times were students of the 
School of St. Cosmos and St. Domain. 
The establishment o? this school was 
one of the greatest contributions ever 
made toward the progress of hu- 
manity. 

The oldest barber organization in 
the world, still known in London as 
the "Worshipful Company of Bar- 
bers," was established in 1308. Rich- 
ard le Barbour, as the Master of the 
Barbers, was given supervision over 
the whole of his trade in London. 
Once a month he had to go the rounds 
and rebuke any barbers whom he 
found acting disgracefully or entering 
on other trades less reputable. The 
master of a city company not only 
had this power, but he successfully 
prevented unauthorized persons from 
practicing the barber profession. The 
Barbers Guild of the 14th Century 
was undoubtedly more powerful than 
any of the modern unions. The Guilds 
were sanctioned by the king and coun- 
cil and so they could enforce their 
regulations. It was not uncommon 
for violators of Guild regulations to 
suffer prison terms for their misde- 
meanors. 



BARBERS AS SURGEONS 

Up to the year 1416, the barbers 
were not interfered with in the prac- 
tice of surgery and dentistry. But it 
was soon evident that they were at- 
tempting too much. It was impossible 
to expect ordinary human beings to 
competently practice surgery, dentistry 
and the various tonsorial operations. 
People began to complain that the 
barber-surgeons were making them 
sick instead of well. Many barber- 
surgeons resorted to quackery in order 
to cover up their ignorance of medi- 
cine and anatomy. These abuses came 
to the attention of the mayor and 
council of London, and in 1416 an or- 
dinance was passed forbidding barbers 
from taking under their care any sick 
person in danger of death or maiming, 
unless within three days after being 
called in, they presented the patient to 
one of the masters of the Barber- 
Surgeon's Guild. 

Until 1461 the barbers were the only 
persons practicing surgery. The prac- 
tice of surgery was still in its primi- 
tive stage, but new discoveries were 
being made regularly and the barbers 
found it impossible to keep up with the 
new discoveries and at the same time 
maintain their skill in dentistry and 
barbering. The surgeons began to 
forge to the front and became increas- 
ingly jealous of the privileges ac- 
corded the barbers. But for a long 
time they could do nothing to prevent 
the barbers from acting as surgeons. 

In 1450, the Guild of Surgeons was 
incorporated with the Barbers Com- 
pany by act of parliament. Barbers 
were restricted to bloodletting, tooth- 
drawing, cauterization and the tonsor- 
ial operations. However, the board 
of governors, regulating the opera- 
tions of the surgeons and barber-sur- 
geons, consisted of two surgeons and 
two barbers. Every time a surgeon 
was given a diploma entitling him to 
practice his profession, the diploma 
had to be signed by two barbers as 
well as two surgeons. 

The surgeons resented this, but the 
barbers were very much favored by 
the monarchs and preserved their priv- 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



ileges until the middle of the 18th 
century. Henry VIII, Charles II and 
Queen Anne presented the barber-sur- 
geons with valuable gifts and raised 
many of them; to high offices. Under 
a clause in the Act of Henry VIII, 
the Barber-surgeons were entitled to 
receive every year the bodies of four 
criminals who hod been executed. The 
dissections were performed four times 
a year in the Barber-Surgeons Hall 
which still stands in London. 

ORIGIN OF BARBER POLE 

The modern barber pole originated 
in the days when bloodletting was one 
of the principal dutiess of the barber. 
The two spiral ribbons painted around 
the pole represent the two long ban- 
dages, one twisted around the arm 
before bleeding and the other used to 
bind is afterward. Originally, when 
not in use, the pole with a bandage 
wound around it, so that both might 
be together when needed, was hung 
at the door as a sign. But later, for 
convenience, instead of hanging out 
the original pole, another one was 
painted in imitation of it and given a 
permanent place on the outside of the 
shop. This was the beginning of the 
modern barber pole. 

ALLIANCE DISSOLVED 

As the science of medicine, surgery 
and dentistry advanced, the barbers 
became less and less capable of per- 
forming the triple functions of barber- 
surgeon-dentist. The surgeons wished 
to be separated entirely from the bar- 
bers and they petitioned parliament to 
sever the ancient relationship of the 
barbers and surgeons and compel each 
profession to adhere strictly to its 
own provinces. A committee was ap- 
pointed by parliament to investigate 
the matter and the petition was fa- 
vorably reported to parliament. By 
an act of parliament, which received 
the sanction of the king, the alliance 
between the barbers and surgeons was 
dissolved in June, 1745. Two separate 
companies were formed and the prop- 
erty, formerly owned by the barbers 
and surgeons jointly, was divided 
among the two companies. 



PROFESSION DECLINES 

This marked the decline of the bar- 
ber profession. Similar action was 
taken in France under the reign of 
Louis XIV. Toward the end of the 
18th century the barbers of Europe 
had completely relinquished their right 
to perform any of the operations of 
surgery and dentistry, except in the 
small towns and out-of-the-way places 
where doctors and dentists were not 
obtainable. 

After the barbers were prohibited 
from practicing medicine, surgery and 
dentistry, they became mere mechan- 
ics and servants, subject to the whims 
of fashion. When wigs became the 
fashion during the 18th and part of 
the 19th century, barbers became wig- 
makers. Their profession had lost its 
ancient dignity and barbers had be- 
come laborers, instead of professional 
men. 

In England, America and all over 
the civilized world, the decline of the 
barber was a spectacle for all to see. 
Barber shops became hangouts, places 
where low characters assembled. 
Smutty stories, malicious scandal and 
gossip of all kinds characterized bar- 
ber shops until a few years ago. A 
barber shop was a place where men 
showed their lower instincts and where 
women dared not enter. 

AN UPWARD TREND 

Late in the nineteenth century there 
were several noteworthy events in the 
barber profession that gave it an up- 
ward trend, and the effects are still 
carrying onward and upward. How 
long it will be before the barber may 
be looked up to as a professional man, 
taking his place by the side of the 
dentist, chiropodist, chiropractor and 
other kindred professions, cannot be 
foretold, but it would seem both the 
public and the profession are ready 
for better things. 

In 1893 there was established by 
A. B. Moler in Chicago, a school for 
barbers, the first institution of its kind 
in the world, the success of which was 
apparent from its very start, for it 
stood for higher education in the 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



ranks, and the parent school was rap- 
idly followed by branches in nearly 
every principle city of the United 
States. 

In the beginning of schools, simply 
the practical work of shaving, hair- 
cutting, facial treatments, etc., was 
taught as neither the public nor the 
profession were ready to accept sci- 
entific treatments of hair, skin and 
scalp. 

Not until about 1920 was much ef- 
fort made to professionalize the work. 

The Manual^ for instance, the text- 
book, issued by the Moler System of 
Colleges, included a brief study course 
and a compend of diseases. 

From time to time as the public 
would accept, this was increased and 
elaborated upon until today the curri- 
culum of the Moler System of Col- 
leges embodies elementary chemistry, 
histology, bacteriology, and anatomy 
in addition to the practical training 
course. 

In 1916 there was another advance 
of importance enacted, a system of 
barbering known as the "Terminal 
Methods." It had its origin in the 
mind of a Mr. Schuster, an Austrian 
by birth, who came to New York City 
and seeing the great advancement in 
barbering over that of the old country, 
was inspired to do still greater things, 
and with the assistance of Mr. Mc- 
Adoo, who was then in charge of the 
Pennsylvania Railway, established a 
super-sanitary shop in the Terminal 
Station in New York City. The shops 



throughout New York that were later 
established by this system, were known 
as the "Terminal Methods," and now 
embrace most of the leading shops of 
the large cities everywhere. The work 
of the Terminal Methods included the 
boiling in water of every instrument 
used in plain view of the customer ; 
the sealing of brushes in airtight glass- 
ine bags after the instruments had 
been thoroughly sterilized, either by 
baking, boiling or dipping into a ster- 
ilizing solution ; and it carried this 
strict sanitation and more professional 
work into every act of the barber. 

Altogether it was apparent Terminal 
Methods would eventually win the 
hearts of the public. It was not until 
1924 that the Moler System endorsed 
and put into effect this service in their 
Post Graduate Departments. 

Another event, the most recent and 
probably the most important of the 
twentieth century, was the establishing 
in 1924, by the Master Barbers of 
America, an educational Council 
whose duty it was to pass on the quali- 
fications of graduates from recognized 
schools, and to recommend them to 
standard shops for employment. 

The work of this Council doubtless 
had more to do with the standardiza- 
tion and uplift of barbering than any 
other act in recent history, for it not 
only provided the service but looked 
after the application of it. 

Too much cannot be said regarding 
this Association whose foresighted- 
ness led to so effective a work. 



Lesson 



Subject 

TOOLS 



One 



Selection and Care of Tools 

nr\HE fact that a barber can be no better 
A than his outfit, makes the selection of 
tools second in importance only to the 
actual work, for no one, no matter how 
well trained, can do good work with poor 
tools. 

Razor 

Let us talk of the razor first. In select- 
ing a razor, you have this to consider ; the 
style of grind, the width and length of the 
blade, the handle that gives it a general 
balance, the material in the blank from 
which the blade is ground and the finish or 
polish. 



Things to Remember 



Heat expands and cold con- 
tracts ; both affect the fine edge 
of razors. 




Razor blank made of welded steel wire 

I show you here the razor blank and 
you will note, by the twisted ends at the 
shank, that a razor is not made of one solid 
piece of metal, but of a number of twisted 
wires welded into one. The object of mak- 
ing blanks in this way is that the ends of 
the wires brought to the edge of the blade, 



Steel tvill retain poisonous 
germs that can best be elimin- 
ated by boiling. 



Page five 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




oint 



Names of razor parts 



Things to Remember 



A razor blank as it comes 
from the forge is wedge 
shaped and may be ground into 
any concave desired. 



gives a better grain or a blade that will be 
less susceptable to the climatic conditions, 
heat and cold. 

It may be information to you to know 
that nearly all razors are made from very 
much the same blanks. While it is true 
some factories may have a better process of 
making blades than others, many razors of 



Page six 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



many processes and names are made from 
exactly the same blanks, the differences in 
prices generally being made up in the bet- 
ter or lesser methods of tempering, grind- 
ing and finish. 

In selecting a razor, you have nothing to 
be guided by as to the softness or hardness 
of the steel, for the manufacturers them- 
selves will tell you they are not able to actu- 
ally detect this, yet you will see barbers 
making all kinds of tests and telling the 
dealer it is too hard or too soft with ab- 
solutely no way of proving their state- 
ment. 

There are few barber razors or those 
of national reputation handled by the deal- 
ers throughout the country that are not 
properly tempered. They are so carefully 
scrutinized and selected in the process of 
manufacturing that seldom or ever is a de- 
fective barber's razor found on the market. 

This is probably not true of the general 
hardware or department store razors, but 
it holds good with the razors in which you, 
as a barber will come in contact, if you are 
buying through the regular barber supply 
dealers, so you have little that need concern 
you regarding the temper. 

The style of grind, however, has much 
to do with the cost of the razor. A full 
concave is the highest priced grind we have 
and you will be able to detect this grind by 
looking at the blade from the end, which 
shows a thinner part of the blade next to 
the heavy back and a heavier point be- 
tween this thin metal and the point. 



Things to Remember 



Only the expert can detect 
the hardness, softness or tem- 
per of a razor blade. A barber 
is not competent to judge. 









A poor blank could not be 
full concave and give satisfac- 
tion. 



Page seven 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



The most delicate razor is 
the full concave. The most 
undesirable is the wedge. 



To test the flexibility of a 
blade by running the thumb 
nail along the side of the blade 
detects nothing and frequently 
spoils the edge. Dealers object 
to this. 




TT 



She wing degree of concaves 

It is easy to detect the concave towards 
the point of the razor, but frequently the 
razor is concaved only at the point and re- 
mains heavier toward the heel. This can 
be detected by running the finger and 
thumb from the back towards the .point, 
first at the end nearest point, and continue 
to make the same test each time a little 
farther back on the blade until you reach 
the heel. 

If you find by the feel of the blade, that 
it is not quite as thin towards the heel, it 
need not necessarily follow that it is a 
cheaper razor, but it should have a fairly 
good concave from point to heel. 

There is a small gauge made by which 
the exact concave can be tested, but this 
would be of little value to you as your se- 
lection is made from the blade that balances 
well in your hand and in general size and 
make-up. 

A half concave blade is less of a hollow- 
ing than the full concave and the three- 
quarter or plain grind has still less or none. 
There is on the market now, an old-fash- 
ioned type known as the Wedge that has 
no concave and it is having more or less 
recommendation with the younger barbers 



Page eight 





THE BARBERS* MANUAL 

Things to Remember 



The practice of grinding or 
breaking off the point of a ra- 
zor denotes lack of skill. 




Showing different shape points 

who do not know it was an old obsolete 
type many years ago. 

If, however, it seems to suit best there 
is no serious objections to using it. It 
does, however, require a good deal more 
honing to keep in condition, is heavier and 
more awkward to use. 



The point of the razor may be square 
or rounded, but we always recommend that 
even though a square point seems more 
difficult to use that you accustom your- 
self to it right from the beginning for 
there are so many places in the shave that 
you need the square point that you are 
working at a disadvantage if you allow the 
point to be ground off. 

There are different styles of head, 
square and round, but the round head is 
much more desirable than the square. It 
does not scratch the strop, gives a nicer 
balance to the razor and generally a 
better appearance. Nearly all high priced 
razors have the round head and square 
point. 

The finish can be either a polished steel, 
crokus or, in some instances, a nickel finish. 
The crokus finish on a razor is the most 



The illustrations above shozv 
old fashioned heads and points, 
not the modern styles. 



Page nine 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



Frequently an expensive 
polish is given to a cheap 
blank. Most barber razors are 
plain steel polished. 



expensive. It has the brighter, more pol- 
ished appearance, but for real value has 
nothing to do with the cutting qualities, 
although when the razor is new it enables 
you to hone it a little easier. 

The plain steel finish that frequently 
shows that bluish tinge that gives the name 
of blue steel to many a razor, is for all 
practical use just as good as the crokus and 
a little less expensive. If you see a bluish 
caste here and there through the blade, do 
not be led to believe it is a defect or a 
burned spot, rather it denotes good steel. 

The nickel finish should always be avoid- 
ed, as it is almost impossible to re-hone a 
nickled blade. This is the finish that you 
frequently see on hardware razors and the 
cheaper grades that are made for looks 
rather than service. 



The longer the blade, the 
more cutting surface you have, 
and the less frequent honing 
required. 



The length of the blade should be se- 
lected simply to your own liking. If a 
short blade seems most likable in your 
hand, select it, or if the longer blade seems 
to have a better feel, use it, for there is 
really nothing to choose as far as the real 
shaving is concerned in the longer or 
shorter blade. 

The width of the blades are gauged by 
eighths, such as 4/8, 5/8, 6/8, etc. The 
5/8 is generally selected in purchasing a 
new blade even though it may be a trifle 
larger than you like to work with for 
razors always grow smaller with use and 



Page ten 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

Things to Remember 




The several sizes of blades 



if too small a blade is purchased in the be- 
ginning, it shortens the life or the useful- 
ness of your razor. 

That is why the professional razor 
trader, who visits the shop is always de- 
sireous of getting the bigger blades for in 
his rounds he is loaded up with the blade 
that has become too small. The profess- 
ional trader, however, should be avoided. 
He lives off the man who is notional not 
professional, for barbers, like every artist, 
frequently become temperamental and lay 
their, faults to the instrument. 

The handle of a razor is generally se- 
lected by the manufacturer to properly bal- 
ance the blade and seldom, if ever, can you 
change the handle and be as satisfied as 
before. 

In purchasing a razor, one should guard 
against the handle that may warp and al- 
low the blade to strike the handle in closing, 
but we seldom find this fault in a barber's 
razor. The ornamentations on a handle, as 
you know, is solely for looks, but the one 
who takes pride in his outfit will select 
with an eye to beauty as well as prac- 
ticability. 



The wide blade has greater 
expansion and contraction than 
the narrow one and more fre- 
quently loses its edge by chang- 
ing temperatures. 



If a razor handle warps, 
causing the edge of the blade 
to strike, it can be straightened 
by heat, either moist or dry. 



Page eleven 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



A hone ivill "steel-bind." 
Washing in gasoline or like 
material zvill free it. 



Hone 

. Razor hones are of two varieties — quar- 
ried and manufactured. The quarried hone 
is sometimes called a lather hone, some- 
times a hickory and sometimes an oil stone. 
This hone comes from the quarries of Bel- 
gium and is found deep down in the earth's 
crevices or caves of that country. It is a 
formation of seepage through the rock and 
has the appearance on the inside of the 
cave of icicles. 



The grain of a hone can be 
tested by running the finger or 
thumb nail endwise on the sur- 
face. 




Belgium hone 

The one illustrated is of two colors, all 
in one piece of material. That is the one 
that is sawed from the rock next to the 
alkali deposits caused by the seepage. 

There are others of this variety where 
the two colors are glued together. This is 
where a part of the rock is sawed and 
simply furnishes a foundation of strength 
of background to hold the cream color part 
of the stone, the real hone. 

The rock is not a hone, simply the 
strength of the cutting part. This hone 
is not as popular at this time as it has been 
in the past, mainly because it does not do 
this work as fast, but it does give a more 
lasting edge than the faster cutting hones. 




Water hone 



Page twelve 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



The dark colored hone is known as a 
water hone and also comes from Belgium 
and Germany. It is also a quarried hone 
and is obtainable in a number of grades, 
usually called blue, dark blue, green or 
yellow green, and is without doubt the best 
hone for a beginner as it cuts very slow, 
does not over hone and enables one to 
practice honing without ruining the razor, 
as with the faster cutting hone used by one 
not familiar with their work or who knows 
when his blade is taking an edge. 



Things to Remember 



Selecting a good hone is 
largely speculative except by 
experts of which there are but 

few. 

S. R. Drocscher, New York, 
is our authority. 



Swaty hone 

The manufactured hone is of a number 
of varieties. Some are made to cut reas- 
onably slow while others are made to cut 
medium or over fast, but none of the manu- 
factured stones have the real soft cutting 
edge of the quarried stone. 

However, this need not condemn them 
for the fast cutting hone is used success- 
fully by many barbers, however, nearly 
every barber has one fast cutting and one 
slow cutting hone in his kit. 




Carborundum hone 



Among the manufactured hones is the 
Swaty, a stone imported from Austria, 
the Carborundum, made in this coun- 
try and the composition made from oil resi- 
dus under a great many names. However, 
I believe the Swaty gives the most univer- 
sal satisfaction of all manufactured hones. 



A hone zvhile in use should 
be kept at the temperature of 
the room as should also the 
materials used with it. Other- 
wise the edge of the razor zvill 
be effected by the change of 
temperature. 



Page thirteen 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



A shear should balance ivell 
in the hand, not fit the finger 
or thumb. Ferrule must fit 
loosely and the knack of hand- 
ling acquired by practice. 



A shear blade will spread 
disease as readily as a razor 
and should be boiled as fre- 
quently. 



Shears 

The barber's shear is generally the type 
known as all steel, which, according to the 
name, is one solid piece of steel from point 
to ferule. 

There was a time when steel laid shears 
and cast steel was tried out in the barber 
shop, but you find very few of this make 
now in the barber's hands. 

The all steel shear may be hand forged, 
which means hammered out as the black- 
smith would sharpen an instrument or it 
may be stamped in shape and not ham- 
mered in shape. 

A steel laid shear is one in which a thin 
layer of steel is welded to a blank giving 
only a partial steel blade. The cast steel 
is the cheaper variety such as the house- 
hold shear. 




French pattern hair cutting shear 

The pattern of the shears vary more in 
regards to handles and ferules than in 
blades. The all steel shear may be ground 
to a thinner blade and be serviceable than 
would be possible with the steel blade or 
cast, but the handles and ferules are known 
as the French type or the German type, 
although the French type is made in Ger- 
man shears as well as of French manufac- 
ture. 



Page fourteen 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



inx 



>o mts 




movino Wade C- / £ j 

O hinder rerule 

rhumb rerule 



Names of shear parts 



The French type ferules are the small 
round ferules illustrated, while the Ger- 
man type is the flatter or broader ferule 
made to fit the finger and thumb. The 
French type is most in demand and finds 
general favor among the barbers, for the 
German type, if it were to give the comfort 
for which it is designed, would really have 
to be made for each individual. 



Things to Remember 



The French patterned shear 
can be used for either the right 
or left hand. The only dif- 
ference being that the sharp 
point is on the wrong blade. 
This, hoivever, is not a serious 
objection. 



Page fifteen 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



An inexperienced workman 
usually prefers rubber shear 
pads for the ferrule but will 
discard them when he becomes 
more skillful. 



Any one aside from an ex- 
pert grinder who advises he 
can re-edge or re-set a pair of 
shears properly, is to be avoid- 
ed. The screw holding the 
blades should never be adjust- 
ed by the barber. 



Another point in favor of the French 
pattern is it's lightness, general delicacy 
and refinement. Shears are made with a 
"set", which means a curve to each blade, 
that, when closed, brings the points close 
together enabling them to cut clear to the 
point and will show space between the 
blades with the exception of a little at the 
point when they are closed. You may be 
led to believe this is a defect. It is not, it 
is the spring or set they must have. 

Shears like razors may have a plain 
steel finish, a crokus or a nickel and like 
the razor and for the same reason a crokus 
is the most expensive. The sizes may be 
6 1/2, 7, 7y 2 or 8 inch, but probably the 
7 inch finds greatest favor. This, however, 
is according to your own likes or dislikes. 

Shears should never be given to the 
grinder to be sharpened and it is not ad- 
visable for you to attempt to re-edge your 
own shear. If one is experienced, he may 
possibly renew an edge temporarily on a 
grinding wheel, with a small file or on the 
hone, but this is only a temporary relief 
for shears usually need a re-set if they 
need a re-grind and only the experienced 
grinder can give this. Do not give your 
shears to the street grinder, the barber 
supply house is the place to re-grind a bar- 
ber shear. 



Page sixteen 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Clippers 

Clippers are made of any number of 
styles, sizes and qualities, but the same 
rule that applies to the other instruments 
applies to the clipper, only the very best 
obtainable should be purchased. 

A style most favored by the barber is the 
one with the coil spring that never breaks, 
the one that can be easily taken apart and 
put together and the one that has the best 
feel in the hands. By this, I mean the one 
that handles best. 

There are many imitations to this pat- 
tern, but if the imitation was better it 
would not be made an imitation to this 
standard make. 




High grade hand clipper 

The size or length of cut is to be taken 
into consideration. Generally a barber 
will have in his kit, two or three sizes, but 
many use only one and do very good work. 
The sizes No. 1, No, 0, No. 00 and No. 000 
are used, but probably the No. 0, if only 
one clipper is in the outfit, is best. The No. 
00 and No. 000 cut proportionately shorter, 
the No. 1 is the longest cut the barber uses. 




Things to Remember 



The clipper blade zvill innoc- 
ulatc as readily as a razor or 
shear and should be boiled as 
frequently. 



The usual cause for clipper 
pulling is improper adjustment 
of the tension screw at the top 
of the plate. It can be too 
tight as well as too loose. 



Illustrating corrugated bottom 



Paje seventeen 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



Anxiety to use the electric 
clipper in place of the hand 
machine is the cause of much 
hair cutting trouble. The use 
of the hand clipper must be 
acquired first, otherwise when 
the electric fails the barber 
fails with it. 



The corrugated bottom plate is so made 
that it will slide readily over the surface. 
A flat bottom plate will stick to the neck 
especially if the surface is moist, which is 
the case when a customer perspires. 

The finish of the clipper is generally the 
polished steel not nickel. The cheaper va- 
rieties are made with a round spring in 
the mechanism that frequently breaks and 
has not the strength of the coil or barrel 
spring just referred to. 



Magnetic clipper works suc- 
cessfully only in alternating 
currents. Standard clippers are 
universal and can be used on 
either direct or alternating cur- 
rents. 




Electric hand clipper 



Electric standard clipper 



Electric clippers are universally used, 
but a student must first learn to use the 
hand clippers very successfully before at- 
tempting to use the electric. Electrics are 
made to operate by motor and flexible shaft 
or by magnet like a doorbell. 



Page eighteen 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




;!ifffp?!ffnpf 



Metal back hair brush. Permits boiling- 



Hairbrush 

The hairbrush is the instrument that 
may seem less important but equally as 
great care should be given to the selection 
of it as any other instrument in the kit. 

A hairbrush is dangerous because it is 
a germ carrier, difficult to sterilize and fre- 
quently harmful if too penetrating. Many 
states have passed laws forbidding a hair- 
brush in a barber shop unless as the cus- 
tomer's own individual property, and they 
are prohibited on all sleeping cars for pub- 
lic use. 



Things to Remember 



The metal back hairbrush 
can be boiled and is the best 
method of sterilization. Wood 
backs cannot. 




Air cushion hair brush 



It is, therefore, important that you se- 
lect one that can be sterilized, the metal 
back or one with bristles set in vulcanized 
rubber that is detachable from the handle. 
I illustrate one of each that have passed 
most State Board examinations. Hair- 
brushes should be sterilized after each ap- 
plication. 



In selecting a hair brush, 
sice, shape, width and length 
of bristles must be taken into 
consideration. 



Paijc nineteen 




THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember 



The "break in" of a strop 
is the biggest part of it, if you 
are breaking in on good ma- 
terial. 



Strops should never be fold- 
ed closely, as it spoils the sur- 
face. Be especially cautious 
of this if carrying in a kit. 



Leather and canvas strops 

Strops 

Strops should always be used in pairs, 
canvas and leather. . The canvas strop 
should be a good quality linen hose, for 
when well broken in it will last a lifetime 
and becomes better with age. 

Generally canvas strops are machine fin- 
ished at the factory, but as a rule require 
additional work. Dry soap rubbed into 
the strop that may be fastened to a smooth 
surface and rubbed with a bottle is a good 
method of dressing strops, but this should 
not be done until the strop begins to be 
rough from use. 

The strop should be kept as dry as pos- 
sible for the moisture swells it and makes 
it rough. It is, therefore, not advisable to 
use lather in rubbing the strop unless it 
may be to remove the grit that accumu- 
lates on the surface of an old strop. 

When this is done, apply the lather 
freely and immediately scrape it off with 
the blade of the shear before the canvas 
has time to soak up the moisture. It is 
well occasionally to wipe the surface of the 
strop with cotton saturated in alcohol. 

The leather strop is made of a number 
of grades of leather. The heavy Russia, 
the lighter weight Shell, and the Horse- 
Hide. The Russia leather gets its name 
from the imported article of years ago, but 
as we get little or none of the imported 
goods now, we use the American cow-hide 



Page twenty 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

Things to Remember 



Canvas strop 

or some heavy leather and give it the 
stamp on the back the same as the im- 
ported gives. This you will see is the red 
corrugated finish. 

This heavy leather requires a great deal 
of work to break in or make satisfactory 
for the barber's use, as it continues to be- 
come rough by stropping until a great deal 
of work has been put on the finish. 




Russia leather strop 

The Russia Shell is simply a piece 
of shell leather which in reality is more 
a muscle over the rump of the horse 
than a leather, and as only a few strops 
can be cut from a hide, it makes this 
a rather expensive strop. It needs no 
work or breaking in to put it in condi- 
tion. It has a smooth surface and remains 
smooth no matter how much service you 
give it. 

It is frequently stamped on the back by 
manufacturers the same as the Russia 
strop, and this is what gives it its name, 
"Russia Shell." 

A horse-hide strop is not desirable for 
barbers' use. It is the kind that is put in 
strops for private use, but does not have 
a sufficient grain to draw out the edge of a 
razor or a sufficiently smooth service to 
put on a good edge. 



A strop, like a violin, im- 
proves with age only if prop- 
erly used. 



A strop can poison your ra- 
zor, therefore should be steri- 
lized by treating with carbol- 
ized vaseline. 



Page tzveiily-one 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



The tip ends of the neck 
duster that come in contact 
zvith the individual, can be kept 
sanitary by frequently dipping 
into a mild sterilizing solution. 



Neck Dusters 

Neck dusters are made with and with- 
out a fountain handle. The fountain han- 
dle carries talcum powder that is dis- 
charged into the roots of the bristles by 
using the neck duster and enables the bar- 
ber to powder the neck without the incon- 
venience of picking up the powder can to 
sift into the neck duster 




A wide band of paper 
slipped over the hair of the 
neck duster will keep it 
straight when not in use. 



Fountain neck duster, contains powder 

The hair of the neck duster, if of good 
quality, is horsehair, but frequently cheap- 
er grades are made of fibre. Neck dusters 
are made with wood handles without the 
fountain compartment, but as dusters must 
be washed frequently, the celluloid or 
metal handle is preferred. 




Wood handle neck duster 



The neck duster is cleansed by washing 
in a germicidal soap and warm water and 
the ends of the bristles dipped in a 3 per 
cent solution of carbolic acid and water, 
then dry thoroughly by whirling the neck 
duster between the two hands. Be sure 
the brush is thoroughly dry before putting 
it into your kit for if it is left moist and 
allowed to dry out of shape, it spoils its 
bristles. 



Page twenty-two 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Lather Brush 

The lather brush should be one so made 
that it will stand boiling in hot water, 
which means that the bristles should be 
vulcanized in rubber and the handle of 




Rubberset lather brush showing construction 

celluloid or metal that could not be af- 
fected by the heat. The wood handle lather 
brush or the old-fashioned twine bound no 
longer have a place in the sanitary shop. 

Mug 

The plain glass mug, where mugs are 
used, has taken the lead over the china 
mug, for they have a more cleanly and 
sanitary appearance, but in using a glass 
mug one must be careful not to dash hot 
water into it. It can be poured in on 
the lather brush, but in no event should 
extremely hot water be used where soap is 






1 



Things to Remember 



PREDICTION 

Neither a lather brush nor a 
mug zvill be used in the barber 
shop of 1930. 



Gold band crystal glass mug 

in the mug for it scalds and renders the 
soap useless. Both the cup and brush 
should be thoroughly rinsed before each 
usage and it should be done conspicuously 
enough so that your customer can see he 
is getting fresh, clean lather. 



A sloppy mug driveth away 
patronage. 



Page twenty-three 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



A number of threads held 
tightly between the fingers and 
thumb provides a good comb 
cleaner. Rough edges of the 
teeth may be smoothed by 
scraping with broken glass. 



Comb 

A comb of either rubber or horn is ac- 
ceptable. Possibly the rubber is prefer- 
able as it does not warp or lose its shape 
and is equally durable as any other. 

The horn comb, however, has its friends 
among the barbers and probably there is 
little to choose between them. They should 




Hard rubber hair cutting comb 



be thoroughly washed and dipped in the 
sterilizing solution after each customer. A 
comb with a thin end for close haircutting 
is the style that is necessary and one with 
one-half coarse and one-half fine teeth is 
preferred. 



A razor pocket is a con- 
venience, not a necessity. If 
used, must be kept clean. 



Leather Roll 

A razor roll with pocket for combs, 
shears, etc., is convenient for carrying the 
instruments, but if a sterilizing cabinet is 
preferred for the barber, the roll is not 
needed on the workstand. 




Razor pockets 



Page twenty-four 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Uniform 



Barbers should be uniformed in white, 
but many use only a white coat, still the 
white trousers and shirt or white trousers 
and jacket gives a much nicer appearance. 
The uniform in the high-class shop should 
be changed daily. 

Many shops adopt a plan of sealing the 
brushes, combs, and other instruments in 
a glassine bag (a transparent container 
that keeps them free from dust), breaking 
the seal when the instrument is used for 
each customer. This requires a number 
of brushes and combs but the effect on a 
high class trade warrants the extra ser- 
vice. 




Things to Remember 



A long belted jacket gives a 
professional look, but in hot 
zveather is burdensome. White 
shirt and trousers are appro- 
priate. 



To encase instruments in 
sealed packages has a favor- 
able psychological effect on 
patronage. 



Regulation barber uniform 



Page twenty-five 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



A smooth even draw just 
heavy enough to feel the cut 
gives the best edge. 



It is well to practice on an old razor or 
on a slow cutting hone that you do not 
damage a perfectly good instrument and 
continue to practice this until it becomes 
perfectly easy and natural. 

After the mechanical skill has been ac- 
quired, the testing of the edge to determine 
its fitness is next in importance. 




Line of direction for razor on hone 



An uneven edge cannot be 
kept sharp. Hone evenly from 
heel to point. 



You determine the edge by testing it on 
the nail. Usually the barber moistens his 
thumb nail, and by drawing the edge over 
the nail lightly, it will tell you the condition. 
If a razor has a thick blunt edge, it will 
ride over the nail without making any im- 
pression as would any blunt instrument, 
but if it is honed thin, it will cut in and 
draw as you move it over the surface. If 
it has a rather gritty grating feeling, it will 
indicate that the razor is too rough and 
this may be when it is not quite honed to an 
edge or when it has been over-honed to the 



Page twenty-eight 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

Things to Remember 



A nick in the edge of the 
razor causes it to jump as it 
is drawn over the nail. 




Finish with light even stroke 

degree where the edge breaks and crumbles 
giving it that disagreeable gritty feeling. 

It is necessary to test the edge frequently 
as you hone, in order to detect its condition, 
and as you find it is taking an edge, hone 




Testing edge after honing 

very cautiously for an over-honed edge is 
as bad or worse than one not sufficiently 
honed. There is little danger of over-hon- 
ing when a water hone is used. This is 
why it is recommended from the beginning, 
but as the water hone is a little too slow 
for the workman who wants to make time, 
the Swaty hone here has its place in the kit. 



An overhoned edge feels 
rough, like a file. It can be 
smoothed by drawing over a 
match or like surface, a few 
times, then rehoned. 



Page twenty-nine 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



Neither the razor nor strop 
should be colder than the tem- 
perature of the room when 
stropping. 



Stropping 

A razor unless freshly honed should al- 
ways be stropped on the canvas strop first 
just enough to draw out the edge and finish 
on the leather. There is a friction in 
stropping on the canvas that heats the 
metal, thereby expanding it and bringing 
it out to a keener edge so enough stropping 
should be given on the canvas to heat the 
blade, from one-half to one dozen strokes. 

The strops should be held tight and a 
sufficient pressure given the razor on the 
strop to feel the draw and the razor must 
be held perfectly flat on the strop. It can 
be drawn perfectly straight, but there will 
be no harm if drawn diagonally on the sur- 



Freshly honed razors need 
only the leather strop. A 
freshly honed razor is one just 
off the hone. 




Stropping position 



Page thirty 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



face and it should be turned on its back 
for each stroke without lifting it from the 
strop. 

There is quite a knack turning the razor 
in the hand without turning the hand it- 
self. It should be so held that it can be 
easily rolled in the hand, making the pro- 
cess of stropping much easier and more 
graceful. 

After the proper number of strokes on 
the canvas, turn the strop over, bringing 
the leather side up, and strop on this the 
same as on the canvas, generally about the 
same number of strokes. 

If a razor is freshly honed it should not 
be put on the canvas strop but should be 



Things to Remember 



The more shaves you give, 
without honing, the more 
stropping will be needed. First 
with canvas, second with 
leather. 




Too much stropping or too 
heavy is as bad as\not enough, 
and too lightly. 



Turning razor on strop 



Page thirty-one 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



A stropped razor gives its 
answer to the flesh, not the 
nail. 



The razor should be stropped 
just before the shave; no other 
time. This is on account of 
the heat given to the razor by 
the friction of stropping. The 
heat expands the metal, giving 
a better edge. 



stropped immediately on the leather and 
usually a little more stropping at first than 
will be required after the edge has been 
smoothed. 




Testing edge after stropping 

You test the edge of your razor after 
stropping by drawing it over the flesh or 
ball of your finger. Draw the razor care- 
fully over the surface or you may draw 
your finger over the edge, to detect its con- 
dition. 

If in perfect shape, it will have a 
smooth, keen cut that will not permit you 
to draw very far without cutting through, 
but if it is rough it will have a rather dis- 
agreeable feeling, although it may cut into 
the flesh just as quickly as the keen edge. 

This, however, would not give a satis- 
factory shave where the smooth, keen edge 
is necessary to do the work properly. If 
you were to look at the blade through a 
microscope you would find it has teeth like 
a saw and the honing and stropping is 
given to obtain just the proper set or size 
to the teeth. 



Page thirty-two 



Lesson 



Subject 

SHAVING 



Three 



Exercises 

PRECEDING our lesson in shaving, we 
give a number of exercises that are 
essential in enabling one to take the pro- 
per positions in handling razor and to put 
the hands in proper condition for shaving. 

These exercises can be practiced to ad- 
vantage preceding the actual work at the 
chair but in your endeavor to put this into 
effect, if for home practice, be sure that 
you have followed instructions carefully. 

You must note that a razor is never car- 
ried straight forward toward the edge; it 
must always be held so that the cutting 
edge will strike the object to be cut at an 
angle or like sawing, for it is the teeth or 
roughness in the edge (too fine to be de- 
tected with the naked eye) that does the 
work like the teeth in a saw, therefore 
every stroke with a razor blade must be a 
sliding stroke. Too much emphasis cannot 
be given to this particular point, for if not 
practiced properly, your exercises would 
be of no avail. 

The several positions that one must ac- 
quire in getting at all parts of the face, are 
four in number called Free Hand, Back 
Hand, Double Back Hand and Reverse 
Hand. The object in using the left hand 
while working with the right is to imitate 
the actual shaving movements. The left 
hand is always used to draw the skin tight 
under razor and the exercises must be with 
the left hand, either back or in front, ac- 
cording to the number you are working on. 



Things to Remember 



A razor is carried over the 
face, not dragged or pushed. 



Cutting strokes like cutting 
remarks, penetrate if not hand- 
led skillfully. 



Page thirty-three 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember 



Shave Exercise No. 1 



A cutting stroke is a move- 
ment straight forward, not a 
swing, with the point of the 
blade carried ahead. 




FREE HAND 

This movement is used in actual work at the chair for 
shaving the right side of the face, the left side of the 
chin, and the upward movement of both right and left sides 
of the neck. It is the most general and one of the easiest 
movements used in shaving. 



No, you haven't it yet; try 
again. 



Page thirty-four 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

Things to Remember 



Shave Exercise No. 1 



Keep the wrist stiff, but bend 
the elbow. 




EXERCISE NO. 1 

Take razor in right hand, handle between little and third 
finger. Raise elbow nearly level with the shoulder. Take 
position as if shaving. Hold left hand back of razor as if 
stretching the skin tight under the razor. 

Move razor in right hand toward you with a diagonal stroke 
toward the point, a sliding movement, then back and forth 
like sawing. The length of strokes should be from 8 inches 
to a foot. 



Muscle control is acquirea 
by continual practice. 



Page thirty-five 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember 



Shave Exercise No. 2 



Keep the elbow up and carry 
the razor with a straight, slid- 
ing stroke, not a swing. 




LACK HAND 

This movement is used in actual work at the chair for 
shaving the right side of the chin, the left side of the face, 
the left side of the neck shaving down and the left side 
of the upper lip. It is one of the most difficult movements 
and next in importance to the Free Hand. 



Do not get behind your razor 
and push. Give it a chance to 
cut by using a cutting stroke. 



Page thirty-six 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

Things to Remember 



Shave Exercise No. 2 



Keep the point ahead, car- 
ried at an angle. 




EXERCISE XO. 2 

Take razor in right hand with handle bent back, the shank 
of the razor resting on the first two joints of the first two 
fingers and held in place by the thumb on the back of the 
bhank of the razor, — the blade from you and the handle 
pointing toward you. 

Raise the elbow nearly as high as the shoulder, the back of 
the hand directly from you, the wrist slightly bent downward. 
Hold the left hand as if stretching the skin tight under the 
razor. 



Stiffen the wrist and forearm 
to better control the stroke. 



Page thirty-seven 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember 



Shave Exercise No. 3 



Draw toward the heel, mov- 
ing forward at an angle. 




Keep the wrist and elbow 
stiff. Move up from the 
shoulder. 



REVERSE HAND 

This movement is used in actual work at the chair for either 
right or left side of the neck shaving up. It is not as generally 
used by the barber as the other two movements for it is one 
of the most difficult movements to acquire. It is a labor saver 
and should be mastered. 



Page thirty-eight 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

Things to Remember 



Shave Exercise No. 3 



Do not let the blade swing. 
Carry it up, held at an angle. 




EXERCISE NO. 3 

Take razor in right hand with the edge toward you jus* 
the reverse of Movement No. 2. This will bring the handle 
between the ends of the little and third finger. The handle 
bent slightly back. 

Move the razor toward you with a slightly upward move- 
ment drawing toward you and toward the heel in a diagonal 
direction. The length of the movement is from 4 to 6 
inches. 

Hold the left hand as if pulling the skin tight under the 
razor. 



Both hands in position are 
necessary with all of these ex- 



ercises. 



Page thirty-nine 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember 



Shave Exercise No. 4 



This is a hard position re- 
quiring a limber wrist and per- 
fect muscle control. 




DOUBLE RACK HAND 

This movement is used in actual work at the chair for 

making the outline of the hair cut. It is used on the left 

side, back of the ear. The position is quite difficult, but 
practice will attain it. 



This stroke when mastered, 
saves many steps. 



Page forty 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

Things to Remember 



Shave Exercise No. 4 

i 



This is not a sliding stroke, 
rather a chop. 




EXERCISE NO. 4 

Take razor in right hand as in Movement No. 2. Drop the 
elbow close to the side, turn the palm of the hand up with 
the razor in a position that will bring the point down. 

Raise the left arm and hand in a position as if drawing 
the skin tight under th° razor. 

The movement is a slight forward movement toward the 
edge of the razor. 

Practice is required to attain the position. The movement 
ls not difficult. 



This movement is a short 
downward stroke from the 
shoulder. 



Page forty-one 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember 



Deviations from the chart 
instructions are made for 
growth of mustache, partial 

j • j , 3 — rRct HAND 

zvhiskers, etc. 

I-FREEHAND 

2-BACKHANO 

4— FREE HAND DOWN 

5-FREEHANDUP 




BACK HAN 0-8 
BACKHANO— 6 

FREEHAND— 7 



BACK HAND DOWN— 9 
-FREE HANDUP-IO 



14-FREEHANDUNDERLIP / 

/ ll-FREEHANDACROSS \ ♦. 

1 3-FREE HANGUP 

12— FREEHANO DOWN 

Diagram of Face for Shave. 



Don't recline your chair too 
speedily, or drop it with a 
slam. 



As your customer takes your chair, raise 
the headrest several notches and try to 
turn the chair in a manner that will make 
it easy for him to be seated, and as you 
swing the chair in position, also recline it 
at the proper angle, making it comfortable 
for the customer, still easy for you to op- 
erate. 

Avoid letting the chair down to its ex- 
treme limit and pumping it up to height 
to suit you for the customer is never com- 
fortable laying perfectly flat. The head 
should be higher than the feet. The chair 
will be partially reclined always. 



Page forty-two 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Now cover the customer with a chair 
cloth by swinging it over the customer, not 
by standing back of the customer and 
swinging it over the head. There are con- 
ditions, such as extremely hot weather, 
when the chair cloth is not spread over the 
customer, but this is the unusual, not the 
usual procedure. 

Now take your face towel from the 
stack on your workstand right by your el- 
bow, unfold it and place it diagonally over 
the customer's chest and with the first fin- 
ger of the right hand lifting the neck band 
at the collar button and tuck the edge of 
the towel in at the neck band with a slid- 
ing motion with the first finger of the left 
hand. 

Now cross the other end of your towel 
over, turn the customer's face toward you 
and tuck in the other side, changing hands. 

See that the linen is smoothly and neatly 
spread for the manner of handling linen 
often decides in the boss's mind whether 
or not you will hold your first job. Now 
pick up your cup and brush and if you are 
working with an individual washstand in 
front of your customer, do the rinsing of 
the mug in a manner that will show your 
customer, if he may be looking, that you 
are giving him sanitary service. This 
should be done quickly and noislessly and 
only a little mixing after the water has 
been emptied from your cup, just a suffi- 
cient amount to fill your brush with a 
lather about the consistency of thick cream. 
If the lather in the brush is too moist, it 
will run down the customer's neck; if too 



Thing6 to Remember 



A neat linen 
good start. 



'set-up 1 ' is a 



A man well lathered is half 
shaved. 



Page forty-three 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember 



Too many fingers in the 
froth spoils the broth. 




Lather brush in hand 



To rattle your brush in the 
mug keeps your customer 
awake. If he wants to sleep, 
let him. 



stiff, it will dry quickly on the face and you 
will not get the benefits that the lather is 
intended to give to the operation. 

You apply the lather with the handle of 
the brush in the palm of the right hand, 
allowing the ends of your fingers to work 
down into the bristles to keep them from 
spreading too much and to enable you to 
handle the brush more easily. It must be 
used with a rotary movement, which not 
only works the lather into the roots of the 
hair, but enables the brush to make more 
lather in itself as you go over the face in 
a rotary movement. 

Apply the lather to all parts of the beard 
that is to be shaved using care around the 
mouth at the nostrils and at the ears. After 
the face has a good coat of lather, take 
the brush between the thumb and finger of 
the left hand, holding the hand at the 
headrest, not at the customer's forehead, in 
a manner that will enable you to turn the 
head from right to left without raising it 
from the headrest, and with the right hand 
rub the lather well with a rotary movement 
so that the soap will be worked well into the 
roots of the beard. 

After a little rubbing, generally from 
two to three minutes, you re-place your 
lather brush in the cup, pick up a turkish 



Page forty-four 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




Things to Remember 



Lathering. Left hand turning head 

or steam towel. Fold it once lengthwise, 
hold it under the hot water until thor- 
oughly saturated, wring it out reasonably 
dry, having it as hot as the hands will bear 
it comfortably, and spread it over the face 
by holding it at the two ends, bringing it 
from the lower part of the neck over the 
enti e face, including the forehead and 
eyes. 




Applying hot towel 

Allow the towel to remain on the face 
to steam while you strop the razor, then 
remove the lather and be careful not to 
rub against the grain of the beard. Re- 
lather the beard and proceed with the 
shave. 



There is a difference be- 
tween a steamed tozvel and a 
soaked one. Steam your totv- 
els. 



Cut and scald and you zvill 
have more time for the ball- 
game tomorrow. 



Page forty-jive 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember 



This illustration shows the 
improper position of the razor. 
The dotted lines show the pro- 
per position. This precau- 
tionary illustration should as- 
sist you to the right position. 



As much depends upon keep- 
ing the skin tight under the ra- 
zor as does the condition of 
your razor, for comfortable 
shaving. 




Right side free hand (No. 1.) 

Movements 

The razor is to be held in the right hand 
with the handle between the little and third 
ringer and in such a manner that it will 
enable you to draw the razor forward with 
a diagonal cutting stroke. The razor must 
not be drawn straight while shaving, it 
must have a sliding, cutting stroke. 

After stropping the razor start at the 
right side of the face at the hair line, 
shaving down with a free hand stroke to 
the jaw bone, holding the surface that 
you are going over smooth and tight 
with the left hand. As you continue to 
shave continue to bring the left hand close 
to the surface that you are shaving that 
you may draw the skin tight, and continue 
with the same kind of a stroke until the 
right side of the face has been shaved to 
the corner of the mouth. This is move- 
ment No. 1. 



Page forty-six 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

Things to Remember 



Another precaution regard- 
ing the back hand stroke may 
help. Keep the elbow up and 
carry the razor; do not push it. 




Position for back hand 

Allow me to caution you at this point 
regarding the use of lather paper. The 
regulation size for lather paper is 4x6 
inches. Always wipe your razor off in the 
center and not around the outer edge as 
you are apt to do. 

At this point you use the back hand 
stroke, which is reversing the razor in the 
hand, and so held that it will enable you to 
give a sliding stroke with the point of the 
razor in advance and shave to the point of 
the chin. 

Also be careful that you shave the cor- 
ner of the mouth with the back hand move- 
ment. This is movement No. 2. 



The proper placing of a cus- 
tomer in a chair that he may 
be comfortable is as important 
as the actual shave. Avoid 
dropping the headrest too low 
or reclining the chair too much. 



Page forty-seven 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember 



The left side of the upper 
lip is frequently shaved with 
the free hand stroke from the 
corner of the honth toward the 
nose, but it is not advisable in 
case of a heavy growth. 




Back hand (No. 2.) 



The direction the hair points 
coming out of the skin is called 
"with the grain." The opposite 
is called "against the grain." 
Shave with the grain all that it 
is possible. 



When you have completed this section of 
the face, which is from the corner of the 
mouth to the point of the chin as far down 
as the jaw bone, you will again use the 
free hand movement over the right side of 
the upper lip. 

With the left hand you will touch the 
nose lightly to enable you to place the razor 
on the upper lip, shaving first the portion 
under the nose. Finish the right side of 
the lip with the free hand movement. This 
is movement No. 3. 

There is some question, by barbers, re- 
garding the best manner of shaving the 
upper lip. Some prefer to shave against 
the grain, shaving from the corner of the 
mouth to the nose on either side, but ex- 
perience has taught us the beginner can 
better master this stroke by using the free 
hand on the right side and the back hand 
on the left. 



Page forty-eighl 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

Things to Remember 



In shaving the upper lip, 
avoid pinching the nose with 
the left hand ; just touch it 
lightly. 




Free hand down (No. 4.) 



You now start at the point of the chin, 
holding the skin tight between the thumb 
and second finger of the left hand and 
shave down on the side of the neck as far 
as the grain of the hair will allow, being 
cautious always not to touch a hair against 
the grain. Continue to shave over this sur- 
face as far back as the ear. This is move- 
ment No. 4. 

You will now step back of your cus- 
tomer for movement No. 5, a free hand 
stroke shaving the lower part of the neck 
up with the grain, stretching the skin on 
the neck between the thumb and fingers of 
the left hand, shaving on the surface that 
is so stretched. 



// the finger of the left hand 
is placed lightly against the 
side of the nose and the thumb 
at the corner of the mouth, the 
skin on the upper lip can be 
stretched, making the shave 
much easier. 



Page forty-nine 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember 



In shaving the left side of 
the face, a great deal depends 
upon the position in which the 
customer's head is placed. It 
should be turned to the right 
but done without cramping the 
neck. 



Keep the shave clean with- 
out scattering bits of lather 
over the shaved portion of the 
face. It looks mussy and in- 
terferes with your drawing the 
skin tight under the razor. 




Left side back hand (No. 6.) 

Now turn the face toward you with the 
left hand placed at the back of the head 
at the headrest. You turn the head while 
slightly lifting it and the customer will let 
it roll either direction you choose to place 
it, again strop your razor and re-lather — if 
the lather has become dry — and learn to 
use your razor and lather brush in the same 
hand. Take your position directly back of 
the chair and with the back hand stroke 
start at the hair line on the other side of 
the face, shaving down as far as the lower 
part of the ear. This is movement No. 6. 

Now use the free hand and shave the 
side of the face to the point of the chin as 
far down as the jaw bone. Also be care- 
ful that you shave the corner of the mouth 
with this free hand movement. This is 
movement No. 7. 



Page fifty 



:E BARBERS' MANUAL 

Things to Remember 



There is a knack in keeping 
the fingers of the left hand dry 
to better stretch the skin; and 
a knack in stretching the skin 
when the fingers are moist. 
Never use alum. 




Left side down back hand (No. 9.) 



Now with the back hand shave the op- 
posite side of the upper lip, movement 
No. 8, then continue shaving the oppo- 
site side of the neck, starting at the point 
of the chin, shaving down as far as 
the grain will allow. This is the back hand 
stroke No. 9. Now step back of your cus- 
tomer, with the free hand stroke, shave the 
lower part of the opposite side of the neck 
up, No. 10. 




The careful barber watches 
carefully the grain of the beard 
on the neck, and shaves zvith it. 



Left side up free hand (No.10.) 



Page fifty-one 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember 



The nat u r a I inclination 
seems to require the razor han- 
dle between the second and 
third fingers but it should be 
held between the third and 
fourth. 




Across chin free hand (No. 11.) 



There is a nicety in handling 
the shaving paper as well as 
the linen. It easily musses. 
Learn to keep it neat, and your 
sleeves out of the lather spread 
on it. 



Now turn the face up, always using the 
left hand for this purpose. Shave across 
the chin toward you with the free hand 
movement No. 1 1 , and hold the skin tight 
under the razor by stretching it between 
the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. 

Your first stroke is with the point of the 
razor, beginning at the upper part of the 
chin; your next stroke is with the center 
of your razor just a little lower on the 
chin, and the third stroke is with the heel 
of the razor still farther down. I wish to 
caution you here to be sure and use every 
part of your razor in shaving the chin. 

Now shave down with the free hand 
stroke No. 12 as far as the grain of the hair 
will allow, then step back of your customer 
and shave lower part of the neck up, free 
hand No. 13. Now you have left only the 
under lip to be shaved and you keep your 
position back of the customer, shaving up 



Page fifty-tzvo 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




with the free 
hand and stretch 
the skin down by 
placing the fin- 
ger of the left 
hand around the 
chin holding the 
skin tight. This 
is movement No. 
14. 



Under lip free hand (No. 14.) 

You now apply the hot towel as before 
and allow it to remain on the face while 
you strop your razor. Now hold your ra- 
zor as for the free hand stroke except that 
you are sliding the razor further into the 
hand and with the ends of the fingers of 
the same hand, hold the water bottle and 
give a dash of water into the palm of the 
left hand, moistening 
it so it will slide over 
the surface o f t h e 
face readily while go- 
ing the second time 
over. 




Things to Remember 



Number fourteen is a pecu- 
liar sliding and dipping stroke. 
It can only be acquired by 
practice. 



If the floor is not to be 
scrubbed, confine the spray of 
water to moistening the hands, 
not the floor. Moisten only 
sufficiently to wet the palm. 
The customer may not be 
ready for his Saturday night 
bath. 



Water bottle and razor 



Page fifty-three 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember 



The difficulty here is to keep 
the finger and thumb from 
slipping on the moist surface 
of the skin. There is a knack 
to it. If there weren't, bar- 
tering woidd be easy. 




Second time over 



Ascertain whether your 
stroke is too light or too heavy 
by trying on a true friend who 
will tell you the truth, then let 
him try on you, and you will 
learn a lot. 



Remove the towel and start the second 
time by shaving rather crosswise of the 
grain, not entirely with it, as you did the 
first time nor entirely against it as most 
barbers do. 

The first stroke can be on the right side 
of the face from toward the eye to the ear, 
continuing down the side of the face to the 
jaw bone. You now continue down the 
side of the neck with the grain and up on 
the lower part of the neck as you did the 
first time over. Turn the face toward you 
and shave the opposite side giving the first 
stroke on the side of the face from the ear 
toward the eye, always being careful not to 
scrape or use undue pressure. Just a firm 
steady stroke for it can be too light as well 
as too heavy. 

You will be able to use the free hand 
stroke over nearly the entire surface the 
second time over and there is no rigid or 
set rule about doing this part of the work. 
If your first time over has been carefully 



Page fifty-four 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



performed, there should be little shaving 
necessary the second time. It is intended 
only to catch the rough spots. 

Now lay your razor down, pick up the 
steam towel used before, saturate it again 
with hot water and place it over the face 
as hot as the customer can comfortably 
stand it. Sometimes a cream or menthol 
preparation is applied to the face before 
the hot towel that steams it into the pores 
of the skin, but this may be according to 
the method of the shop or your customer's 
desires. 

You may now remove the steam towel, 
and this is the time to talk Facial treat- 
ments, but as it is not part of this les- 
son we will omit it. Now apply your 
face lotion, going through several of the 
facial movements, after which you remove 
from the breast the towel tucked in around 
the neck, straighten it, lay over the face 
and dry first by rubbing it over the face, 
always taking note of the spots that may 
be left moist, the corners of the eyes, 
around the nostrils, the lower parts of the 
ears, etc. 

Always thoroughly dry the face before 
proceeding with any other part of the 
work, as it is uncomfortable for the cus- 
tomer if the face is only partially dry. 
Just a little fanning with the towel held at 
each end is sufficient and in many instances 
no fanning at all is the customer's wish. 

You now apply talcum powder by sifting 
a very little into the towel folded in the 
hand. 



Things to Remember 



The art of turning the head 
on the headrest is an important 
one. In this, the customer de- 
tects the barber's disposition or 
state of mind. An easy, care- 
ful movement is necessary. 



If a razor is put on the face 
too lightly, it denotes lack of 
confidence. If too heavily, it 
denotes carelessness. Have 
confidence without careless- 
ness. 



Page fifty-five 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember 



Never lay a razor down 
open; close it carefully with 
the finger and thumb at each 
side of the shank to keep the 
edge from striking the handle. 



Dry the customer's face 
well. You know how it feels 
to wash your face and let the 
wind dry it. Wipe dry, be- 
fore fanning. 




HANDLING TOWEL 

This movement in actual work at the chair is used noi 
only for drying every part of the face but for washing it as 
well, and the properly trained barber never picks up a 
towel for this use that he does not handle it in this manner. 
There is a nicety in handling linen that commands business, 
and it should be practiced until all movements become easy 
and graceful. It can be practiced with a handkerchief or 
*ny cloth of convenient size. 



I wish to caution you about applying 
powder, do not pat a customer's face but 
go over the face in a downward stroke, 
and after having been applied, wipe off all 
you can with the dry towel or with the 
hands. If the face has been left moist, 
the powder will show in white spots. This 
is one reason why careful drying is essen- 
tial. 

Now raise your chair with the customer 
to an upright position in the chair, ascer- 
tain what other work may be desired, and 



Page fifty-six 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




Things to Remember 



Tonic or even water can be 
so poorly applied to the scalp 
that it loses its effect. It must 
be carefully distributed 
through the hair and well 
rubbed in to be effective. 



EXERCISE NO. 8 

Hold the right hand directly in front of you with palm up, 
using the left hand to spread the center of the towel over the 
open palm. Now with the left hand, grasp firmly all of the lower 
folds of the towel and turn the fingers of the left hand toward 
the left, bringing them down underneath the left hand, raising 
the left hand as you turn, bringing the folds at the back of the 
right hand and at the same time turning the right hand over with 
back up. 

The folds of the towel are now held in the left hand at the 
back of the right hand. 

The towel is easily shifted in the hand as it takes up the moist- 
ure from the face by simply sliding it from the center of the 
towel slightly toward one or the other edges. 

This enables you to hold the; towel smoothly over the palm of 
the hand, thereby giving use of the entire palm of the hand with 
its naturally soothing effect. ' 

if no tonics or scalp treatments are to be 
given, consult your customer as to whether 
he desires the hair to be combed wet or dry. 
If wet, apply the moisture from the water 
bottle, a sufficient amount of water to be 
used to moisten all of the hair, not a part 
of it, for it must all be moistened if any. 
Apply it with the bottle held in the right 
hand and with the left hand rub the mois- 
ture through the hair using a rotary move- 
ment. 



The reward for good hair 
combing is like the reward for 
painting a good picture. The 
pleasure of looking at it. Ar- 
tistic temperament recognizes 
this. 



Page fifty-seven 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



// hair is to be combed dry, 
a touch of brilliantine sprayed 
over the brush, with an atom- 
iser before using will help hold 
the hair in place. 



A friendly greeting may put 
a customer at ease and sell you 
more goods. A kindly part- 
ing word will have much to do 
toward bringing him back. 



When you have a sufficient imount of 
water, set the bottle down on the work- 
stand, step directly back of the customer 
and rub the hair and scalp until the mois- 
ture is evenly distributed through the hair. 
Be careful that you have not an overabun- 
dance that will run from the hair onto the 
customer's garments. If you have noted, 
when your customer comes in, how his hair 
was combed, you will not need to ask him 
this when you are ready for the combing. 

If the hair is to be combed straight back, 
take your position back of the chair. Al- 
ways use the comb in the right hand and 
the brush in the left, lean the head back 
just a little by taking the two hands and 
place it where you want it, still not in an 
uncomfortable position for your customer, 
start your comb and brush from the front, 
using them alternately until you have re- 
moved all of the tangles from the hair, 
and smooth it out. 

If you are to part the hair, take your po- 
sition back of the chair and take your comb 
and throw the hair forward over the fore- 
head and then take your position on the 
side that your customer parts his hair and 
make the part with your comb, and be care- 
ful to make the part straight in itself and 
straight with the head. Then take your 
comb and simply throw the hair on the op- 
posite side out of the way until you are 
ready to step around the chair to comb 
in position. 

I wish to caution you to be sure and use 
the brush by coming down with the 
lower edge of the brush first. In this 



Page fifty-eight 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



way you are using the full width of the 
brush and will give a much smoother ef- 
fect. As you walk around the chair, 
you follow your comb with your brush. 
Also, avoid your brush coming in contact 
with the ear, as this is very annoying to 
your customer. 

You will note, you may comb the hair on 
this side down perfectly flat and smooth, 
or may roach it up in front to show the 
different effects. 

Careful combing is as important as care- 
ful shaving for no matter how good the 
shave may have been, if your customer 
is not turned out improved in appearance, 
he is not satisfied. 

If, at any time a customer steps into the 
shop, and you are not engaged, you attract 
his attention when you are through with 
your work and your chair is vacant by 
gently calling "next," or some movement 
that will signify you are ready to serve 
him. Avoid the loud, boisterous "next" 
that will have a tendency to scare him 
from the shop. 

If he is an old customer whose name 
you have had an opportunity, in the past, 
to learn, speak his name as he passes you or 
as he looks in your direction deciding upon 
the barber he will select. 

If he chooses another chair you may 
take your seat on the stool provided for 
you at the side of your workstand but 
never allow yourself to sit in the barber 
chair. This is one of the most unethical 
things a barber can do. 



Things to Remember 



To gracefully handle linen 
is high art. Get the swing of 
spreading the chair cloth and 
handling the tozvels. Often 
this is the part of your work 
that impresses the boss, and 
holds or loses your job. 



Your thoughts are detected 
in the touch of your finger- 
tips. Never wait upon the 
trade when in a bad humor. 



Page fifty-nine 



Lesson Four 

Subject 

HAIRCUTTING 



Pompadours 

"\^7E will divide our subjects of haircut- 
* * ting into two lessons, one the shorter 
trims and one the longer cuts. In this one 
I will give a Lesson on the longer cuts 
with their several variations. 

Haircutting is an art and the degree of 
perfection that you attain will depend 
quite largely upon your artistic taste. 

There is the same expression in the back 
of the head that you find in the face and 
the barber must use the same skill in form- 
ing his haircut that is displayed by the 
sculptor in molding a statue. A simple 
forming of a clay figure does not indicate 
art ; it is the expression of the features or 
the pose that gives it the artistic touch, 
and so it is with the haircut. The trim- 
ming of a little here and there, bringing 
out the proper formation or expression, is 
the real art of the work, and this must be 
studied as well as practiced. 

As clipper work is important with all 
haircuts, I give here an article on the use 
of clippers by courtesy of the Brown & 
Sharpe Mfg. Co. 



Page sixty 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



How to Use 



Clipp 



ers 



By A Head ^Barber 

[By courtesy of the Brown & Sbarpe Mfg. Co.l 
Providence, R. L, U. S. A. J 

DURING my twenty years or more of expe- 
rience as a barber I have had the oppor- 
tunity to observe a great many barbers at work; 
especially is this true in later years when, in the 
capacity of an employer of barbers, I have watched 
more keenly their methods and the completed 
work. In this time I do not recall ever having seen 
two barbers who work in exactly the same manner, 
each having his own method of cutting hair — a 
method which is peculiar to his own particular 
style. 

In the olden days a first-class job was accom- 
plished almost entirely with scissors, but since the 
introduction of hair clippers for cutting human 
hair the tendency has been gradually to use clip- 
pers more and more. We are now all acquainted 
with the present practice of using the clipper al- 
most entirely for trimming the back of the neck 
and the sides of the head. 

The early history of the hair clipper is interest- 
ing. As I understand it, about forty years ago, so 
the story goes, some boys in Providence, R. I., 
hit upon the novel idea of clipping their own hair 
with a pair of horse clippers to keep themselves 
cool. The experiment was a great success. Some 
wit called it "the pineapple clip" and it soon be- 
came the prevailing style for summer haircuts. 



Page sixty-one 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Of course barbers were not satisfied to use the 
heavy and awkward horse clippers that were oper- 
ated with two hands and as a result a smaller and 
easier-working model was developed especially for 
the barber's use. The neat, handy clipper that you 
can buy today at almost any hardware store is the 
ultimate result of the improvements which have 
been made in the old style horse clippers. 

As the use of clippers became more general, 
barbers quickly appreciated the time and labor 
saved in using them. Today clippers are an essen- 
tial part of the barber's equipment. 

Different Methods 

As I have previously said, I believe no two 
barbers cut hair in exactly the same way. Con- 
sequently there may be some barbers who would 
advise other methods than mine. But as the re- 
sult of my own practical experience I believe I am 
safe in offering the following general suggestions 
for the use of clippers. 

How To Hold the Clipper 

First of all I cannot emphasize too strongly the 
importance of holding the clipper properly because 
the balance of the clipper itself and the appear- 
ance of the finished job are largely dependent upon 
it. I f you will examine the handles you will see that 
one of them is stationary and that they differ 
slightly in shape. 

I suppose that they were so designed after a 
good deal of thought and experience in order to 
fit perfectly in the hand, and that is why I believe 
they should be held as illustrated in Fig. 1. Notice 
that the thumb is held flat along the handle and 
that the little "ear" comes just back of the first 
ioint. The handle runs back along the thumb, with 



Page sixty-two 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




Hold the clipper with a 

natural grip and use a 

full strode 



Fig. I 

its end well into the palm of the hand; thus, when 
the fingers operate the lever of the clipper, a good 
support is provided for the stationary handle. The 
lever should be operated by the fingers at approxi 
mately the first joint. Permitting the fingers to 
extend too far around the lever results in a 
cramped position that soon tires the hand. When 
properly held the clipper may be operated for a 
considerable length of time without fatigue and 
still maintain throughout a full stroke of the 
clipper blades. 

I have observed barbers holding clippers in 
many different ways and yet all follow out more 
or less the method outlined above. The most com- 
mon difference is the position of the thumb as some 
barbers have a tendency to crook it slightly about 
the ear on the handle. 

Use a Full Stroke 

The proper operation of the clipper depends to 
a great extent upon taking a full stroke. By taking 
a full stroke is meant that the operating lever 



Page sixty-three 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



should be pressed in to the limit and, when released, 
be permitted to return to its extreme position. You 
will notice that the upper plate has fewer teeth than 
the lower. Therefore it is necessary to take a full 
stroke so that the upper plate may travel the full 
width of the lower plate, allowing all the teeth to 
cut, otherwise all the teeth will not cut and the 
clipper will "pull." This, as you undoubtedly 
know from experience, is unpleasant and is usually 
due to the barber's carelessness. 

It is also very important to start operating the 
clipper with a full movement before entering the 
hair and to continue operating it until after it is 
out of the hair. I have acquired a little personal 
habit of operating the clipper when I take it from 
the cabinet. The few seconds it takes to walk from 
the cabinet to a working position beside my cus- 
tomers is sufficient to make sure that the clipper 
"feels" in good condition and that it is taking a 
full stroke before cutting the hair. If the opera- 
tion of the clipper is stopped while the plates are 
in the hair, or if the clipper is fed or pushed into 
the hair too fast for the speed at which the 
handles are operated, it will surely "pull." 

One of the difficult things for the beginner to 
learn is to feed the clipper into the hair steadily 
and at the right speed. Most barbers sprinkle a 
little talcum powder on the neck if the skin is 
moist, as it assists in obtaining a smooth and even 
"feed." 

Clipping and '"Tapering" 

I begin clipping at the back of the neck, yet I 
know that many barbers prefer to start on the 
sides of the head. In either case the results ob- 
tained are the same and this is a matter of per- 
sonal choice. With a No. 1 "Bressant" Brown & 



Page i'ucty-four 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



In starting to clip up the 
back °f the neck, the heel 
is raised slightly, being 
lowered gradually as the 
cut progresses 





Fig. 2 

Sharpe Clipper (and, by the way, I have used 
Brown & Sharpe Clippers exclusively for twenty 
years or more) I start to clip at the base of the 
neck as shown in Fig. 2 with the heel or the 
extreme back of the bottom plate of the clipper 
slightly raised, gradually lowering the heel as I 
clip upward. At the point where it is desired to 
begin to taper the hair, lift the front part of the 
clipper slightly from the neck by tilting the clipper 
so that it rests on the heel of the clipper, as illus- 
trated in Fig. 3. This tilting motion should be 
gradual and increase in proportion to the amount 




r< 



To taper, lift the 
front of the clipper 
slightly away from 
the neck., tilting the 
clipper so that it rests 
on the heel of th 
bottom plate 



Fi S . 3 



i'age sixty- five 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




Use the clipper this 
way when hair grows 
upward. Always run 
the clipper opposite 
to the way the hair 
grows 



Fig. 4 

of taper that is desired. Carry these upward 
strokes around the back of the neck from in back 
of one ear to the back of the other ear. This 
gives a very good finish to the back of the neck 
for all ordinary cuts. In doing a first-class job I 
usually change clippers, using a No. 00 "Bres- 
sant," repeating the same operations at the base 
of the neck to obtain a closer cut. This permits a 
little closer cut at the extreme base of the neck 
and gives the job a more finished appearance. 

If the hair on a person's neck grows upward 
instead of downward, you should clip down the 
neck, as shown in Fig. 4. Always run the clipper in 
the direction opposite to the growth of the hair. 

On the Sides 

In clipping the sides of the head, practically the 
same method is employed. In commencing the cut 
for trimming the side in front of the ears, first hold 
the clipper with the heel slightly raised as shown 
in Fig. 5. As the stroke progresses upward and a 
taper is desired, gradually lower the heel and lift 
the front of the clipper by tilting it oack in the 



Page sixty-six 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




The hair in front and 
above the ears is tapered 
in the same way as the 
back of the neck by grad- 
ually tilting the clipper 
back 



Fig. 5 

same way as in clipping the back of the neck. 
In trimming the sides around the back of the 
ear, hold the clipper in a slanting position as 
shown in Fig. 6. The taper is obtained by tipping 
the upper side of the clipper slightly outward — 
that is, the upper side of the clipper is tipped 
slightly away from the head and the lower side is 
held against the head at a point close to the ear. 
In cutting the hair directly above the ear some 
barbers hold the ear down and cut upwards from 
a point directly above the ear. Personally I prefer 
to cut from the front, going back as far as possible, 



To clip aboce the 
ears, cut from the 
front as far back as 
possible and then cut 
forward from back °f 
the ear as shown 




Fig. 6 



Page sixty-seven 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



/%» • 



JY- 




Often a comb is used 
to obtain the taper. 
The clipper is held 
flat against the comb 
which is tipped 
slightly outward as 
the cut progresses 



Fig. 7 



To obtain a taper on the 
sides and above the cars, 
a comb can be used in a 
manner similar to that 
shown in Fig. 7 




Fig. 8 




A good taper is also 
obtained in this way: 
Place the index fingel 
beneath the heel, us- 
ing finger as fulcrum 
o tip clipper as the 
cut progresses 



Fig. 9 



Page sixty-eight 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



and from the back going forward as far front as 
possible, keeping the clipper tilted as previously 
explained. I consider this is much the easiest 
method to obtain the desired taper of the hair on 
the sides of the head. 

Methods of Tapering 

The beginner may find some difficulty in taper- 
ing a haircut smoothly and evenly. Barbers use 
various methods to do this properly; the two most 
common are to use a comb or the index finger of 
the other hand. Figs. 7 and 8 show the clipper in 
use with the comb on the back and sides of the 
head. Holding the clipper plate flat against the 
comb and tilting the comb slightly outward at the 
top as the cut progresses upward will result in a 
very good taper. The second method is well illus- 
trated in Fig. 9. The point of the index finger is 
held under the heel of the bottom plate, and as 
the cut progresses upward the finger is retained 
under the heel and the clipper is tipped outward 
at the cutting edge, using the finger as a fulcrum. 
In cutting very thick hair this method eliminates 
any tendency of the cut hair to roll up and inter- 
fere with the action of the clipper. 

The finger at the heel of the bottom plate also 
serves admirably to help advance the clipper 
smoothly. 

By pushing the clipper ahead with the finger 
at the heel, a steady, regular feed can be accom- 
plished without "jumping" the clipper, especially 
if the skin is moist or sticky. 

After finishing the taper, the result can be in- 
spected by standing aside and looking at the out- 
line of the head. The taper can be noted in this 
way and any roughness or "steps" observed and 
corrected. 



Page sixty-nine 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



To get a very dose cut <,< 
trimming up the back °f 
the neck,, the heel of the 
clipper is held slightly 
away from the neck 




Fig. 10 



Bobs and 'Dutch Cuts 

In recent years, with the style of bobbing girls' 
hair prevailing, I have always made use of the 
clipper in trimming up the back of the neck as 
shown in Fig. 10. This makes it possible to trim 
the hair very close as far up as the bob, and gives 
the job a very neat and finished appearance. The 
same is true in the case of a Dutch cut, as illus- 
trated in Fig. 11. 




With the Dutch cut. 
use the same method 
shown in Fig. 10 to 
trim the back, of the 
neck closely 



Fig. 1 1 



Page seventy 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



THE method of using clippers as outlined is that 
generally employed by professional barbers. 
You will notice that I have mentioned using two 
sizes of hair clippers, as this is the common practice 
of barbers who want to do a quick job. For home 
use, however, satisfactory results can be obtained 
by using an intermediate size of clipper, such 
as the No. Brown & Sharpe "Bressant" model. 

The style of haircut determines to what extent 
the clipper can be used. For the average haircut 
it is used only in trimming the back and sides of 
the head as I have explained. Cutting or trim- 
ming the hair on the top of the head is usually 
done with the scissors, although some barbers 
claim that they can do a first-class job using the 
clipper only. 

Cutting the hair with hair clippers is an opera- 
tion that requires but little practice. The average 
person can very soon learn to operate a clipper 
sufficiently well to do a neat job of trimming the 
back of the neck or sides of the head between 
trips to the barber. 

Several of my customers keep a clipper at their 
summer home or include one in their vacation out- 
fit, as they like to keep their hair trimmed neatly 
for appearance and fairly short because it is so 
much cooler. Anyone who has a family of boys 
and girls will find a clipper especially useful. 

As a last suggestion, I would like to emphasize 
three things : Hold the clipper right, keep it oper- 
ating a full stroke, and always cut in the op- 
posite direction to that in which the hair 
grows. 



Page seventy-one 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



To allow a haircloth to come 
n direct contact with the cus- 
omer's neck is not sanitary 
inless a clean one is used, for 
•ach customer. State laws 
equire protectors. 



In this lesson here we omit the instruc- 
tion given in another lesson on the bar- 
ber's position at the chair. You will 
get that at another time, so we will pro- 
ceed by seating our customer, spreading 
the hair cloth from the front, and by plac- 
ing the protecting towel around the neck 
before bringing the hair cloth in contact 
with the customer. 




Using prepared tissue for haircloth protector 



Protection strips are less ex- 
pensive than laundry work, 
md used with less effort than 
i towel. 



If a towel is used for this purpose, it 
should be the face towel, and one side, the 
long way of the towel, tucked carefully 
under the neck band from the back toward 
the front on each side, then the balance of 
the towel raise and fold around the neck 
from the back and held in place under the 
chin with the left hand. Now bring the 
hair cloth up to the towel and with both 
hands hold it close to the towel. Pin at the 
back of the neck and fold the part of the 
towel that protrudes above the hair cloth 
down over the hair cloth, making a neat 
protection that in addition to protecting 



Page seventy-two 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



the hair cloth prevents the cut hair from 
working down the neck. 

If a cotton strip or a prepared paper pro- 
tector is used the hair cloth is pinned over 
it in the same manner and the edges folded 
down as is the towel. 

Now sift a little talcum powder from 
your neck duster around the neck to pre- 
vent the cut hair from sticking. Now use 
your brush and comb to straighten the hair 
and put in its proper position to be cut. 

After having given the proper 
study, and frequently it requires your step- 
ping back from the chair a distance to bet- 
ter observe the lines, you are ready for the 
actual work. 

Generally the clipper is used on the 
lower part of the neck with all haircuts, 
but not elsewhere for the long trims. 

Start at the lower growth of the hair 
on the left side and clip up to the point at 
which you want to leave off, then gradually 
bring the blades out from the hair as you 
continue to cut, thereby making a gradual 
taper at the clipping line. 

After completing with the clipper you 
now use your shears and comb. The shear 
should be so held in the right hand with 
the points nearly toward you, as illus- 
trated, and the comb held in the left hand 
parallel with the blade of the shear, which 
enables you to cut rather at one side in- 
stead of directly in front, and it enables 
you to get at the work more easily. 

If you were cutting directly in front of 
yourself, there are many places in the trim 



Things to Remember 



Many barbers maintain the 
part need not be combed from 
the hair before cutting, but the 
writer's experience and advise 
is to the contrary. 



With the prevailing styles, 
little clipper zvork is required. 
Hand made haircuts take the 
lead at present. 



Page seventy-three 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember ^^i) 



Handling the shear and 
comb properly seems to be an 
awkward position, but the bar- 
ber must learn not to cut di- 
rectly in front of himself, or 
he will grow round shouldered 
in the service. 



A shear and comb artist has 
the same opportunity to display 
skill as does the sculptor or 
painter; therefore acquire skill 
and become famous. 




EXERCISE NO. 7 

Hold shear in the right hand with the third finger in the 
ferrule and the little finger resting on the short lip that is made 
for it. 

The first and second fingers are to be bent over the handle 
of the shears in such a manner that it will hold it firmly in 
the hand. The ferrule should never be allowed to pass be- 
yond the second joint of the finger. The thumb in the 
other ferrule never allowed to pass the first joint. 

that would require you to stoop very low to 
get the proper vision and to handle the in- 
struments. Acquire this habit first of all, 
as it will save you much time in becoming 
a professional hair-cutter. 

Start your shear and comb work on the 
right side at the lower edge just in front 
of the ear, cutting only a little at a time, 
and as you continue to cut up, gradually 
run out of the hair by turning the teeth 
out each cut, generally leaving off about 
the hat-band line. The comb must be so 
held that it can be easily turned in the hand 
to comb up while cutting and down 
through the hair to straighten it. 



Page seventy-four 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



If while cutting up through the hair it 
tangles or folds under, bring the blade of 
the shear underneath the comb to hold the 
hair straight and comb up through the hair 
so that it will fall straight over the blade of 
the shear, then bring the comb underneath 
the shear again in place for the next cut. 

I wish to caution you here in the man- 
ner of using your shears. Always use the 
full length of the blade by starting at the 
end of the comb, with the heel of the shear, 
and close them quickly, which will give a 
smooth cut. 

Continue around, changing the position 
of the shears and comb back of the ear 
from a parallel line to about a 45 degree 
angle back of the ear. 

As you cut back of the ear, you are to 
change the angle of the shears and comb 
as you did on the other side back of the 
ear, to avoid cutting a bare spot as you 
would if you were to hold the shears and 
comb horizontally. 

This is necessary on account of the 
change in direction of the growth of the 
hair back of the ear. Use the same care 
as you work over the ear and around in 
front of it, that you did on the other side, 
and keep the length of the hair on both 
sides as nearly the same as possible. 

There will be a pronounced ridge at the 
point where you left off with the shears 
and comb. This will be reduced by cut- 
ting over the fingers. It is known as the 
finger work. 



Things to Remember 



The hair line has more to do 
with the expression of a hair- 
cut than any other one thing. 
Draw graceful lines. 



The gradual taper from the 
short hair to the lower edge 
to the longer hair at the crown 
is the most shapely. Avoid 
abrupt edges. 



Page seventy-five 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember 



Styles are elastic. They ad- 
mit of many variations in 
length, outlines, and tapers. It 
is the artistic hair cutter zvho 
builds them to fit. 




Trimming long pompa- 
dour. Shear and comb 
in right hand, bringing 
hair in position for 
fingers of left hand 



The pompadour is trimmed by taking 
your position at the side of your customer, 
start your work back of the ear at the 
ridge and work from you, combing the 
hair up through the fingers, trimming it 
lightly, and work around to the other side 
of the head back of the other ear. 



Good judgment in laying 
out styles is as important as 
the actual cutting. 



Shear in right hand. 
Comb transferred to left. 
Fingers holding hair for 
cut, point of shears out. 
to increase length of 
hair going up 




Page seventy-six 




THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

Things to Remember 



Trimming ends of long 
pompadour combed for- 
ward, working from right 
to left. Only alight trim 
required 



Now start at the point where you have 
just left off and come back just the oppo- 
site direction from the way you have cut, 
cutting over the fingers in the same man- 
ner, working back and forth in this way 
cutting a little at a time until you have re- 
duced the ridge, and if the entire top and 
front is to be shortened, continue to work 
in this manner back and forward until you 
have gone over the entire surface, finishing 
with the longer hair at the forehead. 

If the long hair on top is not to be cut, 
you can use what is known as the reducing 
cut on the side of the head by combing all 
of the hair over to one side, picking up the 
ends with the comb the same as cutting 
over the comb, trimming the ends lightly. 
Comb the hair back in place and if the 
ridge still shows, repeat until the hair will 
lay smooth at the sides as it is combed 
back. Treat both sides alike. 

When you have completed the cutting, 
use your neck duster quite briskly in brush- 



The more times over the 
same surface, not only spoils 
the original design in mind but 
adds that many more nicks. 



To get proportion is more 
important than smoothing the 
surface. 



Page seventy-seven 



THE BARBERS* MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



Careless emptying of a hair- 
cloth disturbs waiting patrons 
and appearance of the shop. 



In most foreign countries 
barbers do not shave the neck. 
Why isn't this good practice ? 
Only the primitive Chinaman 
shaved the scalp. Who wants 
to be primitive? 



ing the cut ends of the hair from the head 
and especially around the neck. 

Empty the hair from the hair cloth by 
picking it up from the lower end, bringing 
it up to the upper edge, pick it carefully 
off the customer in order that the hair does 
not drop onto the garments, turn from 
your customer, drop the top edge of your 
hair cloth, holding to the lower end, and 
shake well to remove all of the cut hair. 
Now spread it again as before, bringing 
the hair cloth close up to the neck band, 
but do not bring it in contact with the cus- 
tomer's neck, and use the towel that you 
have had in use around the neck to tuck 
in over the hair cloth at the back of the 
neck. This is to protect the customer's 
garments while combing and shaving the 
neck. 

Now use fresh lather around the hair 
line over the ears and down the back of the 
neck. Whether or not the neck is to be 
shaved clear around, it is best to lather the 
neck to avoid showing a high water mark 
on the sides where you have put the lather. 
Rub the sides a little to prepare them for 
the shave. 

Strop your razor a little before shaving 
the neck. It will not need as much strop- 
ping as would be required for the face 
shave, for the hair on the neck is easier 
shaved. 

Now shave the neck, starting in front on 
the right side, make the outline true and 
even and work carefully around the ear to 
the point where the shear has indicated the 
line, at the same time combing the hair to- 



Page seventy-eight 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

Things to Remember 



Careless combing is unfor- 
givable; it is even more im- 
portant than cutting. 




ibing long pompadour 
with comb and hand. 
Gives smooth, glossy 
effect. 



ward the line. The free hand stroke will 
be used for the riglrhand side, but the back 
hand stroke will be used on the left side in 
front, and the double back hand, back of 
the ear. 

This is the only place a double back hand 
stroke is used with the razor. 

For the long pompadour we comb 
straight back, and you may do this by 
standing directly back of your customer, 
first using the brush and comb alternately. 

After you have straightened the hair on 
the top and sides, untangling it all, laying 
it in its proper place, lay your hairbrush 
down and with the comb follow through 
the hair from the front to the back with 
the hand instead of the brush. This will 
give a smooth and more finished appear- 
ance and is pleasing to your customer. 



IV ill it be an artistic finish 
or yours, with this customer ? 



Page seventy^nmc 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember 



Because a certain style is be- 
coming in one instance, do not 
use it in all. Learn to deviate. Fuii round effect in 
Increase your stock in trade JS '»*', "poTpadour 

bv 7jarictV front and short burnsides. 




Many barbers would be 
good haircuttcrs if they did 
not so often run out of hair. 



If the shape of the head seems to be 
rather long and narrow, it will be your at- 
tempt to broaden the appearance by leav- 
ing a sufficient amount of hair on the sides 
of the head to fill out and overcome the 
narrowness, at the same time combing the 
top of the hair rather flat, which helps 
broaden the appearance of the features. 

If a head seems to be rather flat in the 
back and wide, a sufficient amount of hair 
should be left at the back of the head to 
fill out and give the head a longer appear- 
ance. If the head seems to be rather flat 
and wide on top, you must try to leave 
enough hair on top so that it may be loosely 
combed back from the forehead or roached 
up in a manner that will overcome the flat- 
ness, and if a head seems to be round like 
a ball an attempt should be made to so 
draw your lines that it will give it a longer 
effect. 



Page eighty 



Side vteu\ short pompa- 
dour shaved straight. 
Clippers slightly used on 
sides and lower neck. 
Avoid a ridge by cutting 
over comb with teeth 
turned out 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

Things to Remember 



Cutting to overcome defects 
is a part of the barber's work. 
A trained eye detects defects 
at a glance. 




MEDIUM POMPADOUR 

This style is very popular, as is also the 
longer pompadour, and differs only as fol- 
lows: 

Use the clipper just at the very lower 
edge entirely around, and gradually taper 
with the shears and the comb from the clip- 
per line, finishing the haircut as described 
for the long pompadour. 

The combing of the long pompadour, in 
fact, the combing of any haircut — where 
a sufficient amount of hair has been left to 
permit of nice combing — is as important 
as the actual cutting, and this will prove 
your worth as a tactfully skillful barber. 



A haircut, to be most becom- 
ing, like a suit of clothes, must 
be built to order. 



Page eighty-one 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember 



The, time was when the bar- 
ber who could cut the best 
pompadour was most in de- 
mand, but there is not much 
demand these days. 



More time is necessary to 
trim a perfect short pompa- 
dour than any other style. 




Trimming short pompadour. Position in front 



In cutting a short pompadour, if you 
have trouble in keeping the hair on end, 
you must use hair dressing, or even a 
stick of mustache wax, applied by run- 
ning the wax back and forth through the 
hair over the comb. The wax holds the 
hair in place while you make your form. 

You take your position for this work 
on the left side of the chair and turn your 
customer's head slightly toward you and 
start your work at the forehead in the cen- 
ter, getting the length you desire, and cut 
straight back over the comb until you reach 
the crown, gradually running shorter as 
you comb back. You will notice you are 
combing and cutting from you in making 
your form through the center. 

The pompadour should have a flat ap- 
pearance across the top unless the head is 
unusually broad, so you must be careful 
about trimming the sides too close. Trim 



Page eighty-Hvo 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

WMllilMMtHi/j. Things to Remember 



Front view showing flat 

square effect, the style 

required by exacting 

young men 




a little from the cut you have made, first 
on one side and then on the other to get the 
proper shape, and after you have it formed 
as illustrated, continue to cut lightly over 
the top to give it a softer and more velvety 
appearance. 



The porcupine effect of a 
short pompadour probably 
quilled it. 









Side view shows straight 
line effect from front to 
crown, gradualaly taper- 
ing to shorter hair at 
crown. Clipper line 

carefully trimmed away. 



An exact eye measurement 
is required for perfect pom- 
padour work. 



Page eighty-three 



Lesson 



Five 



Subject 

HAIRCUTTING 



Things to Remember 

Cutting over the fingers en- 
ables the barber to get his 
measurements. Going over the 
surface must be done system- 
atically, not promiscuously. 



The fault zvith most barbers 
in cutting a trim is in taking 
too much off. 



Trims 

Trims vary in length according to the 
customer's wishes and that they may be 
better classified, we will call them long, me- 
dium and short trims, each cut by the same 
general rules or principles, the only differ- 
ence being the length of the cut. 

You will start the work at the lower 
edge, using the clipper just on the back of 
the neck if your customer prefers, or en- 
tirely around the lower part of the haircut, 
starting just in front of the ear on the 
right side, working around the lower 
growth of the hair to the opposite side, ob- 
serving the instructions regarding the clip- 
per that is given in the preceding article on 
clippers. Always be careful about using 
the clippers too high. The tendency is to 
do too much clipper work. 

You will now start with the shears and 
comb cutting from the edge you left with 
the clippers, up through the hair, cutting 
close to the clipper line or scalp at first 
and gradually running out of the hair from 
two to three inches above the clipper line. 



Fcrge eighty-four 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

Things to Remember 



Cutting side over finger. 
Comb and shear in 
same hand. Comb just 
releasing hair shown in 
fingers 




All haircuts must be propor- 
tioned. The trim, most exact- 
ing of all cuts in this regard. 



This is called the shear and comb work. 
When you have trimmed away the clipper 
line around the entire head you are ready 
for the part of the work called cutting 



over the fingers. 



Right side cutting over 
fingers. Position back of 
customer, just the reverse 
from left side. Both 
right and left sides cut 
from front to center of 
head in back 




Baldness, scalp scars and 
defects may interfere with the 
general rule of Jiaircutting. 
Good judgment must be dis- 
played in these cases. 



Page eighty-five 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember 



Allowances must be made 
for age, profession, counten- 
ance, etc. Study conditions. 



A carefully made outline is 
like striping a painted job. It 
gives the expression. 




Left side, cutting over 
fingers. Comb trans- 
furred from right to left 
hand before making cut. 
Position, facing customer 



Make your start at the ridge you have 
left with the shears and comb, starting on 
the right side, working around the direc- 
tion as illustrated for cut No. 1. You 
will work from front back to the center of 
the head in the back, then step around your 
chair and cut the opposite side just the 
same, working back with the second No. 1, 
just as you did the first one, then take No. 
2, which is a cut just a little higher. Cut 
first one side and then the other, then fol- 
low by No. 3 and No. 4. 

This covers the entire surface, but you 
must remember each cut, No. 1, 2, 3 and 
4, is left a little longer than the one below 
it so that the longest hair will be on the top 
of the head. 

There are variations from this rule ac- 
cording to the length of the hair, the size 
of the head, etc., but generally this is a 
very good rule to be guided by in all long 
or medium trims. Always avoid cutting 
it short directly over the crown. 



Page eighty-six 




THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

Things to Remember 



Diagram of the cuts 
from one to four, show- 
ing position or direction 
of fingers for each cut. 



The diagram above is intended to make 
the work more plain, but a good deal of 
practice will be necessary to enable you to 
acquire the positions for the several cuts. 

As there is no diagram of exercises for 
this cut, about all that you can do for your 
benefit before actually doing the work will 
be to get your hands and wrists limbered 
and in condition to take the position easily. 

Your position at the chair cutting the 
left side will be rather at the side in front 
of your customer, working from the front 
back, where your position for cutting the 
right side will be back of your customer, 
cutting from the front back or toward you, 
each time going to the center of the head 
in the back. 

When you have reached the top of the 
head for No. 4, your fingers will be hori- 
zontal, one side of the top of the head, No. 
4, should match with the other side, No. 4, 
and it is well to make an extra cut or a 
proof of your work by combing straight 
back over the top in the center of the head 
to see that both sides are cut evenly. 



In cutting over the fingers, 
they may be bent. The shape 
of the head and a slight curve 
given to each cut, with the 
shear blades to make a smooth- 
er job or a nicer fit. 



A barber cannot judge all of 
his work at close range. He 
should step back frequently to 
get a better view of the work. 



Page eighty-seven 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember 



Many barbers disagree zvith 
the instructions given here for 
front outline, but there will be 
no mistake if this rule is fol- 
lowed. 




Front outline. Heel o/ 

shear at temple, point 

near eyebrow. Left sidt 

illustrated 



After completing- the cut, you may make 
your front outline by combing all of the 
hair over on one side and trimming it just 
lightly at the edge, then comb it all over 
to the other side of the head and trim it 
lightly as shown in the illustrations. 



A final touch may be given 
to the haircut zvith the shears 
and comb after combing the 
hair, but very little should be 
necessary. 



Front outlines. Varied 

in height according to 

length of hair. Right 

side illustrated 




Page eighty-eight 






THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




When work is properly done, front hair combs to a "V" 

When it is combed down straight over 
the forehead, if the work is properly done, 
it will form a perfect "V." You may now 
trim the outlines back and over the ear as 
illustrated, making an even distinctive edge 
that gives the nicer finish to your haircut. 



Things to Remember 



If each front outline is 
trimmed while the hair is part- 
ed, and one side higher than 
the other, difficulty will arise 
the next time the hair is part- 
ed. Long, ragged edges will 
comb over the short ends. 



Making feather edge 
back outline and around 
ear. Blade of shear 
must follow the outline 
cut by points. Comb 
holds hair ends at out- 
line. Thumb of left 
hand holds ear out of 
the way 




Unless the feather edge out- 
line is combed tozvard the edge, 
there will be an irregidar out- 
line when the work is com- 
pleted, that is difficult to over- 
come and is unsightly. 



Page eighty-nine 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember 



Salesmanship is a much 
abused word. True salesman- 
ship works best, if you are sold 
on what you are trying to sell. 




Side view, short trim 
shaved neck, short burn- 
sides, side part combed 
up 



Back view, short trim 

with shaved neck. Styles 

now point to very little 

neck shaving 




Customers do not want to 
be annoyed but are susceptible 
to suggestions. Have you a 
"good number" to offer? 



Back view, medium trim. 
Neck may be shaved at 
dotted line, if required- 
Center part combed 
down and back 




Page nmetv 



Lesson 



Six 



Subject 

HAIRCUTTING 



Half Crown 

You have learned to handle your clipper 
in the exercises and preparatory training, 
so we will start by learning just how high 
we are to use the clipper for the half crown. 

The clippers should be run about as high 
as the hatband line clear around the head, 



Things to Remember 



The difficult part is erasing 
the clipper line. This re- 
quires careful shear and comb 
work. 




Using clipper for half crown 



A shorter taper is necessary 
zvhere clippers have been used 
around the lower edge of the 
haircut. 



Page ninety-one 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



The mind's eye is the bar- 
ber's blue print, and like all 
blue prints is expensive to al- 
ter after the plans are laid. 



Until the fingers become ac- 
customed to the shear ferrule 
there will be a desire to use 
rubber shear pads, but the ex- 
perienced barber has learned 
they are only a handicap. 



although frequently the line is left a little 
lower for the style we will call the long 
half crown. 

You will note that a long half crown 
differs only slightly from a short trim, but 
we so name them that you will be able to 
better classify styles. 

If a medium or a short half crown is 
to be cut, you would, of course, cut the 
hair on the top and sides proportionately 
longer or shorter. 

Clip clear around, being cautious to run 
the clipper out of the hair at the lower edge 
to taper it gradually. This saves work 
with the shears and comb. 

After having completed the clipper work 
start with the shears and comb at the tem- 
ple on the right side, cutting away the ab- 
rupt edge and tapering it with the short 
hair left by the clippers into the longer hair 
at the edge of the line. 

In doing the shear work, you will note 
the shears and comb must be handled in a 
manner that will enable you to work more 
at one side of the work rather than directly 
in front of it. This avoids stooping to an 
awkward position in parts of the work that 
will be difficult to get at if you were cut- 
ting directly in front of yourself. 

The cutting out of this clipper line is the 
most difficult part of this haircut, for if 
the pronounced ridge shows where the clip- 
per left off, the haircut has the apearance 
of a wig placed on the head, and this you 
must overcome by carefully trimming 
away the lines. This is accomplished by 
using the fine end of your comb at the Clip- 



Pa^ ninety-two 




THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

Things to Remember 



A wig effect must be guard- 
ed against in all half and full 
crown cuts. It is overcome 
by a carefully trimmed clipper 
line. 



Shears and comb for half crown 

per line, running up and out of the hair as 
you cut. If the hair tangles underneath 
the comb, or folds under, place the blade 
of your shear underneath your comb, 
straightening the tangled ends before 
making the cut. 

Always be careful to turn the teeth of 
the comb outward, as this will allow the 
hair to fall into the teeth of your comb, and 
pull your comb out of the hair sufficiently 




This illustration would indi- 
cate a quantity of hair being 
removed at one cut. Note the 
error and remove but a little 
each cut. 



reducing cut for side of half crown 



Page ninety-three 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember 



This cut would indicate the 
finger work is being done be- 
fore the clipper line is cut 
away. Note the error and trim 
the clipper line first. 



A careful study of style is 
essential in all haircutting, and 
there is to be the same careful 
gauging of length in crozvns 
and half crowns as there is in 
trims. 




Cutting over fingers, half crown 



to enable you to work with your shears 
close to your comb. 

Work around, keeping the taper the 
same in the back and on both sides. When 
completed, start cutting over the ringers, 
starting just a little above the temple on 
the right side and work back to the crown. 
Always avoid cutting it short directly over 
the crown. 

You will note we illustrate and de- 
scribe this finger work for the longer 
trims, as cuts No. 1, 2, 3 and 4, but with 
the half crown we will eliminate No. 1, 
taking No. 2 at the side of the head just 
where you have left off with the shears 
and comb starting at the temple on the 
right side in front and work back to the 
center of the head in the back. This re- 
quires about six to eight cuts. 



Page ninety-four 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



You now step around to the other side 
of your chair, starting at the temple in 
front cutting No. 2 back to the center of 
the head, just opposite on the No. 2 on the 
other side that we have just finished. 

Now No. 3 which is just a little higher, 
working from the front back to the crown, 
usually from five to six cuts. 

Next, No. 3 on the opposite side, being 
careful to get both sides the same length. 

Now you use No. 4, which is directly on 
the top of the head on one side, cutting 
back from the forehead to the crown, each 
cut a little shorter than the last one, about 
four to five cuts in all. Now No. 4 on the 
other side is made on top, cut in the same 
manner about the same number of cuts, 
that both sides will be alike. 

You have now gone over the entire sur- 
face and are ready to make your front out- 
line. You will do this by combing all of 
the hair over to one side and make your 
outline about the height of the clipper line 
on the side and about parallel with it, al- 
though this will vary according to the 
length of hair your customer desires for 
the half crown. 

Now step around to the opposite side 
and comb all of the hair over on the oppo- 
site side, leaving no part, and trim the 
front outline on the other side in the same 
manner and the same length. 

After this is done, if the hair is combed 
down over the forehead, it will be a per- 
fect "V" shape. 



Things to Remember 



No set rule will make an 
artistic haircut. It is only a 
foundation upon which to 
build. The finish is a matter 
of good taste. 



Seasons of the year govern 
styles. A full or half crown 
is a summer haircut. 



Page ninety-five 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Have you ever sat in a bar- 
ber shop and been sprayed by 
the sprinkle of cut hair from 
the haircloth? If you have, 
you won't do it to others. 



If a customer desires the 
freedom of his arms above the 
chaircloth, so adjust it that he 
may feel free and at ease. 



You will now use your neck duster with 
a little powder sifted into it, if it is not a 
fountain neck duster, carefully brushing 
the cut ends of the hair from around the 
protecting towel, brushing the hair quite 
vigorously to remove all of the cut ends, 
and lightly brushing over the face to re- 
move the ends that may have lodged there, 
and which are always disagreeable. 

Now remove the haircloth by brushing 
and lifting one side at a time, then remove 
the protecting towel, carefully dusting the 
cut ends of the hair as it is removed. Now 
pick up the lower end of the haircloth, 
bring it up to the upper edge and carefully 
lift it off your customer, being careful not 
to drop the cut hair on the customer's gar- 
ments. 

You will now cover your customer again 
with the haircloth by spreading it from the 
front, being careful not to let the haircloth 
come in direct contact with your customer, 
and cover it from the back with the towel 
you have used as a protector, tucking in 
the edge of the towel, as you did previ- 
ously. This protects the garments while 
shaving the neck and combing the hair. 

We will now shave the neck and you will 
use fresh lather to apply to the sides, over 
the ears, and down the sides, and you will 
lather clear around even though the neck 
is not going to be shaved across the back. 
We apply the lather in this way as it con- 
stitutes better barbering. 

For shaving the neck you will strop 
your razor but slightly as the growth of 
hair is not as heavy on the neck as on the 



Page ninety-si: 




THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

Things to Remember 



Back view oj low, full 
crown or short trim, a 
compromise between the 
two. Illustration shows 
too pronounced clipper 
outline, result of 00 
clipper work 



Side view shows effect 

o / same exaggerated 

style, too abrupt taper; 

very dressy otherwise 




The reason a half crown cut 
is difficult is that there is so 
little chance to display real 
taste. 



face. Start on the right side, using the 
free hand stroke, generally making your 
outline straight back from the point of the 
eye, running into a graceful curve over the 
ear, just at the hairline, or the outline may 
be lower on the side in front of the ear, 
according to your customer's wishes. 
Shave straight down the back at the hair 
line, being careful that your line is drawn 
so that it will be the most becoming to the 
customer. There are variations here that 
only practice and study will enable you to 
accomplish. 



// the hair on the crown of 
the head is inclined to stand 
up when cut for a half crown, 
the use of hair dressing may 
be necessary to make it lay 
smooth. 



Page ninety-seven 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



You have seen barbers wipe 
the lather from their razor 
blades onto their hands; a re- 
pulsive operation. Don't get 
that habit. 



Sometimes a part is straight 
in itself, but not straight with 
the head; and sometimes it is 
straight with the head but 
crooked in itself. It must be 
straight in itself and with the 
head. 



Now step to the other side of your cus- 
tomer and, with the back hand stroke, 
make your outline on the opposite side just 
the same height and as near the same 
shape as you did the other, making a grace- 
ful curve over the ear at the hairline, but 
we change to the double back hand stroke, 
to shave back of the ear. This is the only 
place the double back hand stroke is used. 

Now wash the lather from the neck with 
a hot towel, and dry with a dry towel. The 
same care must be given in drying the neck 
as in drying the face after shaving. 

To comb the hair, moisten as you would 
for a tonic, thoroughly moistening and 
thoroughly rubbing the moisture through 
the hair. Replace the water bottle on the 
stand. Now step back of your customer 
and give a few light massage movements 
to thoroughly distribute the moisture. 

Now take your position back of the chair 
with your comb in the right hand and 
brush in the left, take your comb and 
throw the hair forward over the forehead, 
and then take your position on the side 
that your customer parts his hair and make 
the part with your comb and be careful 
to make the part straight in itself and 
straight with the head, then take your 
comb and simply throw the hair on the 
opposite side, out of the way, until you 
are ready to step around the chair to comb 
in position. As you walk around the chair 
you follow your comb with your brush. 
And, also, avoid your brush coming in con- 
tact with the ear as this is very annoying 
to your customer. 



Page ninety-eight 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




Side view finished half 
crown. Hair roached up 



Back view finished half crown 



You will note, you may comb the hair 
on this side down perfectly flat and 
smooth, or may roach it up in front to 
show the different effects. 

Now step around to the opposite side, 
brush and comb the hair smooth, and now 
comb the hair down perfectly smooth and 
observe the effect. Then again comb it up 
to get just the right artistic touch to the 
work. 

This completes the half crown, and I 
want you to note, it is only a few degrees 
removed from a close trim. 



Things to Remember 



There are as many ways of 
combing the same head of hair 
as there are ways of cutting 
each. Learn the most becom- 
ing styles and comb becom- 
ingly. 



Have you ever had a barber 
comb your hair to feel as well 
as you comb it yourself? If 
you can do this for your cus- 
tomer, he will come a long 
way to patronize you. 



Page ninety-nine 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



Boys in summer time enjoy 
this cut. Mothers like it for 
their children os it requires 
little combing. 



Full Crown 

We will now change this style to the 
full crown cut. 

By again using the clipper, this time to 
the temple, leaving your outline from one 
to two inches higher than for the half 
crown. This brings the line about to the 
crown in the back of the head, and leaves 
this portion horse-shoe shape on top of the 
head. You will use the same care and skill 
in running the clippers out of the hair at 
the line, that you have been cautioned 
about using for other cuts. 

You can make your work much easier 
if you use your clipper, starting at the tem- 
ple with one side of the clipper blade up, 
working back and around to the crown. 
This so tapers the line that it makes your 
shear and comb-work much easier. 



The barber names the full 
crown the "money maker." It 
is short in length and time. 




Using clipper for full crown 



Page one hundred 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Frequently there is a curl on the back 
of the neck and the clipper must be turned 
in different directions to cut it properly. 
This is also true in cutting well up on the 
sides of the head where the grain of the 
hair changes. 

You are now ready to cut over the comb 
with your shears, and the shear and comb 
work must be carefully done at the edge 
where the clipper has left off. Take your 
position at the side of your customer and 
start on the right side of the temple, cut- 
ting back to the crown. 

You will note this is quite similar to the 
cutting of the half crown at the edge, but 
as the grain of the hair changes toward 
the crown, you must change the angle of 
your shears and comb accordingly, to cut 
against the grain. Trimming the outline 
is the biggest part of this haircut. As 
you note, there is little shear work to be 
done. The full crown is the easiest hair- 
cut that we have and requires the least 
work. It, however, is not adaptable to men 



Things to Remember 



A good clipper worker can 
do most of this cut with the 
machine, especially the elec- 
tric. Boys dnjoy the electric 
clipper more than grown ups. 




Be careful of the side out- 
lines on the full crozvn. You 
frequently cut into the growth 
of the hair instead of the out- 
line. 



Cutting over comb full crown 



Page one hundred one 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



It is better to leave a pro- 
nounced clipper line than to 
cut nicks trying to get it out. 
Strike the happy medium by 
trimming smoothly and not 
overdo. 



A full crozvn may be roached 
or combed flat. Judge the 
style from the countenance. 



of all ages. It is generally preferred for 
little boys or for laboring men who do not 
care to have the abundance of hair on their 
head to keep clean. 

After both sides have been trimmed, 
comb the hair up between the ringers, 
working from the front back, cutting over 
the fingers instead of the comb. 

You will note, with the other cuts we 
use cuts No. 1, 2, 3 and 4, but with the full 
crown cut, we will need only No. 3 and 
No. 4, or perhaps if it is a short crown cut, 
you will need only No. 4, starting from the 
front to the angle and position of No. 3, 
cutting back to the crown over the fingers, 
each cut a little shorter than the last, usu- 
ally four to five cuts. 

Now trim the opposite side in the same 
manner over the fingers from the front 
back, giving about the same number of 
cuts. Now you have No. 4 on one side of 
the head from three to four cuts and No. 
4 again on the other side of the top of the 
head about the same number of cuts. 

We have now completed the shear and 
comb work over the fingers and you will 
comb the hair all over to one side of 
the head as we did before, making the 
front outline about the height of the clip- 
per line and at the same angle. This 
makes the outline just a little higher than 
for the half crown. 

Now step around to the other side and 
cut your outline the same as the other side, 
the same height and the same angle, then 
comb the hair down over the forehead and 



Page one hundred two 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



if the work has been properly done it will 
form a perfect "V" with the longest hair 
in the center of the forehead. 

We will now dust the hair and linen 
again, remove our haircloth, comb the hair 
to give you the effect. Moisten the hair 
as before, thoroughly rubbing the moisture 
through the hair and scalp, giving a light 
scalp massage, and brush and comb again. 
This time, you may comb all of the hair 
over to one side, making no parts, and this 
may be roached up in front or it may be 
combed flat. Study effects when combing 
hair and try to turn out the best looking 
job you can. 

Now we will show another effect, this 
time making a part near the center or at 
the center, if your customer prefers, roach- 
ing both sides up, slightly back. The comb- 
ing is the most fascinating part of barber 
business, and you must acquire a taste for 
this if you expect to enjoy your work. 



Things to Remember 



A double ought clipper may 
be used at the lower part of 
the neck, but should not go 
higher. 




As much pains should be 
taken in combing the short 
trims as the long. Frequently 
they are more difficult to make 
look well. 



Side view finished full crown. Hair roached back 



Page one hundred three 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



There are many differences 
in ladies' and men's haircut- 
ting, but if one has become a 
good men's haircutter, it zvill 
not be difficult to acquire la- 
dies' work. 



Never make lower outlines 
the exact height you desire 
them; allow for retrim. 



LADIES' AND CHILDREN'S HAIRCUTS 



HTHE proper cutting and arranging of 
•*- bobbed hair has become one oi the 
most important and profitable part Of the 
barber profession, and we are extending a 
great effort toward the attainment of the 
best results in ladies' haircutting. 

You will find that ladies are the most 
critical customers, and are expert judges 
on this class of service. 

First, and the most important part, is 
to ascertain just what style hair cut your 
customer prefers, and after deciding on the 
style you should picture in your own mind 
iust how that hair cut ought to look after 
vou have completed the work. 




Outline for the first cut 



Page one hundred four 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

Things to Remember 




Retrim for straight bob 

If you are trimming a long head of hair 
that is being bobbed for the first time, you 
will find out just how your customer de- 
sires the work. If it is to be a straight bob, 
see that the hair is properly parted and 
combed smoothly and evenly straight down 
all around before making the trim. 

If the hair is to be curled later, you must 
allow for shrinkage, but if not your outline 
should be one-half inch lower than you in- 
tend to have it when you have completed 
for you will be obliged to trim around a 
number of times to even it after your first 



In all ladies' haircuts, as- 
certain whether or not the hair 
is to be ivorn straight or 
curled. If curled, allow for 
the shrinkage. 




This illustration shoivs trim- 
ming with the points of the 
shears from the outer edge. 
This is only desirable for rag- 
ged edges, not for thinning. 



Thinned outline with shear points 



Page one hundred five 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember 



The English process is most 
desirable as it thins from un- 
derneath, leaving the longer 
hair on the outside to be 
combed into a swirl, if desired. 




cut. 
inch. 



Thinning by English trimming 



This will shorten it about one-half 



If this head of hair is to be shingled, 
after making the first outline you will trim 
the heavy hair in the back by a method 
known to us as the English cut, holding a 
strand of hair in the left hand, cutting 
from underneath with a half open blade of 
the shear, closing it slightly each stroke as 
you slide the blades up the strand of hair. 



The work of cutting over 
the shears and comb for ladies' 
work can only be used at the 
back of the neck, unless the 
boyish bob is given. 




Back trimmed with shears and comb 



Page one hundred six 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

Things to Remember 



// the lower hair line at the 
back of the neck grows irreg- 
ularly, it may be scalloped with 
a pronounced edge, like drap- 
ery, but this is one of the ex- 
tremes. 




Pointed outline 



This thins the heavy hair away, leaving it 
fairly smooth, better than it can be done 
by working over the fingers as you do for 
the men's haircut. 

You start about one-half inch back of 
the ear on the right side and thin around 
to within one-half inch of the ear on the 
left side. After having completed this 
thinning process, you may use your clipper 
on the back of the neck to the proper height 
either to an outline you may have designat- 
ed, which may be a ''V" shape or straight 
around or any other design your customer 
prefers, and from the clipper line trim the 




In lifting a strand of long 
hair as illustrated, it may be 
thrown out of the way and the 
shorter hair underneath, trim- 
med with the shears and comb. 



Thin edge produced by outside cut 



Page one hundred seven 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



// hair is to be combed 
straight back flat like a man's 
pompadour, it can be cut the 
same except that it should be 
longer on the sides and in 
combing back, partly cover the 
ears. 



An artistic ladies' haircut- 
ter must be an artistic hair- 
comber. Water waving, finger 
waving and like waves are nec- 
essary for proper effect. 



balance of the back of the head by cutting 
over the comb about as high as you would 
for a long trim. 

Now blend the sides just back of the ears 
by using the English trim slightly which 
will smooth the abrupt edge from the long 
hair covering the ears to the short hair 
back of them. If a heavy, blunt line is left 
on the sides, thin just the lower edges by 
using the English cut, but do not allow the 
shears to slide up the strand of hair more 
than an inch or two from the ends. This 
process is to thin away the underneath part 
of the blunt edge which will allow the outer 
edge to turn in, giving a better style to the 
cut. 

Be careful that you have the hair 
combed out well around the ears as quite 
frequently the hair will fold around back 
of the ear and if it is not combed out when 
cutting it will show ragged ends later. And 
if you will part the hair around the ear, 
you will not only be getting these long- 
ends but you can gauge your work better, 
as the lobe of the ear is your gauge in cut- 
ting the proper length. 

If your customer wears a dip on the side, 
be careful that you leave this hair that lies 
in front of the ear longer, as the dip will 
take up the length and blend in with the 
rest of the cut. 

There are various styles of ladies' hair 
cuts, and I would advise that you study 
the charts carefully and become familiar 
with the various styles. However, after 
vou have become a haircutter and have a 



Page one hundred eight 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

Things to Remember 



Bangs are dangerous. It is 
easy to make and unmake good 
effects. 




Heart shaped bang 

fair knowledge of the work you will be 
able to cut any style if you will first con- 
sult your customer and ascertain the exact 
style that she wishes. 

If bangs are worn, they may be trimmed 
in any manner your customer desires. You 
can part from the forehead about an inch 
back from the hair line, the amount you 
want to cut into bangs, and trim it the 
shape or style your customer desires. 
Sometimes the bangs are trimmed in what 
we know as the heart shape or they may be 
trimmed diagonally across the forehead or 
straight across or "V" shape, rounding or 
any other style your customer may desire. 

If this were a child's haircut, I would 
bring the outline nearly to the top of the 
ear and use the clippers to that point. 
Children's haircutting does not vary 
greatly from the women's straight bob, ex- 
cept in the height of the outline. 



To specialise in ladies' hair- 
cutting, one should also spe- 
cialise in ladies' hair-dressing. 



Page one hundred nin 



Lesson 



Seven 



Subject 

SANITATION 

Embracing 



1. Bacteria 

2. Infection 

3. Disinfectants 

4. Antiseptics 

5. Sterilization 

This is one of the most import- 
ant subjects to be considered in 
the work of the better barber 
and should be thoroughly un- 
derstood, as it has to do with the 
cleanliness of your instruments, 
linens, and in fact your entire es- 
tablishment. It involves Steril- 
ization, Disinfectants, Antisep- 
tics, and the use of Chemicals in 
the destruction of Bacteria that 
may cause infection. 

BACTERIA 

These are the lowest form of 
the vegetable kingdom and are 
the smallest living structures 
known. They are composed of 
single cells of protoplasm. They 
occur in the soil to a depth of 
several feet and in the air to a 
certain height. 

They are usually found within 
all cavities of the body which are 
open to the external air. The 
majority of bacteria are not in- 
jurious or harmful to the hu- 
man race; in fact, the great ma- 
jority are helpful and useful to 



6. Moist Heat 

7. Dry Heat 

8. Chemicals 

9. Vapor 
10. Solutions 

man and only a comparatively 
few are really dangerous and 
detrimental to bodily health. 

On the other hand, bacteria of 
the pathogenic type are disease 
producing and are man's greatest 
scourge. Many diseases are now 
scientifically recognized as being 
entirely caused by the presence 
of bacteria. 

There are certain well under- 
stood requirements for the 
growth of bacteria. These are: 
Food, Moisture and Tempera- 
ture. 

There are at all times produced 
in the bodies of persons, sub- 
stances which are capable of hin- 
dering the growth of bacteria. 
These are spoken of as immuniz- 
ing substances. When bacteria, 
capable of causing disease, finds 
lodgment in the body of an indi- 
vidual, the condition is known as 
one of infection. 

In order to prevent infection, 
it is necessary to pay strict at- 
tention to the sanitation in your 
shop. 



Page one hundred ten 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



With the rigid laws exercised 
by the various health depart- 
ments in all cities, the steriliza- 
tion of all instruments, proper 
cleansing of the hands, use of 
clean linen, such as towels, 
jackets, chair cloths, and head 
covering, are necessities that 
must be carefully considered as 
being of utmost importance to 
the Barber Shop owner. 

INFECTION 

In implanting in the tissues of 
the body living pathogenic organ- 
isms, or germs, in such a way as 
to favor their growth and permit 
their toxins to impure the tissues. 
Infection of the body with mi- 
cro-organism is means of ent- 
rance of these organisms into the 
body through certain ports of 
entry, the principal ones being 
the skin, the respiratory, alimen- 
tary, the genito-urinary tracts of 
the body. While some micro-or- 
ganisms may enter the healthy 
and normal skin, this is rare and 
the usual mode of entrance is 
through cuts, abrasions, wounds, 
etc. The skin is a port of en- 
trance and admits certain ani- 
mal and vegetable parasites, such 
as fungus, scabies, etc. 

Sanitation is classified as fol- 
lows: Sterilization, Disinfect- 
ants, Antiseptics. 

STERILIZATION 

Sterilization means extreme 
cleanliness, destroying all germs 
by chemical or mechanical means. 
It is the destruction of all organic 



life, whether infective or not. 
This can be accomplished by dif- 
ferent means, such as: Moist 
Heat, Dry Heat, Chemicals or 
Vapor. 

MOIST HEAT 

This means steaming or boil- 
ing instruments in water for 
twenty minutes. In order to ac- 
complish this an electric heating 
element can be used. This attach- 
ment can be fastened to a glass 
of water and attached to an elec- 
tric light socket. When the elec- 
tricity is turned on it will boil 
the water in from one to two min- 
utes. The instruments, after 
washing them in soap and water, 
are then dipped in boiling water 
and left there for a few minutes, 
after which they are placed in an 
air tight cabinet sterilizer until 
used. 




Electric heating element for boil- 
ing instruments. 



DRY HEAT 

Only such instruments as will 
stand heat such as metal or glass 
are adaptable to this method. 



Page one hundred eleven 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




Cabinet sterilizer. 

This is used by means of baking 
in an oven for 20 minutes. The 
oven is heated to a temperature 
used for baking. This method 
is used for sterilizing linens, 
towels, etc. 

CHEMICALS 

This method is most commonly 
used in the Barber Shop work. 
A sterilizing solution should be 
placed in an open mouthed jar, 
the opening to be large enough 
to admit instruments easily. It 
should be tightly covered when 
not in use and the solution should 
be changed every day, as sedi- 
ments begin to form at the bot- 
tom of the jar. 

VAPORS 

By this means, chemicals of a 
gaseous nature that produce a va- 
por, such as Formeldehyde, are 
used. A cabinet sterilizer is used 



for this purpose and after instru- 
ments are placed in it, it is kept 
tightly closed and air tight. A 
small glass tray is used on which 
a piece of blotting paper or piece 
of cotton is placed. On this blot- 
ting paper place 

1 tablespoon borax. 

1 tablespoon formaldehyde. 

This creates the vapors neces- 
sary for the purpose of keeping 
instruments steril after they have 
been washed and dipped in a ster- 
ilizing solution, then dried thor- 
oughly and placed in cabinet ster- 
ilizer. 

STERILIZING COMBS AND 
BRUSHES 

Combs, brushes and like in- 
struments should first be washed 
with soap and water. Common 
laundry soap will do if you have 
no other, and then dip instru- 
ments into the following solu- 
tions. The favorite solutions are: 

10% solution of carbolic acid. 

This is made by adding 

Liquid carbolic acid, 1 part. 

Water (boiled or distilled), 10 parts. 

also 

4% solution of formalin, or 5% phenol. 

This is made by using 

4 oz. formaldehyde. 
Yi gal. water. 

WORK STANDS, LAVATORIES, 
BOWLS, TOPS OF TABLES, ETC. 

These should be washed well 
and the same solution used as for 
combs and brushes. 

MANICURE INSTRUMENTS 

Manicure instruments should 
be dipped in a 2 per cent solution 
of Formalin or by use of moist 
heat. Thev should be freed from 



Page one hundred twelve 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




Jar for sterilizing solution. 

all foreign substance before ster- 
ilizing. A solution for this pur- 
pose can be made by using. 

2 oz. formaldehyde 
y z gal. (boiled or distilled) water 

Then place them in the steril- 
izing cabinet until they are to be 
used. 

DISINFECTANTS 

Disinfectant is an agent capa- 
ble of destroying germs. Dis- 
infection differs from steriliza- 
tion in this regard. Sterilization 
is the absolute destruction of all 
organic life whether infective or 
not. It is, therefore, more than 
a disinfectant which destroys the 
germs of infection only. Infec- 
tion is denned as disease spread 
from sick to well by direct or in- 
direct innoculation. 

A room may be disinfected by 
fumigation with Formaldehyde 
or similar gasses. Linens can be 
disinfected by boiling in hot 



water and soap. The hands and 
skin can be disinfected by wash- 
ing with a germicidal soap or us- 
ing a light solution of Formalin. 
A 1 per cent solution is used for 
this purpose and is made by add- 
ing 

1 oz. formaldehyde 
y z gal. water (boiled or distilled) 

ANTISEPTICS 

Antiseptics are agents which 
restrain the growth of Bacteria. 
A disinfectant must be an anti- 
septic, but an antiseptic need not 
be a disinfectant. 

Alcohol when used full strength 
is one of the best antiseptics 
known. It is also the safest and 
most economical cleansing me- 
dium that can be used and is es- 
pecially good to cleanse electrical 
appliances such as electrodes for 
Hy Frequency, Faradic and Gal- 
vanic batteries. A pad of cotton 
is saturated with alcohol and 
used to cleanse them. 

Alcohol will penetrate the lay- 
ers of the Epidermis and destroy 
bacteria located between them. 

Boric Acid is a powdered anti- 
septic which can be used for pads 
for eyes, also as a cleansing me- 
dium and for hot packs in infec- 
tion. When used for this pur- 
pose prepare in the following 
manner : 

Boric acid crystal, V/\ oz. 
Water, y 2 gal. 

When used in small quantities 
as a cleansing medium for Hy- 
dro-vacu, it can be prepared in 
the following manner : 

1 teaspoonful of boric acid crystal 
1 cup boiling water 



Page one hundred thirteen 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Peroxide of Hydrogen is a 
mild antiseptic and can be used 
full strength. It can be used on 
the skin. 

Rules for making solutions: 

5 drops to 1 oz. makes 1% solution 
25 drops to 1 oz. makes 5% solution 

5 drops to 1 oz. makes 1% solution 

8 drops to 1 pint makes 1 to 1000 solution 
60 drops to 1 gal. makes 1 to 1000 solution 

1 teaspoonful equals 60 drops 
Ordinary glass, 8 oz. 
Teacupful, 6 oz. 

1 pint, 16 oz. 

1 quart, 32 oz. 

The Beauty Specialist is privi- 
leged to use the following chem- 
icals in preparing solutions: 

Alcohol, this is used full strength 
Bichloride of Mercury, 1 to 1000 
Carbolic Acid, 10% 
Iodine, 75% 
Lysol, 1% 
Formalin, 4% 

Formalin is considered the 
cheapest of the different solutions 
used for sterilizing. It does not 
stain or corrode metal. 

The hands should be thor- 
oughly disinfected; the nails 
should always be cared for espe- 
cially if your work has been on 
the scalp or face. Personal hy- 
giene is very important in a 
Barber Shop. Jackets should al- 
ways be clean as the personal ap- 
pearance of an operator adds 
much to the popularity of the 
shop. 

Other methods of sterilization 
besides those already mentioned 
can be accomplished through 
Decomposition, by strong 

acids, 
Burning, with fire. 

The Laws of Sanitation gov- 
erning Barber Shops, prohibits 



the use of the fingers in removing 
cream from the jar. A small 
spatula or spoon that can be ster- 
ilized should be used instead. 

Cosmetics must be removed 
by means of cotton gauze pledg- 
ets or paper tissue, or other ster- 
ilizable materials such as soft 
towels. 

Powder must be in sifter top 
containers or covered powder 
boxes. 

All creams and lotions and 
other cosmetics must be kept in 
a clean and closed container. 

Hands must be thoroughly 
cleansed and sterilized before and 
after each patron. 

DEFINITIONS 

Asepsis — Absence of septic matter or free- 
dom from infection. 

Aseptic — Free from Septic Material. Ab- 
sence of living pathogenic micro-organ- 
isms. 

Antiseptic — A substance destructive to 
poisonous germs. 

Bacteria — The lowest form of vegetable 
kingdom consists of a single cell, the 
basic principle of which is everywhere 
except in high altitudes, deep water and 
deep soil. It requires to live, food, 
moisture and temperature of 70 to 90 
degrees. 

Disinfection — The act or process of free- 
ing from Bacteria by means of chem- 
icals. You can sterilize instruments 
and materials, but you disinfect your 
hands by dipping in a 1% solution of 
Formalin. 

Germ — A microbe or bacillus. 

Germicide — A chemical agent, capable of 
destroying. 

Infection — Disease spread from sick to 
well by direct of indirect innoculation. 

Pathogenic — Germs that are disease pro- 
ducing. 

Sanitation — The application of measures 
to promote public health. 

Sterilization — Simply means extreme 
cleanliness, which prevents disease, by 
killing the germs or neutralizing their 
action. 

Sterile — Free from germs. 



Page one hundred fourteen 



Lesson 



Eight 



Subject 

ELECTRICITY 



Embracing 



1. Galvanic 

2. Faradic 

3. High Frequency 

4. Negative 

5. Positive 



6. Voltage 

7. Amperage 

8. Lights 

9. Red 
10. Blue 



PLECTRICITY is a current of 
motion or some other form of 
action of that form of matter 
called ether. Ether permeates 
all matter, pervades all space and 
is affected by the matter of the 
body in which it is. It cannot be 
weighed, seen or measured. As 
used in the work of the Barber 
Specialist it is available in the 
shape of dry cells as used for bat- 
teries or 110 voltage used for 
lights and power purposes. 

Electricity as used in the work 
of the progressive barber is in 
three forms: Galvanic, Faradic, 
Hy Frequency. 

GALVANIC CURRENT 

Galvanic current is a current 
of electricity that has a decided 
chemical effect on the tissues. It 
is an uninterrupted current flow- 
ing constantly in one direction 
from the positive to the negative 
pole. It is always used in Elec- 
trolysis, also for cataphorisis in- 
troduction of medicines through 



the unbroken skin, or for coagu- 
lation (to form a clot). 

Galvanic current is produced 
by immersing plates of zinc or 
copper in an exciting fluid, such 
as salt water or acid, and con- 
necting them with a wire. A sin- 
gle cell of a battery is made. 
This cell produces the Galvanic 
or constant current. 

The acid produces a chemical 
decomposition by attacking the 
zinc, causes a current to flow 
through the fluid from the zinc to 
the carbon and then out from the 
carbon through the connecting 
cords. 

The galvanic current can be 
used through a wall plate which 
is an electrical instrument which 
turns electricity into galvanism 
or Faradism, or through the use 
of a dry cell battery. 

It is often necessary to de- 
termine the polarity (this is the 
chemical action or reaction which 
takes place at the point where the 
current enters and leaves the 



Page one hundred fifteen 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



binding post, cell or battery). 
This is done by immersing the 
tips of the conducting cords in a 
glass of water, never metal. Ob- 
serve the "bubbles" which appear, 
on them. A few may appear on 
the positive and "stick," but the 
negative releases them. 

It is not necessary to test for 
polarity on a dry cell battery, as 
this is already determined by the 
wiring or construction of the bat- 
tery. It is very important to re- 
member that each pole has a defi- 
nite action upon which we de- 
pend for results. 

ACTION OF POSITIVE POLE IN 
GALVANIC CURRENT 

This has a sedative effect. It 
decreases pain and also reduces 
inflammation; has an astringent 
effect and contracts the pores it 
hardens, also dissolves all metal 
except gold, platinum and alumi- 
num. It is the pole to which the 
water or moist pad is attached in 
Electrolysis. 

ACTION OF NEGATIVE POLE IN 
GALVANIC CURRENT 

This dissolves, softens and 
liquifies, therefore, it is always 
used for the needle when electro- 
lysis is done. It also increases 
inflammation, does not dissolve 
metals. 

FORCING MEDICINES INTO THE 
SKIN 

Forcing medicines or liquids 
into the unbroken skin can only 
be done with the Galvanic Cur- 
rent. It is necessary to reverse 
the polarity, that is, a patron 



would be required to hold the 
electrode which is attached to 
negative pole, rather than the 
positive as is usual, while the 
liquid is applied to the sponge, 
and is attached to the positive 
pole. This is called Castophor- 
esis. A metallic taste in the 
mouth is usually experienced 
with the Galvanic current. 

TO CONTRACT PORES WITH 
GALVANIC CURRENT 

The galvanic current is often 
used by some operators at the 
close of an ordinary facial to 
contract the pores. When this 
method is used, it is applied over 
the entire face in a rotary move- 
ment for about 10 minutes with 
a felt electrode. The poles are 
reversed also for this purpose 
and this operation is called Gal- 
vanic Contractility. 

CAUTERIZATION WITH GAL- 
VANIC CURRENT 

Galvano Cauterization as used 
in Electrolysis, is the change of 
the galvanic electricity into chem- 
ical action and the cauterization 
is caused by the releasing of the 
acids and alkalies. This is the 
destruction of living tissue, as in 
the removal of warts and moles. 

FARADIC CURRENT 

The faradic current is an in- 
terrupted or induced current. It 
is an alternating current and has 
little or no chemical action on 
the tissues and is of high voltage 
and low amperage. It is especi- 
ally beneficial in facial and scalp 



Page one hundred sixteen 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



work, through finger manipul- 
ations, the current passing 
through the fingers. 

It is a current that develops 
the muscles, circulation is im- 
proved by it, sleep is induced and 
mental faculties are strengthened. 
Through it stimulation is sup- 
plied, and wasted tissues are built 
up. 

HY FREQUENCY 

Hy Frequency is a current of 
high voltage and low amperage. 
It is claimed that it produces 
stimulation and must, therefore, 
have sufficient electric . force to 
''jump," but must be of such vol- 
ume as not to be difficult to con- 
trol, and when brought into con- 
tact with the skin, it produces 
ozone and antiseptic gas. The 
High Frequency generates great 
quantities of ozone during its 
flow, similar to phosphorus. This 
ozone is oxide of oxygen and one 
of the most beneficial and health- 
giving elements known to man. 
It also improves glandular activ- 
ity, stimulates oxidation, in- 
creases elimination and has an 
anesthetic effect. It passes 
through the body without meet- 
ing any apparent resistance and 
does not stop anywhere in the 
body long enough to cause any 
discomfort to the nerves or mus- 
cles, yet this penetrating vapor- 
like current will saturate every 
cell in the body from head to foot, 
filling it with new life and re- 
newed resistance, as it has a deep 



and superficial effect on the tis- 
sues. 

It acts as a deep cellular mas- 
sage. Cellular massage is more 
penetrating and beneficial than 
muscular massage. This cur- 
rent of electricity is applied 
through an insulator. This is of 
thin glass or an electrode that is 
silvered inside. When this elec- 
trode has been freed from air and 
then sealed by turning on a high 
voltage current, it throws off a 
purplish light within. It is 
through this light it gets its name 
of Violet Ray. When the bulb 
electrode is held a slight distance 
from the face it acts as a stimu- 
lant and as a germicide as in 
treatment of Acne, etc., and this 
stimulation is deeper and more 
lasting than any other method. 

A Volt is a unit of push power 
and electro force. 

An Ampere is a unit of cur- 
rent strength. 

LIGHTS 

Red Light has very strong heat 
rays. It has astringent and tonic 
effect on the tissues and renders 
it resistant to bacteria. It is 
used in the treatment of large 
pores to dry the mud pac. It 
also brings the blood to the sur- 
face and in this manner promotes 
the absorption of creams, etc. 

Blue Light has an antiseptic 
effect on the skin. It has seda- 
tive effect on the nerves and can 
be used as a germicide. It also 
has penetrative qualities. 



Caution — Never use electricity around water when attached to street current. 

Page one hundred seventeen 



Lesson 



Nine 



Subject 

CHEMISTRY 



Embracing 



1. Elements 

2. Chemical Change 

3. Analysis 

4. Nomenclature 

5. Combinations 



6. Reactions 

7. Radicles 

8. Acids 

9. Volume 

10. Stoichiometry 



For this article we are indebted to 

Victor Olsen, Chemist 

And The Compend of Chemistry 

By Dr. Leffmann 



ELEMENTS 

Chemistry is an abstract-concrete 
science that investigates the composi- 
tion of matter. 

Matter is anything that occupies 
space and has weight. 

Changes may be physical or chem- 
ical. Physical change is in general 
that which occurs without change of 
composition. The development of mag- 
netic properties in iron is a good ex- 
ample of a physical change. The most 
frequent instances of true physical 
change are those known as changes of 
state. Matter is considered to exist 
in at least three states — solid, liquid, 
and gaseous. The change from one 
of these conditions to the other takes 
place under the influence of change of 
temperature, and is not necessarily 
attended by any alteration of compo- 
sition. Such is the case in the con- 
version of ice into water, or water 
into steam, or the reverse. In many 
cases the conversion of a solid into a 
liquid, or of a liquid into a gas, is 
attended by change of composition, 
and, therefore, is not merely a physical 
change. Chemical change, the proper 
study of chemistry, is that attended 
by alteration of composition. The 
rusting or iron, burning of coal, rot- 
ting of animal and vegetable matter 
are familiar instances of chemical 
change. 



Forms of Chemical Change.^ — These 
are combination, decomposition, and 
re-arrangement. Combination is the 
association of substance to form a 
new substance; decomposition is sep- 
aration into raw substances. Rear- 
rangement refers to cases in which 
new substances are formed without 
combination or decomposition^ Under 
present knowledge decomposition can- 
not be carried on indefinitely. No 
matter what substance is taken for ex- 
periment, limits will be reached that 
are incapable of further decomposi- 
tion by any method known. For ex- 
ample, chalk may by heat be decom- 
posed into two substances, one a col- 
orless gas, called carbon dioxid ; the 
other a white powder, called calcium 
oxid, or, commonly, lime. These prod- 
ucts are different from the chalk and 
from each other, but they do not rep- 
resent the limit of decomposition, for 
by special methods each can be made 
to yield two substances. The lime 
yields a solid (called calcium) and a 
gas called oxygen; the carbon dioxid 
yields a solid (called carbon) and a 
gas which is the same as that from 
the lime, namely, oxygen. The sub- 
stances thus obtained are incapable of 
further decomposition by any process 
as yet known. By proceeding in this 
woy with all known substances, chem- 
ists have determined limits of decom- 
position, and have established that all 



Page one hundred eighteen 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



material objects may be regarded as 
formed from a limited number of sub- 
stances. * These are called elements 
and are generally supposed t> be un- 
decomposable bodies, not capable of 
conversion into each other, but this 
view has been modified by recent dis- 
coveries. 

About eighty elements are now 
known. Each substance known is 
either one of these elements or an as- 
sociation of two or more of them. 
Consequently all substances are di- 
vided into two classes, elementary and 
compound. The main object of chem- 



istry is to discover what elements are 
present in any substance and what are 
the laws governing the action of the 
elements upon each other. 

Analysis and Synthesis. — When the 
composition of a substance is deter- 
mined by separating and recognizing 
the elements contained in it, the pro- 
cess is called analysis; when substances 
are produced by combining elements 
the process is called synthesis. 

Following is a tabulated list of the 
more common elements with their 
symbols and atomic weights. 







Atomic 






Atomic 


Element 


Symbol 


Weight 


Element 


Symbol 


Weight 


Aluminum . 


Al 


27.1 


Magnesium 


Mg 


24.32 


Antimony 


Sb 


120.2 


Manganese 


Mn 


54.93 


Argon 


A 


39.88 


Mercury 


Hg 


200.37 


Arsenic 


As 


74.96 


Molybdenum 


Mo 


96.0 


Barium 


Ba 


137.37 


Neon . . .• 


Ne 


20.2 


Bismuth .... 


Bi 


208.0 


Nickel 


Ni 


58.68 


Boron 


B 


11.0 


Nitrogen 


N 


14.01 


Bromin 


Br 


79.92 


Oxygen 


O 


16.00 


Cadmium 


Cd 


112.31 


Phosphorus . . . 


P 


31.04 


Calcium 


Ca 


40.13 


Patinum 


Pt 


195.2 


Carbon 


C 


12.00 


Potassium 


K 


39.1Q 


Chlorin 


CI 


35.46 


Radium 


Rd 


226.96 


Chromium 


Cr 


52.0 


Rhodium 


Rh 


102.9 


Cobalt 


Co 


58.97 


Selenium 


Se 


79.18 


Copper 


Cu 


63.54 


Silicon 


Si 


28.3 


Fluorin 


F 


19.0 


Silver 


Ag 


107.88 


Gold 


Au 


197.2 


Sodium 


Na 


23.00 


Helium 


He 


3.99 


Strontium 


Sr 


87.63 


Hydrogen 


H 


1.008 


Sulphur 


S 


32.07 


Iodin 


I 


126.92 


Tin 


Sn 


119.0 


Iridium 


Ir 


193.42 


Titanium 


Ti 


48.1 


Iron 


Fe 


55.84 


Tungsten 


W 


184.0 


Krypton 


Kr 


82.92 


Uranium 


U 


238.5 


Lead 


Pb 


207.10 


Vanadium 


V 


51.0 


Lithium 


Li 


6.94 


Zinc 


Zn 


65.37 



Page one hundred nineteen 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Chemists have been generally of 
the opinion that a limit does exist 
and that every substance is made up 
of particles of definite size and incap- 
able of further division. Such par- 
ticles are very small, and equally hard, 
no matter what the nature of the mass 
which they constitute. They are called 
atoms (a word signifying indivisible) ; 
any mass of elementary matter consists 
of a collection of a greater or less 
number of these atoms. It is believed 
that the atoms are rarely perfectly 
free, but associated in groups, called 
molecules. When, therefore, the sul- 
phur is powdered, the molecules are 
merely separated from each other. 

Molecules consisting of one kind of 
atoms are called elemental molecules; 
those containing more than one kind 
are called compound molecules. 

Atoms and molecules are believed to 
be in a constant state of vibration, 
the rapidity of which increases with 
increase of temperature, and is, there- 
fore, more rapid in the liquid than 
in the solid state, and still more rapid 
in the gaseous condition. 

Atomic Weights.— Chemists have 
never been able to render visible in- 
dividual atoms or molecules, but the 
progress of research has developed 
some general principles. 

1st. That the atom of each elemem 
has a constant and definite weight. 
2nd. That the atom of hydrogen is 
the lightest of all. 

3rd. That combination takes place 
among most atoms under the action 
of chemical affinity. 

Starting with the first two princi- 
ples numbers have been obtained 
which are supposed to represent the 
weight of each atom compared to the 
atom of hydrogen. These numbers 
are called atomic weights. 

In any compound the sum of all 
the atomic weights is called the mo- 
lecular weight. Thus, its molecular 
weight is 40. 

Na = 23 
= 16 
H= 1 



40 



NOTATION 

In chemistry, a symbol is an abbre- 
viation of the name of an element ; in 
most cases an initial letter is used, as 
C for carbon, P for phosphorous. 
Since some elements have names be- 
ginning with the same letter, pro- 
per distinction is obtained by as- 
signing the single letter to the most 
common, and attaching small letters 
to the other initials. Thus C stands 
for carbon, Ca for calcium, CI for 
chlorin, Cd for cadmium. Some ele- 
ments have different names in differ- 
ent languages, and for these the sym- 
bol is formed from the Latin name. 
Iron, for instance, is represented by 
Fe(ferrum) ; lead by Pb (plumbum) ; 
silver by Ag (argentum) ; potassium 
by K (kalium). 

To express combinations between 
elements — in other words, to express 
the composition of a compound body 
or of a molecule— the symbols are 
to be written together like the letters 
of a word. Such a collection of sym- 
bols! is called a formula. 

The symbol, however, not only rep- 
resents the element, but one atom of 
it. The expression CaO not only 
shows a compound consisting of cal- 
cium and oxygen, but also indicates 
that it contains a single atom of each 
element. Ca0 2 shows that two atoms 
' of oxygen are present and one of cal- 
cium. In writing these expressions 
certain rules are followed: — 

1st. To multiply an atom, a small 
number is attached to the lower right 
hand, as seen above, where 2 indi- 
cates two of oxygen. The formula 
GILO:: shows a combination consist- 
ing of two atoms of carbon, four of 
hydrogen and two of oxygen. 

2d. To multiply several atoms by 
the same number, a large figure is 
placed in front. Thus 2HC10 is equal 
to H2CI2O2; that is, the large figure 
multiplies the whole expression. 

3d. To multiply a portion of an ex- 
pression, several methods are in use. 
The part to be multiplied may be 
placed in parentheses, and the proper 
number attached to the right-hand 
corner. Ba(NO.) a , for instance, 



Page one hundred twenty 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



equals BaN,0„ ; C 6 H,(N0 2 )A equals 
C 6 H 8 N 2 9 . The effect of the small 
figure is limited to the part within 
the parentheses. This method is es- 
pecially adapted to multiplying sym- 
bols in the middle or at the end of a 
formula. To multiply the symbols at 
the beginning of a formula, it is usual 
to point off or punctuate the part to 
be affected, and place a large figure in 
front. Some irregularity prevails as 
to the particular sign used, the comma 
and semicolon both being employed. 
It is sufficient for the student to bear 
in mind that a punctuation mark or 
arithmetical sign in a formula will 
stop the multiplying effect of the large 
figure at the beginning of the expres- 
sion. For instance, 2C 2 H.,, H 2 N is 
equal to C4H:oH 2 N ; similarly, in 
2FeS0 4 + HC1 the letters following 
the plus sign are not affected by the 
figure 2. If it is desired to carry the 
multiplying effect to the end of the 
expression, it is enclosed in paren- 
theses; thus, 2(FeS0 4 + HC1). Here 
all the letters are equally influenced. 

Since the symbol of each element 
represents one atom, it follows that 
every symbol carries with it an idea 
of quality. HC1 means not merely 
that hydrogen and chlorin are in com- 
bination but that the amounts by 
weight are in the proportion of the 
atomic weights ; *". c, 1 (atomic weight 
H) to 35.46 (atomic weight CI). 
When the symbol is multiplied, the 
weight is also multiplied. For in- 
stance, H 3 represents 2 parts by 
weight of H to 16 of O ; HgCl 2 rep- 
resents 200 parts of mercury and 70.92 
(35.46 X 2) parts of chlorin. 

Empirical, Rational and Structural 
Formulas. — When symbols are writ- 
ten so as to show merely the total 
number of each of the atoms present, 
the formula is termed empirical. When 
some arrangement of the atoms is in- 
dicated the formula is termed rational. 
A structural formula is one that is 
intended to show the supposed rela- 
tive positions of atoms in space. 
H 3 PO a is the empirical formula of 
hypophosphorous acid; (HO)H 2 PO» 
is the rational formula. 



NOMENCLATURE 

The names of chemical compounds 
are regulated by a system which de- 
pends essentially upon the employment 
of certain terminations. 

In the old division of the elements 
into metals and non-metals, the metals 
were usually distinguished by the ter- 
mination "um." A change of this 
termination into "a" indicated combi- 
nation with oxygen. Potassium (K) 
becomes by oxidation potassa (K 2 0) ; 
sodium (Na) becomes soda (Na 2 0) ; 
magnesium (Mg) becomes magnesia 
(MgO). As the names of many of 
the common metals do not end in 
"um" unless the Latin name is used, 
this rule is only of limited application. 
The tendency of the modern nomen- 
clature is to make but little change in 
names ending in "um." 

Chemical compounds which contain 
only two elements are called binary 
compounds. They are usually named 
by joining the names of the elements 
present and attaching to one of them 
the termination "id." This termina- 
tion may be conveniently regarded as 
an equicalent of the phrase "nothing 
else;" that is, wherever it occurs it 
indicates that nothing else is present 
except what is expressly mentioned. 
Potassium iodid, for instance, can con- 
tain nothing else but potassium and 
iodin ; copper sulphfd can contain 
nothing but copper and sulphur. 

PbO — Lead oxid. 
NaCl — Sodium chlor/J. 
AgBr — Silver bronuW. 

The syllable "id" is usually attached 
to the members of the oxygen, chlorin, 
nitrogen and carbon groups, and pref- 
erably to those of the first two groups. 
Thus, a compound of iron and carbon 
is called iron carbid, but a compound 
of carbon and chlorin is called carbon 
chlorid. 

In many books, especially in older 
works, the word "of" will be found 
frequently used in the names of com- 
pounds. Instead of copper nitrate, 
we see nitrate of copper, for potas- 
sium iodid, iodid of potassium. This 
is not regarded as proper form. 



Page one hundred twenty-one 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



As elements may combine in sev- 
eral proportions, forming several dif- 
ferent compounds, this termination id 
does not suffice. The bodies Cu 2 
and CuO are both properly called 
copper oxid, because they contain only 
copper and oxygen, but they are dif- 
ferent bodies. In the same way, SO> 
and S0 3 are both sulphur oxids. The 
distinction is made by prefixes, 

Cu 2 — Copper suboxid. 

CuO — Copper monoxid (formerly 

proto was used.) 
SOa — Sulphur dioxld (formerly 

deut or bin was used.) 
CO» — Sulphur triox'xd (also ter- 

oxid.) 
CCU — Carbon tetrachlorid or quad- 

richlorid. 
PCls — Phosphorus pentachlorid. 

Some elements form compounds in 
which the proportion is as 1 to IV2, 
but as fractions are not allowed in 
formulas, the whole expression is mul- 
tiplied by 2, which gives the proportion 
2 to 3. FeOlVk becomes, therefore, 
FeaOs. These are called sesqui-com- 
pounds. Fe 2 Oj is iron sesquioxid. The 
word sesqui means one and a half, and 
conveys the idea that the relation be- 
tween the two elements is as 1 to IV2 
(2 to 3). 

In the case of few binary compounds 
especially when they are obviously 
supersaturated, the term "per" is em- 
ployed in preference to syllables indi- 
cating number. Thus H : 2 is called 
hyldrogen peroxid rather than hydro- 
gen dioxid. It is doubtful if anything 
important is gained by this method. 

There is no uniform method for 
giving names to compounds containing 
more than two elements. Sometimes 
the system is the same as that just 
given; all the elements are mentioned 
and the termination "id" is attached. 
Thus KHO is potassium hydroxid, 
NaHO is sodium hydroxid. In other 
cases a portion of the compound is 
included under a group name, and 
this is joined with the names of the 
other elements according to the above 
rule. Thus KCN is not called potas- 
sium carbonitrid, but CN is called 



cyanogen, and the entire compound 
is called potassium cyanid. 

Among the compounds containing 
three elements are those which arc 
called salts. If zinc or zinc oxid be 
placed into sulphuric acid, a zinc salt 
is formed, in this case zinc sulphate ; 
also by direct union of many oxids ; 
for instance, when calcium oxid, CaO, 
forms with carbon dioxid, C0 2 , we get 
calcium carbonate, CaCC>3, which is 
a salt. 

Most salts contain three elements, 
of which oxygen is one, and the names 
are made by joining the names of the 
other two elements and adding to them 
certain syllables which not only in- 
dicate the presence of oxygen, but also 
partly the amount. These syllables are 
ate and ite. The former indicates the 
greater quantity of oxygen. The pot- 
assium sulphate and potassium sulphite 
both contain oxygen, but the former 
(sulphate) contains the more oxygen. 
Sodium nitrate and sodium nitn'te con- 
tain the same elements, but their com- 
position is NaNO. and NaN0 2 , re- 
spectively. 

It has been pointed out that the 
syllable id could be regarded as equi- 
valent to the phrase "nothing else." 
In the same manner, the syllables ate 
and ite may be regarded as meaning 
"something else", generally oxygen. 
Thus, while in sodium sulphio* but two 
elements are present, sodium sulphate 
and sulphite will contain three. 

These two terminations are not suf- 
ficient. Potassium, chlorin and oxygen 
unite in four dinfferent proportions, 
forming KCIO4, and KClOs, KC10 2 , 
KCIO. In such cases the important 
or most common compound is dis- 
tinguished by the termination ate, and 
the one containing the next lower 
amount of oxygen by the termination 
ite. 

The other compounds are indicated 
by the use of certain extra syllables, 
hypo and hyper, the latter now gen- 
erally abbreviated to "per." 

LAWS OF COMBINATION 

The great law of chemistry is the 
law of constant proportion. Every 
chemical compound is definite in its 



Page one hundred twenty-two 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



nature, the proportion of its constitu- 
ents being constant. Water, for in- 
stance, when pure, always consists of 
11.2 per cent, hydrogen and 88.8 per 
cent, of oxygen. 

Elements, however, are not limited 
to one proportion of combination, but 
in each proportion a different body is 
produced. Thus, there is a compound 
containing about 6 per cent, of hydro- 
gen and 94 per cent, of oxygen. It 
is, however, very different from water. 
So, also, there are five compounds of 
nitrogen and oxygen, all different bod- 
ies. When the proportions present 
in different compounds are expressed 
in terms of atomic weight, it is gen- 
erally found that a simple multiple 
relation exists. For instance, the two 
compounds of hydrogen and oxygen 
have the formula, respectively, 

H 2 —Water. 

H3O2 — Hydrogen dioxid (peroxid.) 

The five compounds of nitrogen and 
oxygen are N 2 0, NO, N2O3, NO*, 
N 3 5 . 

The fact has given rise to a second 
law, or rather rule, called the lazv of 
multiple proportion When elements 
combine in more than one proportion, 
the higher proportions are simple mul- 
tiples of the lozver. 

The same simplicity and constancy 
of proportion is observed in the com- 
bination of compound bodies. The 
combining weight of a compound body 
equals the sum of the atomic weights 
of its constituents. Thus, lime (cal- 
cium oxid), CaO, has the combining 
weight — 

Ca = 40.1 
= 16 

CaO = 56.1 

When lime and water are mixed they 
combine in definite proportions of their 
molecular weight — 



H 3 = 


2 


= 


16 


H,0 = 


18 



56.1 parts by weight of lime with 18 
parts by weight of water, forming 
74.1 parts of slacked lime — 

CaO + H 2 -» CaH 2 2 

Elements, as noted, may combine 
in several proportions. When com- 
pounds containing the same elements 
are compared, there is usually one 
proportion which seems to be the most 
natural ; it is either most frequently 
or easily produced, or it is the one 
least liable to change. Hydrogen and 
oxygen combine in two proportions, 
thus : 

2 parts by weight H 
16 parts by weight O. 
= H 2 0. Hydrogen monoxid. 

2 parts by weight H\ 
32 parts by weight Oj 
= H 2 2 . Hydrogen dioxid (peroxid.) 

These bodies are very different. The 
first is water, a compound not liable 
to decompose. The second substance 
is difficult to prepare and to preserve; 
it is liable to explode. It may be as- 
sumed, therefore, that the normal 
proportion of combination between H 
and O is H 2 0. Carbon forms with 
oxygen two well marked compounds, 
CO and CO*. CO is formed when 
carbon is burned in a deficient supply 
of oxygen, but C0 2 is formed when 
the carbon burns under natural con- 
ditions in a free draft of air or oxy- 
gen. CO, besides, shows a tendency 
to take up more oxygen, especially 
when heated, and it will combine with 
chlorin, even at ordinary temperatures. 
C0 2 , on the other hand, shows no 
tendency to combine with either oxy- 
gen or chlorin. 

The atom of hydrogen is taken as 
a point of comparison, and each ele- 
ment compared acording to the number 
of hydrogen atoms with which it forms 
the most permanent combination. For 
instance : 

CI combines with H, forming HC1. 
Br combines with H, forming HBr. 
O combines with H 2 , forming H 2 0. 
S combines with H, forming H 2 S. 
N combines with H 3 , forming H S N. 
As combines with H, forming H 3 As. 
C combines with H«, forming HiC. 



Page one hundred tiventy-three 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



These are not the only compounds 
that can be formed from these ele- 
ments, but they are those which show 
only a slight tendency either to take 
new atoms or give up what they al- 
ready possess. 

The number of hydrogen atoms with 
which any element combines is called 
its valency. 

REACTIONS 

Chemical symbols are employed not 
only to show composition, but also to 
show exactly the nature of the chem- 
ical changes which occur when dif- 
ferent substances are brought in con- 
tact. When so used, the expression 
is called a reaction. Strictly speaking, 
the statement in symbols is the "equa- 
tion of the reaction", but the shorter 
term is generally used. Some com- 
pounds, much used for producing re- 
actions, are called reagents. When 
vinegar is poured upon marble, it is 
usually said that the marble is cor- 
roded, but, in fact, the vinegar is equ- 
ally acted upon. Both substances are 
changed in composition, both are rend- 
ered unfit for their original uses ; in 
other words they have not only acted, 
they have reacted, and are, therefore, 
both reagents. 

A reaction is substantially an expres- 
sion of the result of an experiment, 
and, when correctly written, gives the 
proportion in which bodies are to be 
used and the proportion of the result- 
ing substances. Speaking absolutely, 
the correctness of any equation is not 
assured until the experiment is made 
and the result analyzed ; but the pro- 
gress of chemistry has made known 
certain laws of change, which enable 
one to predict, or infer, many results 
without the necessity of actual obser- 
vation. Every now and then, however, 
the analogy fails, and experiment dis- 
appoints the suggestions of theory. 

Reactions are written by placing in 
proper proportion and connected by 
+ signs the formulas of the bodies 
concerned, then writing the sign = 
or — » and following this by the for- 
mulas of the resulting bodies. For 
instance, 

AgNOi+NaCl-*AgCl + NaNO. 



expresses that on bringing together 
silver nitrate and hydrochloric acid, 
a chemical change occurs by which 
silver chlorid and nitric acid are pro- 
duced. This statement also shows the 
exact relations by weight in which 
the substances react, so that if, for 
example, the amount of silver nitrate 
used is known, the amount of sodium 
nitrate and silver chlorid produced 
can be calculated. (See later, under 
"Stoichiometry.) 

The sign = is still generally used 
with reactions, but to avoid suggestion 
of algebraic equations the sign — > is 
coming into use. It will be used in 
this work; it should be read "pro- 
duces" or "results in." In writing 
reactions, three difficulties are en- 
countered: 1st. To know whether a 
given change will take place. 2d. To 
know the quantities of the bodies to 
be used. 3d. To know the nature of 
the resulting bodies. These difficul- 
ties may be taken up in order. 1st. In 
the simplest cases, the nature of the 
reaction will be determined by the 
affinities of the elements as governed 
by their electrical relations, the change 
taking place in such a way that the 
element having the stronger electric 
affinity will drive out and supplant the 
element of similar but weaker affinity. 
When chlorin acts upon the bromids 
they are decomposed, the bromin being 
expelled, and bromin, in turn, expels 
iodin from combination. Therefore, 
such reactions as 



KBr + CI 
KI +Br 



KC1 + Br 
KBr + 1 



are simply illustrations of the general 
electrical relations of elements con- 
cerned. If these affinities were the 
only active causes of chemical change, 
the subject would be quite simple, but 
circumstances may modify the play of 
affinities, so as to produce an endless 
variety of chemical action. All the 
modifying influences are not yet known 
but some of them are understood, and 
are of importance. 

(a) Insolubility. — When in any 
liquid substances are brought together 
which are capable of forming a body 
insoluble in the liquid, that insoluble 



Page one hundred twenty-four 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



compound will be produced in spite 
of the general relations of affinities 
This influence of insolubility is the 
basis of a large number of tests and 
other chemical operations. 

When the formation of the insoluble 
compound would require a powerful 
chemical agent to be set free, the 
change will not take place, unless, of 
course, the added substance is stronger 
than the one to be liberated. Carbonic 
acid forms with calcium a body nearly 
insoluble in water, but this body can- 
not be formed by passing carbonic 
acid into calcium sulphate. The rea- 
son is shown at once by examining the 
conditions of the experiment. The 
reaction would have to be CaS0 4 + 
H 2 C0 3 -*CaC03 (insoluble) +H*SO«, 
that is, sulphuric acid would be set 
free. The activity of H 2 C0 3 is under 
ordinary conditions, so much below 
that of H2SO4 (see pp. — , — , — ,) 
that the former will not drive out the 
latter. The condition becomes changed 
if the action of the carbonic acid is 
assisted by some substance which will 
react with sulphuric acid and will pre- 
vent it being set free. CaSC>4+Na 2 - 
CO3 will produce immediate action 
resulting in CaC0 3 +Na 2 S0 4 . This 
reaction illustrates a common method 
of keeping the powerful affinities in 
abeyance, and thus allowing second- 
ary influences full play. Some of the 
arsenic tests show the principle strik- 
ingly. Arsenous acid added to cop- 
per sulphate produces no action, be- 
cause the affinity of the S0 4 is too 
strong, but by adding a little alkali, 
the strong affinity this has for SO* 
assists in breaking up the copper sul- 
phate and immediately a precipitate of 
of copper arsenite falls. 

(b) Volatility. — This is the second 
influence that disturbs ordinary affini- 
ties. If a body is capable of being 
converted into a gas, this fact will 
diminish its chemical power ; fixed sub 
stances that have ordinarily less affinity 
will drive it out of combination. Boric 
acid, for instance, is one of the weak 
acids, yet at a red heat it will decom- 
pose sulphates. The cause is, in the 
main, that at this temperature sul- 
phuric acid is volatile, while boric acid 
is fixed. 



The ease with which hydrogen is 
driven out of combination may be 
regarded as due to its volatility, as 
it is a gas even at low temperatures. 

(c) Concentration. — Chemical action 
is often governed by the proportion 
of substances. If water vapor is pas- 
sed over red hot iron, iron oxid is 
formed and hydrogen is set free; if 
the hydrogen is passed back over the 
iron oxid, steam is formed and iron 
set free. In the first case, the water 
is in excess, and exerts an oxidizing 
influence ; in the second, the hydrogen 
is in excess, and exerts a deoxidizing 
influence. 

It will be seen to be a deduction from 
these statements that no substance can 
be set down as absolutely the strong- 
est in affinity. Chemists cannot de- 
termine, for instance, what is the 
strongest acid or the strongest alkali, 
except under specified conditions. Un- 
der ordinary conditions, the greater the 
degree of ionization, the stronger the 
acid or base. Sulphuric acid ionizes 
readily, hence is a very strong acid. 

2d. The proportion in which bodies 
react is determined by their valencies. 
Let it be required to write the re- 
action between mercuric chlorid and 
potassium iodid. The formulas are 
HgCl 2 and KI, but the bodies • will 
not react in this proportion, for the 
Hg will require I 2 and CL will require 
K2. The proper reaction is HgCl 2 + 
2KI=HgI 2 +2KCl. In the same way, 
antimonous sulphid and hydrochloric 
acid can only act upon each other in 
the ratio Sb 2 S3+6HCl because Sb be- 
ing a triad, Sb 2 will combine with Cln, 
and S being dyad, Sa will require Ho. 

3d. If a chemical change occurs 
when two given substances are brought 
in contact, the nature of it will depend 
principally upon the electrical rela- 
tions of the ions concerned. In the 
reactionHgCl 2 +H 2 S, the or.lv possible 
result is the combination of S with 
Hg and H with CI, as is shown at 
once by placing the proper signs over 
the elements, 

+ — + — 
HgCl 2 H 2 S. 



Page one hundred twenty-five 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Such a combination as 

+ + 

HgH 2 or CUS 

is improbable, since like electrocitis 
do not attract. In beginning with re- 
actions, the student will do well to 
place the proper signs over the ions 
and these will be useful guide and 
control. When acids or salts, contain- 
ing three elements, are part of the re- 
action, the positive sign is put over 
the hydrogen or the metal, and the 
negative sign over the remaining ele- 
ments — 

+ - +—+—+•- 

Ba(N03) J +K 2 SO^BaS04+2KN0 3 

The placing of the single sign over 
two elements is simply an evidence of 
the fact that in ordinary reactions these 
two elements act as a unit, that is, an 
ion. 

The following formulas will further 
illustrate the general principle: — 

+ — +_+—+ — 
AgNO»+NaCl-»AgCl+NaNoi 

+ + 

H,0+Cl.-*2HCl+0 



+ — ++ — 
BaCU+KHSOr 



+ - +— +- 
•>BaS04+KCl + HCl 



In the last reaction, the electro-posi- 
tives K and H may seem to be in 
union, but this is not the case. Each 
is independently united to the SO4, 
which is a dyad. The formula show- 
ing the ionization might be written — 



K, 
H 



SO* 



Reversible Reactions. — Many reac- 
tions can take place in either direction, 
that is, the products under given con- 
ditions will under other conditions pro- 
duce the original substances. The 
experiments mentioned in the para- 
graph on "concentration" onp. 21 are 
instances. When steam is passed over 
hot iron the effect is represented thus : 

Fe 5 +4H*O^Fe 3 04+4H 3 



When hydrogen is passed over the 
iron oxid the reaction is 

Fe,04+4H 3 ^Fe 3 +4H,0 

Both actions can, therefore, be ex- 
pressed in one statement, thus : 

Fe 3 +4H 2 O^Fe 3 4 +4H a 

Usually one of the reactions is more 
likely to occur than the other and this 
may be indicated, if desired, by a 
heavier arrow. 



RADICLES 

A radicle is any group of atoms 
having unsatisfied valency ; the num- 
ber of the unsatisfied degrees is the 
valency of the radicle. The following 
formulas illustrate the principle. The 
degrees outside the parentheses indi- 
cate in each case the valency of the 
radicle, being the difference between 
the valencies of the constituent at- 



/ v 11 \ r / v 11 \ 1 / iv in \ 1 

v\ t oJ Vno,/ UnJ 

/ iv 11 \ 11 /in \ 1 / 1 iv \ in 

V CO/ VHO / VHC / 



The electrical relations of a radicle 
are generally determined by the elec- 
trical character of the preponderating 
valency, but not invariably. While 
the combining capacity and general 
functions are dependent on the un- 
saturated valency , yet, in chemical 
combinations, the whole molecule takes 
part, and hence the electrical char- 
acter is influenced by that of each 

. ( v I\ . 
atom present. Thus in I mjj ) !t mav 

seem that the nitrogen valency would 
only give to the radicle indifferent or 
intermediate electrical relations, but 
experiment shows that this is a group 
having distinctly positive affinities; 
the four atoms of positive hydrogen, 
though insufficient to saturate all of 
the nitrogen valency, yet impress on 
the molecule their function. 



Page one hundred tiventy-six 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



In many cases the influence of the 
preponderating valency is more de- 

• ( v " \ 

cided. Thus in ( -kjq J the oxygen 

valency is in excess, and the radicle 
is negative. 

The general chemical relations of 
radicles depend on ionization. If the 
compounds containing them ionize 
readily and to a large extent, the so- 
lutions will be active and each radicle 
will take part in reactions as an ele- 
ment. If the compound does not ion- 
ize the radicles will not react readily. 

The compounds of carbon show 
very well the principle on which the 
valency of a radicle depends : 



I V 




H«C. 


. . Saturated. 


H 3 C. 


. . Monad. 


H a C. 


..Dyad. 


HC. 


. .Triad. 


C .. 


. . Tetrad. 



The last is the free element which 
might be regarded as the final radicle, 
so that there are elemental radicles 
and compound radicles, but the term 
is usually limited to the latter sig- 
nification. 

The following formulas give the 
compositions, valencies and names of 
some important radicles : 



v I 

NH«. 
in i 
NH,. 
i ii 
HO . 
i ii 
HS . 
iv in 
NC . 
I iv 
H,C. 

IV II 

CO . 



. . . Ammonium Monad 

. . . Amidogen Monad 

. . . Hydroxyl Monad 

. . Hydrosulphyl Monad 

. . Cyanogen Monad 

. . Methyl Monad 

. . Carbonyl Dyad 



ACIDS, BASES AND SALTS 

Acids are compounds that ionize so 
as to give one or more ions contain- 
ing hydrogen only. In all of them, 



in the non-ionized state, the hydrogen 
is united directly to negative elements. 
Two important classes of acids may 
be distinguished. 

Hydrogen acids — commonly called 
hydro-acids — 

HC1. . . .Hydrochloric acid. 
HBr. . . .Hydrobromic acid. 
HI . . . .Hydriodic acid. 
HF ....Hydrofluoric acid. 

Oxygen acids — 

H a CO«. 

HN0 3 . 
H 3 PO*. 

H 2 COa. 

HCIO*. 



.Sulphuric acid. 
. .Nitric acid. 
. Phosphoric acid. 
.Carbonic acid. 
.Chloric acid. 



Experiment shows that in each of 
the oxygen acids, the hydrogen is in 
more direct relation with some oxygen 
atoms than with the rest of the mole- 
cule, so that they may be formulated 
as follows : 

(HO) 2 S0 2 (HO)NO, (HO)sPO 
(HO) 2 CO (HO)CIO, 

It will be seen that in the non-ion- 
ized state all the hydrogen is in the 
form of hydroxyl. 

Hydrogen which is not in this con- 
dition in a molecule is not easily re- 
placed by a positive element. Thus 
in HC1 the hydrogen is easily replace- 
able by a positive, but not in NHs. 
The two conditions of hydrogen may 
co-exist in a molecule. In hypophos- 
phorous acid, H 3 P0 2 , experiment 
shows that only one hydrogen atom is 
easily replaceable, and the arrange- 
ment is considered to be as follows : 

H 

H— O— P— H 

il 
O 

Only one hydrogen atom is directly 
united to a strongly negative element. 

It must not be overlooked that the 
above formulas represent merely the 
non-ionized acids, and, therefore, show 
them in the inactive condition. On 



Page one hundred twenty-seven 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



complete ionization, hydrogen be- 
comes the positive ion, and the oxy- 
gen forms, with the other elements, 
the negative ion. Hydrogen, that is 
not associated in the original molecule 
with a negative substance or group, 



also remains in the negative ion. The 
number of hydrogen ions that are pro- 
duced from any given acid determines 
the basicity of the acid. The above 
formulas are re-arranged thus on ion- 
ization : 



Empirical 
Name formula 

Sulphuric acid H.SO4 

Nitric acid HNOi 

Phosphoric acid HsPC>4 

Carbonic acid H 3 CO> 

Chloric acid HCIO, 

Hypophosphorous acid..HiPOi 



Rational 


Ionization 




formula 


formula 

+ — 


Basicity 


(HO)=SO» 


H.SO« 


dibasic 


(HO)NO, 


H,NO, 


monobasic 


(HO).PO 


H s ,PO. 


tribasic 


(HO) 2 CO 


H 2 ,CO, 


dibasic 


(HO)CIO, 


H,C10 


monobasic 


(HO)PH,0 


H ,PH,O a 


monobasic 



Differences in the position and func- 
tion of hydrogen in the same molecule 
are unusual in the inorganic acids, 
which generally have all their hydro- 
gen in either the hydroxyl position or 
in some similar relation, but nearly all 
organic acids contain hydrogen which 
is not replaceable. 

In thiocarbonic acid, H 2 CSs, in 
which sulphur takes the place of oxy- 
gen, the non-iodized arrangement is 
(HS) a CS. Sulphur, selenium and tel- 
lurium may in the same manner take 
the place of oxygen in the molecule 
and render the hydrogen replaceable. 
When the molecule contains bodies 
of high positive character, the power 
of replacing the hydrogen by other 
positives does not exist, unless sev- 
eral molecules of oxygen (or S, Se 
or Te) are also present. It appears 
then that as the proportion of oxygen 
is increased in any molecule, without 
other change, its acid character will 
be gradually developed. Thus, 
Cr(OH) 3 possesses no acid character, 



but if two atoms of oxygen are added 
to the chromium, making (HO) 2 Cr0 2 , 
that is, H 2 Cr04, a well marked acid, 
chromic acid, is produced. It is then 
according to the number and position 
of the negative elements in any mole- 
cule that the function of the hydrogen 
is determined. When strongly posi- 
tive elements are present, either with- 
out negatives or with only relatively 
few atoms of them, the hydrogen is 
not easily replaceable by positives, the 
body is not an acid, but has power to 
interact with acids and neutralize them. 
Thus the above mentioned compound, 
Cr(HO) 3 , will dissolve easily in sul- 
phuric acid and neutralize it, that is, 
take away the characteristic properties 
of the acid, the sour taste, effect on 
organic colors (see below > and gen- 
erally chemical activity. Substances 
that act in this manner are called 
bases. The action in the case of 
chromous hydroxid and sulphuric acid 
would be thus represented : 

Cr(HO) a +H a SO«-»CrSO«+2H,0. 



Page one hundred twenty-eight 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



The activity of these bases depends 
like the activity of acids upon the 
ionization. The hydrogen in the pres- 
ent case, however, does not become the 



positive ion, but remains with the oxy- 
gen (or other member of the oxygen 
group). The following examples will 
illustrate these points : 



Name 



Empirical Rational 
formula formula 



Solium hydroxid NaHO NaOH 

Barium hydroxid BaH.Oa Ba(OH), 



Ionization 
formula 
+ — 
Na.OH 
Ba,(OH), 



Acidicity 

monacid 
diacid 



When acids and bases are mixed, 
mutual re-arrangements occur. The 
hydrogen ions of the acid combine 
with the hydroxyl ions of the base ; 
the positive ions of the base combine 
with the negative ions of the acid. 
The resulting compounds as will be 
seen by the annexed reactions are 
water and a compound derived from 
the acid by substitution of its hydro- 
gen by some other positive. These 
latter compounds are called "salts." 
If the amount of base is not sufficient 
for complete reaction, only part of the 
hydrogen ion of the acid is removed, 
and an acid salt is produced. If the 
amount of base is larger than required, 



some of it is left unchanged. The 
reacting substances are largely ion- 
ized, but one of the products, water, 
is but slightly ionized ; it follows that 
a discharge of energy must occur in 
such reactions. This, is usually mani- 
fested in the form of heat, reac- 
tions of the type shown below be- 
ing always attended by evolution of 
heat. Such a reaction is termed exo- 
thermic. Reactions attended by ab- 
sorption of heat (which are unusual) 
are termed endothermic. Care must 
be taken not to confuse the term "salt" 
with the common name of sodium 
chlorid. 

Illustrative reactions : 



Base 


Acid 


Salt 


Water 


NaHO 


+ HC1 


-*NaCl 


+ H 3 


NaHO 


+ H 2 SO< 


^NaHSO< 


+ H 2 


2NaHO 


+ H 2 SO< 


->Na 2 S04 


+2H,0 


KHO 


+ HNO3 


->KN0 3 


+ H 2 


Cu(HO) 


+ H 2 SO, 


^CuSO* 


+2H a O 


BI(HO), 


+3HC1 


->BiCl. 


+3H 2 


Fe a (HO) e +3H 2 SO, 


^Fe.(S0 4 )3+6H a O 



A salt may, therefore, be defined as 
the result of the interaction of an acid 
with a base. 

Since the function of the base in 
these reactions depends essentially on 
the strongly positive element, it is not 
necessary to have it in association with 



hydroxyl. The formation of salts may 
take place by the action of acids upon 
oxids, upon the elements themselves, 
and also upon compounds containing 
weaker acid radicles than those exist- 
ing in the acid employed. Zinc sul- 
phate, for instance, may be made by 
any of the following methods : 



Zn +H,SO«-»ZnSO»+H, 

ZnO +H 2 S04-^ZnS0 4 +H a O 

Zn ( HO ) ,+ H«SO.-»ZnSO*+2H»0 
ZnCO, +H,S04->ZnSO«+H,0-+CO, 



Page one hundred twenty-nine 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Theoretically, therefore, and fre- 
quently practically, there may be many 
methods of producing salt, but in 
many cases the affinity of the acid 
radicle is not sufficient to bring about 
the change, unless the positive is either 
in the form of oxid or hydroxid. 
Thus the reaction — 

Ag+HCl-^AgCl + H 
will not occur, but either 

AgHO + HCl-*AgCl+ H 2 0, 
or Ag a O+2HCl-^AgCl+2H,0 

will occur. 

Intimately connected with this 
subject is the meaning of the term 
acid, alkaline and neutral, as applied 
to the conditions of substances. If a 
drop of sulphuric acid is added to a 
solution of litmus, the liquid turns 
red; by the addition of sodium hy- 
droxid the color will be restored. The 
sodium hydroxid is a base ; it has in- 
teracted with the acid and deprived it 
of its chemical activity. By this com- 
bination the sodium hydroxid is also 
neutralized. 

Litmus is a color much used for 
these tests. It becomes red on the 
addition of an acid, and has the blue 
color restored on the addition of a 
base. It is usually sold in the blue 
condition, and is used either in solu- 
tion in water or in the form of litmus 
paper — strips of paper soaked in the 
solution and dried. 

A number of artificial colors from 
coal-tar products are now used as sub- 
stitutes for litmus. Among these are : 
Phenolphthalein— red when alkalin, 

nearly colorless when acid. 
Congo red — red when alkalin, blue 

when acid. 
Lakmoid — similar changes to litmus. 
Methyl orange — pale yellow with 

acids, pink with alkalies. 
These color reactions are of import- 
ance in practical chemical operations, 
but they have little value in determin- 
ing the theoretical relations between 
acids, bases and salts, since there) are 
substances which are theoretically 
acids, yet act on the colors as if alka- 
lin, and the reverse. 



The ion of an acid is sometimes 
called the residue of the acid. For 
instance SO* is the residue of sul- 
phuric acid; N0 3 is the residue of 
nitric acid. The acid radicle proper 
is the body obtained by deducting all 
the hydroxyl or hydrosulphyl, etc., 
from the acid. S0 2 is the radicle pro- 
per of sulphuric acid. This distinction 
in nomenclature is convenient in ex- 
pressing some of the reactions of these 
acids. Some writers now use the word 
"ion" as a termination indicating a 
negative ion, thus, SO* is called "sul- 
phion," N0 3 , "nitrion." 

Salts may be divided into four 
classes : 

Normal Salts, in which the hydro- 
gen of the acid is replaced by a single 
element, according to its valencies. 
The acids themselves are normal salts 
of hydrogen : 

Na 2 CS 3 Sodium thicarbonate 

KNOa Potassium nitrate 

Mixed Salts, in which two or more 
positives are present. When some re- 
placeable hydrogen remains, the body 
is usually called an acid salt: 

HKCOs . . Acid potassium carbonate 
KNaSO*. .Sodium potassium sulphate 

Double Salts, in which two complete 
salts of either of the above classes 
unite to form -a definite compound, 
which is generally distinctly crystal- 
line: 

FeSO*, ( NIL) 2SO4. .Ammonium fer- 
rous sulphate 

Oxy Salts (sometimes called basic 
salts or sub salts), in which oxygen 
takes the place of one or more of the 
acid radicles : 

BiN0 3 Bismuth oxynitrate 

SbOCl Antimony oxychlorid 

VOLUME COMBINATION 

If equal volumes of elements in the 
gaseous state are weighed under the 
same conditions, the relative weights 
will, with a few exceptions, be in ex- 
act proportion to their atomic weights. 
For instance, a vessel which holds 



Page one hundred thirty 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



1.008 grain of hydrogen (about 47 cu- 
bic inches) will hold the following 
quantities of other elements, it being 
understood that all the bodies are in 
the state of gas and at the same tem- 
perature and pressure : 







Wt. of Vol. 






Equal to 


Element 


Atomic Wt. 


Vol. of H 





16 


16 


s 


32 


32 


CI 


35.46 


35.46 


I 


126.9 


126.9 


Br 


80 


80 



Some of the elements cannot be con- 
verted into vapor, and consequently 
cannot be compared on this system. 
Among these are carbon, silicon and 
many of the common metals. These 
practically resist the action of the 
highest temperature which can be used 
in such experiments. 

A few elements show results which 
are exceptional ; among these are — 

Wt. of Vol. 

Equal to 

Element Atomic Wt. Vol. of H 

As 75 150 

P 31 62 

Hg 200 100 

In the case of phosphorus and ar- 
senic the weight is twice as great as 
analogy would require; in the case of 
mercury, half as great. 

The following general law has been 
established by mathematical and phys- 
ical investigation : Equal volumes of 
elementary gases contain equal num- 
bers of molecules. 

The relative weight of the atoms 
of each element may be determined by 
this law. If a given volume of hydro- 
gen contains, say, 1000 molecules, the 
same volume of oxygen will contain 
the same number ; and as the oxygen 
volume is 15.88 times as high as the 
hydrogen, it is clear that the weight of 
es'di molecule of oxygen will be 15.88 
times that of each molecule of hydro- 
gen. The molecules of hydrogen and 
oxygen each contain two atoms, 
hence, the atomic weights will also be 
in the proportion of 15.88 to 1. 



In gases the spaces between the mol- 
ceules are very large in proportion to 
the size of the great molecules them- 
selves. Elementary gases combine so 
as to produce a volume of gas which 
is equal to twice the volume that 
would be occupied by one atomic 
weight of hydrogen. The following 
instances are taken from among the 
commonest chemical compounds : 

One volume of H and one volume 
of CI combine and produce two vol- 
umes of HC1. 

Two volumes of H and one volume 
of O combine and produce tzvo vol- 
umes of H 2 0. 

Three volumes of H and one volume 
of N combine and produce two vol- 
umes of NH3. 

Some examples will make this plain : 

47 cubic inches of H, weighing 1 
grain, will combine with 47 cubic 
inches of CI, weighing 35.5 grains, 
and produce 94 cubic inches (i. e., 
47 X 2) of hydrochloric acid (HC1), 
weighing 36.5 grains. The ratio of 
weights of equal bulks of hydrochloric 
acid and hydrogen is not 94 to 1, for 
the figure 94 is calculated for a mole- 
cule of HC1, while 1 represents an 
atom of H. Molecule must be com- 
pared to molecule, that is HC1 to HH, 
hence 94 to 2 :: 47 to 1. By dividing 
36.5 by 2 the weight of a quantity of 
hydrochloric acid equal to one atomic 
weight of hydrogen — viz., 18.25, is ob- 
tained. This figure 18.2 represents, 
therefore, the density or specific grav- 
ity compared to hydrogen. 

94 cubic inches of H, weighing 2 
grains, will combine with 47 cubic 
inches of O, weighing 15.88 grains, 
and produce 94 cubic inches of steam, 
H 2 0, weighing 17.88 grains. Dividing 
17.88 by 2, gives, as before, the density 
of steam compared to hydrogen — viz., 
8.94. 

47 cubic inches of N, weighing 14 
grains, will combine with 141 cubic 
inches (47 X 3) of H, weighing 3 
grains, and form 94 cubic inches of 
ammonia, NHs, weighing 17 grains ; 
and this weight, divided by 2, gives 
8.5 as the density of ammonia com- 
pared to hydrogen. 



Page one hundred thirty-one 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



These principles are employed in 
determining the formulas of bodies. 
N and O combine to form a body 
called nitric oxid, which is sometimes 
written NO and sometimes N 2 2 . The 
following calculation will show which 
is correct : 

The formula NO requires — 

One volume of N = 14 
One volume of O = 16 

30 -r- 2 = 15 30 

The formula N 3 3 will require — 

Two volumes of N == 28 
Two volumes of O == 32 



H 2 (2 X 1) = 2 
O =-16 



60 



30 



60 



In the first instance the formula 
would indicate a vapor about fifteen 
times as heavy as hydrogen ; in the 
second case thirty times as heavy. Ex- 
periment shows that the gas is about 
fifteen times as heavy as hydrogen, 
and therefore justifies the formula 
NO. 

Since the introduction of a large 
number of atoms into a molecule does 
not increase the bulk occupied by a 
collection of such molecules, it seems 
reasonable to assume that the inter- 
molecular spaces are much larger than 
the molecules themselves. 

STOICHIOMETRY 

This term (from two Greek words, 
which together have, figuratively, the 
meaning "to measure primary things") 
is applied to calculations of the com- 
position of compounds and of amounts 
required for reactions. 

The exact quantitative relations 
which exist in compounds, and the fact 
that symbols refer to definite propor- 
tions of the elements, permits the use 
of the method of simple proportion to 
calculate the amounts involved in, or 
resulting from, any chemical combina- 
tion. If it is required to know how 
much hydrogen is contained in 40 
parts by weight of water, the formula 
expressed in quantitative ratio is as 
follows : 



H 3 



= 18 



That is, 18 parts by weight of water 
contain 2 parts of hydrogen. Hence, 
18 : 2 : : 40 : x; the fourth term will 
be the amount required. Percentage 
composition is ascertained by the same 
rule. The percentage of oxygen in 
water is obtained by the following 
proportion : 

18: 16:: 100:* 

In ordinary calculations it is rarely 
necessary to use the axact fractional 
atomic weights. The nearest whole 
number will suffice. In a close calcu- 
lation it would be necessary to use 
1.00075 as the atomic weight of hydro- 
gen. 

In the last example, the fourth term 
will be found to be 88.8, which is 
therefore the percentage required. Any 
chemical formula or reaction may be 
calculated to exact expression of 
weight. To determine, for instance, 
how much potassium iodid is required 
to exactly precipitate 1 gram of mer- 
curic chlorid, the reaction, that is, the 
equation, must first be stated. This is 
as follows : 

HgCl a + 2 KI=2KCl + HgI a 
The proportions by weights are: 



Hg 
CI, 



=200 
= 70.92 



K = 39.1 
I =126.9 



HgCl«=270.92 



KI=166.0 



The proportion will be, as the mol- 
ecular weight of the mercuric chlorid 
is to that of the potassium iodid, with 
which it reacts, so is the given weight 
to that of the iodid required. Care 
must always be taken to use the mol- 
ecular weights in the full proportion. 
In the present calculation, for instance, 
the molecular weight of the iodid must 
be doubled, because the chlorid reacts 
with two molecules. Hence, 

HgCU 2KI 
270.92:332(166X2)::!:* 



Page one hundred thirty-two 



THE BARBERS'- MANUAL 



Calculations of this character are 
of value to the student, who should 
practise them. Among other points of 
interest, they will serve to impress on 
the mind that formulas give only ra- 
tios by special factors, and do not 
convey directly the simple proportion. 
Thus, hydrogen iodid, HI, does not 
contain equal quantities of H and I, 
but only equal numbers of atoms. The 
calculation shows this : 

H = 1 
I =126.9 



HI=127.9 

Therefore, 

HI I 

127.9: 126.9:: 100:99.1 per cent iodin; 

by which it is seen that hydrogen iodid 
contains less than 1 per cent of hydro- 
gen. 

GROUPS OF ELEMENTS 

A table of known elements with 
symbols, and atomic weights will be 
found on p. 98. The following is a 
summary of the characteristics of 
some well-marke*d groups. Some 
elements have properties that ally 
them to several groups. They are 
"connecting links." Thus, fluorin 
connects the oxygen group with the 
chlorin group, boron connects the 
nitrogen group with the iron group, 
through aluminum. 

1. The Argon Group, often called 
the zero group, on account of the ap- 
parent lack of chemical affinity, in- 
cludes helium, neon, argon, krypton 
and xenon. They are gases, existing 
in minute amounts in the atmosphere. 
Helium occurs in some minerals and 
in the emanations from radium. The 
members of the group form, so far as 
is at present known, no compounds, 
and, therefore, the valency is zero. 

2. The Potassium Group includes 
hydrogen, lithium, sodium, potas- 
sium, rubidium and sesium. They are 
positive monads, and have high affin- 
ity for members of the oxygen and 
chlorin groups. With oxygen most 
of them produce powerful corrosive 
compounds called the alkalies, and on 



this account are sometimes called the 
"alkali metals." In the periodic ar- 
rangement as usually given, copper, 
silver and gold are classed as an ac- 
cessory sub-group. Of these three, sil- 
ver shows the closest relation to the 
potassium group. 

3. The Calcium Group includes 
calcium, barium, strontium and radium. 
They are positive dyads, and form 
oxids which are slightly soluble in 
water, but much less caustic or cor- 
rosive than the alkalies proper, and 
are often called alkalin earths. Their 
sulphates, carbonates and phosphates 
are practically insoluble in water. 
Magnesium, zinc, cadmium and mer- 
cury are classed as an accessory sub- 
group. Magnesium is closest in its 
resemblance to the main group. Mer- 
cury connects the group with the first 
group by the resemblances of copper 
and mercury in many of their chemi- 
cal actions. Lead also has some re- 
lations to this group . In earlier 
classifications, the four elements, mag- 
nesium, calcium, strontium and barium 
constituted the group of "alkalin-earth 
metals." 

4. The Carbon Group includes car- 
bon, silicon and tin. They are tetrads, 
and generally positive. Boron, lead 
and platinum have some resemblances 
to this group. 

5. The Nitrogen Group includes 
nitrogen, phosphorus, arsenic, antimony 
and bismuth. They are of uneven 
valency, triads or pentads ; their elec- 
trical relations are irregular, but 
mostly positive. Boron and gold have 
some resemblances to this group. 

6. The Oxygen Group includes 
oxygen, sulph»r, selenium and tellu- 
rium. They are negative dyads. 
Chromium, molybdenum and uranium 
form an accessory sub-group. 

This system of classification will 
not be rig : dly followed in the des- 
cription of ihe elements and their com- 
pounds ; the most important substances 
will be described out of the regular 
order. 

In the description of elements, the 
atomic weights are given to the near- 
est fi'st decimal or when this is small, 
to the nearest whole number. 



Page one hundred thirty-three 



Lesson 



1. Muscles 

2. Nerves 

3. Bones of Face 

4. Bones of Head 

5. Salivary Glands 



Subject 

ANATOMY 

Embracing 



Ten 



6. Muscle Chart 

7. Nerve Chart 

8. Bone Chart 

9. Action 
10. Location 



CORRUOATOR SU 



Dilatator naris anterior 

dilatator nar;s posterior 

compressor narhim minor 

oepresso.; *l* nasi 



LEVATOR MENTI. — 




Muscles of the head, face, and neck. 
Page one hundred thirty-four 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



MUSCLES OF THE HEAD, FACE AND NECK 


NAME 


ORIGIN 


INSERTION 


ACTION 


Epicranius, or 
Occipito-frontalii 


Superior curved line of Oc- 
ciput and Mastoid process 
of temporal bone, also from 
eyebrow to root of nose 


The tendon which cov- 
ers the vortex of skull 


Moves scalp backward 
and forward 


Orbicularis 
Palpebrarum 


Internal margin of the or- 
bit 


External margin of 
orbit 


Closes eyelids 


Corrugator Supercilli 


Superciliary ridge of fron- 
tal bone 


Thick skin between eye- 
brows 


Draws eyebrows down- 
ward and inward 


Pyramidalis Nasi 


Compressor nasi 


Occipito Frontalis 


To depress the eyebrows 


Compressor Narium 


Skin of the cheek 


Insert in a thin skin 
over bridge of nose 


Compresses nostrils 


Levator Labii 
Superioris 


Lower margin of orbit 


Middle of upper lip 


Elevates upper lip 


Levator Labii Superi- 
oris Alae-que-nasi 


Nasal process of submaxil- 
lary bones 


Ala of the nose and up- 
per lip 


Elevates upper lip and 
dilates nostrils 


Dilator Naris Anterior 


Cartilage of ala 


Border of integument 
of ala 


Dilates nostrils 


Dilator Naris Posterior 


Nasal notch of upper max- 
illa 


Skin at margin of nose 


Dilates nostrils 


Compressor Narium 
Minor 


Located at upper portion of 

nose 


Upper part of depressor 
ali-nasi 


Compresses nostrils 


Depressor Ali-nasi 


Upper lip 


In septum and wing of 

nose 


Depresses nostrils 


Levator Anguli-oris 


Beneath orbital foranima 


Inserted in upper lip 


Raises angle of mouth 


Zygomaticus Major 


Malar bone 


Angle of mouth 


Raises lip outward 


Zygomaticus Minor 


Malar bone anteriorly 


Angle of mouth 


Raises lip outward 


Levator Menti 


Incissive fossa of man- 
dible 


Skin of chin 


Elevates chin 


Depressor Labii 
Inferioris 


External oblique line of 
mandible 


Angle of mouth 


Draws lower lip down- 
ward 


Depressor Anguli Oris 


External oblique line of 
mandible 


Angle of mouth 


Draws angle of mouth 
downward 


Orbicularis Oris 


Surrounds mouth ; is form- 
ed by fibers of several mus- 
cles 


Into its fellow at an- 
gles of mouth 


Presses lips together and 
pushes them outward 


Buccinator 


Alveolar arches of max- 
illae and mandible 


Orbicularis oris ; forms 
lateral walls of the 
mouth 


Compresses and inflates 
the cheeks 


Risorius 


Fascia over Masseter 

muscle 


Angle of mouth 


Draws corner of month 
back 


Masseter 


Upper part of Maxillae 


Lower part of inferior 
maxillary bone 


Raises lower jaw, presses 
it against upper; also 
grinds 


Temporal 


Temporal fossa and fascia 


Coronoid process of in- 
ferior maxillary bone 


Raises lower jaw ; presses 
it against upper 


Platysma Myoides 


On Deltoid and Pectaralis 


In lower jaw and angle 
of mouth 


Wrinkles the skin and 
depresses mouth 


Sternocleidomastoid 


Two heads from sternum 
and clavicle 


Mastoid process of the 
temporal bone 


Bends head forward and 

to one side ; also ro- 
tates head 


Omohyoid 


Upper border of Scapula 


Hyoid bone 


Depresses and retracts 
hyoid bone and assists 
in swallowing 


Retrahens Auriculan 
Posterior 


Mastoid process 


Cranial surface of the 
concha 


Retracts ear tip 


Attrahens Aurem 
Anterior 


Rises from occipito front- 
alis muscle 


Into projection in front 
of helix 


Raises the tip of the 
ear 


Attollens Aurem 
Superior 


Occipito frontalis 


In the upper part of 
ear 


Elevates tip of ear 


Trapezius 


Dorsal vertebra 


Inferior rig of occipito 
bone 


Draws head backward 
or sidewise 



Page one hundred thirty-five 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




Nerves Chart 



NERVES 

THE functions of the nervous system are 
numerous. Jt must control all visible 
movements; it must control many in- 
visible activities such as the secretions of 
the glands, movements of intestines, and the 
beating of the heart. 

However, it is more concerned with the 
higher functions, such as feeling, thinking. 
remembering, willing, and other mental acts. 

The functions of the nerves are to con- 
vey impulses. A nerve is a cord-like struc- 
ture bound together in a common sheath of 
connective tissues, which conveys impulses 
from one part of the body to another. 

There are motor and sensory nerves. The 
motor nerves are the nerves that move arm, 
foot or muscle. Motor nerves are com- 
posed chiefly of motor fibres and operate 
while the body is in action. 

The sensory nerves are the nerves that 



convey the sense of touch to the skin. 
Therefore, the nerves convey the sense of 
rest and relaxation in the facial massage. 
There are two distinct divisions to the 

nervous system. 

The Cerebro-Spinal and the Sympathetic 
us System. 

The Cerebro-Spinal Nervous_ System con- 
sists of the brain and special cord and 
spinal nerves. It controls the speech, taste, 
and the sight, and the voluntary muscles 
are governed by it. 

The Sympathetic Nervous System acts on 
the stomach and bowels, circulation, diges- 
tion, and skin, and the involuntary muscles 
are under its control. 

Motions are voluntary and involuntary, 
but all are under the control of the nervous 
system. Each spinal nerve has two roots, 
the dorsal, which is sensory, and the vent- 
oral, which is motor. 

There are twelve cranial nerves. 



Page one hundred thirty-six 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



NERVES OF HEAD AND FACE 



NAME 



1st Cranial 
Nerve, Olfactory 



2nd Cranial 
Nerve, Optic 



3rd Cranial 

Nerve, Motor 

Oculi 



FUNCTION 



Special nerve of 
smell 



Special nerve of 
sight 



ORIGIN 



Olfactory bulb 



Cortical center 
in Occipital lobe 



This is purely a mo- 
tor nerve and has to 
do with the motion 
of the eye 



4th Cranial 
Nerve, Trochlear 



Sth Cranial 
Nerve, Trifacial, 
or Trigeminus 



6th Cranial 
Nerve, Abducens 



7th Cranial 
Nerve, Facial 



8 th Cranial 
Nerve, Auditory 



9th Cranial 

Nerve, Glossa- 

pharyngeal 



Also nerve of mo- 
tion. Acts upon su- 
perior oblique mus- 
cle of the eye 



Nerve of motion, 
sensation and taste 



Motor nerve 



This is a motor 
nerve. It controls 
secretion of mu- 
cous membranes of 
nose, supplies soft 
and hard palates. 
Controls taste 



This nerve supplies 
the inner ear ; it 
controls hearing 



This is a vasomo- 
tion nerve ; controls 
the sense of taste. 
The pharynx assists 
in swallowing 



Floor of Aque- 
duct of Sylvius 



Floor of Aque- 
duct of Sylvius 



Oblongata and 
floor of fourth 
ventricle 



DISTRIBUTION 
AND CONTROL 



Schneiderian Mem- 
brane 



Retina of eye 



BRANCHES 



20 branches 



None 



Muscles of eye ex- 
cept Superior Ob- 
lique, external rec- 
tus, Orbicularis pal- 
pegrarum 



Superior oblique of 
eye tentorium 



Fasciculus teres 



Floor of fourth 
Ventricle 



Restis 



Floor of the 
fourth Ventricle 



Lachrymal gland, 
skin of forehead, up- 
per part of nose, 
cornea of eye, eye- 
lid, eyebrow, tongue, 
teeth, and skin of 



Controls external 
rectus muscle of eye 



Face, ear, palate 
and tongue 



Cochlea, Vestibule, 
canals 



Middle ear, phrynx, 
tonsils and tongue 



Inferior 
Superior 



Recurrent and term- 
inal 



3 branches, Opthal- 
mic, Superior and In- 
ferior Maxillary divi- 
sions 



Tympanic, Posterior 
Auricle, Digastric 
Stylo, Hyroid, Tern 
poral, Infraorbital 
Buccal, Supermaxil 
lary, Inframaxillary 



Cochlear, Vestibular 



Tympanic Cartoid, 
Pharyngeal, Muscu- 
lar Lingual, Tonsil- 
lar 



10th Cranial 

Nerve, Pneumo- 

gastric 



This is a nerve of 
sensation and mo- 

ti"n 



Floor of the 
fourth Ventricle 



Ear, pharynx, lar- 
ynx, heart, lungs, 
esophagus, and 
stomach 



Auricular Pharyn- 
geal, Laryngeal, Car- 
diac, Pulmonary, Es- 
ophageal, Gastric, 
Pepatic, Communi- 
cating 



11th Cranial 

Nerve, Spinal 

Accessory 



This is a nerve of 
motion, controlling 
the vocal sounds. 



Floor of the 
fourth Ventricle 



Sternocleidomastoid, 
trapezius, pharynx, 
larynx 



12th Cranial 
Nerve, Hypo- 
glossal 



This is a motor and 
vasomotion nerve ; 
controls the lips, 
also the tongue. It 
assists in mastica- 
tion and articula- 
tion 



Floor of the 
fourth Ventricle 



Middle ear, pharynx, 
tonsils and tongue 



Tympanic Carotoid, 
Pharyngeal, Muscu- 
lar, Lingual 



Page one hundred thirty-seven 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




Bones of the Head and Face 



BONES OF THE HEAD 
CRANIUM, 8 



BONES OF THE FACE 



1 — Occipital, 1 
2— Parietal, 2 
3— Frontal, 1 



4 — Temporal, 2 
5 — Sphenoid, 1 
6— Ethnoid, 1 



Location: The Occipital is situ- 
ated at the back of the head. 

The two Parietals on either side 
of the head above the Temporal. 

The Frontal is situated over the 
forehead and resembles a cockle 
shell in form and consists of two 
portions, one a Vertical portion, also 
a Horizontal portion. 

The Temporals are situated on 
either side of the head, just below 
the Parietals. 



7— Nasal, 2 

8 — Superior Maxil- 
lary, 2 

9 — Lachrymal, 2 
10 — Malar, 2 
11— Palate, 2 



12— Inferior Turbi- 
nated, 2 

13 — Vomor, 1 

14 — Inferior Max- 
illary, 1 



The Sphenoid is situated at the 
anterior of the base of the skull and 
articulates with all of the other 
cranial bones, which it binds firmly 
and solidly together. 

The Ethmoid is situated at the 
anterior fossa of the base of the 
skull, and is received into the Eth- 
moid notch. 

Inferior Maxillary is called by 
some authorities, the Mandible. 



Page one hundred thirty-eight 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



The nasal bones are two small 
oblong bones situated at the middle 
and upper part of the face forming 
the bridge of the nose. 

Superior Maxillary are two on 
either side of the face and form the 
upper jaw bones. They are the 
largest bones of the face, except 
the mandible, and are the ones that 
contain the upper teeth. 

Lachrymal are the smallest and 
most fragile bones of the face and 
are situated on either side at the 
front part of the inner walls of the 
orbit and resemble in form, size and 
thickness that of a finger nail. 

Malar are two bones situated on 
either side of the face at the upper 
and outer part of the face. They 
form the prominence of the cheek, 
part of the outer walls and floor of 
the orbit, and part of the Temporal 
and Zygomatic fossa. 

Palate are situated at the back 
part of the nasal fossa. They are 
wedged in between the superior 
maxillary bones and the Pterygoid 
process of the sphenoid bone. 

Inferior Turbinated are situated 
one on each side of the outer walls 
of the nasal fossa. Each consists of 
a layer of thin spongy bone curled 



upon itself, like a scroll, hence it 
gets its name (turbinated), and ex- 
tends horizontally along the outer 
walls of the nasal fossa immediately 
below the walls of the antrum. 

The Vomor resembles a plow 
shear, is a single bone, and is situ- 
ated at the back part of the nasal 
fossa, forming a part of the septum 
of the nose. 

Inferior Maxillary, also called the 
Mandible by some authorities, is 
the largest and strongest bone of the 
face, and it serves for the reception 
of the lower teeth. It consists of 
curved horizontal portion of the 
body, and two perpendicular por- 
tions called the remi, which join 
the back part of the body nearly 
at right angles. It is convexed in its 
general outline and curved some- 
what like a horse-shoe, and forms 
the lower jaw. Of these the upper 
and lower jaws are fundamental 
bones of mastication and the others 
are accessories for the chief function 
of the facial bones is to provide an 
apparatus for mastication, while sub- 
sidiary functions are to provide for 
sense organs (ear, nose, tongue), 
and a vestibule for the respiratory 
organs, and also the vocal organs. 



SALIVARY GLANDS 

We have six Salivary Glands, 
three on each side which are very 
important, in the manipulation of 
the muscles of the face. These 
glands pass their secretion into the 
mouth. The names of these glands 
are as follows: Two parotid, two 
submaxillarys, and two sublinguals. 

PAROTID GLANDS 

The largest of the salivary glands 
varies from 15 to 30 grams in 
weight. It is located below and in 
front of the ear. From the Zygo- 
matical arch above to the Ramus 
of the jawbone below. It is wedge 
shape with three surfaces and cov- 
ered with the skin and fascia of the 
lower part of the platysma. The 
anterior front part overlaps the 
front of the masseter muscle, and 
extends back to the posterior or 
back of the Ramus of the Mandible, 
with the Posterior part of the Platy- 
sma muscle, the posterior or back 



part is in contact with Sterno-Cleido 
Mastoid muscle. 

It receives its lymphatics from the 
external auditory. The soft palate, 
and the nasal fossae. The parotid 
gland has a duct known as Stet- 
sons duct. This duct is formed by 
a number of smaller ones origin- 
ating at the anterior border and 
forming one large one, about the 
size of a quill emerging from the an- 
terior border of the gland crossing 
the massiter muscle and turns im- 
mediately forward between the mu- 
cous memberane and the ramus of 
the jawbone to penetrate the fatty 
portions of the cheek and terminates 
into the mouth opposite the second 
Molar tooth. It receives its sen- 
sory fibres from the Otic, Ganglion 
conveying fibres from the Glosso- 
pharyngeal, the Oricular Temporal 
branch of the fifth cranial nerve and 
the motor branch of the carotid- 
plexes. 



Page one hundred thirty-nine 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




Descriptive Locations of Salivary Glands 



1. Internal Parotid. 

2. Accessory Parotid. 

3. Duct of Parotid Gland. 

4. Bristle inserted into duct. 

5. Frenulum Lingue. 

6. Major Lingual. 

7. Sub-lingual Gland. 
Sub-lingual Duct. 
Hyoid Muscle. 

SUBMAXILLARY GLAND 



9. 



This is considerable smaller than 
the Parotid. It only weighs from 
7 to 10 grams and is about the size 
of an ordinary walnut flattened out. 
It consists of two parts, a superficial 
part and a deep process. The larg- 
er portion is located in the dia-gas- 
tric triangle, and presents three 
surfaces, superficial, deep, and lat- 
eral. Superficial portion lies just 
beneath the Platysma muscle and 
the deep fascia which forms a tri- 
angular socket around it. It is 
crossed by branches of the facial 
nerve. The lateral surface is small- 
est of the three. It lies about the 
middle of the mandible or the jaw- 
bone. The posterior or back portion 
is in contact with the Milohyoid 



10. Anterior Belly of the Digastric Muscle. 

11. Deep portion of Sub-Maxillary Glands. 

12. Parotid Gland. 

13. Masseter Muscle. 

14. Sterno-cleido-mastoid Muscle. 

15. Posterior Belly of the Digastric Muscle. 

16. Lingual Nerve. 

17. Sub-Maxillary Gland drawn back. 

18. Loop of Fascia. 

19. Hyoid Bone. 

muscle and behind the hyoglossus 
and inferior belly of the Digastric. 
It also contains a duct known as 
Wartons duct which springs from 
the deep portion and passes forward 
into the surface of the deep lobe and 
opens by a small orifice or opening 
of the side of the frenulum of the 
tongue. 

SUBLINGUAL GLAND 

The sublingual gland is the small- 
est of the three glands. It is situ- 
ated beneath the mucous membrane 
of the floor of the mouth at the side 
of the frenulum lingue, in contact 
with the sublingual depression on 
the inner surface of the mandible. 
It is a narrow flat shape, somewhat 
like an almond and weighs nearly 
two grams. 



Page one hundred forty 



Lesson 



Subject 

ANATOMY 



Eleven 



Continued 



1. Circulation 

2. Heart Action 

3. Lungs 

4. Nerve Supply 

5. Blood Vessels 



Embracing 



6. Arteries 

7. Pulse 

8. Digestion 

9. Respiration 
10. Glands 



We are indebted for this article to 
Edgar B. Wilson, D. C, Ph. C. 



THE GENERAL PLAN OF 
THE CIRCULATION 

THE circulation of the blood is 
brought about by a complicated 
series of tubes and channels, ex- 
tending through every portion of 
the body, and all communicating 
with each other and with a power- 
ful muscular central organ called 
the heart. The tubes are called, 
according to their structure, size, 
and function, Arteries, Veins, and 
Capillaries. 




Structure of Heart 



THE HEART 

The heart is a strong, hollow, 
muscular organ, lying behind the 
breast-bone with its greater portion 
to the left of it. It is shaped some- 
what like a cone, with both ends 
rounded, and the larger end directed 
upward and toward the right. The 
lower end, or apex, is free to move 
in any direction, not being attached 
to anything, while the upper and 
larger end is held in place by the 
large blood vessels which are con- 
nected with it, and also with the 
spinal column. The whole organ is 
covered with serous membrane 
called the pericardium, and lies in 
a cavity which is also lined with a 
serous membrane. Its constant 



movements can go on with the 
slightest amount of friction. 

In order to understand the ac- 
tion of the heart, it is necessary to 
know, first, that there is a double 
action or circulation going on in 
the body at the same time. At 
every contraction of the heart, a 
portion of the blood is thrown into 
the lungs and another portion into 
the remainder of the body, and 
these two portions never mingle 
with each other. To be more pre- 
cise, and follow a particular mass 
of blood in its course through the 
body, we may state it thus: The 
blood starts from a certain part of 
the heart; it goes directly to the 
lungs; then it returns to the heart, 



Page one hundred forty-one 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



but to a different part of the or- 
gan; then it goes out of the heart 
to the arteries to what is called 
the general circulation, i. e., to all 
parts of the body, excepting the 
lungs. Thence it is collected by 
the veins, and returned to the heart. 
At the next contraction it goes to 
the lungs again, and begins the 
same process. So that in this way 
all of the blood passes through the 
lungs, and visits all parts of the 
body; but in doing this it visits and 
passes through the heart twice. In 
short, it flows (1) from the heart to 
the lungs; (2) back to the heart; 




The Heart 



(3) to the rest of the body; (4) back 
to the heart. Thus there are two 
systems of circulation, one called 
the pulmonary circulation, from the 
heart to the lungs and back again; 
the other, the general circulation, 
from the heart to the body and 
back again. 

The double and simultaneous cir- 
culation cannot be brought about 
by a heart containing but one cav- 
ity. And, accordingly, we find that 
the heart is divided by a muscular 
partition, running lengthwise of the 
organ from front to the rear, into 
two parts of nearly equal size, 
called the right and left sides of the 
heart. The right side carries the 



pulmonary circulation, and the left 
side the general circulation. So 
that the course of blood is as fol- 
lows: From the right side of the 
heart to the lungs; thence from the 
lungs to the left side of the heart; 
thence from the left side of the 
heart to all parts of the body; 
thence back to the right side of the 
heart. If this order of circulation 
be carefully observed, it will be 
seen that the right side of the heart 
never contains anything but dark 
venous blood, and the left side al- 
ways contains bright or arterial 
blood. 

Each side of the heart is divided 
into two cavities, making four in 
the whole organ. These cavities are 
called the auricles and ventricles. 
The ventricles constitute the greater 
part of the heart, and it is in their 
walls that the greatest muscular 
power is located. The auricles are 
the smaller cavities, situated on the 
upper extremity of the organ, and 
their walls are much thinner and 
weaker than the walls of the ven- 
tricles. The blood passes from the 
veins into the auricles, from the 
auricles into the ventricles, and from 
the ventricles it is forced out into 
the body. The course of the blood, 
then, is from the body in general 
through the veins to the right auri- 
cle; from the right auricle to the 
right ventricle; from the right ven- 
tricle to the lungs; from the lungs 
to the left auricle; from the left 
auricle to the left ventricle; from 
the left ventricle out to the body 
in general, whence it is collected by 
the veins and brought back to the 
right auricle, to begin the same 
course. 

At the mouth of the veins, where 
they empty into the auricles, there 
are no valve, and they are not 
really needed at this point, for the 
auricles do not contract with much 
force, and as there is always a cur- 
rent in the veins running toward 
the heart, and as the ventricles lie 
below the auricles, the blood nat- 
urally flows into the ventricles, 
where it meets with no resistance, 
rather than backward, where it 



Page one hundred forty-two 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




Plan of Circulation 



would meet with considerable, hav- 
ing to oppose the force of gravity 
and also the current in the veins. 
In this manner the ventricles be- 
come filled with blood, and, when 
they contract, the case is very dif- 
ferent. Here there is an enormous 
pressure to overcome. The right 
ventricle must contract with force 
sufficient to send its contents into 
the lungs, pushing before it the 
column of blood already in the ves- 
sel. The left ventricle has to con- 
tract with a force sufficient to send 
its contents to the remote parts of 
the body, also pushing along the 
blood which is already in the ves- 
sels. On the other hand, the re- 
sistance backwards toward the veins 
is not strong, and, even supposing 
that the resistance were equal in 
both directions, it is plain that the 
circulation would soon come to an 
end. The ventricles in contracting 
would force blood backward into 
the arteries, and then, when the 
heart relaxed the blood would flow 
back again into the ventricles from 



both directions. This danger is 
averted by the introduction of four 
sets of Valves, one between each 
auricle and ventricle, and one at the 
opening of the ventricle into the 
arteries, through which the blood 
passes during its contraction. The 
valves of the heart are double folds 
of serous membrane which lines all 
the cavities of the organ, and are 
stiffened somewhat by a few fibers 
which run between the folds. All 
of the valves have three flaps, ex- 
cepting the one which separates the 
left auricle from the left ventricle, 
and this has only two. 

The Valves are all so consti- 
tuted as to allow the blood to pass 
only in one direction. The valves 
between the auricles and ventricles 
will allow blood to pass from the 
auricles into the ventricles, but not 
from the ventricles back into the 
auricles; and the valve at the mouth 
of the arteries will allow blood to 
pass from the ventricles into the ar- 
teries, but not from the arteries 
back into the ventricles. 

The large veins, by which all of 
the blood from the general circula- 
tion is poured into the right auricle, 
are called the Vena Cavae (i. e., the 
hollow veins). The larger artery, 
by which the blood passes from the 
right ventricle to the lungs, is called 
the Pulmonary Artery; the large 
veins, by which the blood returns 
from the lungs into the left auricle, 
are called the Pulmonary Veins; 
and the large artery, by which the 
blood goes out from the left ven- 
tricle to all parts of the body, is 
called the Aorta. 

The blood then, coming from all 
parts of the body into the veins, 
enters through the Vena Cavae into 
the right auricle; when the auricle 
is filled, its walls contract, and the 
blood passes into the Pulmonary 
Artery, its return into the auricle 
being prevented by the closure of 
the valves between the auricle and 
the ventricle. The blood then goes 
through the lungs, and becomes 
changed into arterial blood. It re- 
turns to the heart into the left aur- 
icle, and passes from there into the 



Pane one hundred forty-three 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



left ventricle. The contraction of 
the ventricle then forces the blood 
into the aorta, its return into the 
auricle being prevented by the 
valves, from the aorta at the mouth 
of the pulmonary artery and the 
aorta prevent the blood which has 
entered them during the heart's 
contraction from flowing back into 
the cavity of the ventricle which 
has become relaxed. 

The contraction of the heart does 
not run successively from one aur- 
icle to the corresponding ventricle, 
and then from the other auricle to 
the other ventricle, but the con- 
traction of both sides of the heart 
is simultaneous. It begins at the 
auricle and extends downward un- 
til the ventricles are both firm and 
hard and reduced to their smallest 
size. The organ then becomes re- 
laxed, and is for an exceedingly 
short time quiet. During this stage 
of relaxation the auricles are be- 
ing filled with blood from the veins, 
and there is also a current running 
into the ventricles from the auricles. 
During the stage of contraction the 
blood is being forced into the cir- 
culation through the aorta and pul- 
monary artery. 

The alternate contractions and re- 
laxations of the heart are accom- 
panied by sounds, which are very 
audible to any one who applies his 
ear to the region of the heart in a 
living person. These sounds are 
two in number, the first beat be- 
ing a prolonged rumbling sound, 
and the second sound is short and 
sharp. The first sound is made 
during the time the heart is con- 
tracting and the second sound is 
just at the end of the contraction 
or beginning of relaxation. The 
first sound is supposed to be pro- 
duced by the closing of the Large 
Valves between the auricles and 
ventricles, which occurs just at the 
moment when this sound begins, 
and partly by the contraction of 
the muscular fibers of the heart. 
The second sound is positively 
known to be produced by the clos- 
ing of the pulminary and aorta 
valves. It is by the variation in 



distinctness and quality of these 
sounds, and the addition of other 
sounds to them, that physicians are 
enabled to determine with wonder- 
ful accuracy the condition of the 
valves of the heart. 

THE NERVE SUPPLY TO THE 
HEART 

THE heart is plentifully supplied 
with nerves, which regulate its 
movement. One set belongs to the 
cerebro-spinal system and have the 
power to check or arrest the heart's 
action, and are therefore called the 
inhibitory nerves of the heart. An- 
other set, having an opposite func- 
tion, i. e., that of increasing the 
heart's function or action, rather, 
are called the accelerator nerves. 
If the inhibitory nerve is destroyed 
or temporarily paralyzed, the pulsa- 
tions of the heart are suddenly in- 
creased. If the accelerator nerve is 
paralyzed, the heart ceases to beat. 
The contractions of the heart take 
place with regulation, and average 
in the adult about seventy beats 




Nerve Supply to the Heart 



Page one hundred forty-four 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



per minute. The rate is higher in 
women and children than in men. 
The heart pulsations appear to be 
slower in proportion as the indi- 
vidual is cool and deliberate in his 
judgment. The pulse of Napoleon 
Bonaparte is said to have averaged 
only forty-four to the minute, and 
is one of the slowest on record. 
Sudden emotions may increase its 
rapidity and force. On the other 
hand, they may cause it to stop for 
a moment altogether, to skip a beat, 
as it were, producing the sensation 
of "fluttering" at the heart. Al- 
though the action of the heart is 
thus affected by our feelings, it is 
beyond our control. Its pulsations 
are ceaseless and regular, until in- 
terrupted by disease or death. 

BLOOD VESSELS 

'"PHE heart, although a very pow- 
erful organ, would not be able 
to force the blood through the 
whole body and back to itself again 
without assistance, and this assist- 
ance is furnished by the structure 
of the blood vessels themselves. 
The blood leaves the heart by the 
arteries and comes back to it 
through the veins, and these two 
systems of vessels differ very much 
in their structure. 

The arteries are tubes with strong 
walls, described by anatomists as 
having three layers. The inner- 
most is a delicate, smooth mem- 
brane. The middle one is composed 
of elastic fibers of non-striated or 
involuntary muscular tissue. The 
outer one is made up of strong 
connective fiber tissue. Thus the 
walls of the arteries are very elas- 
tic, and if the tube is distended, it 
returns to its former size as soon 
as the internal pressure is removed. 

THE PULSE 

WHEN the heart contracts, its 
contents are driven with great 
force into the arteries, and as the 
blood already contained there re- 
sists somewhat the advance of 
fresh supply, the walls of the ar- 
teries are stretched to accommodate 
the mass of blood which is thrown 



into them. When the heart relaxes 
and the pressure from that direc- 
tion is removed, the elastic walls 
of the arteries react upon their con- 
tents, and, if it were not for the 
valves, would drive the blood, or a 
portion of it, back into the heart. 
At the slightest backward pressure, 
however, the valves close, and elas- 
ticity of the arteries thus gives the 
blood another impulse forward to- 
wards the surface of the body. The 
impulses given by the heart's ac- 
tion, together with that caused by 
the recovery of their natural posi- 
tion by the walls of the" arteries, 
gives rise to the pulse, which can 
be felt at any point in the body 
where an artery runs near enough 
to the surface. The common place 
of feeling for it is in the wrist, 
merely because that is the most 
convenient and accessible; but it 
may also be felt in the neck, in the 
temple, or in the upper arm. 

The large vessels, by which the 
blood leaves the heart, viz., the pul- 
monary artery and aorta, divide and 
subdivide continually, the branches 
grow smaller and smaller as they 
approach their termination. Their 
walls at the same time undergo a 
change in structure. The elastic 
tissue, which is so abundant in the 
larger arteries, gradually disappear 
as the vessel diminishes in size, and 
the muscular tissue becomes more 
prominent, until even this vanishes 
and the smallest blood vessels are 
called capillaries. They are com- 
posed of a thin membrane, not di- 
visible into layers. Thus the large 
arteries are very strong and very 
elastic, while the smaller ones lose 
in elasticity, but from the amount 
of muscular tissue they contain, are 
very contractile. 

The capillaries, in which the ar- 
teries finally end, are only about 
1/3000 of an inch in diameter — 
just large enough to allow the blood 
corpuscles to pass through them, 
so to speak, in single file. Their 
number is beyond computation. 
They are so thickly strewn in the 
blood that the point of a pin or fine 
cambric needle can not anywhere 
be inserted between them. As ev- 



Page one hundred forty-five 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



eryone knows, it is impossible to 
find an instrument with a point so 
fine as not to wound a blood ves- 
sel if introduced through the skin. 
These vessels are entirely indis- 
tinguishable to the naked eye, and 
before the discovery of the micro- 
scope it was a great problem for 
the anatomists to explain how the 
blood got from the arteries to the 
veins, as they could find no direct 
communication. 

After passing through the capil- 
laries, the blood enters the veins. 
These vessels contain in their walls 
much less muscular and elastic tis- 
sue than the arteries, and more con- 
nective tissue. The consequence 
of this is, that the walls of the veins 
are flacid and yielding, and if they 
are cut across, the sides fall to- 
gether and tend to close the open- 
ing. If an artery, on the other 
hand, is cut, the tube remains open 
and in a sense rigid, although, as 
will soon be shown, its caliber is 
somewhat diminished. The veins, 
very minute at first, gradually unite 
and become larger and larger, un- 
til finally all the veins of the gen- 
eral circulation form two large ves- 
sels called the Vena Cavae, which dis- 
charges its contents into the right 
auricle of the heart, one vena cava 
receiving all of the blood from the 
head and upper extremities, and the 
other that from the rest of the body. 

The circulation of the blood in 
the veins is brought about in three 
ways. In the first place, the act of 
respiration has its influence. When 
the chest is expanded by muscular 
action, every fluid which is outside 
of it tends to rush in and fill the 
enlarged cavity. The chief space 
is filled by air, as that is more per- 
fectly fluid and meets with the 
least resistance from friction. But 
the blood is also drawn in from the 
veins, and the real extent and power 
of this suction can very easily be 
seen whenever the entrance of air 
is impeded. In such cases the veins 
in the neck can very easily be seen 
to become swollen and full during 
expiration, and emptied again dur- 
ing exhalation. 

In the second place, the contrac- 



tion of the voluntary muscles aids 
in the return of the blood to the 
heart. While the arteries, as a rule, 
run deep in the body, out of reach 
of injury, the veins are largely near 
the surface, and the whole exterior 
of the body is more or less streaked 
by the blue lines which indicate 
their course. Now, during the con- 
traction of the muscle, it not only 
shortens but becomes broader and 
thicker, and, of course, compresses 
to a greater or less degree every- 
thing near it. Thus the veins are 
continually being pressed upon here 
and there, in various parts of the 
body, during the whole of our wak- 
ing hours, and even to some extent 
when we are asleep. 

But merely pressing the blood 
out of the certain portion of the 
vein might send it in either direc- 
tion. It would be almost as likely 
to send it away from the heart as 
toward it. This reflex of blood in 
the veins is prevented by valves, 
which allow the blood to pass 
through them readily toward the 
heart, but not away from it. The 
discovery of the valves and circu- 
lation of the blood was first made 
by Dr. William Harvey, who was 
a great physician to the king of 
England, just a few years before 
the pilgrims sailed across the At- 
lantic in the Mayflower. He died 
in 1657, about forty years after he 
discovered the circulation of blood. 
He was scoffed and ridiculed for 
his theory and disputed, at first, 
by the other doctors. These valves 
are particularly numerous in the 
lower extremities, for here the force 
of gravity acts in opposition to the 
current of blood and would seri- 
ously interfere with circulation if 
there were no special provision with 
reference to it. 

Thus when blood is forced out of 
a portion of a vein by pressure, it 
cannot go backward on account of 
the valves, but must go forward in 
every case. This fact and the ac- 
tion of the valves may be beauti- 
fully seen in the arms of any per- 
son where the veins are not ob- 
scured by too much fat beneath the 
skin. 



Page one hundred forty-six 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



If a place be chosen where a vein 
is visible, with no branches for an 
inch or so, and one finger be placed 
upon it so as to stop the flow of 
blood, the portion of the vein on 
the farther side from the heart will 
be seen to fill with blood. This 
slight swelling marks the situation 
of the valve. If a finger be pressed 
along a vein toward the heart, 
pressing upon it all of the time, the 
vein will be seen to be filled behind 
the finger; while if the finger be 
pressed in the opposite direction, 
away from the heart, the vein will 
be empty and collapsed behind the 
finger, and perhaps hardly notice- 
able. This clearly indicates the di- 
rection of the current of blood. 

But the third cause of the venous 
circulation, and the most important 
of all, is the blood which is con- 
stantly accumulating in the capil- 
laries and exercising pressure on 
the column of blood already in the 
veins. This pressure is unceasing 
and powerful. These three causes 
acting together keep up a free and 
steady flow of blood in the veins 
toward the heart. 

In both arteries and veins, there 
are numerous communicating 
branches, so that when the blood 
vessel is obstructed, the blood 
passes out into other vessels and 
around the point of stoppage, and, 
excepting in extraodrinary cases, 
the nutrition of the part is not in- 
terfered with. 

The arteries, then, carry the 
bright scarlet, highly oxygenated 
blood from the heart out to all 
parts of the body for its nutrition. 
It is sent to the remote capillaries, 
partly by the contraction of the 
heart, and partly by the elasticity 
of the arteries. From the arteries 
it enters the capillaries, where the 
essential but very obscure processes 
of nutrition are carried on. It has 
been found that the current of 
blood rushes through the arteries 
with an average velocity of twelve 
inches per second, but, in conse- 
quence of the smallness of capil- 



laries and their distance from the 
heart, as well as the magnitude of 
their combined areas as compared 
with that of the aorta, the blood 
moves through them very slowly, 
not faster, it is thought, than one- 
thirtieth of an inch per second. 
When the capillary circulation is 
looked at through a microscope, as 
it may be in the web of a frog, it 
is seen that the red corpuscles pass 
along through the minute vessels, 
sometimes together, but often in 
single file, and without much trou- 
ble; but the white corpuscles are 
affected by friction, and drag along, 
sticking fast here and there until 
they are started again by the cur- 
rent. During the passage of the 
blood through the capillaries, cer- 
tain of its ingredients transede 
through the walls of the vessels, 
and lie in immediate contact with 
the tissues outside. These are the 
nutritive materials by which the 
various tissues of the body are kept 
in repair. The cells select their 
nourishment, and what is left, to- 
gether with waste and used-up mat- 
ters from the cells, is taken up by 
the lymphatic vessels and returned 
to the large veins near the heart. 
These matters constitute what is 
called the lymph. Changes in the 
gaseous constituents of blood also 
take place in this part of the cir- 
culation, and so we find that, when 
the blood emerges from the capil- 
laries into the veins, it has become 
of a dark purple color, and unfit 
for further use in the body until it 
is refreshed. So the process which 
takes place in the capillaries is in 
some degree the reverse of that 
which takes place in the lungs. The 
blood enters the lungs of a black 
or deep purple color and comes out 
bright purple. It passes back to 
the heart through the veins, the 
steady flow being maintained partly 
by suction and partly by the act of 
respiration, partly by muscular con- 
traction and consequent pressure of 
the veins, and mainly by pressure 
form the capillaries, which con- 
stantly forces the blood onward. 



Page one hundred forty-seven 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



DIGESTION 

"T\IGESTION is a physical and 
chemical process by which the 
food is introduced into the alimen- 
tary canal, is liquified, and its nu- 
tritive principles transformed by the 
digestive fluids into new substances 
capable of being absorbed into the 
blood. 

The Digestive Apparatus consists 
of the alimentary canal and its ap- 
pendages, viz.,' teeth, lips, and 
tongue; the salivary, gastric and in- 
testinal glands, the liver and pan- 
creas. 

Digestion is divided into many 
different stages which are as fol- 
lows: Prehension, mouth digestion, 
which is mastication and salivation; 
deglutition, which is swallowing ; 
gastric and intestinal digestion, and 
defecation. 

PREHENSION 

The act of conveying the food into 
the mouth, is accomplished by the 
hands, lips and teeth. 

THE MOUTH 

Mastication is the mechanical di- 
vision of the food, and is accomp- 
lished by the teeth, and the move- 
ments of the lower jaw, under the 
influence of muscular contraction. 
When thoroughly divided, the food 
presents a larger surface for the sol- 
vent action of the digestive fluids, 
thus enabling them to exert their 
respective action more effectively 
and in a shorter period of time. 

MOVEMENTS INVOLVED 
Though originating in an effort 
of the will and under its control, the 
movements are, for the most part, 
of an automatic or reflex character, 
taking place in the m'edulla and in- 
duced by the presence of food with- 
in the mouth. The nerves and nerve- 
centers involved in this mechanism 
are as follows: Lingual branches 
of the trigeminal nerve. The Glos- 
sopharyngeal are the sensory 
branches. The motor are as fol- 
lows: The small root of the trige- 
minal, hypoglossol and the facial 
nerves. The impression made upon 
the terminal filaments of the sens- 



ory nerves are transmitted to the 
medulla. Motor impulses are here 
generated which are transmitted to 
the muscles involved in the move- 
ments of the lower jaw. 

INSALIVATION 

This is the incorporation of the 
food with the saliva secreted by the 
parotid, sublingual and submaxil- 
lary glands. The parotid saliva is 
thin and watery and is poured into 
the mouth through Stenos duct. 
The submaxillary and sublingual 
saliva is thick and viscid, and is 
poured into the mouth through 
Wartons and Bartholonis ducts. 

Deglutition is the act of trans- 
forming food from the mouth into 
the stomach, and is divided into 
three stages as follows: First, the 
passage of the bolus from the mouth 
into the pharynx. Second, from the 
pharynx into the Esophagus. Third, 
from the Esophagus into the Stom- 
ach. In the first stage the move- 
ments are entirely voluntary, and 
the second and third movements are 
peristalic movements. 

So the food is voluntarily taken 
into the mouth and passed from the 
mouth into the Esophagus and then 
from the Esophagus to the stom- 
ach, and from the stomach to the 
duodenum, from the duodenum into 
the small intestines, from the small 
intestines to the secum, thence to 
the ascending colon, then the trans- 
verse colon, thense the descending 
colon, and out by the way of the 
anis. 

THE MOUTH (SALIVA) 

The saliva found in the mouth is 
an opalescent, slightly viscid, alka- 
line fluid, having a specific gravity 
of 1.005. Microscopic examination 
reveals the presence of salivary cor- 
puscles and epithelial cells. Chem- 
ically it is composed of water, pro- 
tein materials, and inorganic salts. 
The amount secreted daily has been 
estimated at about 2 pounds. 

Saliva moistens and softens the 
food, unites its particles into con- 
sistent mass, and thus facilitates 
swallowing, and converts boiled 
starch into sugar, known as Ery- 
throdextrin and Maltose. 



Page one hundred forty-eight 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



DEGLUTITION OR SWAL- 
LOWING 

The Stomach lies immediately be- 
yond the termination of the Esoph- 
agus. Here the alimentary canal ex- 
pands and forms a receptacle for the 
temporary retention of the food, and 
this receptacle is called the stomach. 
It will hold about 1500 cc. or about 
two quarts. It presents two orifices, 
the cardiac or esophageal, and the 
pyloric. Two curvatures, the lesser 
and greater. The walls have three 
coats, the serous, muscular and the 
mucous. The mucous lies in folds 
or wrinkles, and is covered with tall 
narrow columnar epithelium. Em- 
bedded in the mucous membrane 
are the gastric glands, which consist 
of long tubes opening into a short, 
common duct, which opens by a 
large mouth onto the surface of the 
mucous membrane. There are about 
five million of these glands at the 
fundous of the stomach, and they 
secrete the gastric juices which di- 
gest the food in the stomach. These 
juices are of a clear, colorless fluid 
with a constant acid reaction, a 
slightly saline and acid taste, and 
a specific gravity of 1.002 to 1.005. 
The materials composing this fluid 
are Pepsin, Rennin, Lipase, and Hy- 
drochloric Acid. 

It has been established that the 
fact that production and discharge 
of gastric juice is under the control 
of a nerve center situated in the 
medulla. From this center nerve 
fibers pass by the way of the vagus 
nerve to the glands of the stomach. 
The production and discharge of 
gastric secretion, just preceding and 
during a meal, is the result of the 
action of two different stimuli, a pri- 
mary and a secondary. The action 
of the gastric juice is the transfor- 
mation of the different proteins of 
the food into peptones. As soon as 
any one of the proteins is penetrated 
by the acid it is converted into acid- 
proteins. After this is accomplished 
the pepsin becomes active and trans- 
forms the acid-protein into peptone. 
Then the ammonium and magne- 
sium sulphates change it to pro- 



toses. From this stage it is capable 
of passing through animal mem- 
brane and is thus absorbed into the 
blood stream. Thus you see how 
the proteins are absorbed into the 
blood from the stomach. 



INTESTINAL DIGESTION 

The physical and chemical 
changes which the food principles 
undergo in the small intestines, and 
which collectively constitute intes- 
tinal digestion, are complex and 
probably more important than those 
taking place in the stomach, for the 
food is, in this situation, subject to 
the solvent action of the pancreatic 
and intestinal juices, as well as the 
action of the bile, each of which ex- 
erts a transforming influence on 
one or more substances and further 
prepares them for absorption into 
the blood. 

To rightly appreciate the physio- 
logic actions of the digestive juices 
poured into the intestines, the na- 
ture of the partly digested food as it 
comes from the stomach must be 
kept in mind. This consists of 
water, inorganic salts, acidified pro- 
teins, proteoses, starch, maltose, 
liquefied fats, saccharose, lactose, 
dextrose, cellulose, and the indigest- 
able portions of meats, cereals and 
fruits. Collectively they are known 
as kyme. As this acidified mass 
passes through the duodenum its 
contained acids excite a secretion 
and discharge of the intestinal fluids, 
e. g., pancreatic juice, bile, and in- 
testinal juice. 

In as much as these fluids are 
alkaline in reaction they exert a 
neutralizing and precipitating in- 
fluence on various constituents of 
Kyme. As soon as this has taken 
place gastric digestion ceases and 
those chemical changes are inau- 
gurated which eventuate in the 
transforming of all the remaining 
undigested nutritive materials into 
absorbable and assimilable com- 
pounds which collectively constitute 
intestinal digestion. 



Page one hundred forty -nine 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



THE SMALL INTESTINES 

The small intestines is that por- 
tion of the alimentary canal which 
is a convoluted tube, measuring 
about 22 feet in length and extends 
from the pyloric orifice of the stom- 
ach to the beginning of the large 
intestines. The walls of the small 
intestine has four coats, viz; Serous, 
muscle, submucous, and mucous. 
The small intestines are supplied 
with blood and nerve supply as 
well as Lymph vesicles, which carry 
the nutriment from the food we eat 
into the blood stream, and is used 
to build up the broken down tissues, 
or replaces them with new, healthy 
tissue. 

The glands of the intestines which 
secrete the intestinal juices are two 
those in the duodenal portion are 
known as Bruners glands, and those 
in the intestines are known as Lieb- 
erkuhan's glands. The pancreas is 
a very important organ lying im- 
mediately behind the stomach and 
secretes a juice which is transparent, 
colorless and strongly alkaline, and 
viscid, and has a specific gravity 
of 1,020. 

It is one of the most important of 
all the digestive fluids as it exerts 
a transforming influence upon all 
classes of alimentary principles and 
has been shown to contain at least 
three distinct enzymes, viz., amy- 
lopsin, stepsin, or lipase. These 
juices are entered into the intestines 
through the pancreas duct to the 
common bile duct then in the duo- 
denum. 

THE BILE 

This fluid is a product of the se- 
cretor activity of the liver cells, 
after its formation by the liver cells, 
it is conveyed from the liver by the 
bile capillaries which unite finally 
to form the main hepatic duct. This 
duct emerges from the liver at the 
transverse fissure. At a short dis- 
tance it is joined by the cystic duct, 
the distal extremity of which ex- 
pands into a pear shaped reservoir, 
the gall bladder in which the bile 
is temporarily stored. The duct for- 
med by the union of the hepatic and 




Digestive Organs 

WHAT THE DIGESTIVE 
ORGANS ARE 



1. 


Aesophagus or Gullet. 


2. 


Stomach. 


3. 


Duodenum or second Stomach 


4. 


Small Intestines. 


5. 


Ilio-Caecal Valve. 


6. 


Ascending Colon. 


7. 


Transverse Colon. 


8. 


Descending Colon. 


9. 


Sigmoid Flexure. 


10. 


Rectum. 


11. 


Anus. 


12. 


Vermiform Appendix. 


13. 


Liver. 


14. 


Gall Bladder. 


15. 


Hepatic Duct. 


16. 


Cystic Duct. 


17. 


Bile Duct. 


18. 


Pancreatic Duct. 


19. 


Pancreas. 



Page one hundred fifty 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



cystic ducts is the common bile duct 
and it passes downward and for- 
ward for a distance of about seven 
centimeters, and pierces the walls of 
the intestine and passes obliquely 
through its coats for about one cen- 
timeter and opens into a small re- 
ceptacle, the ampulla of Vater. The 
flow of bile into the intestines are 
steady, but is greatly increased while 
eating, and after eating, it increases 
the flow of the pancreatic juice and 
mixes with it and neutralizes the 
gastric juices and increases the in- 
testinal juices. If the gall bladder 
is removed you will find in the 
feces fats and other undigested 
materials that have not been di- 
gested, especially fats. 

LARGE INTESTINE 

The large intestine is that part of 
the alimentary canal situated be- 
tween the termination of the ileum 
and the anus. It varies in length 
from one and one-quarter to one 
and a half meters which one meter 
is 39-37-100 inches in length. The 
diameter is three and one-half to 
seven centimeters. It is divided 
into the cecum, the colon; subdivid- 
ed into an ascending, transverse and 
descending portion, including the 
zignoid flexure and the rectum 
the walls consisting of three coats, 
viz., serous muscular and mucous. 

After the absorption of the pre- 
pared food in the intestine, the re- 
maining of the contents of the small 
intestine, together with certain in- 
testinal secretions pass into the large 
intestine, and here form the feces. 

THE FUNCTION OF THE 
LARGE INTESTINE 

Is therefore to receive, to reduce 
to a proper consistency, to tempor- 
arily store and subsequently dis- 
charge its contents, consisting of 
indigestable residue of food, to- 
gether with excretions of intestin- 
al glands, which have descended 
from the small intestines and which 
constitute in part, the feces. 

ABSORPTION 

The term absorption is applied to 
the passage or transference of the 



materials into the blood stream from 
the tissues, from the serous cavi- 
ties, and from the mucous surface 
of the body. The most important 
of these surfaces, especially in its 
relation to the formation of blood, 
is the mucous surface of the alimen- 
tary canal; for it is from this or- 
gan that new materials are derived 
which maintain the quality and 
quantity of the blood. The ab- 
sorption of materials from the in- 
terstice of the tissues is to be re- 
garded rather as a return to the 
blood of liquid nutritive which has 
escaped from the blood vescles, for 
nutritive purposes, and which if not 
returned, would lead to an accumu- 
lation of such fluids and the develop- 
ment of dropsical conditions. The 
anatomic mechanisms involved in 
absorptive processes are, primarily, 
the lymph-space, the lymph-capil- 
laries; secondary, the lympathic ves- 
sels and larger blood-vessels. 



RESPIRATION 

In spite of all the importance we 
have ascribed to the blood, food and 
water, they are equaled in import- 
ance by air. We could live from 
forty to sixty days without food, 
and about a week without water, 
but we can't live ten minutes with- 
out air. For in the air you breathe 
you get that very important ele- 
ment, Oxygen. 

Every bit of blood in your body 
passes through your lungs every 
three minutes, therefore every one 
should take a breathing exercise 
every night and morning. 

Get out into the open air if pos- 
sible, and if you cannot do this, 
raise up the windows and stand as 
close to it as possible. During 
these three minutes every bit of the 
blood in your body passes through 
your lungs, and the Oxygen you 
have taken in will oxidize the pois- 
on out of your blood. It is just 
like washing your face in the morn- 
ing, and it is just as necessary, for 
it washes your blood. 



Page one hundred fifty-one 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Your lungs are in the upper part 
of your chest, just under your shoul- 
ders. They are composed of about 
six hundred million little air cells 
and they are clustered together like 
so many toy balloons. They look 
very much like pink rubber sponges 
you see in the drug stores. In or- 
dinary breathing very few people 
breathe deep enough to open up all 
the air cells in the upper part of 
the lungs. This is often the cause 
of much disease. To do this prop- 
erly you must breathe with your 
arms well above your heads. 

You should take into your lungs 
daily about sixty barrels of air. That 
is the amount of air that your lungs 
need. Very few people get this 
much air. People who work in- 
doors in sedentary occupations 
never get this much air, and people 
who work out-doors seldom get 
this much air. If you work over 
a desk or bench or a piece of ma- 
chinery it is impossible to get the 
proper amount of air, because you 
are leaning forward all of the time. 
That is why it is absolutely neces- 
sary for every one to take breathing 
exercise with their arms well above 
the head to get every air cell pro- 
perly areated. 




Sebaceous Glands 



GLANDS OF THE SKIN 

GLANDS are secretory organs of 
the body. They separate any fluid 
from the blood. They are arranged 
in two classes, tubular and saccular 
glands, and are developments of the 
epidermis, also appendages of the 
skin. Each gland has its function 
to perform, and while the Beauty 
Specialist does not treat the glands, 
she should know and be able to rec- 
ognize the diseases resulting from 
the improper functioning of them, 
as a great many conditions arise in 
which the glands are involved. 1 he 
skin has two kinds of glands, the 
Sebaceous or oil glands, and the 
Suderiferous or sweat glands. 

The Sebaceous glands are a part 
of the hair follicle and are of the 
saccular type of gland. They are 
oval in shape and secrete an oily 
substance called sebum which keeps 
the skin soft and pliable and the 
hair glossy. They are situated in 
the deeper layers or conum ot the 
skin. 

When the sebaceous glands fail 
to function properly the following 
conditions arise: Comedones, Mi- 
lia, Acne, Seborrhea, Steatoma or 
Cyst. 

COMEDONES 

Comedones, commonly called 
blackheads, are usually caused from 
an increased activity of the se- 
baceous glands. The duct of the 
gland is filled with plugs of waste 
matter, which prevent the gland 
from functioning properly. The un- 
derlying cause may be attributed to 
faulty elimination caused from Dys- 
pepsia or Constipation. See treat- 
ment, page 186. 

MILIA 

Milia is a disease of the sebace- 
ous glands and are small white or 
pearly elevations or nodules beneath 
the outer layer of skin. They are 
caused by a retention of sebaceous 
secretion and are usually found 
around the eyes or eye-lids, also on 
the cheeks. They usually occur in 
dry skin. 



Page one hundred fifty-two 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



ACNE 

The different forms of Acne are: 
Acne Vulgaris, Acne Rosacea, Acne 
Artificialis, Acne Cachecticorum, 
Punctata, Albida, Indurata. 

ACNE VULGARIS 

This is the most commonly found 
type of Acne and is a chronic in- 
flammation of the sebaceous glands. 
It is generally found on the face. 
However, it is often found on shoul- 
ders, neck and back. The disease 
appears in the form of papules, pus- 
tules, and nodules. This disease 
clogs the excretory ducts leading 
to the surface of the skin, with an 
oily secretion called sebum. As 
the pores of the skin retain this se- 
bum an inflammation takes place. 
The papules and pustules appear 
slowly and usually contain a germ. 
If these pustules are not properly 
taken care of pits and scars result. 

A correct diet is of the utmost 
importance in the treatment of Acne 
Vulgaris as it shows an improper 
elimination through the regular 
channels. (For treatment see page 
183.) 

ACNE ARTIFICIALIS 

This is an acute eruption and is 
attended by severe itching. It is 
usually caused from using cosmet- 
ics that irritate the skin. It is also 
caused from improper food. 

The treatment consists of sooth- 
ing lotions, such as zinc ointment 
or Lozzars paste and to discontinue 
what is causing it. 

ACNE ROSACEA 

This is a chronic congestion of 
the skin of the face. The blood 
capillaries are often broken and 
greatly dilated near the surface of 
the skin, causing tiny red lines espe- 
cially near the nose. 

The tip of the nose usually is red 
and congested. This condition is 
often attributed to the excessive 
use of alcoholics. Spicy foods should 
be avoided. Electrolysis can be used 



to treat the capillaries and in this 
way cut off the blood supply that 
causes the broken capillaries. 

The treatment is the same as for 
Acne Vulgaris. However, in Acne 
Rosacea the treatment of the capil- 
laries is very important as this is 
done with the Galvanic current. 

A common sewing needle can be 
used for this purpose. It can be in- 
serted in the needle holder. The face 
is then sterilized with Peroxide of 
Hydrogen or pure alcohol. 

Needle is attached to negative pole, 
using water for positive pole. The 
flesh is then pressed between the 
fingers and needle is inserted into each 
capillary in the direction in which it 
runs. 

Treat each one separately after 
which the face is bathed with Perox- 
ide of Hydrogen and zinc ointment 
applied. 



ACNE CACHECTICORUM 

This form of acne is frequently 
found among persons that are 
greatly run down from illness. 
The skin lesions are usually very 
deep owing to the general health of 
the person. These lesions are usu- 
ally found on the back. A physician 
should be consulted as this is not 
the work of the Beauty Culturist. 



ACNE INDURATA 

This condition of Acne shows 
very little on the surface as it is 
caused from the deeper seated se- 
baceous glands, but when they do 
they are in the form of tubercules 
with a large hard base. The treat- 
ment is the same as for Acne Vul- 
garis. (See page 183.) 



ACNE ALBIDA 

The skin is usually very dry in 
this condition of Acne, frequently 
pustules and comedones are found. 
However, Milia is found in profu- 



Page one hundred fifty-three 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



sion. Treatment same as for Mi- 
lia (see page 185.) 

In all cases of Acne the High 
Frequency current is highly recom- 
mended as it assists in relieving the 
tendency to scar or pit. 

Acne on the face, is usually ac- 
companied hy Seborrhea on the 
scalp, as Seborrhea is one of the 
diseases of the Sebaceous glands. 



WENS, OR STEATOMA, AND 
SEBACEOUS CYSTS 

Wens or Cysts are formed be- 
neath the skin and are often called 
Steatoma. In color they vary from 
white to pink and sometimes have 
a purplish hue. They are tumors 
or meinbrattons sacs, filled with an 
accumulation of sebaceous matter. 
They are usually located upon the 
scalp, face, neck or back and vary 
in size from a pin head to an orange. 
They are generally single but have 
been known to form in different 
portons of the body. 

They are more frequently found 
in women. They are in shape either 
round, oval or flat, and are seft or 
hard to the touch, but are often 
movable beneath the skin. 

They are usually due to the stop- 
ping up of the ducts of the oil 



__^fZJWPJT 




glands. Electricity, galvanic cur- 
rent, can be used in removing them 
or an operation by a reputable 
physician. 

SUDORIFEROUS OR SWEAT 
GLANDS 

THESE are the sweat glands and 
are located over the entire body 
in the subcutaneous connective tis- 
sues. They are the simple tubular 
glands and their work is to assist 
in the elimination of the waste mat- 
ter from the body through perspira- 
tion. 

The duct of the suderiforous 
gland enters the epidermis between 
the two layers of skin and finally 
opens into what is known as the 
sweat pores. Any disease of the 
sweat glands causes either a de- 
crease or increase of the flow of the 
secretions and often has a bad odor. 
These glands are the most numer- 
ous on the palms of the hands and 
soles of the feet and they number 
2,700 to the square inch, on the fore- 
head, 1,200, and on the cheek about 
500 to the square inch. The total 
number on the whole body about 
2,400,000, which with an average 
body, if placed end to end, would 
make a chain 28 miles long. The 
skin eliminates one-sixtieth of the 
body in a day or two, or about two 
pounds of organic salts and 150 
grains of Carbon Dioxide gas. 

The diseases of Suderiforous 
glands are: 

HYPERDROSIS 

This is excessive perspiration and 
is a functional disorder. If it is 
localized it is usually confined to 
the face, hands, and feet. It is 
often caused by certain types of dis- 
ease. 



Sudoriferous Glands 



Page one hundred fifty-fout 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



ANIDROSIS 

This is lack of perspiration. In 
this condition the skin is very dry 
and at times there is a burning sen- 
sation. Anidrosis may exist from 
birth. If so, there is nothing that 
can be done. However, some physi- 
cians contend that hot baths and 
drinking a great deal of water will 
assist in relieving this condition. 

CHROMIDROSIS 

This condition occurs mostly in 
nervous persons and is manifested 
by a discharge of colored perspira- 
tion from the pores. It is not a 
common disease. A reliable physi- 
cian should be consulted. 



BROMODROSIS 

This is a condition where the per- 
spiration is fetid or foul smelling. 
It usually occurs under the arm pits 
or on the feet. Nervous disorders 
as a rule are partly the cause of 
this condition. Absolute cleanliness 
is essential. 



URIDROSIS 

This is a condition that is defined 
as the presence of urinous materi- 
als in the sweat, such as uric acid, 
etc. 

SUDAMEN 

This disease is characterized by 
whitish blisters due to the reten- 
tion of sweat in the upper layers 
of the skin. 



MILARIA RUBEA 

This is commonly called prickly 
heat and is an inflammatory dis- 
order of the sweat glands. It makes 
its appearance in small red sacs, or 
papules, and is attended by burn- 
ing and itching. This usually makes 
its appearance in warm weather. 

All of these conditions should be 
treated by a reputable physician. 
However, exercise in the open air, 
frequent bathing, electric and vapor 
massage are very beneficial. 





Eczema 



Page one hundred fifty-five 



Lesson Twelve 

Subject 

AMPLIFIED FACIAL 



Embracing 



1. Exercise 

2. Stimulation 

3. Relaxation 

4. Nerves 

5. Glands 



6. Circulation 

7. Muscles 

8. Sub-vibration 

9. Twin forces 
10. Make up 



'T'HIS treatment derives its name 
from the more ample and scien- 
tific system of exercise and manipu- 
lation, than has ever been given before, 
in any facial work, and when under- 
stood and practiced, we hope, will 
redeem much of the lost patronage 
that has resulted from lack of skill 
and the knowledge of the underlying 
principles of this work. 

In order to give a Scientific Treat- 
ment, one that will build up, stimulate 
and relax the tense nerves and tissues, 
it is necessary to understand some- 
thing of the functioning of the skin, 
nerves, muscles and glands, in order 
to give a beneficial, as well as enjoy- 
able, facial to your patron. The skin 
in itself acts as a protection to the 
nerves, blood vessels and glands ; also 
regulates the heat of the body, elimin- 
ates by means of the Suderiferous 
glands the impurities from the body ; 
it also absorbs fatty substances such 
as creams or lotions, through massage ; 
the skin also breathes ; it expels water 
and gas, and absorbs oxygen. 

The skin is supplied with sensory 
nerves, and therefore convey the sense 
of touch. However, the nerves have 
only an indirect relationship to facial 
exercises, they play their part in blood 
supply and stimulation, and are closely 
associated with the muscles of the 
face. They also convey a sense of 
relaxation and rest, so necessary in 
this work. The distribution of the 
nerves of the skin follows the same 
course as the blood vessels. However, 
the muscles of the face play the most 



important part in the facial treatment, 
owing to the fact that the face is pe- 
culiar in having attached to it many 
small muscles, whose movements, along 
with the movements of the eyes, causes 
the play of expressions on the face. 
It is the contraction of these facial 
muscles that cause wrinkles. 

The face and body are also supplied 
with voluntary and involuntary mus- 
cles. The voluntary muscles are gov- 
erned by the cerebro-spinal nervous 
system, and are controlled by the will, 
while the involuntary muscles are un- 
der the control of the sympathetic 
nervous system, and acts more upon 
the stomach and bowels and to a great 
degree upon the skin. 

Each muscle is supplied by dif- 
ferent arteries, and sends branches 
to the veins. They also act as a pad- 
ding for the bones and as a support 
to the body. They are composed of 
white, fibrous cords, and are respon- 
sible for the movements and appear- 
ance of the facial expressions, and 
therefore play a very important part 
in this treatment, as the manipulations 
are for the purpose of blood supply, 
which gives nourishment to the mus- 
cles, and in this manner keeps them 
in good condition. When muscles lose 
their elasticity wrinkles result, there- 
fore it is so necessary to know their 
location in order to work in the pro- 
per direction, for if you work against 
the muscles you pull them out of 
shape, or may flatten them and cause 
wrinkles or give the face an unnatural 
appearance, while proper manipulation 



Page one hundred fifty-six 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



stimulates the circulation, yet this can 
be overdone with many of the move- 
ments, if one has not the correct un- 
derstanding of them. The correct 
movements can be found elsewhere 
in our Manual, which describes 
minutely the location of the muscles, 
and all that is necessary to give com- 
plete and scientific facial treatments 
of all kinds. It describes in detail 
the treatment suitable for each indi- 
vidual case. It also gives complete 



into the pores of the skin and removes 
the secretions as well as the dust and 
grime from the outer surface, after 
which moist heat is applied either in 
the form of hot towels or a vaporizer. 
If towels are used, three are sufficient. 
The next step after an application of 
tissue food, is to use your twin vibra- 
tors ; they are attached to the operat- 
or's hands by means of a specially 
constructed appliance which fits over 
the hands. This appliance is placed 




The Amplified Moler massage, twin vibrators in use 



treatise on other branches of the art. 

In giving the Amplified Facial, in 
which the twin vibrators are used (one 
vibrator works in opposition to the 
other) the proper amount of stimul- 
ation and blood supply is produced 
through artificial exercise rather than 
by the slow process of finger mani- 
pulation. The twin vibrators there- 
fore produce a more complete vibra- 
tion than the single, as it reaches the 
deep-seated blood vessels, nerves and 
glands, and all structures that go to 
make up the body. In order to give 
this treatment properly, it is necessary 
to prepare patron first, as described 
in Leson 13 of our Manual. 

Always see that patron is thoroughly 
relaxed and comfortable before be- 
ginning treatment, then cleanse the 
face with a good cold cream) (we use 
the Moler product which is a very 
pure cold cream) which penetrates 



over the second and third fingers of 
both hands. 

The deep soothing vibrations to the 
face are produced through the finger 
tips of the operator, with a firm, gentle 
pressure, following the outline as set 
forth in our Manual. 

Briefly, the hands are placed on 
the forehead, going over the Occipito 
Frontalis muscle, which is located at 
the forehead, with an upward and 
downward movement, from temple to 
temple. The Occipito muscle moves 
the scalp backward and the Frontalis 
muscle draws the scalp forward, orig- 
inates at the root of the nose and 
raises the eyebrows. You are also 
working over the Sinus, a hollow cav- 
ity in the forehead, and this action 
stimulates the nerve supply to the Si- 
nus, and in this way relieves a head- 
ache or cold at once. It also stimu- 
lates the Frontalis muscle, thereby 



Page one hundred fifty-seven 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



removing the lines which form on 
the forehead. This is followed by a 
deep rotary movement over the fore- 
head, and from temple to temple, 
working again to the Frontalis mus- 
cle ; also across the Semi Lunar Gang- 
lion, which supply the impulses or 
life to the organ ; then proceed with 
the exercise with an up and down 
movement on the temples, on the lines 
that radiate from the corner of the 
eyes back toward the hair. You are 
now working on the Temporal muscle ; 
a deep vibration should be given at 
this point, then permit your hands 
to pass over the Masseter muscle by 
placing them at the lower portion of 
the jawbone, and then move them in 
an upward straight movement toward 
the temples three times, releasing the 
pressure as you glide down. 

This stimulates the Inferior branch 
of the Fifth Cranial nerve and the 
Parotid glands, which increase the 
flow of saliva. However, care must 
be taken at this point not to overdo 
your work, as too much pressure could 
injure or bruise these glands. From 
this point you work back of the ear 
which brings you over the mastoid 
process. Glide your fingers back light- 
ly in front of the ear to the ramous 
of the jaw. 

Now work back over the lamina of 
the atlas to the spinous process of 
the axis. At this point avoid working 
too far down the neck as it would 
over stimulate the vagous nerve at the 
fifth cervical. Now proceed by giving 
a circular movement around the eyes, 
working over the Orbicularis Palpe- 
brarum muscle. This muscle controls 
the opening and closing of the eyes. 
This movement may be repeated sev- 
eral times, but avoid undue pressure, 
as it might bruise or discolor the eyes. 
Great care must be taken to avoid 
getting cream into the eyes, as it would 
make the patron uncomfortable. The 
hands are again brought down to the 
Ramous of the jawbone, working back 
and forth under the chin with a strok- 
ing movement, stimulating the Omo- 
Hyoid muscle upward in a rotary 
stroke, on the expression lines, work- 
ing on the Zygomaticus muscles, which 
draw the corners of the mouth up 



and back. The lack of natural exer- 
cise to this muscle is the cause of the 
deep lines near the corner of the 
mouth. Now proceed across the 
cheeks in a soothing stroking move- 
ment, over the Masseter muscle, which 
raises the lower jaw and presses it 
against the upper one. Then with a 
rotary movement back and forth, over 
the neck and chin, you stimulate the 
Platysma muscle and the Sublingual 
glands. Then move the hands back- 
ward to spine and back of neck, over 
the Sterno-Cleido-Mastoid muscle, 
which bends the head forward to one 
side ; also over the Mastoid process 
and the Thyroid glands. Great care 
must be taken in working over these 
glands, not to over-do the exercise, 
as they secrete a poisonous fluid, and 
when over-stimulated throw this out 
through the system. 

Now place the fingers over the jaw- 
on each side and with a stroking move- 
ment of the thumbs on each side of 
the nose, you work down, repeating 
three times. 

Now remove the cream from the 
face with a dry towel or cotton and 
proceed as with other facial finishes. 




Page one hundred fifty-eight 



Lesson 



Thirteen 



Subject 

FACIALS 



Finger Manipulations 

We will proceed with this lesson. Place 
the customer in the chair, spread your 
haircloth from in front as you do for a 
shave, and place the towel straight across 
the back, tucked in over the customer's 
garments to protect them from the cream 
on the hands, while giving the manipula- 
tions on the back of the neck. Place a face 
towel over the head rest. Now recline 
your chair, spreading the towel diagonally 
over the haircloth, tucking one side in, 
folding it diagonally across tucking the op- 
posite side, making a neat protection for 
the garments. Now bring the towel that 
you have on the head rest up and around 
the head in this manner and pin or fasten 
with a clamp, which forms a protecting 
cap for the hair. 

A face to be properly treated should 
first be steamed, either with a hot towel or 
some other device, of which there are a 



Things to Remember 



A nice linen spread for a fa- 
cial is as essential as for a 
shave. 



The time will come when 
towels will not be used in fa- 
cial treatments. 



Page one hundred fifty-nine 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



A professional soothing 
touch is to be acquired if a 
facial treatment is more than 
a face wash. 



number on the market. For the barber, 
the hot towel is generally used, and 
as you place the first towel over the face, 
ask your customer to relax and become 
just as passive as possible. If a shave 
has just been given, from two to three 
steam towels are used, but if not, from 
four to five are necessary to put the 
face in the proper condition, always being 
careful that the towels are evenly heated 
and to a temperature that will be comfort- 
able, as a towel overheated will contract 
the muscles rather than relax them. The 
towel should be quite thoroughly wrung 
out to avoid water running down the neck, 
and it is advisable to carry the towel from 
the basin to the customer folded in such a 
manner that it will retain the steam and 
heat, and so it will be easily unfolded and 
handled as you spread it over the face. 

Steaming the face before the manipula- 
tion is essential as it relaxes the muscles, 
opens the pores of the skin and generally 
puts the face in better condition to receive 
the treatment. I would suggest about two 
minutes of steaming. 



The selection of proper face 
cream is important. This is 
ivhere chemistry serves well. 



We now apply the cream, but for this 
manipulation it must be a cleansing cream 
and skin food, not a rolling cream or a van- 
ishing cream, as the rolling cream would 
roll from the skin too quickly, leaving it 
dry, and the vanishing cream would leave 
no lubricant for the manipulations. You 
will have in the palm of your hand, just 
a sufficient amount of cream to cover the 



Page one hundred sixty 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



face well before removing the towel, in or- 
der to apply it quickly as the towel is re- 
moved. 

You will apply the cream by first quickly 
rubbing the two hands together to thor- 
oughly spread it over the hands, then ap- 
ply it to the face. 

You will start your manipulations over 
the Sinus at the center of the forehead. 
This Sinus is a hollow or cavity in 
the forehead and is the part that becomes 
infected when one has a cold. We are 
now working over the Frontalis muscle in 
a stroking movement, down to the temple 
and back to the center of the forehead, re- 
peating this eight times on each side. This 
we call the Rotary Frontalis movement. 
This manipulation stimulates the nerve 
supply to the Sinus, often relieving a 
headache or cold at once. It also strength- 
ens the Frontalis muscle by bringing it 
back to its natural healthy condition, there- 
by removing the lines of the forehead that 
form as the muscle contracts. There is 
little danger of over-exercising this mus- 
cle. Now start with a frictional move- 
ment with the balls of your fingers at the 
temples and with a rotary frictional move- 
ment work your way back to the forehead, 
repeating this about eight times. 

Now with a rotary frictional movement 
from the temple down to the Ramous of 
the jaw-bone, which is working over the 
Masseter muscle. This exercises the Mas- 
seter muscle and stimulates the inferior 
branch of the fifth cranial nerve and the 



Things to Remember 



No exact or rigid rules can 
be adhered to in facial treat- 
ments. You must display 
judgement with skill. 



The tendency is for a face 
let your movements be upward, 
to sag. Bear this in mind and 



Page one hundred sixty-one 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




Diagram of facial movements for new Moler massage 



1 — Rotary Frontalis. 8 — Straight Orbicularis 

2 — Up and Down Frontalis. 9 — Straight Nasal. 

3 — Rotary Temporal 11— Straight Thyroid. 

4 — Rotary Occipito. 12 — Orris Pick Up. 

6 — Rotary Platysma. 13 — Helix. 
7 — Circular Orbicularis. 



Page one hundred sixtv-twu 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Parotid gland. This is the gland that by 
manipulation increases the saliva of mas- 
tication. It is the one that is affected when 
one has the mumps. This manipulation we 
will call the Rotary Temperal and it should 
be repeated only about eight times. There 
is danger of overdoing your work at this 
point, as too much pressure would bruise 
and otherwise injure the glands, and again 
if this muscle is over-exercised it will give 
the face a stern or hard look. 

From this point, work with a rotary f ric- 
tional movement below and back of the 
ear, which brings your manipulation over 
the Mastoid Process. This gives not only 
a soothing effect, but is beneficial in case of 
inflammation at this point. We will repeat 
this eight times, stroking back each time 
with a sliding movement. In case of a 
headache or tired feeling, you will, from 
this point, work down with a rotary fric- 
tional movement over the Lamina of the 
Atlas to the back of the neck, which is 
manipulating the Occipito muscle. This 
movement we call the Rotary Occipito. 

We will now start again at the temple, 
working with a frictional rotary move- 
ment over the cheeks toward the nose. This 
is manipulating the zygomatic major and 
minor muscles, the two muscles lying over 
the cheeks, whose uses are to draw back 
and raise the corner of the mouth. Repeat 
this eight or more times according to the 
face. If fat, ten to twelve times will not 
harm and will reduce the fatty secretions, 
but if the face is thin, too much manipula- 



Things to Remember 



Be sure that you do not con- 
verse with your customer when 
giving a facial. A treatment 
without rest or relaxation is 
valueless. 



Pleasant thoughts are de- 
tected in the touch. Keep a 
smiling disposition. 



Page one hundred sixty-three 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



The heavy double chin is 
the result of high living. It 
denotes rich field for oper- 
ation. 



Extreme care must be dis- 
played in working over and 
around the eyes. They are 
easily discolored. 



tion on the muscles will give it too mus- 
cular a look. 

We now start at the Ramous of the jaw- 
bone at the point of the Parotid gland and 
work with a rotary frictional movement 
forward to the point of the chin. This is 
manipulating the Platysma-Myodes mus- 
cle which raises and lowers the chin, also 
the Sublingual glands that secrete the sal- 
iva for mastication, thus not only improv- 
ing the facial expression, but, if present, 
would remove the double chin and improve 
the general health of the body. In the 
event of a heavy double chin, you could 
give ten to twelve or more of these move- 
ments without injury to the muscles or 
glands, but avoid using too heavy a pres- 
sure as the object now is to work on the 
fatty portion rather than on the muscle. 
In the event of a fat face, generally no 
muscle exercise is needed, but if it were 
a thin face, needing a better muscle elas- 
ticity, the object would be to work on the 
muscle, but in this event repeat each move- 
ment only about eight times. This move- 
ment we call the Rotary Platysma. 

We now work over the eye. This is on 
the Orbicularis Palpebrarum muscle that 
opens and closes the eye, and the movement 
is a straight stroking movement, starting 
at the inner corner of the eyes, rubbing out 
to the outer corners over the eye-ball and 
in to the inner corners underneath the eye- 
ball, always being careful to avoid pres- 
sure that might discolor or allowing the 
cream or materials to be worked into the 



Page one hundred sixty-four 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



eye. Repeat this movement about eight 
times. This we call the Circular Orbicu- 
laris. 

Now with the second finger and thumb 
of the left hand stretch the skin at the 
outer corners of the eye and with the first 
two fingers of the right hand manipulate 
with a vibrating movement from the cor- 
ner of the eye back to the ear over the 
Temperal muscle. This is to remove the 
crows-feet at the corners of the eyes and 
to further exercise the muscle. Repeat 
this about eight times, but there is little 
danger of injury by over-exercising at this 
part. This movement we call the Straight 
Orbicularis. 



Things to Remember 




Straight nasal. Movement No. 9 

The nasal movement is next and covers 
a series of strokes downward from the in- 
ner corners of the eye down to the base of 
the nose, up over the lip back to the base 
of the nose, up to the end and straight 
back over the nose, continuing over each 
eye-brow, finishing at the outer corners of 



Hands must be kept flexible 
and under absolute muscle con- 
trol to give proper manipu- 
lation. 



A body masseur spends three 
years preparing for a license. 
The same skill is required in 
facial work. 



Page one hundred sixty-five 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



We frequently see the un- 
trained barber removing black- 
heads between the thumb nails. 
This is malpractice. 



the eyes. This manipulation is with the 
thumbs as you see and repeat each about 
eight times. This assists in removing black- 
heads, should they be present, helps to re- 
move the sebaceous matter from the side 
of the nose, helps to reduce the expression 
lines and helps shape the nose. I wish 
to caution you here against too much pin- 
ching or rubbing to remove blackheads as 
it frequently tears the tissues which is 
more injurious than beneficial. This move- 
nent is called the Straight Nasal. 




Straight thyroid. Movement No. 11 



Proper muscle exercise 
builds it up. Improper man- 
ipulation tears it down. 



Our next manipulation is from the point 
of the chin with both hands, down, back, 
under and up. This is operating on 
the Sterno-Cleido-Mastoid muscle. This 
muscle's action is to rotate the head 
and move it forward and backward. We 
also manipulate over the Thyroid glands, 
one of the most important glands in the 
body. In connection with this is the motor 
and centuery nerves, but unless manipula- 
tion is properly done it may result in in- 
jury to the general health of your cus- 



Page one hundred sixty-six 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



tomer for if the manipulation extends 
down too far at the back of the neck, the 
manipulation may be on the motor nerve 
that may excite the gland and cause it to 
discharge a poisonous secretion in the sys- 
tem. This movement we call the Straight 
Thyroid. 

You will now manipulate on the upper 
lip with a straight stroking movement 
from the corners of the mouth to the 
nose. This is exercising the Orbic- 
ularis Orris, the muscle that closes the lips 
and pushes them out. In your manipula- 
tion of the upper lip, be careful that you 
preserve the cupid's bow or natural shape 
of the lips by pressing with the first finger 
of the right hand into the hollow of the 
upper lip as you work with the finger and 
thumb on the lip. In exercising this move- 
ment, avoid too much pressure on either 
the upper or lower lip, for too continuous 
a pressure on the muscle would serve to 
flatten it, spoiling the natural shape of the 
mouth. This movement we call the Orris 
Pick-Up. Repeat about eight times. 



Things to Remember 



It is claimed that personal 
magnetism has much to do with 
the success of a treatment. 
This magnetism is kindly 
thoughts. 



The barber sometimes pulls 
and zvools and mauls his cus- 
tomers. This is acrobatic, not 
scientific. 



Page one hundred sixty-seven 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



There is a springtime odor 
to a high frequency treatment. 
Fresh ozone is beneficial. 



A lasting blemish may be 
the result of carelessness zvith 
this instrument. 



ELECTRIC FACIAL 

High Frequency 

This conveys electricity directly to your 
customer through the electrode or glass 
tube, and as electricity is a germicide, this 
instrument is especially desirable in cases 
of facial blemishes or skin diseases, such as 
Acne, Milia, Comedos, etc. 




High Frequency or Violet 
Ray, a germ destroyer 



Pedestal vibrator with 
hand attachments 



In giving this treatment it is necessary 
to move in the general direction of the 
nerves as electricity follows the nerves as 
it would an electric wire. However, if you 
were not to do this scientifically, the elec- 
tricity would jump to the nerves as it has 
an affinity there. But to have a knowledge 
of the nerves you are enabling it to operate 
with the nerve you seek to reach. 

In using the High Frequency, it must be 
kept constantly in motion while passing 
over the face, and one must be cautious not 
to overdo or overextend the, period of this 
treatment, for if the instrument were to 
be left in one spot too long, it would burn 
the tissues, and even much greater dam- 



Page one hundred sixty-eight 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



ages have been known as a result of ig- 
norance as to the handling of this instru- 
ment. Not over five minutes should be 
devoted to work with the High Frequency 
and the flow or current should be so regu- 
lated that there will be no severe stinging 
or burning as the electrode is placed on the 
face. The strength may be increased after 
the electrode is put to work if the customer 
requires it. If this precaution is taken 
there can be no damaging results follow- 
ing a treatment. 

We will start our treatment over the 
Semilunar Ganglion to the center of the 
forehead and back, now down over the 
inferior branch to the Otic Ganglion and 
back, now operate over the Medial branch 
with a rotary movement over the cheek. 
Now the opposite side in the same manner 
over the Semiluner Ganglion to the center 
of the forehead and back, now down over 
the inferior branch to the Otic Ganglion 
and back, then over the Medial branch in a 
rotary movement over the cheek, now 
down over the Sterno-Cleido-Mastoid mus- 
cle, over the Thyroid glands, and the same 
on the opposite side. Now under the chin 
over the Digastric muscle. 

In working over the Orbicularis Palpe- 
brarum you soften the current by working 
over the fingers as we did with the vi- 
brator, working around the Orbicularis 
Orris and the nasal movement as you see. 
Never use the High Frequency on the back 
of the neck for the same reason that we 
do not use the vibrator. 



Things to Remember 



Test the strength of the cur- 
rent on your own flesh before 
trying it on your customer. 



Avoid direct contact with the 
electrode over the eye. 



Page one hundred sixty-nine 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



A single vibrator is a farce 
if not properly manipulated. 



A soft rapid stroke is pre- 
ferred to a longer one given 
with less rapidity. Watch 
carefully the adjustment of 
your machine. 



We will use the skin food again and 
proceed with the vibrator. We start 
operation over the Sinus, working with 
a back and forth movement to the temple 
and back, which is operating over the 
Frontalis muscle. Do this twice and 
then with a rotary movement over the 
forehead to the temple. Continue now 
over the temperal muscle moving down to 
the Ramous of jaw-bone or Parotid 
gland. Now continue back to the ear three 
times. This is stimulating the Mastoid 
Process. Now move below the jaw-bone, 
work back and forth over the Platysma 
muscle and Sublingual glands. You now 
return and manipulate the cheek, working 
with a rotary movement over Zygomaticus 
muscle. Now to the opposite side of the 
face in the same manner, going over the 
Frontalis Temperal and Mastoid Process. 
Now again over the Platysma muscles, 
which also stimulates the Sub-lingual 
glands, again over the Zygomaticus muscle 
and sub-maxillary glands. Now we will ex- 
ercise the Orbicularis Palpebrarum mus- 
cles by placing the hand over the eye with 
the vibrator used in a rapid rotary move- 
ment to soften the vibration over the Or- 
bicularis Palpebrarum. 

Great care must be exercised that this 
treatment over the eyes is not heavy 
enough to blacken or discolor underneath 
the eye-ball. 



Page one hundred seventy 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Now continue over the nose. I wish to 
caution you against using the vibrator di- 
rectly over the nose as it frequently causes 
the customer to sneeze. We now operate 
over the Sterno-Cleido-Mastoid muscle by 
moving down and up with a rotary move- 
ment, repeating on each side about three 
times. 

Now work underneath the chin over the 
Platysma muscle in a rotary movement, re- 
peating about three times. Now move up 
to the mouth, moving across over the up- 
per lip and back over the under. This is 
exercising the Orbicularis Orris muscle. 

Complete by a slight manipulation of 
the ears. This completes the vibrator. 

You now complete the treatment by re- 
moving the cream, carefully avoiding too 
much pressure, but generally with an out- 
ward and upward movement to avoid giv- 
ing the face a drooping effect. You now 
use one or two hot towels folded and put 
on as we did the first ones, being careful 
that they are not uncomfortably hot. There 
is quite a little knack in placing of the hot 
towels that should be practiced. If simply 
put on to cover the face without pressing 
it down with the hands, it has not the same 
steaming effect and is less comfortable. 
You should, of course, always give your 
customer breathing space at the nose and 
mouth. 

Now we will apply the cold towels and 
the number will be according to your cus- 
tomer's wishes. Always let your customer 
know before applying the cold towel that 



Things to Remember 



A small piece of cotton is 
desirable for removing cream 
from the face, and it saves 
linen. 



Avoid shocking your cus- 
tomer with the sudden appli- 
cation of a cold towel. Advise 
him first of your intent. 



Page one hundred seventy-one 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



A certain amount of make- 
up is desired by most men at 
the finish of the treatment. 



Do not hesitate to use the 
eyebrow pencil, lipstick, or 
rouge if your customer desires 
it. It is a part of modern bar- 
bering. 



you are doing this, for if he does not know 
of the change from the hot to cold, it is 
too sudden a shock. The cold towels are 
to close the pores and harden the tissues 
before the customer leaves your chair. 

Now the manner of general finish is ac- 
cording to the shop practice. An astring- 
ent is recommended after the cold towels, 
and I wish to caution you against the in- 
ferior grades. Lotions can contain too 
great a quantity of alcohol to be beneficial 
or so little that there is no benefit. The 
well-known brands are usually satisfac- 
tory for this purpose. 

After applying the lotion, the face 
should be carefully dried, and in this re- 
gard many barbers are rather careless. 
Not too much rubbing with the towel over 
the face, but rather the hand over the towel 
as it lays on the face is a better method, 
and care should be given to every part to 
be thoroughly dried before the powder is 
applied. 

Now as to the matter of powder, a 
straight talcum would be satisfactory, but 
as with women, so with men, a tinted and 
scented powder of a higher quality than 
straight talcum is preferred, so I suggest 
that you give some thought to the buying 
of better powders to finish your facial 
treatments, and use a little more care in 
applying them. There is something to 
make-up in men's facial massage as well as 
women's. 

We will now raise the chair and remove 
the protecting towel from the head and 



Page one hundred seventy-two 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



lather the back of the neck and wipe off 
with a hot towel. This is to remove the 
cream that may have collected on the neck 
from giving this treatment. Be sure and 
dry the neck thoroughly before applying 
powder. Now is the time to suggest your 
tonic or scalp treatment while you are go- 
ing over the head with a few light finger 
manipulations, but as it is not part of this 
lesson we will omit it and proceed in 
the combing of the hair. Careful comb- 
ing is as important as any other part of the 
barber profession, for no matter how sci- 
entifically your facial may have been given, 
if your customer is not turned out im- 
proved in appearance he is not satisfied. 

There are many other methods of giving 
the facial treatment, those that are put into 
effect for women's work, but there has 
been nothing devised for the barber — un- 
til the present — that in any way resembles 
a scientific treatment, and the abuse that 
has been imposed upon the trade has well 
nigh ruined one of the best paying parts 
of barbering. 

It is to be hoped the graduate will be 
able to reclaim this part of the profes- 
sional service by showing the old barber 
how to give scientific treatments. 



The Vibrator is used the same 
as the Violet Ray but does not 
convey electricity to the 
customer. Electricity simply 
furnishes the power to drive 
the machine. 




Things to Remember 



// you have given a good 
treatment, you have sold your- 
self to your customer and only 
a reminder will be necessary 
to sell your goods. 



"Tell me not in mournful 
numbers, 

Life is but an empty dream, 

Nor the soul is dead that slum- 
bers, 

And we are what the barber 
makes us seem. 



Hand vibrator 



Pjge one hundred seventy-three 



Thirteen 

(Continued) 



Lesson 

Subject 

FACIAL TREATMENTS 



Things to Remember 



The clay pack is not bene- 
ficial unless the material is 
quite heavily applied and thor- 
oughly dried. 



Remember your customer is 
muscled with your face mask; 
do not encourage him to talk. 



Continued 

Packs 

n^HE facial packs are of two kinds, the 
clay and bleach. The application of 
the clay packs should be given after the 
face has been prepared as for cream, as 
previously described. 

We will also omit the instructions in 
preparing your customer and arranging 
your linen as this will be identically the 
same as the instructions set forth in our 
lecture on Scientific Facials. The face 
should be steamed and put in the same con- 
dition as was described to you in the les- 
son on facials. 

As soon as you apply your first steamed 
towel, kindly ask your customer to relax 
and become just as passive as possible so 
he will receive the full benefit of the treat- 
ment. Do not carry on a conversa- 
tion with either your customer or any one 
else in the shop, as you should concen- 
trate your whole mind on your work. 

Try to convey a magnetic cycle from 
yourself to your customer. This can be 
accomplished through your hands, which 
are the greatest instruments we have to 
produce a magnetic power if you will 
learn how to use them. 



Page one hundred seventy- four 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

Things to Remember 



The slightest attention given 
to other things rather than the 
treatment, will be noticed by 
the customer, even tho the eyes 
arc closed 




Facial pack 

Now cover the eye-brows, eye-lashes 
and lips with a thin coat of cold cream or 
cover with a thin layer of cotton as 
the pack will bleach the eye-brows and 
lashes if it comes in direct contact with 
them. 

Spread the pack on in a heavy mask 
from 1/16 to 1/8 inch thick giving it a 
sufficient body to allow it some drawing 
strength and require a sufficient length 
of time to dry so that it will have its bleach- 
ing effect. It can be spread with the fingers 
while the face is hot, so the work should be 
done quickly. 

If your customer has time, you can 
let the treatment remain on until it dries of 
its own accord, but if it must be hurried, 
you can use light fanning with a towel. Do 
not use an electric fan. From 15 to 25 
minutes should be given, but it is often lim- 
ited to 5 and 10 minutes. This, however, 
does not give the benefit that the treat- 
ment is intended to give. 



Slow drying gives the ma- 
terials time to do their zvork. 
On again, off again, out again, 
never comes back again. 



Page one hundred seventy-five 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember 



A dermal lamp consists of 
a colored light zvith strong re- 
flector. It has astringent qual- 
ities. 



A series of treatments 
should be sold to derive bene- 
fits. 




Drying facial pack 



If you wish to hasten the drying of the 
pack, you may use the Dermal Lamp, as 
the rays of the light have heating proper- 
ties that can be equalled by no other pro- 
cess. 

This treatment is considered one of the 
most beneficial that can be given and is 
endorsed by many leading physicians 
throughout the country. It stimulates the 
nerves and increases the circulation. 

You must also inform your customer 
that they can not expect to derive much 
benefit from a single treatment. But if 
they will take a series of treatments, of 
about two treatments each week for sev- 
eral months, they will notice astonishing 
results. 

If you were ill and would send for a 
physician and he would prescribe medi- 
cine to be taken every two hours, you 
could not expect a noticeable change after 
the first dose, but if you would follow the 



Page one hundred seventy-six 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



physicians instructions, undoubtedly you 
would become well. The same rule applies 
to our profession and it is up to the barber 
to convey this message to his customer. 
Otherwise, you will not attain the degree 
of success that the profession entitles you 
to. 

History tells us that clay packs were 
given centuries ago, but it is only in recent 
years that these treatments have been given 
scientifically, and in the past few years 
these treatments have increased the re- 
ceipts of Barber Shops and Beauty Par- 
lor establishments more than any other 
known treatment, as the public have 
learned to know the benefits derived from 
them, providing, however, they are given 
properly, and I ask that you follow the in- 
structions we set forth. 



Things to Remember 



Remember when you were 
a little boy and you pulled a 
chunk of dried mud off your 
leg, what a nice little pink and 
white spot it left. This is the 
principle of a clay treatment. 



When perfectly dry remove with a moist 
towel. You may lay the towel over the 
face to thoroughly moisten, then wipe off 
as you would the cream. This can be done 
with one towel at one operation if properly 
handled. Start at the forehead, remove 
the clay from forehead, then from nose 
and cheeks working down, taking all of the 
clay as you go. 

You finish under the chin with the face 
practically free from the treatment. Now 
apply one or two hot towels and then the 
special cold cream that goes with the treat- 
ment. The special cream usually is a part 
of the set. 



Don't make a muss remov- 
ing the clay from the face. It 
can be done with one towel, 
and that not badly soiled. 



Page one hundred seventy-seven 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



Avoid here severe astringent 
lotions. The skin is nozu ten- 
der. 



Give a light massage with the cream, 
then remove with the towel or paper tissue 
that is frequently used for this purpose, 
apply another hot towel and give a lotion, 
dry and use the powder that is a part of the 
set and that completes the operation. The 
best results are obtained where the com- 
plete set is used. 



Face Bleach 

A bleach is frequently desired to remove 
sunburn, freckles and tan, and the treat- 
ment is the same as for the pack just de- 
scribed, except that the bleach is made of 
an almond meal combination. About the 
same length of time is required to dry and 
the same treatment is given after it is re- 
moved. The formulae for these packs are 
given in our Manual of Beauty Culture 
and will be furnished to you if you desire, 
but the made up preparations are prefer- 
able to making up this formula. 



77/£ Moler picture lecture 
given zvith with colored slides 
is a medical treatise worth to 
the thinking barber more than 
an entire barber course costs. 



In the following lesson I have tried to 
describe and illustrate the most common 
skin diseases with which the barber will 
come in contact. As a barber you are not 
expected to treat diseases but you are ex- 
pected to know enough about them to pre- 
vent the spread of contagion, thereby pro- 
tecting yourself and customer, and you are 
allowed to give such external applications 
as your customer may be induced to ac- 
cept so long as you do not interfere with 
laws governing the medical profession. 



Page one hundred seventy-eight 



Lesson 



Fourteen 



Subject 

SCALP TREATMENTS 



Shampooing 

r PHE shampoo is the most abused work 
in the barber shop. If a shampoo were 
simply to clean the hair the customer 
would do that at home in his bath tub, but 
as it is a service the customer desires as 
well as the cleansing of the hair and scalp, 
it must be looked upon as something more 
than a head wash. 

Before starting the actual work, have all 
materials, linen, lavatory and all ready for 
use that your customer will not be kept 
waiting with the lathered head while you 
prepare the linen or the basin. 

If the shampoo is to be given with your 
customer leaning forward, have a clean 
towel spread across the rim of the lava- 
tory, have the water in the shampoo faucet 
properly tempered, have the stool in its 
place for your customer to sit down, 

Now prepare your customer the same as 
you did for hair cutting and be careful 
that the hair-cloth does not come in con- 
tact with the customer's neck, and in addi- 



Things to Remember 



A shampoo is more than skin 
deep. When properly done, it 
is a service the customer is 
willing to pay for. 



An interesting experiment is 
to give three amplications of 
soap to the same head, laying 
a handful of lather on a piece 
of ivhite paper after each, and 
note the difference of the three 
pieces. Yon zvill be surprised 
at the results. 



Page one hundred seventy-nine 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



Care should be oivcn to the 
selection of materials used for 
the several conditions of the 
scalp. 



Note a shampoo is not a 
scalp treatment, but it is the 
prelude to one. Guard against 
getting soap and water into 
the eyes, ears, nose and mouth. 
Your customer may not want 
to hold his breath more than 
tzventy minutes. 



tion to the towel that you have used around 
the neck, place a small hand towel, one on 
each side with one edge of the towel tucked 
under the neck band. This not only af- 
fords extra protection for your customer's 
garments, but also protects your haircloth. 

In some instances the barber ties an ad- 
ditional towel around the neck as a pro- 
tection, but if one is careful this is not nec- 
essary. 

You will now ascertain what prepara- 
tions your customer prefers, whether it be 
a liquid, a soap, an tgg or other materials. 
When this has been ascertained, give the 
scalp a light massage by running the fing- 
ers into the hair, the hands opposite each 
other, and go all over the scalp with a light 
rubbing to loosen the dandruff, loosen the 
scalp and put the hair in a condition to 
receive the shampoo material. 



<c\i 







Lathering for shampoo 



I wish to caution you to be sure and have 
a nice, creamy lather of the same con- 
sistency as you do for shaving. Usually 



Page one hundred eighty 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



you will spend about five minutes at this 
rubbing before the lather begins to reduce 
itself and be sure that you rub with the 
balls of the fingers, not the nails. 

Give sufficient pressure to satisfy your 
customer. You will see him flinch if you 
rub a little too hard or he will seem a little 
uneasy if you are not rubbing hard enough. 
In your rubbing keep one hand working op- 
posite the other. They may be spread so 
they will work up and down on the sides 
with your position in back, or you may step 
around to the side, working your hands on 
the top and back of the head in opposition 
to each other. Do this in a manner that it 
will not unduly shake the customer's head, 
and as the lather begins to subside, if you 
have not given a sufficient amount of rub- 
bing, make another application of the ma- 
terial. 




Things to Remember 



Tempering the water after 
your customer is bent over the 
ivashstand denotes poor man- 
agement. Have matters of 
this kind arranged in advance. 



To carefully wipe the face 
and quite thoroughly dry the 
hair before alloivin" the cus- 
tomer to raise his head, is a 
part of good shampooing. 



An advanced method of rinsing shampoo where a lavatory is 

convenient to the chair. Shampoo board attachment same 

as ladies work. 



Page one hundred eighty-one 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



A customer may think von 
have completed your work if 
you leave him alone for a sec- 
ond after finishing the spray. 
See to it that lie does not raise 
until you have completed the 
drying. 



A lot of practice will be nec- 
essary for the exercise called 
raindrops. It must be a Iwht 
drumming movement with lim- 
ber wrists and fingers. 



After the proper rubbing and massag- 
ing, if you have not an individual work- 
stand in front of your chair, lead your 
customer to the stand that has been pre- 
pared, lean him well over the basin, draw 
the water to see that it is properly tempered 
and apply it mildly at first. If you have 
not compelled your customer to lean far 
enough over the water will run down his 
neck. Avoid this by having the customer's 
seat at the proper height to enable him to 
lean over the basin. 




Rinsing shampoo for forward shampoo 

Give ample rinsing to the hair. Do not 
be satisfied as soon as you have removed 
the lather. If the hair is sticky after the 
soap is washed out, make another applica- 
tion and wash it a second or even a third 
time to have the hair free from oil or 
grease. 

As soon as you stop your play of water 
on the head, your customer is inclined to 
raise up so be in a position to keep him over 



Page one hundred eighty-tzvo 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



the bowl until you have had time to par- 
tially dry the hair, then as he raises up have 
a towel ready to dry the forehead, eyes 
and ears and catch all of the water that 
may drip down the neck. A towel laid 
over the head as your customer returns to 
his chair will keep the moisture from run- 
ning down the neck or into the face and 
eyes. As your customer is seated, you 
will hurriedly start drying the hair to pre- 
vent its dripping. 

Use a face towel folded in the center the 
short way using the hands opposite each 
other in the towel with only the first 
finger of each hand out. Now spread this 
so folded over the head with the hands in 
the towel and hastily rub through the hair. 
As the side of the towel next to the hair 
becomes moist, turn it around to use the 
other end. 



Things to Remember 



Hair will be light and fluffy 
if properly shampooed and 
thoroughly dried. If it is not, 
when you have completed, you 
have not properly done your 
work. 




Rain drops have earned me 
a great many dollars while the 
other barbers zvcre looking on. 
It will do the same for you 
if you execute it properly. 



Exercise for drumming scalp after shampoo 



Pagt 



hundred eighty-three 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



The following is a good for- 
mula to be used for Seborrhea 
Oleosa — 

1 Teaspoon salt 

2 eggs 

3 tablespoons witch hazel. 

Beat together. Rub well 
into scalp. Rinse with tepid 
water. 



You can economize on linen if you will 
use the towels that you have placed around 
the neck at the beginning of this treat- 
ment. And give special attention to dry- 
ing the eyes, the ears, around the neck, 
etc. 

The hair is never left in a desirable con- 
dition unless it has been rubbed sufficiently 
well to thoroughly dry it and after finish- 
ing with the towels, a very nice way to 
complete your work is to rub your fingers 
through the hair. Give a back and forth 
movement with the fingers held loosely 
letting them lightly drum on the scalp as 
you rapidly move them back and forth. 
This drumming is called raindrops and is 
a pleasant and splendid finish to the service. 



Use three rinsings, rubbing 
each into the scalp, and do not 
follow with tonic containing oil 
or glycerine. 




Exercise for drumming scalp after shampoo 



Page one hundred eighty-four 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

Things to Remember 



Treatment for Seborrhea- 
sicca, 




4 ( 



Shampoo with material con- 
taining no alkali such as pure 
castille soap. Follow with tonic 
of an oily nature. Avoid tonic 
with alcoholic basis. This 
treatment should be applied as 
hot as the scalp can comfort- 
ably stand it. 



CONSTRUCTION OF HAIR 



1. Epidermis. 

2. Papilla. 

3. Derma. 

4. Alveolar Tissue. 

5. Adipose. 

6. Arrector Muscle. 

7. Horny Layer of Hair. 

8. Germinative Layer. 

9. Duct of Sebaceous Gland. 

10. Sebaceous Gland. 

11. Root of Hair. 

12. Hair Follicle. 

13. Adipose Tissue. 

14. Glomerulus Sweat Gland. 

15. Bulb of Hair. 

16. Papilla of Hair. 



When treating a scalp to de- 
stroy disease germs, also treat 
the hat band or other materials 
coming in contact with the 
head. The hat band may be 
treated with live steam or 
washed with alcohol, or placed 
in an airtight compartment 
with formeldehyde while the 
treatment is being given. 



Page one hundred eighty-five 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



Oil treatments are success- 
ful if properly given, but like 
other treatments the head 
should be first thoroughly 
washed, and the oil applied hot. 



Treatment of eczema is the 
exception to the rule of sham- 
pooing thoroughly before the 
treatment. 



SCALP AILMENTS 
TN order to treat the scalp in a scientific 

manner and promote the growth of the 
hair, it is well to know something about 
the formation and anatomy of the scalp. 
In the average growth of hair you will 
find about 182 hairs to the square inch. 
The average life of the hair is approxi- 
mately five to six years. This differs with 
individual peculiarity and the general 
health. 

When a hair has reached its full term 
of existence it falls and is replaced by a 
new hair. The hair is not an independent 
growth, but it depends upon the circulation 
of the body and scalp for its nourishment. 

The scalp is merely the covering of part 
of a healthy body, and should receive the 
care which its functions demand. Natur- 
ally healthy hair requires merely to be kept 
clean by frequently shampooing and brush- 
ing. The brushing of the hair is very im- 
portant as it stimulates circulation and 
promotes a gloss to the hair. 

The construction of the hair is the same 
whether it is on the scalp or any other 
portion of the body. 

The follicle is a depression or pocket 
which extends from the outer surface of 
the skin a quarter to one-third of an inch 
down into the true skin. At the bottom 
of the follicle we find a cone shaped mass 
of cells containing blood vessels which sup- 
ply the hair with nourishment. This mass 
is called Papilla. The bulb or root of the 
hair is hollowed out and fits over the pa- 
pilla. Each follicle has one or more se- 



Page one hundred eighty-six 






THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



baceous glands, which open into it and sup- 
ply the oil to the hair. The root is the 
white, soft bulb seen within the follicle. 
The portion outside is called the shaft. 
Each hair is provided with a tiny muscle. 
This muscle is affected by fear or cold, and 
when the hair stands on end it is this 
muscle which contracts. In that part of the 
hair shaft which extends beyond the scalp 
there are usually three divisions or illus- 
tration layers. Each layer has its own 
purpose. The outward layer or cuticle 
gives strength to the hair and is composed 
of overlapping horny scales. The middle 
layer contains the pigment. This pigment 
gives color to the hair and lies in cells 
very near to the surface of the hair. 

The center layer is composed of small 
round cells and is called the Medulla. The 
hair is not perfectly round, varying in 
different individuals, in some instances be- 
ing almost flat. It is this flattening of the 
shaft that makes curly hair; when round, 
straight hair results. The functions of the 
hair are protection and adornment. 

Dr. Wildner, M. D., claims that the thy- 
roid gland, the adrenal glands and repro- 
ductive glands are all responsible in one 
way or another for the loss or lack of hair. 
The chemical analysis of hair shows that 
the hair contains large amounts of Sili- 
con, 20 per cent iron, 10 per cent manga- 
nese, 5 per cent sulphur, and a consider- 
able amount of lime, potassium and iodine, 
besides arsenic and copper. The kind of 
food eaten has undoubtedly an influence 
upon the hair. 



Things to Remember 



Scalp treatments should be 
given in series; single treat- 
ments are of no avail in most 
instances. 



Tell your customer when to 
return for the next treatment. 
He must abide by your in- 
structions to obtain results. 



Page one hundred eighty-seven 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



The propaganda should be 
to save hair, not to restore 
after it is gone. Keep this 
before the public's mind and 
you will profit by it. 



If your shop smacks of a 
hospital it is more desirable 
than an amusement parlor. 
Rest and relaxation do not 
blend with the banjo. 



In giving a scalp treatment or massage 
it is necessary to examine the scalp thor- 
oughly and determine the cause of falling 
hair or other abnormal conditions existing 
there. Loss of hair is usually caused by 
illness, run down condition of the system, 
or some germ life existing that destroys 
the follicle. 

Never make rash promises of immedi- 
ate results to a customer as the scalp has 
been undergoing atrophic changes before 
symptoms are apparent. In some cases of 
scalp trouble of long standing no apparent 
improvement is shown in less than three 
months, although some conditions of the 
scalp respond readily to treatment and re- 
sults are shown in a short time. 

Any condition that directly affects the 
scalp effects the growth of the hair, there- 
fore in treating the scalp you are directly 
promoting the growth of the hair. The 
object of scalp treatment is to stimulate, 
vitalize and build up the scalp. Therefore 
in giving scalp treatments, the massaging 
of the scalp in applying the ointments, 
tonics, etc., is a very important matter. 

It should be given with the direct ob- 
ject of promoting the circulation of blood 
in order to bring the healthy glow to the 
scalp and nourish the roots and it should 
be the barber's desire to give real benefit 
to the customer when giving a massage or 
scalp treatment. 

Never try to tell your customer that you 
can cure an abnormal condition of the 
scalp in a specified number of treatments, 



Page one hundred eighty-eight 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



as it depends entirely on the way the scalp 
responds to the treatment just how many 
treatments will be necessary to be given. 

Impress upon your customer's mind the 
necessity for regular and systematic treat- 
ments, as no improvement can be assured 
unless the treatments are given at least 
once a week and in extreme cases twice 
or three times a week until some improve- 
ment is shown. Then the treatment can 
be reduced to once a week. This should al- 
ways be explained to the customer when 
treatment is decided upon. 

Great care must be taken to be thor- 
oughly antiseptic about your work in scalp 
treatments. Combs and brushes must be 
thoroughly sterilized after using on every 
customer by washing in hot water and dip- 
ping in a 4 per cent solution of carbolic 
acid or a 4 per cent solution of formaline, 
then placed in a cabinet. Any electric ap- 
pliance that comes directly in contact with 
the scalp should be taken care of in the 
same manner. The same precaution 
should apply to the combs and brushes. 
The hands should always be thoroughly 
washed and dipped in a very light anti- 
septic solution, as a protection to yourself 
as well as your customers. 

The hair cloth should be used only once 
after treating a customer that has any con- 
dition of scalp that could be conveyed to 
the next customer through coming in con- 
tact with the hair cloth. 

Always remember that shampooing has 
no direct bearing on scalp treatment. 
While frequent shampoos must be given 



Things to Remember 



A treatment known as the 
"Manhattan" developed by the 
Terminal System of New York 
is used and recommended by 
the Moler System. Formulae 
cannot be given however, in 
this publication. 



I wonder if you have ever 
heard of teasing the hair. This 
is an expression used in some 
sections for ruffinrr, but it is 
not good practice. 



Page one hundred eighty-nine 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



A tight scalp should be loos- 
ened by degrees. Do not at- 
tempt to complete the treat- 
ment in one application. 



Extreme heat given to the 
scalp by wrapping in hot 
tozvels, may be overdone and 
become injurious. It is better 
weekly practice rather than 
daily. 



in order to cleanse the scalp and hair, this 
is usually advised about every two or three 
weeks. Scalp treatments, however, must 
be given every week, at least, in order to 
obtain results. 

Scalp massage is often given to stimu- 
late the scalp and preserve the luxuriant 
growth of the hair rather than to cure a 
scalp trouble. If the customer should 
wish a shampoo and scalp treatment, the 
shampoo is given first, then followed by 
the treatment required. Hot olive oil rub 
is the only treatment given before the 
shampoo. 

Bear in mind that falling hair is not a 
disease but a symptom. It is nature's 
method of calling your attention to some 
abnormal condition existing at the scalp. 
When a customer asks you what to do for 
falling hair, always explain that you will 
treat the cause and that in this way by 
treating the cause, nature cures it and the 
result is the falling hair stops of its own 
accord. 

The general health of the customer must 
be taken into consideration when scalp 
treatments are to be given, as any condi- 
tion that directly affects the circulation or 
nervous system, such as anemia or shock 
resulting from an operation, will cause fal- 
ling hair. However, as the general health 
improves, the scalp will also show signs 
of improvement. When it is observed that 
treatments are necessary, as he may not be 
aware of the condition that exists there, 
explain in an intelligent way the nature 
of the trouble and the treatments that are 



Page one hundred ninety 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



best suited for it. Get your customer in- 
terested, not only for his good but for 
your own as well. 

The following directions will suggest 
treatments for the ordinary manifestations 
that come within the experience of the 
barber. 

Alopecia 

This is the scalp disease that causes 
baldness and is classified in four types. 




Allopecia Areata 



Alopecia Areata 
Baldness in spots is a parasitic infec- 
tion and is usually found on persons of 
nervous disposition. This disease directly 
attacks the hair follicle, causing great loss 
of hair. There is no indications on the 
scalp of any trouble existing there, only 
the bald spots. However, in some cases 
there is a slight scaly condition existing on 
bald spots. This disease is found on the 
scalp of both men and women, but men are 
more prone to this trouble than women, as 
it is often induced by tight hat bands. 



Things to Remember 



Do not attempt to diagnose 
complicated diseases. Refer 
tilings you do not understand 
to a physician. 



Treating Alopecia Areata 
meets with slow results. Do 
not let your customer become 
dissatisfied or discouraged with 
a few applications. 



Page one hundred ninety-one 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



Do not waste time treating 
Alopecia Senilis. Let age take 
its toll if it ntust. 



Alopecia Senilis 
This type of baldness is an unmistak- 
able sign y of age. The vital forces of the 
hair SSn to weaken, and there is a grad- 
ual thinning out of the hair all over the 
scab Alopecia Senilis does not form in 
spots bui affects the entire scalp. Good 
ca?e and hygienic living help to preserve 
the hair in this condition. 

If treated the treatment would be the 
same as Alopecia Areata. 

Alopecia Premature. 

This type of baldness is usually caused 

from improper care of the hair, the use of 

„g ionics that contain much alcohol 

To fhe use of strong a^ ah e soap for 

the verv best grade of shampoo, such as 
Jure ca'stde solp, Fitch's, Taroleum and 
other good, reliable brands, as they are es 
pecLll^ prepared with the object of pre- 
serving the natural oils as well as to 
Means? the scalp. These shampoo mater i- 
ds are preparedly chemists trained aong 
this line This condition appears about th« 
age of 20 to 35 years. 
To become prematurely UU The first step ^wds trea^ Atope^ 
nay not mean permanently Premature is to discontinue the use o 
bald. This is worth goma af- hkh caused it . After this the ^B» 



Page one hundred ninety-two 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



treatment immediately after shampooing. 
The treatment with sulphur ointment, etc., 
must be given at least once a week, while 
the hot olive oil rubs and shampoo are 
given every ten days or two weeks. If 
this treatment is kept up regularly for 
some time a decided improvement will be 
shown in the condition of both scalp and 
hair. 

Congenital Baldness 

This type of Alopecia is usually inher- 
ited and is a condition for which there is 
little to offer in the way of improvement, 
As the scalp does not provide the ordinary 
hair producing elements, all forms o£ 
treatment are of no avail. 

In some cases the sebaceous glands and 
hair folicles exist, but the root papilla is 
lacking. The sebaceous glands of the scalp 
open directly on the scalp and usually give 
it an extremely oily appearance. 

Seborrhea 

(Commonly known as Dandruff) 

This is a disease of the Sebaceous 
glands of the scalp and is found in two 
forms, the oily and dry. 

Seborrhea Oleosa 

This type is of an extremely oily na- 
ture. The pores of the scalp are usually 
enlarged and filled with sebum. This 
type is found elsewhere besides on the 
scalp. It is shining and glistening with 
oil. The hair is often found matted, owing 
to the excessive oil, and the scalp is usu- 
ally colorless and debilitated looking. 



Things to Remember 



The bald headed barber 
need not despair when the cus- 
tomer knows as much about 
baldness as you do. He will 
give due consideration to his 
own case, even submit to be- 
ing treated by a bald headed 
barber. 



Would Seborrhea if called 
dandruff sound as dangerous ? 



Page one hundred ninety-three 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



Do not waste time treating 
Alopecia Senilis. Let age take 
its toll if it must. 



To become prematurely bald 
may not mean permanently 
bald. This is worth going af- 
ter. 



Alopecia Senilis 

This type of baldness is an unmistak- 
able sign of age. The vital forces of the 
hair begin to weaken, and there is a grad- 
ual thinning out of the hair all over the 
scalp. Alopecia Senilis does not form in 
spots but affects the entire scalp. Good 
care and hygienic living help to preserve 
the hair in this condition. 

If treated the treatment would be the 
same as Alopecia Areata. 

Alopecia Prematuro 

This type of baldness is usually caused 
from improper care of the hair, the use of 
strong tonics that contain much alcohol, 
also the use of strong alkalide soap for 
shampooing that diminishes the natural 
oils in the scalp. I would recommend only 
the very best grade of shampoo, such as 
pure castile soap, Fitch's, Taroleum, and 
other good, reliable brands, as they are es- 
pecially prepared with the object of pre- 
serving the natural oils as well as to 
cleanse the scalp. These shampoo materi- 
als are prepared by chemists trained along 
this line. This condition appears about the 
age of 20 to 35 years. 

The first step towards treating Alopecia 
Prematuro is to discontinue the use of that 
which caused it. After this the scalp must 
be nourished and built up, therefore the 
hot olive oil rub is advisable before the 
shampoo, which should be given about 
every two weeks. This is followed by a 
sulphur ointment and high frequency 



Fage one hundred ninety-two 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



treatment immediately after shampooing. 
The treatment with sulphur ointment, etc., 
must be given at least once a week, while 
the hot olive oil rubs and shampoo are 
given every ten days or two weeks. If 
this treatment is kept up regularly for 
some time a decided improvement will be 
shown in the condition of both scalp and 
hair. 

Congenital Baldness 

This type of Alopecia is usually inher- 
ited and is a condition for which there is 
little to offer in the way of improvement, 
As the scalp does not provide the ordinary 
hair producing elements, all forms o£ 
treatment are of no avail. 

In some cases the sebaceous glands and 
hair folicles exist, but the root papilla is 
lacking. The sebaceous glands of the scalp 
open directly on the scalp and usually give 
it an extremely oily appearance. 

Seborrhea 

(Commonly known as Dandruff) 

This is a disease of the Sebaceous 
glands of the scalp and is found in two 
forms, the oily and dry. 

Seborrhea Oleosa 

This type is of an extremely oily na- 
ture. The pores of the scalp are usually 
enlarged and rilled with sebum. This 
type is found elsewhere besides on the 
scalp. It is shining and glistening with 
oil. The hair is often found matted, owing 
to the excessive oil, and the scalp is usu- 
ally colorless and debilitated looking. 



Things to Remember 



The bald headed barber 
need not despair when the cus- 
tomer knows as much about 
baldness as you do. He will 
give due consideration to his 
own case, even submit to be- 
ing treated by a bald headed 
barber. 



Would Seborrhea if called 
dandruff sound as dangerous ? 



Page one hundred ninety-three 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 
Things to Remember Seborrhea Sicca 

This is the dry, scaly type and manifests 

itself in different forms on the scalp. The 

hair is less oily in this form of Seborrhea 

. , , . , , ' but often very thin. The flaky type ap- 
A sprinkle of dandruff over i n ,• i t • t, 

,, . 77 • , ■ x pears m bran-like particles, which are 

the coat collar is not a sign of , . . l r . . 

dangerous disease. It is sim- r ™efly objectionable on account of their 
ply a sign for the barber to Mling upon the shoulders. They show 
do his stuff. -ry plainly on dark clothing'. 

Powdered Forms 
This type of Seborrhea is very destruc- 
ive to the hair as it clogs the pores of the 
scalp and disturbs circulation, and in this 
way destroys the life and growth of the 
.hair. In advanced cases of powdered 
dandruff the hair is usually dry, brittle 
and lifeless, and there is a gradual thin- 
ning- of the hair. 

The treatment for Seborrhea Sicca or 
dandruff is, hot olive oil rub given before 
the shampoo. After shampoo sulphur 
ointment and high frequency treatment is 
given. This treatment is repeated once 
or twice each week, between shampooing 
periods. After disease has somewhat 
been relieved an occasional tonic and vi- 
bratory treatment can be substituted for 
a high frequency treatment. 
Pityriasis 
In ages to come, if you have This scal tr0llb l e is f ten confused 

cured all scalp diseases the bar- .,« , , £r , ., . , ., , . r™ 

ber will still find something to wlth dandruff by the intense itching. Then 
do, so do not worry about him. is no eruption on the scalp, but bran-lib 

deposits often form and the hair is lus- 
terless and dry and there is a continuous 
falling of the hair. 

The treatment is the same as for Se- 
borrhea. 



Page one hundred ninety-four 



T HE BARBERS' MANU A L 



Psoriasis 

This is a skin as well as a scalp disease 
and is sometimes found on the face, but 
more frequently on the scalp. It is some- 
times confused with Eczema, but there is 
not so much irritation nor intense itching 
as Eczema. 

Psoriasis forms on the scalp in white, 
shiny scales or crusts with healthy skin in- 
tervening. They adhere very closely to 
the scalp and are very thick and hard and 
elevated above the healthy skin. This 
thick-like crust of scales gradually loosens 
from the scalp and a yellow serum oozes 
from the pores. As the disease advances, 
this serum is mixed with blood and usually 
forms into a sore-like scab. In time this 
scab falls off and the hair falls with it. 
At this stage the hair follicle is destroyed 
and baldness often takes place. Tiny 
bran-like particles loosen from the crust 
and adhere to the hair like nits or the bark 
on a tree for two or three inches from the 
scalp. 

Psoriasis is often found on other parts 
of the body, but does not affect the Se- 
baceous glands. Great care must be taken 
when combing a head when affected as any 
undue pressure of comb or brush causes 
bleeding. This would have a tendency to 
aggravate the condition. The treatment 
is the same as for Seborrhea. 



Eczema 

This is a disease of both skin and scalp 
and manifests itself in three different 
types. 



Things to Remember 



A comfortable scalp treat- 
ment is enjoyed by the custom- 
er even if he is not guaranteed 
other results. 



A tender or diseased scalp 
requires care fid nursing. A 
penetrating hair brush is not 
the right nurse. 



Page one hundred ninety- five 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



This form of scah disease 
may not come within the bar- 
bers range of treatment. Use 
oood judgement in attempting 
bad cases. 



Because a customer requests 
you to bear down hard on an 
itching scalp is no sign you 
should do so. Follozv scentific 
instruction. 



Vesicular 

or weeping type of Eczema is usually dis- 
cerned by large patches of tiny blisters. 
As this disease is always accompanied by 
intense itching, these tiny blisters are 
broken by scratching. The secretion from 
the blisters oozes over the scab and often 
results in the entire scalp being covered 
with these blisters. 

Pustular Type 

Pustular type is found oftenest and is 
usually seen on under-nourished people. 

Papular or Pimply Type 
is discerned by round pimples the size of a 
pin head (bright red). These pimples 
often fill with a colorless fluid. The itch- 
ing is intense and often from scratching 
the pimples will be found covered with 
brownish scabs or dried blood. 

Erythematous or Red 

This type of eczema is the most com- 
monly seen and consists of a large surface 
covered with red spots which often have a 
yellowish tinge. These spots vary in size. 
There is intense itching, swelling and 
burning of the affected parts and finally 
become scaly if the skin is broken. A 
serum oozes out. One of the pronounced 
symptoms of Eczema is the intense itch- 
ing and burning. 

The same treatment for Eczema as for 
Seborrhea, but it should be given twice a 
week, and if intense burning, a zinc oint- 
ment is applied to the scalp between treat- 
ments. Great care should be taken in 
shampooing a head with Eczema to use 



Page one hundred ninety-six 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



only a medicated soap and very little wash- 
ing until it is cured, as soap and water 
excites Eczema and makes it worse. If 
after a reasonable length of time the case 
does not yield, you should send the cus- 
tomer to a reliable physician. 




III.! 

fM..lJ%§m 




Syphilitic scalp 

Syphilis 

This disease often attacks the hair and 
scalp, particularly at the nape of the neck, 
and looks like moth-eaten spots and is usu- 
ally found in the secondary stage. Ordi- 
narily it is not difficult to recognize the 
distinctive features of this disease. 
Treatment of this disease does not come 
within the scope of the barber, and the cus- 
tomer should be referred at once to a com- 
petent physician. While the barber does 
not treat this disease, it is well for him to 
be able to recognize it, not only for the 
protection of the customers but his own 
health as well. 

It is always advisable to wear rubber 
gloves in examining a scalp in order to be 
on the safe side. 



Things to Remember 



Refer these cases to a physi- 
cian and do not attempt to af- 
ect a cure. 



You benefit humanitv by 
knowing these diseases by 
sight, and avoiding them. 



Page one hundred ninety-seven 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



High frequency is a germ 
destroyer, and probably is 
more effective than most any 
other treatment, for contag- 
ious ailment. 



You may give treatment for 
this disease but I'd turn it over 
to a doctor. 



Alopecia Treatment 

The treatment must be given regularly 
and systematically in order to get results 
in extreme cases, twice a week until im- 
provement is shown, then the treatment 
can be lessened to once a week. In begin- 
ning the treatment, give a hot olive oil 
rub, following this with a shampoo, and 
after the hair is dried paint the spot with 
colorless Iodine, using a small piece of cot- 
ton to apply the same to the scalp. In a 
few days after this treatment has been 
applied, a scalp massage must be given 
with sulphur ointment and high frequency. 

This treatment of high frequency and 
sulphur ointment must be given twice a 
week until the next shampoo period, when 
the hot olive oil rub is given again, follow- 
ing the rub with a shampoo, and again 
paint the spot with iodine. This treat- 
ment is repeated at each shampooing pe- 
riod until the bald spot is covered with a 
real fine downy growth of hair. When the 
spots are in this condition the Iodine is 
omitted and instead the fine hair that is 
on the spot is shaved with a sharp razor. 
This is done after the shampoo. 

Continue with the olive oil rub at the 
shampoo period and shave the bald spots 
only about every third shampooing period. 
The sulphur ointment and high frequency 
are still given regularly once or twice a 
week between the shampoos. 



Page one hundred ninety-eight 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Finger manipulation is given to loosen 
the scalp thereby creating a better circu- 
lation. Before beginning the finger ma- 
nipulations apply either a tonic or an 
ointment. After the scalp is well sat- 
urated, begin the massage with the shut- 
tle movement. The object is to loosen the 
scalp by moving the fingers back and forth, 
allowing the movement of one hand to 
work opposite the other. Continue by 
working up to the top of the scalp, always 
standing 1 behind the customer. 



Things to Remember 



Serious results may follozv 
if careless with high frequency 
treatments : that is why you are 
now learning to be precautious. 



The next movement is to place the balls 
of the fingers of the left hand on top of 
the scalp and, with the right manipulate 
irom back of neck to crown, keeping the 
fingers about one inch apart. Press firmly, 
so that the fingers will have the tendency 
to loosen the scalp without pulling the hair. 
After treating the entire scalp in this man- 
ner, continue with the hands as first de- 
scribed, using a rotary movement. In case 
the tonic is not to be used, proceed with 
massage movements as directed. 

Vibratory Massage 

The vibrator is used for the scalp with 
the rubber applicator, called the brush, in 
place of the rubber cup used for facial 
massage. Apply the tonic the same as for 
other scalp treatments and begin the work 
with the vibrator held in the right hand, 
starting at the base of the scalp, just at the 
side of the spinal column, moving up with 
a firm pressure using the left hand on the 
scalp just in front of the vibrator cup 



A single vibratory massage 
may create circulation, but it 
has not the deep vibration of 
the tzvin exercisers. 



Page one hundred ninety-nine 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



Barbers generally run a vi- 
brator over the scalp promis- 
cuously, or at random. If any 
benefit is to be derived, a sys- 
tem must be learned. 



with sufficient pressure to pull or lift the 
scalp without pulling the hair, working 
up to the crown. 

Repeat, starting at the other side of the 
spinal column working up over the head in 
the same manner, until you have gone 
clear around the head on one side, then 
manipulate on the opposite side the same. 

Now start at the forehead in the center 
and work back in the same manner with 
the left hand giving pressure enough to 
loosen the scalp, while the vibrator, by 
its rapid movement, stimulates the circula- 
tion. Cover the entire scalp in this man- 
ner. This is the process where one vibra- 
tor is used for scalp treatment. 



This is the Amplified Scalp 
Treatment that tvorks wonders 
not only to the scalp, but to the 
zvhole system. 




The new Moler scalp treatment 



There is also the Moler process highly 
recommended, with which two vibrators 
are used at the same time, each hand 
strapped to the head of the flexible shaft 
that causes the hands to vibrate very rap- 
idly while giving the treatment. 



I age tzvo hundred 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Stand behind your customer, using the 
hands opposite each other on the sides of 
the head, with sufficient pressure to let 
the vibration be felt through the entire 
head and down the spine. Work from the 
lower part up to the crown, changing the 
position of the hands as you work around 
the scalp, so that they will work opposite 
each other. 

This treatment may follow a hot oil 
application or a tonic. A vibrator should 
not be used over five minutes for any 
treatment. 

High Frequency 

The rake attachment is used for the 
scalp whereas the bulb electron is used for 
the face, but as you first touch the rake to 
the scalp it is well to have your hand on the 
rake to soften the little sting that your cus- 
tomer feels when the rake is first applied. 
This should be used over the scalp a num- 
ber of times, keeping it always on the head 
rather than picking it up frequently and 
putting it down again, which creates a lit- 
tle irritating spark as it nears the scalp. 



Things to Remember 



This treatment beats riding 
in a Ford. You never know 
how many parts there are of 
you until this machine begins 
slinking you apart. 



Tonic Steam 

A tonic steam is given by a liberal ap- 
plication of tonic and the scalp well rub- 
bed the same as for a massage. Apply 
two or three hot towels and thoroughly 
steam the head, then give another appli- 
cation of tonic, another hot towel or two 



Steam treatments can be too 
frequent. Let's set our dates 
ten days apart. 



Page two hundred one 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Things to Remember 



and then a cold one. This will be found to 
be a very beneficial treatment. Rub thor- 
oughly dry before finishing. 



A lot of good material has 
been wasted simply by putting 
on and taking off. Tonic is 
to rub in. 



Witchhazel may also 
be used for scalp 
steam by applying it 
to hot towel on scalp. 




Crude Oil Treatment 



// a crude oil treatment is 
one hundred per cent., I knoiv 
a lot of millionaires who will 
look up jobs in the oil fields. 



This treatment is given by rubbing 
crude oil on the scalp. Pour in the left 
hand and rub in with the fingers of the 
right hand. As the oil is only a benefit to 
the scalp and the roots of the hair, it 
should not be used too liberal on the hair 
itself. When you have the scalp thor- 
oughly saturated allow the oil to remain 
in place a few minutes and wash out the 
same as the regular shampoo. The oil 
should be of a light specific gravity and 
odorless. 



Page two hundred two 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Singeing 

Singeing- is lo promote the growth of the 
hair. By burning the ends after it has 
been cut it closes the pores of the hair 
keeping the fluid in and preventing the 
ends from splitting. It is one of the best 




Singeing 

remedies for falling hair and it strength- 
ens the growth. Hair can be singed at 
any length. 

Use a singeing taper or gas light ta- 
per in the right hand, with the comb in 
the left, and for short hair, singe over 
comb as in cut. Where the hair is long, 
singe over fingers the same as in cutting- 
long hair. The work is very simple after 
you have learned to trim; still it is a very 
important and a necessary qualification for 
the barber. 



Things to Remember 



Stubborn hair usually combs 
better after it has been singed 
and frequently becomes more 
pliable. 



Electric singeing machines 
are on the market. They con- 
sist of a number of very fine 
wires heated to the burning 
point, but are not universally 
used. 



J'diji' two hundred tin 



Lesson 



Fifteen 



Subject 

HAIR DYE 



The following article was written for the Moler Manual 
of Beauty Culture but is just as adaptable to barbering. 



Technical 



'"THERE has been much discussion 
both for and against the use of 
hair dyes, but it really is a problem 
that one has to decide for themselves. 
There are usually one of these three 
reasons given for dyeing the hair: 

1st: to cover up the grey hair. 
2nd : a desire to change the original 
shade. 




Rubber chair cloth protects 
customer. 



Practical 

EGYPTIAN HENNA 

TN Preparing- customer for hair dye 
**■ place soft cloth or old towel about 
the neck first, then place rubber apron 
about the shoulders, fasten at back of 
neck. Before beginning to dye the 
hair, have everything necessary at 
hand. Operator should also be pro- 
tected with rubber apron and gloves, 
then proceed in the following man- 
ner: 

Shampoo the head thoroughly and 
partly dry hair with towel, not the 
dryer. If the hair is a light shade and 
the Egyptian Henna is to remain on 
the head only a short time, from 10 
minutes to one-half hour, all of the 
work can be done at the shampoo 
board immediately following the 
shampoo. 

Having made up the materials into 
a paste and placed where it will be 
kept hot, now put into a receptacle 
from which it can be easily conveyed 



Page two hundred four 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



to the head (a pitcher is probably 
best). Take position at right of cus- 
tomer's chair and pour it over the 
head gradually working it in well with 
finger tips to every part of the hair. 
Be sure to keep the Egyptian Henna 
hot and distribute it evenly to all 
parts of the head, so as to avoid hav- 
ing any streaks in the hair. 

It is advisable when applying Egyp- 
tian Henna to the hair to apply it to 
the center of the head first then to the 
edges of the hair and to ends last, as 
the hair takes the color around hair 
line and ends quicker. 

After paste has been applied allow 
customer to remain in this position at 
shampoo board the required length of 
time until shade desired is obtained as 
previously explained, then remove 
paste from hair with hot water, sham- 
poo spray, being sure to rinse same 
out of hair thoroughly. It is advis- 
able to remove from edge of hair and 
ends first, then center of hair. This 
is done in order to avoid getting the 
fine hair around edge too red. 

After paste has been thoroughly 
removed from the hair, apply a light 
lather of shampoo liquid, give one 
good lather and rinse well and dry 
the hair. If the Egyptian Henna is 
to remain on hair longer than one- 
half hour, it is best to remove cus- 
tomer to unoccupied booth or space 
after the application that operator 
may proceed with other work while 
this one is waiting. 




Pat the paste into the roots well. 

3rd : to correct unsuccessful work 
done by inexperienced persons. 

There are many instances where hair 
dyeing is justifiable, as it often affects 
one's position in the business world as 
most people are thought of as being 
old if they have grey hair. 

Then, grey hair is unbecoming to 
many persons, making them appear 
years older and their complexions very 
sallow. 

The first hair dye was manufactured 
and used by a Frenchman by the name 
of Monsieur Broux. This took place 
about 40 years ago and since that time 
there has been a vast improvement 
along this line. At the present lime, 
almost any shade that the natural hair 
comes in, can be obtained through hair 
dye. In hair dyeing, it is well to re- 
member, that it is impossible to im- 
prove on nature, and it is always ad- 
visable not to change the original 
shade of the hair as the skin, eyes and 
teeth harmonize best with the shade 
nature has endowed us with. 

It is never advisable to recommend 
hair dyeing to a customer, even though 
it means added revenue to you. Give 
her your sincere opinion and then let 
her decide the question for herself. 
It is a very good plan to keep a record 



Page two hundred five 



THE BARBERS' MA N UAL 




Keep as much heat in as possible 
alter applying Henna Pac. 



of the hair dyes. A card index is best, 
with all the particulars as to shade, 
blending, etc., listed thereon so that 
when a customer returns for another 
hair dye or touch up, this can be re- 
ferred to and there will be no danger 
of using the incorrect shade. 

Hair dye is always applied to hair 
to darken it. It can never be lightened 
by dyeing. The first step in hair dye- 
ing after determining the condition of 
scalp is to decide the shade. Al- 
ways select a shade that is one shade 
lighter than the original shade of hair, 
as by repeated applications the hair 
gradually grows darker. 

The texture of the hair has to be 
taken into consideration, if former 
applications of dye restorers, or bleach 
has been used. Fine hair always ab- 
sorbs the dye much more readily than 
coarse hair. 

In case patron wishes to change 
from the dye she has been using to an- 
other brand, it is always necessary 
to remove the greater portion of the 
old dye before applying the new, other- 
wise the hair may have a greenish or 
purplish tinge, as the chemicals in the 
two dyes often clash and cause this. 

To remove the old dye, olive oil and 
kerosene mixed in equal portions to 
the hair from roots to ends can be ap- 
olied. This is done at night, and 



If hair is long, divide it in four sec- 
tions after the shampoo, from fore- 
head to nape of neck, and across the 
crown from ear to ear. Loop up each 
section as explained in scalp treat- 
ment lesson, apply the Egyptian 
Henna according to instructions pre- 
viously given, but it is best to keep 
the paste in double boiler in order to 
keep it hot. Divide hair into strands 
of each section, apply paste to each 
strand either with a brush or with fin- 
ger tips, working it in well at roots, 
then distributing it down on the long 
hair to ends. Turn strand over to- 
ward head and apply the paste to the 
under side of strand in the same man- 
ner. One strand after the other may 
be treated in this way. After the 
paste has been applied to a section of 
hair, pin it up on head so it will be 
out of your way. 

After the Egyptian Henna has been 
applied to the entire head in this way, 
wrap the head up either in tissue pa- 
per and then in heavy piece of cloth, 
(retained for that purpose, as it stains 
towels) or if the temperature of the 
room is low, apply a layer of obsorbent 
cotton directly over the head before 
placing cloth around same. Some use 
newspapers to cover the head. The 
object is to retain as much of the heat 
as possible as the heat is a very neces- 
sary faction in the use of all Henna 
dyes, and in applying the paste to the 
head, it may be necessary to reheat it 
frequently and it must be applied to 
the hair hot. 



Page tzvo hundred six 



T II E 



A R B E R S ' MANUAL 



After the head has been covered in 
the manner described, the paste is al- 
lowed to remain on the head until the 
desired shade is obtained. Ahvays 
remember the longer the Egyptian 
Henna remains on the hair, the red- 
der the hair gets, also that the light 
es of hair are effected much 
quicker by the Egyptian Henna than 
the dark shades, therefore, it is ne- 
cessary to leave them on longer in 
order to obtain the desired shade. 

After the allotted time is up, place 
customer at shampoo board, remove 
paper, etc., from head, and remove 
paste from hair with hot water after 
which one lather of liquid shampoo is 
applied, then thoroughly rinse and dry 
hair. Remove stains from customer's 
neck and face. Replace dye cloth with 
chair cloth and the hair is ready to be 
dressed. 

RETOUCHING ROOTS WITH 
EGYPTIAN HENNA 

TT is necessary to retouch the roots 
of the hair with Egyptian Henna 
about every six or eight weeks just 
as in other dyes, however, it is not 
necessary to apply the paste to the en- 
tire head each time, but just retouch 
the roots or the part that has grown 
out from scalp since last application. 
Very often the roots can be re- 
touched several times before the long 
hair has faded sufficiently to necessi- 
tate applying the Egyptian Henna to 
the entire head again. When this is 
necessary to be done, apply as previ- 
ously described dyeing entire head. 
If the roots of the hair are to be 




A firm pressure of the brush is 
necessary in application. 

the head is wrapped in a towel, then 
shampoo the head next morning. 

It may be necessary to repeat this 
treatment a number of times before 
the greater portion of the dye has 
been removed before it is perfectly se- 
cure to apply new dye. 

There are a number of hair dye re- 
movers on the market, but the above 
application removes the dye and leaves 
the hair soft and natural and is really 
beneficial. After a number of appli- 
cations of the above, if there is still a 
suggestion of the old dye remaining, it 
is safe at this time to give several 
applications of bleach to the hair if 
necessary to remove the remaining hair 
dye, but it is never advisable to give 
more than two applications of the 
bleach, and never apply it directly to 
the dyed hair in quantities in order to 
remove the dye, unless the olive oil 
and kerosene has been previously used, 
as it has a tendency to split and break 
the hair. 

In cases where "Restorers" have 
been used on hair, and patron wishes 
to change to a hair dye, in order to re- 
mote restorer, the previously men- 
tioned method may be resorted to, 
that is, application of kerosene and 
olive oil, or a 3 per cent solution of 
Sodium Sulphate applied to hair with 
tooth brush. After 20 or 30 minutes 
rinse out of hair with cold water and 
dry and apply new dy( . 

There are many instances where 
Per mat it is developed on the head 
after hair dye has been applied. This 



Page two hundred seven 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



usually appears after liquid dyes are 
used. However, it has been known to 
develop after Henna dyes, but this is 
only so in rare cases. In Dermatitis 
the scalp is inflamed and covered with 
a rash. Very often the eyes are in- 
flamed and swollen. 

This .condition is caused from cer- 
tain chemicals in the dye and some 
people are much more affected by it 
than others. Steps must be taken im- 
mediately to relieve the customer of 
this condition as soon as it is observed. 
Assure customer that it can be re- 
lieved in a short time by bathing the 
scalp with warm Bbracic acid solu- 
tion, or warm milk, then apply a sooth- 
ing lotion such as sine ointment or 
Lozsar's Paste, to the affected parts. 
It may be necessary to repeat this a 
number of times, until all eruption has 
disappeared. Do not shampoo head 
while there is any appearance of Der- 
matitis remaining. It is advisable to 
use a thoroughly antiseptic soap for 
this purpose, such as physicians and 
surgeons' green soap. 

It is never advisable to apply hair 
dye to a head that has any eruption 
such as eczema, psoriasis or anything 
of that nature appearing on it, as it 
may aggravate the condition already 
existing there. 

There are many dyes on the market 
but the Egyptian and Compound 
Henna dyes are the best known pow- 
dered dyes, and are considered the 
least injurious of any artificial appli- 
cation that can be applied to the hair 
to change color. 

EGYPTIAN HENNA 

T7GYPTIAN Henna is composed of 
a powder, made from the ground 
bark and leaves of the Henna plant 
and is grown only in the Orient. 
Egyptian Henna when applied to the 
hair, always gives an auburn shade. 
It depends upon the original or basic 
shade of the hair just what shade of 
auburn is obtained. 

The length of time that the Egyp- 
tian Henna is permitted to remain on 
the hair is also determined by the ba- 
sic shade, for instance, if Egyptian 
Henna is applied to light shades of 
hair when an auburn or titian shade 
is desired, from 20 minutes to three- 
quarters of an hour is quite long 



retouched, prepare customer with rub- 
ber apron, etc., as previously de- 
scribed, also give shampoo, and partly 
dry hair with towel. If hair is long 
divide in sections and loop up. Pre- 
pare Egyptian Henna as before stat- 
ed. Be sure to keep it hot the entire 
time it is being applied. Great care 
must be taken zvhen applying paste to 
hair, not to overlap it o'nto the part of 
the hair zvhich has been previously 
dyed, otherwise, this would cause dark 
streaks to form where roots and long 
hair join. 

In order to prevent this, pieces of 
wax paper are placed between each 
strand of hair as paste is applied to 
roots. The Egyptian Henna is ap- 
plied to the roots of each section of 
hair in this manner, after which the 
head is wrapped in tissue paper, etc., 
as previously -described and paste is 
allowed to remain on the roots the al- 
lotted length of time, according to 
shade desired, or otherwise to match 
ends, then proceed by placing cus- 
tomer at shampoo board, remove head 
covering, also wax papers, which -were 
placed between strands. 

Then remove paste from hair with 
hot water, after which one lather of 
shampoo is applied and hair is thor- 
oughly rinsed and dried. Now remove 
stain from customer's face and neck, 
also dye cloth from shoulders, re- 



Pay e two hundred eight 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



place same with chair cloth. Hair can 
be waved and curled after this, if de- 
sired. 

COMPOUNDED HENNA 
Gray Hair 

PREPARE Customer for an appli- 
cation of compounded henna just 
as described in Egyptian Henna pack, 
but do not shampoo first. If hair is 
gray or if roots are to be touched up 
that are gray, proceed in the follow- 
ing manner: Divide hair in four 
sections as previously described, then 
take position at right of customer and 
apply peroxde and ammonia, propor- 
tions previously prescribed, with a 
tooth brush to all gray hair. This 
acts as a neutralizer and softens the 
gray hair. 

After the peroxide and ammonia 
has been applied to the gray hair, al- 
low it to remain on the hair about 15 
minutes. After this, shampoo the 
hair thoroughly, as all oil and dust 
must be removed from the hair be- 
fore the Compounded Henna is ap- 
plied. Remove excess moisture from 
hair with towel after shampoo but 
not at dryer, and proceed as previ- 
ously described, by parting hair, if 
long, in four sections and looping it 
up. You have selected the henna in 
the desired shade, and made the mix- 
ture which has been kept hot. If 
double boiler is used, full amount of 
henna necessary for the work should 
have been mixed at one time. If 
double boiler is not used, only a small 



enough (if shades are light brown), 
if bleached hair, 10 minutes is suffi- 
cient, while on dark shades of hair, 
which usually give a dark auburn or 
mahogany shade, it is necessary to al- 
low the Egyptian Henna paste to re- 
main on the hair not less than one hour 
or longer. The longer the Egyptian 
Henna is on the hair, the more decid- 
edly auburn the hair becomes. 

In some instances when the hair is 
very dark brown or black, and a de- 
cided auburn is desired, the Egyptian 
Henna paste is applied at night, the 
head wrapped up well and washed 
out the next morning. Egyptian 
Henna is never successfully used on 
grey or white hair, as it gives an un- 
natural shade of red. 

In preparing Egyptian Henna, mix: 
4 Tablespoonfuls of Egyptian 

henna powder 
2 Tablespoons of peroxide 
2 Tablespoons of liquid blueing 
Enough hot water to make 
creamy paste. 
Do not have the paste too thin, as 
it will run from the roots and not too 
thick or it will no> penetrate through 
the hair. 

COMPOUNDED HENNA 

'"THERE are many brands of the 
Compounded Henna or metallic 
dyes on the market. They are pro- 
duced under different trade names, but 
they are practically all compounded in 
the same manner and contain the same 
chemical mixtures. 

They have as their base, the nat- 
ural henna powder, to which chemicals 
such as pyrogalic acid, sulphate of cop- 
per, sulphate of nickel, etc., have been 
added, in order to procure the shades 
necessary to dye the hair in the dif- 
ferent shades in which nature has pro- 
duced them. 

The compounded hennas are consid- 
ered very successful on all shades of 
mixed grey or white hair, although 
the shades that are referred to as drab 
are very difficult to obtain with com- 
pounded henna. 

It is always advisable to use a light- 
er shade of compounded henna than 
the original shade of hair and in some 
instances, it is best to use several 
shades lighter, as the hair gradually 
grows darker by repeated application 
to the hair in retouching. 



Page two hundred nine 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Never use the compounded hennas 
just as you find them upon opening the 
container. The manufacturers place 
the different ingredients in the can in 
layers, therefore, it is necessary to re- 
move same from can, place in a dry 
dish and crush any particles that are 
lumpy and thoroughly mix all ingredi- 
ents together before using it. It can 
then be replaced in can. 

When opening a can of compounded 
henna, you will find a tiny transpar- 
ent envelope directly under the lid. 
This envelope contains a fine white 
powder. This is the developer. The 
developer is not used until compound- 
ed henna is removed from hair, so the 
tiny package is put away in a secure 
place for later use. 

Never allow Henna of any kind, 
either Egyptian or Compounded to 
come directly in contact with the fire. 
It is always best to mix same in a 
double boiler or place receptacle with 
paste in it over a pan of hot water. 
This can then be placed on heater in 
order to keep the paste continually 
hot. 

If Egyptian or Compounded Henna 
pastes are applied to hair just warm or 
partly cold, the hair will lack the lus- 
ter and gloss when it is removed, that 
it would have if it had been applied 
hot. It is alsolutely necessary, there- 
fore, to keep the paste as hot as cus- 
tomer can stand it on her head, all 
during the process of applying it. 

Never recommend Black in the com- 
pounded henna, unless you are sure 
your customer really wants her hair to 
be as black as this shade produces. 
Very few people really have black 
hair and a dark brown shade in the 
compounded henna produces a shade 
quite as dark as most people desire. In 
some cases the black henna is used, 
but in very few instances. 

Before using compounded henna on 
grey or mixed grey hair, it is neces- 
sary to apply peroxide and ammonia 
in these proportions : 

4 Tablespoonfuls peroxide 
1 Teaspoon of ammonia. 

The object in doing this is to soften 
the grey hair, and make it more pli- 
able, as the grey hair owing to the lack 
of pigmentation is filled with air ves- 
icles. This makes it difficult for 
grey hair to absorb the dye, but by 
applying the peroxide and ammonia in 



portion of the powder is mixed. All 
of the ingredients are in the com- 
pounded henna, so it is only necessary 
to add hot water. Small portions 
only are mixed at a time in order to 
keep it hot. This amount usually suf- 
fices for one section, and another por- 
tion is mixed and applied in the same 
manner as described for application of 
Egyptian Henna until entire head has 
been gone over, and portons of hair 
to be dyed have been thoroughly sat- 
urated with the paste. 

After compounded henna has been 
applied in this manner, cover the 
head as previously described with pa- 
per, etc., in order to retain as much 
heat as possible, and allow paste to re- 
main on the head the required length 
of time, according to shade applied. 

If light shades are used in com- 
pounded henna such as light brown, 
light chestnut, or dark chestnut, one 
hour is all that is necessary to leave 
paste on the hair, however, if medium 
shade such as medium brown is used, 
it is necessary to leave paste on hair 
out hour also, but if the hair is very 
gray an added 15 minutes is advisable, 
making it one hour and fifteen min- 
utes in all. 

If dark brown is desired, it is ne- 
cessary to leave paste uii hair one and 
one-half hours ; black, two hours. 
However, black is rarely ever used. 

After compounded henna paste has 
been on hair, the required length of 
time place customer at shampoo board 



Page two hundred ten 



THE 



A R B E R S ' M A N U A E 



remove head covering- and rinse paste 
from hair with hot water. After 
paste has been removed, the developer 
is applied (the developer is the small 
transparent package that was found 
under the lid of can when first 
opened). 

This contains a white powder. 
Place this powder in a clean recep- 
tacle, a small pitcher is preferable, 
and add to it one cup full of hot 
water, mix well and pour this over 
the entire head. It is necessary to 
have basin in shampoo bowl, under 
shampoo board, to catch this rinse as 
it is applied to head. It is then trans- 
ferred from basin to pitcher and this 
process is repeated until it has been 
applied to the head at least four or 
five times. This developer must be 
kept hot while it is applied and it is 
often necessary to reheat it during the 
process. After the developer has been 
applied in this manner, wait five min- 
utes, then apply directly to hair with- 
out removing developer, one lather 
of shampoo liquid, rub, rinse well and 
dry hair at dryer. 

In using the compounded henna it 
is necessary to retouch the roots of 
the hair in about six or eight weeks 
just as described in the Egyptian 
Henna. The process for doing this 
with the compounded henna is also 
very much the same. 

In order to retouch the roots of the 
lair with compounded henna, select 

Page two hundred eleven 



the proportions previously prescribed, 
to (he grey hair, the vesicles are filled 
and in this way the five is absorbed 
more readily. 



Dye stains on face and neck can be 
removed either with cold cream or 
with peroxide and ammonia, in pro- 
portions previously prescribed. This 
is applied to the stained surface with 
a soft cloth. Henna stains are very 
easily removed but it is much more 
difficult to remove liquid dye stains, 
therefore, great care must be taken to 
avoid staining face or neck when ap- 
plying same. Very often a light ap- 
plication of cold cleam is applied to 
face and neck before dye is applied to 
hair. This is removed after the hair 
has been rived. This prevents staining 
the skin. However, great care must 
be taken when applying the cold cream 
to face not to get it into the edge of 
the hair, as it would prevent the hair 
from absorbing the dye. 

Six or eight weeks is the usual 
length of time that elapses, before the 
roots of the hairs are obliged to be 
retouched in Henna dyes, however, 
there are textures of hair that retain 
the dye for a much longer period of 




Compounded Henna. 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



time, therefore, the person having the 
dye is the best judge of how often it 
is obliged to be renewed. 

•Should the Egyptian Henna or Com- 
pounded Henna result in too dark a 
shade, this can be remedied by apply- 
ing the following mixture to the dark 
spots or all over the head if necessary. 
Mix a paste of Egyptian Henna Pow- 
der and peroxide, use a good grade of 
commercial peroxide, make a creamy 
paste. Do not use water. Apply this 
paste cold to the parts that are too 
dark. Allow this to remain on the hair 
from 20 to 30 minutes, then remove 
with hot water. If not sufficiently 
light, repeat 24 hours after. 

If not familiar with a dye that is to 
be applied, always read directions. All 
Henna dyes require three days to fully 
develope the shade. It is not always 
necessary to use the contents of an en- 
tire box of compounded henna. Very 
often when the roots of the hair are to 
be retouched, a very small amount will 
suffice, however, always remove com- 
pounded henna from can and mix as 
previously described, replace in can 
and use only the amount necessary to 
do the work, replacing the balance in 
can and put aside for future use. 



the shade previously used on hair, 
prepare customer in same manner as. 
described for dye, take position at 
right of customer and apply neutral- 
izer to roots of hair. After 15 min- 
utes, shampoo head and apply com- 
pounded henna to roots only as de- 
scribed in touching up roots of hair 
with Egyptian Henna. 

Great care must be taken in the ap- 
plication of the paste to the roots not 
to allow it to overlap onto the hair 
that has been previously dyed, as it 
will cause a dark streak to form where 
roots and ends join. Be sure to place 
wax papers between each strand im- 
mediately after applying paste, to 
further prevent paste from coming 
in contact with previously dyed hair. 

After the Compounded Henna has 
been applied to roots in this manner 
paper or cloth is applied to head to 
retain heat, as previously described. 
Compounded Henna Paste is allowed 
to remain on roots according to shade 
just as previously explained in apply- 
ing to long hair, then proceed further 
in the following manner : place cus- 
tomer at shampoo board, remove head 
covering, also wax paper from be- 
tween strands of hair. Rinse paste 
from roots with hot water, apply de- 
veloper as previously described and 
after five minutes apply liquid sham- 
poo. Give thorough rubbing, rinse 
well and dry. After this remove stains 
from customer's neck and face, etc., 
and hair can be curled and dressed. 



Page hvo hundred twelve 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



LIQUID DYE 

TN preparing customer for liquid dye 
A arrange as directed in Henna dye. 
Start application by dividing hair in 
medium thin strands from crown to 
forehead, parallel with center part, 
dip tooth brush in dye, saturating 
same well with liquid, shake gently 
over saucer and press brush along 
edge to remove superfluous dye from 
brush, then convey same to part in 
hair, applying dye by firm pressure 
downward towards ends of hair with 
brush. Never give rotary movement 
as it tangles hair and does not dis- 
tribute dye evenly. 

After dye has been applied to strand 
in this manner, on outer side, turn 
strand over so under side is exposed, 
apply the dye to this portion in the 
same manner. One strand after an- 
other can be treated in this way. When 
dye has been applied to one section, 
comb through hair thoroughly, from 
scalp toward ends many times, until 
dye is well distributed and all hair is 
thoroughly moistened, otherwise the 
hair is liable to be streaked. 

If hair is very long and needs to 
be dyed the full length, apply the dye 
sparingly to ends as directed, with 
brush. After this, loop or pin up 
section, and proceed to the next one. 

It is very important to remember, 
that liquid dyes are not to be applied 
to head too generously, always draw 
brush along edge of receptable, to re- 
move some of the dye before apply- 
ing to hair, as a very small amount 



LIQUID DYES 

""THERE are many liquid dyes on the 
market, in fact, too many to enu- 
merate all of them. Some are aniline 
dyes, others are mineral dyes, also 
hair restorers. Restorers do not im- 
mediately change the color of the hair, 
but by repeated applications the grey 
hair is dyed to the natural shade. The 
liquid hair dyes are always applied 
with a clean tooth brush. 

In most instances, it is necessary to 
shampoo and dry the hair before the 
dye can be applied, as the hair must be 
free from oil and dirt. However, there 
are hair dyes on the market that are 
applied to the soiled hair, but only a 
few are applied in this way. 

In using liquid dye only, pour a 
small amount of dye in a clean recep- 
tacle at a time, as it very soon evapor- 
ates, and when exposed to the light for 
any length of time, deteriorates. It is 
very important that you read the in- 
structions given with each package of 
dye, as there are many methods that 
are similar but each have some varia- 
tions in preparation for application. 

Some liquid dyes come in two bot- 
tles, one marked "A" and the other 




Liquid Dye in sets. 



Page two hundred thirteen 



THE BARBERS' MANU A I . 



"B", or 1 and 2. In some cases the 
bottle marked A or No. 1 is applied to 
vine hair first, the hair is dried, after 
»vhich the bottle marked B or No. 2 is 
applied in the same manner and the 
hair is dried after the last application 
also. However, there are also liquid 
dyes that come in a container holding 
a number of small bottles. Half of 
these are marked "A" and half are 
marked "B." The advantage in divid- 
ing it into small bottles is this, very 
o ten it is only necessary to use a very 
•in ill amount of dye, as for instance, 
ze'ien retouching the roots of the hair, 
or when only slightly grey about the 
luce, therefore, only the amount neces- 
sary to do the work is opened. The 
balance of the dye is left intact to be 
used at some future time. In this way, 
no dye is wasted, as would be if in a 
large bottle, for dyes deteriorate if 
opened or exposed to the light or air. 

In using the dye just mentioned, 
while the bottles are also marked "A" 
and "B", there is only one application 
necessary to the hair in order to dye 

it, as the contents of one "A" bottle 
and one "B" bottle arc placed in a 



of dye applied to hair with a firm 
pressure of the brush, is much more 
effective than if a greater amount 
were used and it would be allowed to 
drip to ends. If this is permitted, 
the ends become dry and brittle and 
soon break off and shows the detri- 
mental effects of applying too much 
dye. 

In applying the dye to the hair, it 
is advisable to apply same to the 
front sections of the hair first, then 
proceed to the back sections, until en- 
tire head has been treated in this man- 
ner, then dry at dryer. Advise cus- 
tomer to return in 24 hours and have 
hair set. 

If the liquid dye is used, which 
comes in small bottles before men- 
tioned, the procedure is just a little 
different. Select the shade desire, 
prepare customer as before men- 
tioned. Do not shampoo at this time 
but prepare neutralizer composed of 
4 tablespoonfuls peroxide, 1 tea- 
spoonful ammonia. Place this in 
small receptacle and apply same to all 
grey hair with tooth brush, permit 
this to remain on the hair for 15 min- 
utes. If not dry, dry with dryer, 
then proceed in the following manner : 
loop up sections of hair, mix one "A" 
bottle and one "B" bottle in saucer, 
as previously described. Apply to 
hair as just explained, then allow dye 
to remain on hair from 20 minutes to 
half an hour, after which customer is 
placed at shampoo board and hair is 
shampooed. It is best to apply liquid 



Page tzvo hundred fourteen 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



shampoo directly to hair before water 
is applied, the chemical action of the 
soap directly on the dye has a ten- 
dency to distribute the dye more even- 
ly and will improve the appearance 
of the hair. After shampoo liquid 
has been thoroughly rubbed into hair, 
rinse well with hot water and dry. 
Remove stains from face and neck. 
The hair can be curled immediately 
after this dye has been applied. 

Some liquid dyes of ancient vin- 
tage are still on the market, and are 
obliged to be "set" 24 hours after they 
have been applied. The object in set- 
ting such dyes is to remove the su- 
perfluous dye from the hair which if 
left in the hair soon breaks and splits 
it. It is also to prevent the dye from 
rubbing off on anything it comes in 
contact with. It is never necessary 
to set a dye that is shampooed the 
same day that it is applied. 

In the more recent liquid dyes that 
are referred to as peroxide dyes, this 
is not necessary. 

When setting a dye, prepare cus- 
tomer as for a shampoo. Place her 
at shampoo board, rinse hair well with 
hot water until the water runs away 
clear, then apply a salt rinse composed 
of 1 tablespoonful of salt to 1 quart 
of hot water. Pour this over the head 
four or five times, then rinse same 
out with hot water. If hair seems at 
all stiff or sticky, give citric rinse as 
described in shampoo lesson. 



receptacle and mixed together and ap- 
plied to the hair. This is a much 
quicker way to do the work, as it saves 
time where only one application is nec- 
essary. 

There is also a dye that is used as 
the one just described, but there is a 
substitute for the contents of the "B" 
bottle which comes in a solidified form 
being made into tablets instead of the 
liquid. In using this type of dye, each 
tablet contains the same ingredients as 
bottle marked "B" in the liquid form. 
The tablet is allowed to dissolve in the 
receptacle in which the bottle of liquid 
marked "A" has been placed. 

There are also dyes on the market 
that come in only one bottle and neces- 
sitate only one application, while others 
come in two bottles and the different 
shades desired are obtained by adding 
different proportions of water. The di- 
rections for all of these are found in 
the box containing the dye. 

If, after dyeing a head of hair with 
liquid dye, the shade is found to be 
slightly darker than desired, it can be 
removed by applying peroxide, but do 
not put ammonia in the peroxide. Al- 



Pagc tivo hundred fifteen 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



low this to dry naturally, do not use 
hair dryer. If it is still too dark after 
first application, repeat in 24 hours. 

Frequent hot oil treatments at 
shampooing time are recommended for 
dyed hair, as it prevents the hair from 
becoming harsh and preserves the lus- 
ter. Hair can be waved or curled af- 
ter it has been dyed, if a dye has been 
applied that requires the hair to be 
shampooed the same day, it is applied, 
otherwise it is necessary to wait 24 
hours, then set the dye as described 
elsewhere in this article, before it is 
safe to use hot irons on the hair. 

HAIR DYE 

20 Grs. nitrate of silver 
2 Grs. sulphite of copper 
Q. S. ammonia 
Q. S. distilled water. 

Dissolve the salts in V2 oz. water 
and add ammonia until the precipi- 
tate which is formed is redissolved. 
Then make up to 1 oz. with water. 
Apply to the hair with old tooth or 
nail brush. This solution slowly gives 
a brown shade. For darker shades ap- 
ply a second solution composed of — 

2 Drs. yellow sulphide ammonia 

1 Dr. solution of ammonia 
1 Oz. distilled water. 



DYEING SWITCHES OR HAIR PIECES 

A LL hair that has not the natural 
"^ oils of the scalp to preserve the 
color, gradually fade, therefore, it is 
often necessary to dip or dye false 
pieces and switches after they have 
been worn for a while. 

For dark shades of brown or black, 
use one cup of black tea, a small piece 
of copperas, about size of large navy 
bean, cover this with three or four 
cups of hot water, place on stove and 
let it come to a boil, strain, then place 
switch, etc., that has been previously 
washed but is still damp, in this hot 
liquid. Allow it to remain until de- 
sired color is obtained, then remove 
same from dye, hang up by loop to 
dry. Allow every part of hair to 
hang free so air can reach it from 
every side. 

After it has been dried in this way, 
rinse out well with hot water and dry. 

If drab shades are desired in dip- 
ping switches, add a small amount of 
Pyrogallic acid to the tea and cop- 
peras liquid. If light drab is desired, 
use Pyrogallic acid alone. 

Often in dark shades it is neces- 
sary to dry the hair and re-dip sev- 
eral times. All hair must be cleansed 
before it is dipped. Extra hair pieces, 
especially if ventilated, should not be 
washed in water, but gasoline, or a 
cleaning fluid used for that purpose. 
Great care must be exercised in doing 
this as the net in which the hair is 
woven is liable to be torn, if not care- 
fully handled. 



Page two hundred sixteen 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



HAIR BLEACHING 

pREPARE customer for bleach by 
giving shampoo, etc., as for hair 
dye. Divide hair in small strands 
from crown to forehead across the 
sections of hair. Apply bleach to hair 
with tooth brush, using a firm pres- 
sure during the application. When 
removing toothbrush from recep- 
tacle, shake bleach from brush and 
press brush against edge of recep- 
tacle to avoid having too much per- 
oxide on brush. 

If the hair is bleached for the first 
time, apply the bleach from roots to 
ends of hair. Great care must be 
taken not to have ends too wet, as it 
would make them lighter. Apply the 
bleach in this manner to entire head, 
strand by strand. As one section is 
finished, loop or pin it up out of the 
way. After this has been done, loosen 
hair and let it hang free, place cus- 
tomer at dryer and dry the hair thor- 
oughly. Hair must be dried thor- 
oughly after each application of 
bleach before the next one is applied. 

Now you have finished the first ap- 
plication of bleach. If the hair is the 
desired shade, it can be waved and 
dressed, if it is not as light as cus- 
tomer desired it to be, after drying 
hair, remove tangles, divide in four 
sections as previously stated, and re- 
peat the application as described. This 



BLEACHING 

TF a lighter shade of hair is desired 
the hair must be bleached instead of 
dyed. It depends on the original or 
basic shade of hair, how many appli- 
cations of bleach is necessary to pro- 
duce a blond shade of hair. Peroxide 
and ammonia are always used for the 
purpose of bleaching the hair. It is 
by repeated applications of bleach that 
a dark head of hair is gradually turned 
to blond. When bleach is applied to 
dark shades of hair, it becomes auburn 
first, but by conitnued applications of 
bleach it gradually becomes a blond 
or golden shade. 

If the natural shade of hair is light 
brown or chestnut, it requires only one 
or two applications of bleach to make 
a decided difference in the shade. One 
of the most important points to re- 
member in bleaching the hair is that 
once the desired shade has been ob- 
tained never apply the bleach to that 
part of the hair again, as bleach never 
wears off. It is not like dye. Once 
the shade has been obtained, it is only 




IfPIDE OF HYDROIB 






tatox Chemical a.': 

,«»! VOSK CHICS" 



Peroxide of Hydrogen. 



Page two hundred seventeen 



THE BARPERS" MANUAL 



necessary to retouch the roots of the 
hair, as they grow out. 

Bleaching is not injurious to the 
hair, if it is not repeatedly applied to 
the entire head when it is only neces- 
sary to retouch the roots. Do not at 
any time use too much ammonia in 
connection with the peroxide, as it is 
very injurious to the hair when used to 
excess. However, a small amount is 
always necessary in bleaching as it in- 
tensifies the action of the peroxide on 
the hair. The hair is always a little 
lighter the following day after bleach- 
ing. 

In bleaching dark shades of hair to 
a blond shade, it is necessary to apply 
the peroxide and ammonia as often 
as four or five times in order to get 
the hair to a blond shade. 

When shampooing a head of hair 
that has been bleached, always use a 
citric rinse after shampoo, as explained 
in the lesson on rinses, otherwise the 
hair will be sticky. 

The formula for the bleach is as fol- 
lows : 

4 Tablespoonfuls of peroxide 
1 Teaspoonful of ammonia. 

WHITE HENNA 

This consists of either Talcum 
powder or some similar powder and 
is used as a base for liquid bleach 
in touching up the roots of hair that 
has been previously bleached. It 
prevents bleach from running down 
into the ends of the hair. It can be 
prepared by placing 1 teaspoonful 
of White Henna in a china recep- 
tacle and adding to it enough 14 or 
17 volume Peroxide of Hydrogen 
and a few drops of ammonia to 
make a creamy paste. This is ap- 
plied to the roots of the hair with a 
tooth brush. It is permitted to re- 
main on the hair from 15 to 30 min- 
utes according to shade desired. It 
is then rinsed out with warm water. 
Citric rinse is applied and if hair is 
not desired shade, repeat. 



is done as many times as necessary 
until desired shade is obtained. 

When necessary to retouch as the 
hair grows out, give customer sham- 
poo, after shampoo apply a citric 
rinse to the hair, dry hair thoroughly 
and proceed in the following manner: 
Remove tangles from hair and divide 
in four sections and loop up if hair 
is long. Divide hair in strands. Pre- 
pare bleach as previously described, 
then proceed by applying same with 
toothbrush to the dark part of the 
hair or roots only, beginning at the 
scalp and moving brush downward. 
Do not overlap the bleach onto the 
part previously done. Be very care- 
ful not to have the tooth brush too 
wet when applying the bleach as it is 
liable to run down into the ends or the 
part of the hair that was previously 
bleached, and this must be avoided. 

Continue in this manner until the 
bleach has been applied to the entire 
head at the roots only. After this 
place customer at dryer. After the 
hair has been thoroughly dried, re- 
peat the application as described as 
many times as necessary in order to 
have roots the exact color of the ends 
or that part of the hair which has 
been previously bleached. Be sure to 
dry thoroughly after each application 
before next one is repeated. After the 
desired shade has been obtained, hair 
can be waved. 



Page two hundred eighteen 



ETHICS AND SALESMANSHIP 



/ T V HE barber, no matter how 
good a mechanic he may have 
become, is not a finished trades- 
man of the high salaried calibre 
until he has learned and put into 
efTect the ethics of good barber- 
ing and salesmanship. 

There is a vast difference be- 
tween the grafter, so often re- 
ferred to in connection with bar- 
bering, and the learned salesman. 
Therefore, the scrutinizing em- 
ployer of today has learned to 
distinguish and select his men ac- 
cordingly. 

Grafters employ methods of 
obtaining big checks, that would 
not be tolerated in the well con- 
ducted shop, whereas the sales- 
man puts into effect a business- 
like principle. The grafter forces 
upon his customer his services 
in a manner intended to deceive 
him. He may give all the serv- 
ice at his command to a sleeping 
customer, and charge him for it, 
or he may try to make it appear 
that he is giving some special 
service, intimating that he is 
showing a favor to the patron, 
but always charges for it. 

He may use any number of 
tricks to increase the receipts, 
but, of course, he cannot con- 
tinue in the same shop or on the 
same patron indefinitely, for that 
reason the grafter is generally a 
rover, where the real salesman 
builds up a trade for his services, 



and has a following that becomes 
his stock in trade. 

To become a salesman, you 
should study your customer as he 
comes to your chair. There are 
many points about people that 
reveal their character, and you 
will soon learn how to discover 
them. It is not good barbering 
or salesmanship to immediately 
launch into the topics of the day 
with your customer, unless he 
shows a desire for conversation, 
and then always let him lead. Be 
a good listener rather than a 
good talker. 

If he shows an inclination to 
converse, he gives you an oppor- 
tunity to lead up to the subjects 
you wish to approach, but it 
should be done very tactfully. 
If, for example, your customer, 
upon taking the chair, leans back 
for a shave, do not hesitate or 
argue the point of a haircut, but 
go directly about the work he at 
the time desires. He may have 
in mind finding out whether you 
are a good shaver before he risks 
a haircut. 

It has become customary in all 
shops to use special lotions at a 
special price, but it is not sales- 
manship to apply and charge 
without instruction or permission 
from the patron. If you sense 
as the customer takes the chair, 
that he may be open for sugges- 
tions, you may call to his atten- 



Page tzvo hundred nineteen 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



tion, during the period that you 
are working upon him, other 
things you have for sale such as 
the massage, the haircut or the 
different treatments, but, if you 
sense by his firm or determined 
appearance, that he is a man who 
knows what he wants and will 
ask for it, you should try to lead 
up to the subject in some other 
manner. 

For example, if your customer 
seems to be hard to please, you 
must try to please him by giving 
him special attention, and gain 
his goodwill before approaching 
the subject of further service. If 
he complains, and you show a 
desire to please, you may gain 
his continued patronage and be 
able to sell him a bigger bill later. 

In any event, the discriminat- 
ing man is one whose acquaint- 
ance should be cultivited, for he 
is generally the money man, able 
and willing to pay for more and 
better service. 

If you sense, as your customer 
approaches your chair, that he is 
going to be easy and will take 
most anything you offer, one 
that would be meat for the graft- 
er, be cautious also with this in- 
dividual lest you sell him more 
than he can afford, thereby caus- 
ing him to seek a cheaper place 
or one without the strong arm 
method. 

In all events, you must be first 
sold on the article yourself before 
you can successfully offer it to 



others. If you offer a tonic, 
know what it contains and the 
good it will do, and convey that 
knowledge to your customer. If 
you offer a treatment, know the 
benefits of that treatment and in 
giving it, give the benefits. If 
you are selling your services in- 
stead of a piece of goods, make 
your services of quality; make 
them worth all you are asking 
that you may honestly approach 
the customer again for re-sale or 
have the benefits of his recom- 
mendation to someone else. 

In addition to your services, 
which includes all of the work be- 
ing done, there are many articles 
you can handle profitably and to 
better advantage than anywhere 
else. Suppose you have used a 
tonic that is pleasing, you have 
an opportunity to sell a bottle and 
should have it close at hand to 
show, and your check tab handy, 
that you may add to the other 
work you have done, enabling 
the customer to pay the cashier 
the entire check at once. 

If you fail to interest your cus- 
tomer in a purchase at the first 
attempt, do not be discouraged. 
The man who can present an ar- 
ticle again and again, each time 
with a smile, will win the ad- 
miration of many. Yet, the sales- 
man must not insist. Keeping 
the customer's mind on what the 
goods will do, is important, 
rather than dwelling on the ar- 
ticle itself and the price. 



Page tzvo hundred twenty 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



The barber is generally deal- 
ing with a customer who is lo- 
cated in the immediate neighbor- 
hood, and to know and be able to 
converse with the customer on 
his own goods, is of great value. 
Your customer may be a haber- 
dasher and may be patronizing 
the shop or a particular barber 
for the sake of return patron- 
age or reciprocity. For this 
reason, it is important that the 
barber know as much about his 
customer as possible, and most 
important of all, learn the cus- 
tomer's name, if possible, the first 
visit without asking him direct. 
This may be obtained frequently 
from the porter or the manager. 
To be able to speak a customer's 
name, will please the hard-boiled 
customer more than any other 
one thing the barber can do, and 
it often clinches the sale to be 
able to speak the customer's 
name during the conversation. 

It is barber shop ethics, in all 
well regulated shops, for all bar- 
bers to rise and stand by their 
chairs as the customer enters, 
showing thereby that you are 
willing to serve him and that he 
may take his choice of the sev- 
eral workmen. Do not stare the 
customer out of countenance in 
trying to induce him to take your 
chair. Simply speak his name 
pleasantly, if you know him, and 
let him decide. Remember at all 
times, that you are not doing the 
customer a favor by waiting 



upon him. or rendering him a 
service. He is paying a good 
price for what he receives and is 
entitled to all the service he de- 
mands. 

If the "hard-to-please" cus- 
tomer takes your chair, do your 
best to be affable. If he asks 
for a shave, do not suggest im- 
mediately a haircut, even though 
he may need it. That sugges- 
tion may come after the first 
services have been rendered. Al- 
ways assure your customer, as 
he makes a complaint, that you 
will remedy it and do not stop 
there, do it. Do not argue and 
do not converse with the other 
barbers or customers while wait- 
ing upon the "discriminating" 
one, and, very important, don't 
assume a lofty air. The barber 
who wants it to be known that 
he knows his business and is 
ready to tell his customer "where 
he gets off at" will soon find him- 
self looking for another job or 
looking for patrons, if he con- 
ducts his own shop. Don't for- 
get the customer is the man who 
is really paying your salary or 
rent. 

Another form of salesmanship 
is that of silent action. As the 
"hard-to-please" customer takes 
your chair, you need not attempt 
to converse, but immediately 
start your sale by your action. 
The promptness with which you 
start the task, the courtesy in 
every movement, the conspicu- 



Page tzvo hundred twenty -one 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



ousness by which you sterilize 
your instruments, the absolute 
cleanliness of the shop linen and 
one's personal appearance, will 
sell more service than any 
amount of argument. Make a 
display of washing your hands, 
and of sterilizing every instru- 
ment, and the customer will be 
impressed. 

The ethics of every well regu- 
lated barber shop, prohibits 
smoking by the workmen in the 
shop, but in the event that you 
have stolen a whiff from your 
cigarette during your working 
hours, be sure no trace or smell 
is left on your fingers to annoy 
your customer. 

The psychology of selling is 
nothing more than a clear un- 
derstanding of the customer's 
desires. The object of any sales- 
man, which in this instance, is a 
barber, is to arouse the custom- 
er's interest to the extent that he 
will purchase. The means of sell- 
ing a haircut may be the appear- 
ance of the one you have just 
completed, or it may be the means 
of your failure to sell your next 
haircut, if the one you have just 
turned out is displeasing to the 
one who is waiting. 

You may sometimes improve 
your sales by appealing to the 
senses. In addition to a pleas- 
ing fragrance, you may speak to 
the traveling salesman of the 
loved ones at home, who would be 
pleased with a bottle of perfume. 



A neat manicure set for the sten- 
ographer, even a safety razor for 
home-service, is right in line with 
the barber salesman. Those who 
are broad enough to compre- 
hend that the self shaver may be 
made the means of profit to the 
barber, will sell the instrument or 
the blades, and thereby get the 
more profitable part of the busi- 
ness, the haircut and its addition. 

There is an attractive little in- 
dividual electric sterilizer now 
on the market, that the advanced 
barber may display on his work- 
stand in appealing to the custom- 
er's sense of cleanliness. 

A little fountain of boiling, 
bubbling, steaming water, in con- 
stant play, into which every in- 
strument is dipped before being 
put into use, will attract more 
customers than most any other 
one appeal you can make. 

The old order of things in bar- 
berism is passing and the manner 
of loudly calling "next" to the 
waiting patron, is being discard- 
ed. Each shop may have its 
method of keeping track of the 
one who is next, but whatever 
may be the method, it is one that 
will signal or make a personal 
quiet announcement rather than 
the noisy "next," we have for- 
mely heard. 

The well regulated shop of to- 
day, takes on the appearance of 
a parlor with well-kept reception 
room rather than the loafing 
place with the noisy, boisterous 



Page tzvo hundred twenty-two 






THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



individual, and the shop that is 
properly cared for, will receive 
the patronage of the mother and 
the little child, whose influence 
goes a long way toward sending 
dad to the shop she patronizes. 

The barber's place, while not 
engaged at the chair, is on the 
seat provided for him at his 
workstand, and he should not al- 
low himself to become so engaged 
in reading or in preparing his 
tools, that he fails to watch the 
door and observe the approach of 
each customer. He should not 
occupy the waiting chairs in- 
tended for patrons. 



Barbers sometimes violate the 
ethics of good barbering by 
rather turning their back on the 
discriminating customer as he 
enters the shop, even though he 
stands up at his chair to meet 
the demands of the proprietor. 
The barber who tries in this man- 
ner to pick out the good jobs or 
the easy work, will soon find him- 
self out of work or working for 
a salary only, without the com- 
mission and the tips that are the 
real velvet of the job, and he has 
earned the enmity of the honest 
barber who is taking them as 
thev come. 



Page two hundred twenty-three 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



TO PER CENT 


$ | .05| .10| .16| .20| .26| .30| .36| .40| .46 1 .60| .66 1 .60| .66[ .70| .76| .80| .86| .90| .95| 1.00 


$26|17.63|17.57|17.60| 17.64 117.67|17.71|17.74| 17.78|17.81|17.86il7.88| 17.92|17.95|17.99|18.02| 18.06|18.09|18.13|18.16|18.20 


$26|18.23|18.27|18.30| 18.34|18.37il8.41|18.44| 18.48|18.61|18.65[18.68| 18.62|18.66|18.69|18.72| 18.76|18.79|18.83|18.86|18.90 


$27|18.93|18.97!19.00|19.04|19.07|19.11|19.14|19.18|19.21!19.26|19.28|19.32|19.35!19.39|19.42|19.46|19.49|19.63|19.66|19.60 


$28|19.63|19.67|19.70| 19.74|19.77|19.81|19.84| 19.88 119.91 ] 19.96 1 19.98 1 20.02 20.05 [20.09 [20.12 1 20.16|20.19|20.23|20.26|20.30 


$29 i20.33 120.37 120.40 1 20.44 [20.47 120.61 |20.54| 20.68 120.61 120.66 120.68 1 20.72 20.75|20.79|20.82 1 20.86 120.89|20.93 J20.96j21.00 


$30i21.03|21.07 [21.101 21.14|21.17121.21|21.24|21.28|21.31|21.36|21.38|21.42!21.46|21.49121.62|21.66|21.69|21.63|21.66|21.70 


$31|21.73[21.77j21.80| 21.84|21. 87|21.91|21.94|21.98[22.01|22.05|22.08|22.12i22.15[22.19|22.22|22.26|22.29|22.33j22. 36|22.40 


$32 122.43 [22.47 122.60 1 22.64 [22.67 22.61|22.64| 22.68 122.71 [22.76 [22.78 1 22.82 [22.85 [22. 89|22.92| 22.96 [22.99 123.03 23.06|23. 10 


$33|23.13|23.17|23.20|23.24!23.27|23.31|23.34|23.38|23.41[23.46[23.48|23.52[23.55|23.59i23.62|23.66[23.69[23.73[23.76|23.80 


$34 123.83 123.87 123.90| 23.94 123.97 [24.01 124.04| 24.08 [24.11 124.16 [24.18 1 24.22 [24.25 [24.29[24.32| 24.36 [24.39 [24.43 124.46|24.60 


$36124.53124.67124.601 24.64|24.67 124.71 124.74| 24.78[24.81[24.85|24.88|24.92|24.96[24.99[25.02|25.06 l 25.09 l 25.13!26.16;26.20 


$3626.23 [26.27 125.30| 26.34|25.37 |26.41|25.44|26.48126.61|25.66i25.58|25.62[25.65125.69!25.72|26.76[25.79!25.83[25.86|25.S0 


$37i26.93i25.97126.00|26.04|26.07|26.11|26.14|26.18i26.21|26.25|26.28|26.32126.35|26.39i26.42|26.46[26.49[26.63|26.66!26.60 


$38 [26.63 [26.67 126.70 1 26.74 [26.77 [26.81 126.84 1 26.88 126.91 126.95 [26.98 1 27.02 [27.05 127.09 [27.12 1 27.16 127.19|27.23|27.26 127.30 


$39 [27.33 127.37 [27.40 1 27.44 [27.47 [27.61 127.54| 27.68 127.61|27.65 [27.68 1 27.72 [27.75 [27.79 [27.82 1 27.86 [27.89 127.93 127.96 128.00 


$40i28.03i28.07|28.10|28.14!28.17|28.21|28.24|28.28|28.31|28.35[28.38| 28.42 [28.45 [28.49 28.62 [ 28.66 [28.69 128.63 [28.66 [28.70 


$41 [28.73 28.77 j28.80 1 2B.84(28.87 [28.91 [28.941 28.98 129.01 I29.06j29.08 1 29.12|29.15[29.19;29.22| 29.26|29.29[29.33|29.36j29.40 


$42 129.43 129.47 129.50 1 29.64 129.67 [29.61 129.64 1 29.68 129.71 [29.76 129.78 1 29.82 [29.86 [29.89 [29.92 1 29.96 [29.99 130.03 130.06 [30.10 


$43[30.13[30.17|30.20| 30.24130.27 (30.31 130.34| 30.38 130.41|30.45 [30.48 1 30.52!30.55[30.59[30.62[ 30.66[30.69[30.73j30.7630.80 


$44 130.83 [30.87 130.90| 30.94 [30.97 [31.01 31.04 | 31.08|31.11|31.16|31.18| 31.22|31.26|31.29|31.32| 31.36|31. 39|31.43|31.46[31.50 


$46[31.63 31. 67 131.60| 31.64(31.67 131.71|31.74| 31.78|31.81|31. 85 31.88 1 31.92131.95(31.99(32.021 32.06(32.09|32.13|32.16(32.20 


$46(32.23132.27 32.30| 32.34(32.37[32.41|32.44| 32.48 i32.51i32.6539.681 32.62|32.65 32.69 32. 72| 32.76(32.79(32.83 32. 86|32. 90 


$47 132.93 [32.97 [33.00| 33.04[33.07 [33.11 [33.14| 33.18,33.21 [33<26[33.28( 33.3233.35 33.39(33.42| 33.46;33.49(33.63;33.56i33.60 


$48 133.63 [33.67 [33.70| 33.74 (33.77 133.81|33.84| 33.88 [33.91 (33.95 [33.98 1 34.02[34.06[34.09 34.12| 34.1634.19 34.23 34.26134.30 


$49[34.33|34.37 134.40| 34.44 134.47[34.61|34.64|34.58[34.61|34.65[34.68|34.72[34.75|34.79[34.82| 34.85(34.8934.93(34. 96|35.00 


$60|36.03|36.07 [36.10! 36.14[35.17|36.21|35.24[ 35.28[35.31(35.35j36.38[ 36.42 135.45 (35.49(35.62 1 35.56(35. 5935. 63136.66136. 70 



BUGIPJIVIIVO. 



BUSINESS RECORD FOR WEEK 

lO BNDING_ 

RECEIPTS 



Month 


i8T. chair 


2ND. CHAIR 


3RD. CHAIR 


ATM. CHAIR 


6TH. CHAIR 


6TH. CHAIR 


MANICURE 
4 BATHS 


SUMC-BIES 
A CIGARS 


SHINES 


DAILY TOTALS 


Date 


Monday, 






















































































Tuesday, 






















































































Wednesday. 






















































































Thursday.^ 






















































































Friday, 






















































































Saturday, 






















































































Sunday, 




















































































Totals 














































































Salaries 





















































































The above tables are reduced reproductions from a book adaptable to barber shop bookkeeping, and 
not only provides for the weekly receipts but has a complete table of percentages that saves much figuring 
in paying off barbers who are paid on a salary and commission basis. 

This book may be ordered through the Moler Supply House, 512 N. State Street, Chicago, Illinois. 

The following article is taken from the Moler Manual of Beauty Culture 
and is given here for thei enlightenment of a barber who may desire to estab- 
lish a beauty parlor in connection with his barber shop. 

The advice given regarding the selection of a location is also adaptable 
to the selection of a barber shop, and it is worth careful consideration. 



Page tzvo hundred twenty-four 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



Establishing Business 



SELECTION OF LOCATION 

TT is suggested that one just 
graduating from a school of 
Beauty Culture or an apprentice- 
ship in a parlor, devotes some 
time to the work as an operator 
before establishing her own busi- 
ness, at least until a "following" 
or a number of customers are se- 
cured who prefer her services to 
that of others. 

There is likely to be a financial 
loss in a new shop at the start 
and this can be overcome by 
working as an operator a suffi- 
cient length of time to have ac- 
quired a follow-up. 

When one has decided to estab- 
lish business for themselves, the 
first and most important question 
is the location. It is not good 
business to expect to buy anoth- 
er's trade even when purchasing 
her shop, for the good will of a 
business can not be transferred. 
Some very good advice is of- 
fered on this subject by Wm. H. 
Connelly in Modern Beauty Shop 
as follows : 

Population an Important Factor 

What size and type of town will support 
a beauty shop? is a question for a prospec- 
tive shop owner to ask when considering 
locating in a small town. An analysis of 
several thousand shops and towns by Mod- 
ern Beauty Shop has led to the conclusion 
that rarely can a town of less than 5,000 
justify the time and money of a woman who 
has learned her trade well, and in the ma- 
jority of cases 5,000 is too small a population 
upon which to build a really profitable busi- 
ness. 

Under normal circumstances the town of 
15,000 or over is the safest venture for a 



new beauty shop. On the other hand, a very 
small place that is little more than a village 
may be a good location, provided it is con- 
tiguous to several other small to.vns or is a 
thoroughfare for much travel between towns. 
If there is much automobile travel through 
the town, a beauty shop can get a percentage 
of women who are tired and dusty from 
travel and welcome the opportunity to fresh- 
en up in the beauty shop. 

If a town is small, but a good trade cen- 
ter, that is another argument that may in- 
fluence the beauty shop to locate there. Suc- 
cess depends on the number of prospects 
that can be reached. If, for instance, a town 
is a thriving trade center, but the women 
who come into the town are not the type who 
patronize beauty shops, there is little encour- 
agement in such a town for the beauty shop. 
On the other hand, if there are a number of 
smart shops that cater to women, and much 
trade is attracted from the country round 
about, the beauty shop has a good chance. 

Amusements and Transportation 

Amusements may also be a factor in draw- 
ing customers to the beauty shop. Theaters, 
community centers, boarding schools, high 
schools and country clubs are centers that 
contribute to the beauty shop, and a town 
thus favored promises a good business lo- 
cation. 

Transportation is not as big a factor as it 
formerly was, because the automobile is in 
such universal use. However, it is advisable 
to select a location, either in the city or out 
of it, that has good transportation facilities. 

If the town is a small one and there is a 
good interurban system, the town's popula- 
tion may be virtually multiplied by several 
thousand. A railroad center will bring a 
certain amount of transient trade. If there 
is a good theater, and stock companies and 
other theatrical troupes come to the town, the 
women of such companies will increase 
beauty shop patronage. 

In the city, intersecting street car lines, 
elevated and bus service all have a bearing 
on the volume of business. 

Residence Neighborhood 

There is much to be said in favor of the 
residence location in the city. An exclusive 
suburban district, where people own their 
own homes or where there are high-priced 
apartments, will almost certainly offer a good 
location. Patronage will mostly come from 
high school girls, society girls and house- 



Pagc two hundred twenty-five 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




Beauty Parlor booth equipment. 



wives. These classes like to have their beauty 
work done near home in the majority of 
cases, as they usually go out in the evening 
and like to dress at their leisure. They can- 
not go down town in an evening dress and 
they do not like to go down town to get their 
hair done and return home to dress. 

So the neighborhood shop will get much 
of the neighborhood trade if equipped to 
give really high-class, competent service. 
Then, of course, Saturday afternoon will 
bring in a good many business girls who 
prefer to come home and get their beauty 
work done close at home, especially if they 
are going out in the evening. If there is 
much competition, however, in the neighbor- 
hood, it is not advisable to open a shop there, 
for the neighborhood shop has to depend ex- 
clusively on the patronage of the neighbor- 
hood — there are no contril iting areas as a 
rule that the neighborhood shop can tap. 

A business-like method of as- 
certaining the value of the neigh- 
borhood is to take a daily check 
of the passersby for a time. The 
number of pedestrians, however, 



cannot always be figured at the 
same ratio, for in some neighbor- 
hoods there would be more men 
than women and vice versa. 

There is frequently a good deal 
of debate in the mind of the shop 
owner as to whether a street lo- 
cation is not more advantageous 
than an upstairs shop. There is 
no denying that a shop located on 
the ground floor of the building 
has some advantages over the up- 
stairs shop, inasmuch as it at- 
tracts a certain amount of transit 
trade. However, ground floor 
locations and window displays 
are not so important in the beauty 
business as in one where a tan- 
gible product is sold. 



Page two hundred tzventy-six 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



EQUIPMENT 

Next in importance is equip- 
ment and it may be well said that 
a Beauty Operator is no better 
than her equipment, at least noth- 
ing is more helpful to the success 
of an establishment than equip- 
ment. 

One may become a first class 
operator, but without the sur- 
roundings and environments to 
carry out the higher class cff 
service that this profession de- 
mands, the learning of the work 
alone is largely a lost effort. 

After having become satisfied 
that the location warrants a first 
class establishment, ventilation, 
light, excess', window display, 
color scheme, wall decorations, 
floor covering and general ar- 
rangement is to be taken into con- 
sideration. 

Of the latter, a careful study 
is necessary that the greatest 
amount of work can be accom- 
plished with the least effort, the 
saving of a step from one depart- 
ment or booth to another, means 
a wonderful saving at the end of 
the year, and if €t number of 
steps can be saved in a single 
treatment, it means the reducing 
of overhead expenditures, just as 
other savings do. 

The day is passed when the 
operator of limited means can 
establish herself in competition 
to the larger establishments and 



obtain patronage, for the great 
public, zvho is the paymaster, de- 
mands the best, not only in real 
service, but in comfort and 
beauty of equipment. 

Many states have enacted laws 
governing Beauty Specialists and 
many of them have eliminated en~ 
tirely the home operator, who in 
her kitchen sink m'ay give the 
shampoo and in her parlor other 
treatments that do not loan them- 
selves to family surroundings. 

Beauty business is one that pays 
well and warrants bigger invest- 
ments and better surroundings 
than may have been considered 
necessary in the past, so it is ad- 
visable, if one is not financially 
able to start a well appointed par- 
lor, be it ever so small, to find 
employment in some of the bet- 
ter places and defer the proprie- 
torship until able to do the thing 
right. 

After the floor plan has been 
laid out, the most important fit- 
tings rs the workroom or booth, 
and it is highly essential that each 
operator be given an individual 
booth, one equipped with every- 
thing necessary for doing all the 
work so the customer need net be 
disturbed during the entire proc- 
ess of her treatment, no matter 
how much work she may need. 

The making of an individual 
Beauty Parlor of each booth is 
the only modern equipment , for 



Page tivo hundred twenty-seven 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




no matter how extravagant a 
place may be equipped, if it does 
not offer the comfort of individ- 
ual service, it is not modern. This 
means that hot and cold running 
water must be supplied to the 
shampoo faucets and lavatories 
of each booth and it is essential 
that it is so arranged that all 
pipes are hidden. 

This may be done by having 
them imbedded in the wall, but 
plumbing of that kind belongs to 
the building as soon as it is so in- 
stalled and for that reason, it is 
best to have a booth that consists 
of a backboard and partitions 



that will hide the pipes, enabling 
the owner of the equipment to 
remove it at the expiration of the 
lease, without losing the expen- 
sive plumbing. 

Such equipment can be had in 
sections, consisting of one or as 
many booths as desired, and ad- 
ditional booths to match, added 
as business may warrant. 

BOOTH 

In each booth should be the 
mirror, sterilizing cabinet, the 
small cabinet for supplies and 
materials, the soiled linen cabi- 
net, the clean linen cabinet, an 



Page two hundred twenty-eight 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




A shampoo lavatory. Requires 
no board. 



adequate workstand, shampoo 
lavatory and partitions so con- 
structed that they will permit of 
ample ventilation and light. Such 
equipment can be had all built 
in a single unit. 

The partitions should be so 
built that space is allowed be- 
tween the backboard and parti- 
tions enabling an operator to 
reach from one booth to another 
without going around. An open- 
ing of this kind also aids in bet- 
ter ventilation. 

In the matter of lavatories, 
they may be had shaped like a 
shampoo board and so built in the 
booth that they answer all pur- 
pose of shampoo without any 
other board. 

There are numerous shampoo 
faucets, but the most desirable is 
the type that enables the operator 
to temper the zvater with a single 
lever movement. This apparatus 
is known as a mixer and provides 



for the hose and spray attach- 
ment. This overcomes the an- 
noyance of working with first hot 
and then cold faucet to get the 
proper temperature. 

A very convenient arrange- 
ment for supplying liquid sham- 
poo to the scalp can be had, con- 
sisting of a small tank or con- 
tainer for the liquid, to which is 
attached a hose of sufficient 
length to carry the liquid from 
the tank to the scalp, the tank can 
be placed back of the backboard 
out of sight if desired. This 
saves the inconvenience of a 
pitcher or bottle or other con- 
tainer that is more or less waste- 
ful. 





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Shampoo container with hose 
and dispensor. 



Page two hundred twenty-nine 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



In addition to the water pipes 
and waste, there is also the elec- 
tric attachment and gas pipes to 
be hidden and they are concealed 
the same as the plumbing, in the 
space between the backoard and 
wall. 

A booth six by six interior is 
now adequate for all purposes, 
where only a short time ago it 
was considered necessary that a 
booth be at least seven by eight. 

In the arrangement of the 
booth, the lavatory should be in 
front of the operator not the cus- 
tomer and if placed one foot from 
the right hand corner of the 
booth, will give ample elbow 
room for the operator. 

Some fixtures are made with 
the lavatory installed midway be- 
tween partitions on the backboard 
or the wall, which brings it di- 
rectly in front of the customer 
and inconvenient for the opera- 
tor. Some use a sliding mirror 
and shelf that covers the lavatory 
when not in use, but this entails 
only more work and is not econ- 
omy in space, or sightly to the 
vision. 

CHAIR 

The chair is next in importance 
and it should be one that will 
raise and lower, revolve and re- 
cline and adapt itself to all pur- 
poses. A chair must raise to be 
convenient for shingling and 




A Four-In-One Beauty Pjrlor 
chair for every purpose. 



must lower to the proper height 
necessary for hairdressing and 
marceling. It must revolve in 
order to take advantage of the 
light and the position of the 
shampoo lavatory, and it must re- 
cline so that the customer may 
relax for a facial treatment, and 
should be without heavy or bulky 
upholstering that is hot and re- 
quires a depth in the back of the 
chair that renders it difficult for 
the operator in giving treatments 
or dressing the hair. 



Page two hundred thirty 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




Halliwell gas hairdryer. 



HAIR DRYER 



The hairdryer is important. 
The pedestal type is most de- 
sirable on account of the greater 
volume of heat and air and 
this is made in a number of 
types. Some with gas heat and 
electric fans, others with elec- 
tric heat and electric fans, and 
still others with colored light 
attachments that enables the giv- 



ing of a scientific scalp treatment 
with the drying of the hair, imi- 
tating to a great degree the ef- 
fects and benefits of sunlight 
drying, still with the saving of 
time which is a feature of the 
use of the other dryers. 

The hand dryer or smaller in- 
strument that is held in the hand 
while in use, is not desirable 
where time is a factor. 

The hand hairdryer has its 
place, however, as an emergency 
equipment, for use while drying 
water waves and for bobbed 
heads. The hand type can be at- 
tached to any electric light circuit 
and usually is made with the uni- 
versal motor for alternating or 
direct current. The standard 
type can only be used for the cur- 
rent for which it is built and 
must be ordered as desired, either 
alternating or direct. 




The Meyers sun-ray hair dryer. 

Page two hundred thirty-one 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



VIBRATOR 

All electric equipment plays as 
important a part in the Beauty 
Parlor as in the medical frater- 
nity and every parlor should be 
fully equipped with all instru- 
ments necessary for the treat- 
ment the trade may demand. 

The electric vibrator is made 
with pedestal base and the small- 
er type known as a hand machine. 
The pedestal base type is supplied 
with a motor on a pedestal to 
which is attached a flexible shaft, 
that revolves with the power of 
the motor and causes a vibrating 
stroke at the head or other end 
of the flexible shaft. In this head 
may be an attachment for a rub- 
ber cup or rubber scalp brush for 
facial and scalp treatments or it 
may be had with an attachment to 
fasten the hand to the flexible 
shaft head giving a vibration to 
the hand that is very beneficial 
and pleasing to the customer re- 
ceiving a vibratory treatment. 





Pedestal vibrator with hand at- 
tachments. 

3y courtesy of Shelton Electric Co. 



Vacuum irrigator on stand. 

The hydro-vacu or water mas- 
sage equipment can be had with 
or without the standard that sup- 
ports the tank and basin. In the 
better parlors the complete outfit 
is generally used. The hydro- 
vacu is one of the most used fa- 
cial instruments. 



Page tzvo hundred thirty-two 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




Penetrating Lights. 



RADIO BELL 

A radio beH or dermal lamp, as 
it is known hy the medical fra- 
ternity, gives off the different 
colored rays of light that is used 
in bleaching and facial treat- 
ments and should not be over- 
looked even if a full set of other 
electrical devices are had. 




H'gh Frequency or Violet 
a germ destroyer. 



Ray, 



HIGH FREQUENCY 

A high frequency equipment is 
necessary in the up-to-date 
Beauty Parlor, and it is made 
also with a pedestal and without. 




Moore hair cutting, hair dryer, 

vibrator and electric manicure 

machine. 

CLIPPERS 

An electric clipper is essential 
as it is a time saver and can be 
used for trimming the entire 
head or the neck only, but no 
shop should be without a hand 
clipper and no operator should 
attempt shingling unless they 
are adept with the hand machine 
for in the event of an accident to 
the electric clipper, your custo- 
mer will not be inconvenienced. 

Electric hair clippers are also 
made with an attachment for 
drying and with a number of 
small attachments fo v manicur- 
ing. 



Page tzvo hundred thirty-three 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




Metal manicure table. 



MANICURE TABLE 

It is quite customary for the 
manicure table to be placed in the 
reception room, but this is not 
good form. It should have its 



space in the woikroom and spe- 
cial care given to the lighting. A 
table with show case and steriliz- 
ing compartments underneath 
the top is an attractive fixture. 




Metal manicure chai 




Metal manicure stoo'. 



Page two hundred thirty- four 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 





Stand type Nestle Permanent 
Wave outfit. 



PERMANENT WAVE 

The permanent wave machine 
-;an be had with the portable 
stand so that it may be placed in 
any booth desired, or it can be 
made stationary swinging from 
the ceiling in chandelier form. 
This is the approved manner for 
as the machine must be attached 
co special wiring to carry the cur- 
rent, it is generally considered 
safer when made stationary. 



There are, however, other ad- 
vantages in the stand type as it 
enables one to place the machine 
in booth or out as desired. 

In purchasing the ceiling type, 
it is always necessary to specify 
the height of the ceiling. 

There is a special type made 
for a very low ceiling. 

In ordering always mention 
whether alternating or direct 
current is used. 




Nestle ceiling type Permanent 
Wave Machine. 



Page tzvo hundred thirty- fiv 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




Myers' face vaporizer. 




Wall plate electrical control. 

A wall plate has a greater 
scope of possibilities than the 
battery and is recommended for 
larger parlors. 



VAPORIZER 

An electric vaporizer for fa- 
cials and scalp treatments is also 
essential and the greater variety 
of devices of this kind the great- 
er number of patrons will be at- 
tracted and served in the modern 
Beauty Parlor. 

The vaporizer that supplies a 
warm vapor (not hot) to the 
face and scalp has a beneficial ef- 
fect that no other treatment 
gives. 




Soiled linen container with rust- 
proof metal liner. 



A self-closing soiled linen con- 
tainer is preferable to the open 
variety. They are made with 
rust proof liners and are finished 
in most any color desired to cor 
respond with equipment. 



Page two hundred thirty-six 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 








A modern reception room. 
By courtesy of American Hairdresser 




RECEPTION ROOM 

A show-case, tastily dressed, 
should be a part of the reception 
room or sales room equipment, 
and can be had with the full dis- 
play from floor to top or may be 
had with a compartment under- 
neath the show-case for the stor- 
age of merchandise that are not 
on display. 

The full show-case for display 
is more attractive and generally 
the show-case should be finished 
to match the decorations of the 
room in which it stands, also 



properly lighted to display the 
goods to the best advantage. 

A number of comfortable 
chairs and settees should be pro- 
vided for the reception room, also 
a table with literature pertaining 
to beauty business provided for 
the patron. 

Generally a reception room fin- 
ished in a color scheme entirely 
different, but harmonizing with 
the colors of the workroom, is 
most attractive, and if a display 
window can be had, it should be 
properly dressed with the display 
of merchandise without entirely 



Page two hundred thirty-seven 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 




A well stocked display room. 
By courtesy of American Hairdresser 



obscuring the view of the in- 
terior. 

There are service companies 
who periodically call and dress 
windows for the Beauty Parlor. 
In a prominent location this is a 
desirable service. 

Generally the Beauty Parlor 
supply houses have Moor plans 
and blue prints from which the 
layout of a Beauty Parlor can be 



made and it is general economy in 
the end to obtain a floor plan and 
blue print before installing the 
equipment. 

Deferred payments or buying 
on time is sometimes a risk and it 
is advisable to be cautious about 
over-buying, for the future is al- 
ways uncertain arid while in some 
instances it is advisable to take a 
chance, one must act cautiously. 



Page tzvo hundred thirty-eight 









THE BARBERS* MANUAL 



ADVERTISING 

There are service companies 
that will supply the established 
hair-dresser with printed matter, 
display cards, window dressing, 
general advertising in dailies, the 
addressing of form letters, week- 
ly or monthly to the mailing list 
or prospective customers in your 
neighborhood, and follow this 
with a specialty for each week 
or month providing the operator 
with all materials necessary to 
carry out the campaign as laid 
out in the service. 

It is well to become familiar 
with this service, as it makes for 
better business. 

If, however, one is handling 
their own advertising, it should 
be done consistently. An oc- 
casional ad in a daily or weekly 
is money poorly invested. 

Continued servitude is neces- 
sary regarding the up-keep and 
appearance of the shop. It is an 
art in itself to arrange draperies 
and keep the establishment al- 
ways looking well, and it is an ef- 



fort after a color scheme has been 
chosen to keep it harmonious as 
the different fittings and display 
materials that are bound to creep 
in from time to time frequently 
mar the harmony of the shop that 
might have been originally very 
pleasing. 

It is desirable to join some as- 
sociation of national repute and 
to subscribe for the better maga- 
zines to the trade. In order to be 
posted and keep pace with the 
ever changing conditions in the 
business, it is well to set aside pe- 
riods for attending the national 
association meetings or return to 
your school at intervals for a 
brush-up. 

The governing of help is 
something of a gift, but anyone 
can acquire it who will think and 
act fairly. Salaries are usually 
based on the earning capacities 
and it is well to encourage in the 
employees, a desire to command 
greater salaries by a larger stock 
in trade, the greater number cf 
individual customers. 



iWsslfccher 

_, Leon-Oil 
Permanent Waves 



E-xaari 




Showing what has been accomplished in beauty advertising. 
Page two hundred thirty-nine 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



DAILY STATEMENT 




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REMARKS 


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A practical leaflet for bookkeeping-. 



BOOKKEEPING 

In the conduct of a shop there 
is nothing more important than 
the system of bookkeeping that 
not only checks up on the mer- 
chandise, shop receipts, etc., but 
gives one in detail the profits and 
loss of each department. 

In keeping daily accounts, a 
sheet may be had that covers all 
items of work done and material 
sold, and provides for recording 
the day's expenditures. These 
may be audited daily or filed in a 
loose leaf ledger for the purpose. 
From these sheets one may read- 



ily check up on costs and regulate 
their business accordingly. 

There is also a very conveni- 
ent cashier slip itemizing the sev- 
eral amounts of work done in the 
establishment that keeps an accu- 
rate record of each operator's re- 
ceipts. One doesn't have to be 
trained in bookkeeping to keep an 
accurate accounting and it is well 
to be provided with stationery of 
this kind for your protection. 

An appointment book is essen- 
tial and books are made up for 
this purpose, providing space for 
the hour, the customer and the 
work desired. 



Page two hundred forty 






THE BARBERS' MANUAL 



MOLER SUPPLY HOUSE 

512 N. State St. 
CHICAGO 



OPERATOR | 9 A. M. | 10 A. M. | 11 A. M. | 12 N | 1 P. M. | 2 P. M. | 3 P. M. | 4 P. M. | 6 P. M. | 


Monday, OCTOBER 6, 1924 




















































































































Tuesday, OCTOBER 7, 1924 


























































































































Wednesday, OCTOBER 8, 1924 
















































































■ 











































Manufacturer! of Beauty Parlor Furniture and Requisites. 
Catalog mailed Free. 



A splendid appointment tabu- 
lator. 



M 



PAY CASHIER 



192. 



OPERATOR 




PRICE 




// 


Marcel Wave 


/ 


& 




Hair Dress 






/.r 


Shampoo 




7f 




Manicure 








Scalp Treatment 








Facials 






&£/3 


Hair Dye 


(o 


oo 




Eye Brows and Eye Lashes Dyed 








Eye Brows Arched 








Permanent Wave 








Water Wave 






££/,1 


Hair Cutting 


/ 


<o 




Side Pes. Cleaned 








Side Pes Waved 








Specials 






- 


Sales 


/ 


o 


1 DO NOT DESTROY CHECK 


fo X 7s 



(Actual size of slip 4^x6 inches.) 
A convenient customers' check. 



rage tzvo hundred forty-one 






THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

DEFINITIONS 

Accelerator A muscle that assists in the expulsion of urine. 

Acne A condition of pimples. 

Aorta The main arterial trunk. 

Astringent An agent producing contraction of organic tissue. 

Alopecia Loss of hair. 

Antiseptic Anything used to prevent disease germs. 

Anesthetic A substance producing anesthesia. 

Auricles One of the upper cavaties of the heart. 

Anidine Product of coal tar used in dyeing. 

Arrcctor Muscle ....Small muscle that contracts from fear or cold attached to each 
hair follicle. 

Adrenal Gland A gland of internal secretion. 

Anemia Lack of blood. 

Areola Tissue Connective tissue. 

Amylopsin Changing strach into maltose. 

Bacteria Microbe. 

Camomile Plant dried flowers. 

Corium Second layer of skin. 

Congenital Dating from birth. 

Canities Grey hair. 

Carbon A non-metal occuring in the form of charcoal. 

Catophorcsis Forcing medicines into the unbroken tissues. 

Contractility The property of contracting or shortening. 

Cauterization The application of a cautery. 

Cellular Composed of cells. 

Capillaries A minute blood vessel. 

Cordatympani A nerve that controls taste and sensation. 

Duo-denum The first part of the small intestines. 

Digastric Having two bellies. 

Decomposition Putrefaction. 

Disinfecting Freeing from contagious matter. 

Eczema Skin and scalp disease. 

Egyptian Henna Powder made from the leaves of a shrub. 

Electrolysis Removal of hair by electric needle. 

Epithelium Scarf skin. 

Epidermis First layer of skin. 

Ether Colorless volatile fluid used as an anesthetic. 

Esophagus Canal from the pharynx to the stomach. 

Enzyme A chemic or non-organized ferment formed within the body. 

Eulguration Point Instrument used in the removal of warts, etc., with Hy-Frequency. 

Follicle Pocket or depression containing root of hair. 

Filtration To filter or strain. 

Filaments A thread-like structure. 

Fumigation Exposure to disenfectant vapors. 

Gum Tragacanth Adhesive gum. 

Hypertrichosis Hairy condition of the body. 

Hyoglossus Muscle extending from tongue to hyoid bone. 

Hepatic Pertaining to the liver. 

Inhibitory Having the power to restrain. 

Linear Pertaining to a line. 

Lanula Crescent at base of nail. 

Lanugo Soft downy hair over entire body. 

Lozzars Paste Healing salve. 

Lipase Fat splitting. 

Page tivo hundred forty-two 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

DEFINITIONS— Continued 

Milia A disease of the sebaceous glands. 

Matrix Root of nail. 

Medulla Center layer of hair. 

Maltrose A sugar. 

Metalic Salts Pertaining to metal. 

Milohyoid Muscle pertaining to hyoid bone and molar bone. 

Nodules A small knob. 

Orris Root Dried roots of a species of iris. 

Onychia Inflammation of the nail bed. 

Onychomycosis A parasitic disease of the nails. 

Ozone A form of oxygen used as an antiseptic. 

Oxygen One of the gaseous elements. 

Oxidation Conversion into an oxide. 

Papilla The cell from which the growth of the hair takes place. 

Polarity The state of having poles. 

Protoplasm .The substance of the cells, excepting the nucleus. 

Peptone A proteid derived from any native proteid through the action of 

hydrolizing agents. 

Protein Albumin. 

Pancreatic Relating to the pancreas. 

Pharynx Sac behind the mouth. 

Pulmonary Pertaining to the lungs. 

Pericardium Membranous sac around the heart. 

Parotid Gland near the ear. 

Parasit" An organism that inhabits another organism and obtains nourish- 
ment from it. 

Pigment Coloring matter in the hair. 

Pityriasis A scaly skin disease. 

Psoriasis A chronic inflammatory skin disease. 

Pedicolosus Capites . . Head lice. 

Paronychia Disease of the nail. 

Platysima Superficial muscle of the neck. 

Papule Hardened spot in skin. 

Pathogenic Disease producing bacteria. 

Sinus . . A hollow cavity or pocket. 

Salk'ary Glands Pertaining to the saliva. 

Sedative Soothing. 

Sudoriferous Glands. . Sweat glands. 
Sebaceous Glands . . . Oil glands. 

Sebum Secretion from sebaceous glands. 

Skin Lesions Structural tissue changes, caused from disease or injury. 

Seborrhea Condition of dandruff. 

Syphilis .A serious infectious disease. 

Salicylic Acid A powdered antiseptic. 

Sterilization . . Destruction of germs. 

Tubercle A small nodule, the specific lesion of the Tubercl Bacillus. 

Toxin Poison formed by bacteria. 

Thyroid Gland A ductless gland in center of throat. 

Tanqential A line which when produced does not scar. 

Vena Cavae Hollow veins. 

Viscid ; Glutinous, ropy. 

Vater Name of German anatomist. 

Ventricles A small belly-like cavity. 

Wen .....A sebaceous cyst. 

Page two hundred forty-three 



306 90 



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